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Old 01-17-2010, 05:05 PM   #166
Duelsporter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66
Thanks! As far as the bars, it looks like in addition to adapters for the clamps, they would also be needed for the controls or brake master?
No, the standard wide 1" bars taper down to 7/8" at the end. The stock controls will fit any standard 7/8" bars.
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:31 PM   #167
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The tubing was just stuff I had in the basement; Maybe 1 or 1 1/4" tubing about a mm or 2 thick? Shims are necessary for the clamps and the lever perches. (Going from memory here...) Can't remember if I had to crop those plastic nubs that position things or not- but I usually do. I get my bars from BikeMaster for about $20. BikeMaster is carried by some in-house catalogues like Parts Unlimited. -or Tucker Rocky- I forget which.
Same for bullet turn signals. They usually run around 20-$30.
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:32 PM   #168
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Shims

You can get shims that work really well for the bars and the controls from bicycle shops. Quality Bicycle Parts makes a variety of shims; the ones that work for 7/8" - 1" are the BMX ones. They're ribbed aluminum and they grab and hold the bars and controls very well. QBP may call them "Problem Solvers" but I can't recall the exact term. The ones I used were to adapt a regular bicycle handlebar to a BMX stem.

Unless you run into a tech who understands what you need, you may have to look in their QBP catalog. Or you can look them up on line and get the part numbers, but Quality sells only to dealers, not you and I. But it's worth it to help out the good LBS's.

Second the Bikemaster bars. That's also what I did. They work really well.
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:56 PM   #169
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Thumb I agree on the bars

Bikemaster bars definitely are the way to go. I originally tried Royal Enfield bars, but they were too narrow for the control mounting. They sure looked good, though.


I'm really enjoying all the great response about what is in my opinion a greatly underestimated bike. I'll admit, I got mine mainly for the looks, but the way this bile works makes me wonder why I would ever want anything else. Just a very satisfying bike to ride!

Oh, somebody mentioned a place in Germany for accessories. I have gotten some stuff from Silverneck and had great results. (w650shop.de)

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Old 01-18-2010, 04:59 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duelsporter
I have seen pictures of W650's with both the rear brake housing and lower fork legs polished, but I have no experience with this myself. I've never had any issues with the carbs, but I live in an area where I can usually ride year-round. Even if it's too cold to ride, I try to crank it and at least run it around the neighborhood a few times every two weeks or so.

Here's a custom W650 Scrambler with the forks polished:

If I could buy a production version with lights and all, I'd sell everything else in the garage.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:44 PM   #171
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It certainly is a "looker." Sweet.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:27 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McJamie
If I could buy a production version with lights and all, I'd sell everything else in the garage.
Doesn't look like it would be hard to reproduce. Those pipes are available from www.w650shop.de, only the tank needs to be painted. Put a small tail light and headlight on it, and remove all that's not necessary. Aside from suspension and tires, what else is there? Shorting the fenders, removing airbox, etc. I think the hardest part would be getting up the nerve to start.

I started working on my new bike today, but nothing like that. Just bolt off stuff. Took off the tail light/turn signal mess and replaced it with a fabricated bracket and an old original Lucas tail light.

Removed the reflectors and the front turn signals. Found some smaller turn signals, similar in style to the originals, but 1 1/4" diameter as opposed to the stock 3", and I'll order those. Will move the rears to the reflector brackets. Hopefully that will keep the rear fender from cracking.

I found the specs on the stock export handlebars, 2.7" rise, 5.5" pull back.

The Bikemaster Euro bar at 2.4" and 4.8" is pretty close and I'm going to try that. Same place also has a nice vintage looking chrome horn, which at 113 db should be louder than the stock horn, and it's only $14.

Are there any problems on this bike related to changing the bars? Any hidden things I should know about? I thought I read somewhere about having to drill out something to do with the throttle inside the bars?

Any info about this would be greatly appreciated.

Has anybody removed the center stand? If so, what's involved with that? Best way to deal with the spring? The bike in the photo above certainly looks a lot cleaner without it.

