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Old 07-22-2010, 07:04 PM   #376
GuinnesS
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Twin Rider, is there an accompanying Doc to the instructions?
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:11 PM   #377
hockeygoon
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Join the Yahoo Groups, they have a lot of good info there, including the baffle-ectomy. Under Files, probably "ExhaustModv1.doc" though I don't have Word and so have no way of looking at .doc files to be sure.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/W650riders/
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:03 AM   #378
twinrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuinnesS
Twin Rider, is there an accompanying Doc to the instructions?
Open the URL I posted and look in the upper lefthand corner. The link for the instructions is there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GuinnesS
Thanks for that. Btw, why are you selling the pipes, have you since sold the bike?
No, I've still got the bike. It actually came with a Daiwa aftermarket exhaust. At first I thought it was too loud and bought the quieter Beet system with the idea of swapping it. But after finding scratches on the Daiwa that'll make it harder to sell for a decent price, I decided to sell the pristine Beet instead and invest in some earplugs.

Already posted but in case you missed it, here's a vid I made of the Daiwas at idle
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:37 AM   #379
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There's a wealth of information and experience to be found in the Yahoo Group noted below.

I've been subscribed for the last year or so, and one of the consitent threads is that the power from the W motor is close to optimum. Judicious tuning with the air screw, perhaps some freer-flowing pipes, have resulted in better all-around power. But much more that (airbox-ectomy, puck air filters, drastic jet changes, drag pipes, etc.) appear to drop the power, or concentrate it a higher revs. The guys that are posting on this issue claim to have dyno'ed their bikes.

My take-away, if they're correct--the stock set-up is probably within 10% of maximum useful power--4 or so HP--for a long-stroke parallel twin. Tweaking will get you the rest. After that--you may gain looks, but may well lose power, reliability, and ride-ability.

As always, only one non-expert opinion, and just like rear ends, we've all got 'em. YMMV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeygoon
Join the Yahoo Groups, they have a lot of good info there, including the baffle-ectomy. Under Files, probably "ExhaustModv1.doc" though I don't have Word and so have no way of looking at .doc files to be sure.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/W650riders/
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:06 PM   #380
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Yikes! Crack at weld site in Five Star rack

Yowza! Was just doing my normal tire pressure check and spotted this crack on the left side of the Five Stars rack which I bought from TwistedThrottle.com late last year (but only really used this year since the bike was parked basically all winter).



What do you guys think? Bad weld? I often have a Givi top case on the rack but never overloaded. At most it carries a spare helmet or a change of clothes for an overnighter.

Will be contacting TT to see what they say.

The Jerk screwed with this post 10-15-2011 at 03:59 PM
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:07 PM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jerk
Yowza! Was just doing my normal tire pressure check and spotted this crack on the left side of the Five Stars rack which I bought from TwistedThrottle.com late last year (but only really used this year since the bike was parked basically all winter).



What do you guys think? Bad weld? I often have a Givi top case on the rack but never overloaded. At most it carries a spare helmet or a change of clothes for an overnighter.

Will be contacting TT to see what they say.
That sucks! For the price of those racks they should last indefinitely.

The crack doesn't appear to be in the weld, but rather the tube itself. But hard to say for sure from the photo.

Good luck with TT.
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:00 PM   #382
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Finally got off my lazy ass and installed a lower, narrower set of handle bars last night.

Used the "euro" bend bar, very similar in spec to the factory low bar, but only $22. Got them here: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Handlebar.aspx

Took my time and it went very smoothly. I had gotten steel ridged spacers from a bicycle shop to make up the difference for the 7/8" bar conversion, but they were very wide and I wound up cutting them in half with a Dremel cutting wheel. A little too long also, so a couple of swipes on a grinding wheel did the trick.

Removed everything off the the old bar, ground down the tabs on the controls that fit into holes on the old bar. I had read that forcing compressed air into a grip would loosen it, and tried it. Worked like a charm, I was shocked (and thankful) that the grip came off so easily.

I wanted the bars a little narrower, so having the Dremel handy, I went through several thin cutting wheels, and cut an inch off each side. No drama, very easy operation.

From the time I started cutting the spacers in half to the tightening of the last screw was just about exactly 2 hours, but I was in no rush.

Took it out today and what a difference. Slight lean forward, but not too much pressure on the hands even at low speed. Much narrower, much nicer. Highway at over 90 showed no sail effect, and the seat is more comfortable because I'm not trying to sit on the rise in the seat now.

One downside: new mirrors will be required, can't see jack past my elbows. Not sure if I'll go for the same style with longer stems, or bar ends.