I love the looks of the Canadian tanks, black with the red spears coming back and the gold pinstripes. Looks like they pretty closely copied a Triumph paint scheme in addition to everything else. Be great to find one of those. Anyone know of any that might be for sale?

Thanks

Steve

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Old 01-19-2010, 03:48 AM   #173
ORexpat
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Bars

The only thing with the bars, where people mention drilling holes, is that the throttle body and the clutch bracket have locating pins. When you use other than stock bars, you either have to drill a small hole in the bar for the locating pin, or grind off the pin. I decided to drill the bar; worked fine with no issues. There are no wires or cables routed throug the bars on the Dubya.

I installed bars with much less width and pull-back. So the clutch and throttle cables are much too long. Rather that hassle with getting shorter cables I just re-routed the originals. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:03 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66
I love the looks of the Canadian tanks, black with the red spears coming back and the gold pinstripes. Anyone know of any that might be for sale?
Thanks
Steve
Good luck. I've been keepiong my eye open for one for years. One came up on E-Bay some time back, and it went for big bucks (much more than I was willing to spend). It would be easier all the way around just to have yours painted.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:17 AM   #175
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Thanks for the info on the handlebars, just what I was looking for. Which bars do you have on your bike?

As far as the black & red tank, that's what I was afraid of, just too good looking.

Close copy of this paint scheme on an original old Triumph. Scroll down to #635 to see it. Rest of the scenery isn't bad either.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...400341&page=43
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:23 AM   #176
Duelsporter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66
Thanks for the info on the handlebars, just what I was looking for. Which bars do you have on your bike?
I still have the stock wide bars on mine. I don't mind 'em at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66
Close copy of this paint scheme on an original old Triumph. Scroll down to #635 to see it.
Somehow, I couldn't get past post #633!
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:36 AM   #177
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:07 PM   #178
Speedo66
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Nice photo, nice bike. There's a nice tank and a seat that would go perfectly with that bike for sale now on Ebay I'd love to go for.

Is there anything in the stock bar ends to prevent the use of bar end mirrors?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:56 AM   #179
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Speedo great find! 198 mi Wow,I thought mine with 2700 was the most
Cheeriest left...

Someone suggested not to do any mods,leave it stock.(hard to do)

Mine was completely unrideable stock,after 30 miles my butt was completely
numb and was getting a pain on top of my shoulder!
(your 2001 seat is a vast improvement over the 2000,the 2000 has a rib or
raised piece under the padding between the drivers and passengers area
of the seat,I`m 6`3`` and because of the hi bars (mini ape hangers) was
forced the ride farther back on the seat or directly on the rib that numbed
my arse!)
Immediately ordered a Corbin K/Q only one I knew was available for Ws.
This helped but the real fix was to go for lower bars! Wow what an improvement!
The forein manufacturers think the Americans love ape hangers so thats what
they send us.The OIF 71-79 Triumphs were proof of this.

Like I said lower bars a must! (easy cheap mod,save your stock bar for resale)
Another must is to move your rear turnsignals (get smaller LEDs) to your
licsence frame.Your rear fender is prone to crack below the stock ts location.
Another(I haven`t done yet) is to replace the front tire.The ribbed Bridgestone
is for the vintage look only,Avon,Metzler,etc. will dramatically improve handling
,especially on grates,bridges.

One more easy and essential "fix" is to block the vacum hose or manifold to
the exhaust port side of the head.This can be done with a bolt,ballbearing,or
plate.This eliminates the very annoying(to me) popping!!!

That said I`m hooked on Farkles and always looking to "improve" or add something new for my shiney TOY....


Again congrads on your new bike,you are going to love it!

JR...
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:10 AM   #180
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From Speedo,
""is there anything in the stock bars to prevent bar end mirrors""

No ,I gotem on mine. Love mine,they are Sterlings made in UK.Not cheap
(around $170. US) but very high quality,polished stainless.
Cheap barend mirrors look cheesy.
I put a stainless buttonhead allen bolt in oringinal holes.

JR...
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