Easy to do, low cost, highly recommended.
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:11 PM   #383
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Well- let's see if I shopuld start a new thread or not;

F R O N T B R A K E question;

I replace the pads and some totally wilted thing fell out and Ewarl said, "Don't worry. You don't need that." For the first week- he was right.

Now my front brake is moaning and groaning. I lost some spring steel doo dad that deadens vibration. Got new parts. BUT- Ron Ayers nor the manual indicats how this thing fits in. The Yahoo site just said it snaps on there.

Oy

Can anyone be more descriptive?
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:46 AM   #384
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From yesterday's ride

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Old 08-01-2010, 10:49 AM   #385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ernie
Well- let's see if I shopuld start a new thread or not;

F R O N T B R A K E question;

I replace the pads and some totally wilted thing fell out and Ewarl said, "Don't worry. You don't need that." For the first week- he was right.

Now my front brake is moaning and groaning. I lost some spring steel doo dad that deadens vibration. Got new parts. BUT- Ron Ayers nor the manual indicats how this thing fits in. The Yahoo site just said it snaps on there.

Oy

Can anyone be more descriptive?
There's usually a couple kinds and not having taken my front brake apart yet I'm not sure what the W has. One kind is a thin metal doodad that snaps onto the brake pad itself between the backing plate and the caliper piston.

The other kind is a little spring-steel clip that goes into the back side of the caliper and is held in place by the pins that hold the brake pads in place.
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:38 PM   #386
ORexpat
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Front brake spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jerk
There's usually a couple kinds and not having taken my front brake apart yet I'm not sure what the W has. One kind is a thin metal doodad that snaps onto the brake pad itself between the backing plate and the caliper piston.

The other kind is a little spring-steel clip that goes into the back side of the caliper and is held in place by the pins that hold the brake pads in place.
Uncle Ernie, thought I'd try to be helpful . . . . lets see if it does help. Took the caliper off my W, took the pads off, and here's a couple of photos. This anti-vibration spring is the type that goes into the backside of the caliper. One side goes under the pistons (but won't touch them). The small photo on page 10-9 of the service manual shows the location, but as you note, doesn't provide any info other than "install."



This is a little closer, but a bit out of focus.



Hope these photos help.
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:33 AM   #387
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I'm going to install some EBC HH pads in the front brake. Is there any more to it on this bike than removing the 2 chrome bolts holding the caliper on and removing and replacing the pads? Any additional steps necessary? I don't have the shop manual for this bike.

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:55 AM   #388
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That's basically it. I take the 8mm brake line bolt off just to give me more slack to turn the caliper over.

Remove the two silver 12mm bolts and pull the caliper. Before you take the pads out, use a tire iron or a big screwdriver to pry the pads apart--that pushes the pistons back into the caliper and creates the room you'll need to put the caliper back over the rotor once you've put new, thicker brake pads on.

When you're looking at the caliper upside down, you'll see a pin that holds one end of the pads. (It goes through the holes at the bottom of my photos). All that holds the pin in place is a tiny spring clip. Pull that with small needlenose pliers, then slide the pin out. The long pad can be rotated up and slid off the fixed pin on the other end. The inner pad can just be taken out. If you're careful when you take it apart, getting it back together will be really easy. It took me less than 5 minutes to take my caliper and pads off, take the photo above, and put it all back together--and I'm about the farthest thing from a mechanic that you'll find!
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:42 PM   #389
Speedo66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORexpat
That's basically it. I take the 8mm brake line bolt off just to give me more slack to turn the caliper over.

Remove the two silver 12mm bolts and pull the caliper. Before you take the pads out, use a tire iron or a big screwdriver to pry the pads apart--that pushes the pistons back into the caliper and creates the room you'll need to put the caliper back over the rotor once you've put new, thicker brake pads on.

When you're looking at the caliper upside down, you'll see a pin that holds one end of the pads. (It goes through the holes at the bottom of my photos). All that holds the pin in place is a tiny spring clip. Pull that with small needlenose pliers, then slide the pin out. The long pad can be rotated up and slid off the fixed pin on the other end. The inner pad can just be taken out. If you're careful when you take it apart, getting it back together will be really easy. It took me less than 5 minutes to take my caliper and pads off, take the photo above, and put it all back together--and I'm about the farthest thing from a mechanic that you'll find!
Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow morning.

Any recommendations on breaking in new pads?

I've seen everything from babying them when new, to doing repeated panic stops in the hopes of getting them hot and tranferring the new material onto the rotor.

Somewhere in between may lie the correct answer.
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:52 PM   #390
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I jus' ride the bike.

It may take 3 fingers to panic-stop for a while, instead of two.

'Bout the only thing I worry about is new tires. I do take it easy on fresh rubber for a hundred miles or so. Less if I ride 'em in the dirt.
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