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Old 07-14-2011, 06:15 AM   #706
The Jerk OP
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Originally Posted by acap650 View Post
I also have the Five Stars racks and have run 16K miles with no problems, but using the light Givi cruiser bags. Perhaps the quality has gone south. If you got the racks from Twisted I would contact them for a credit and hope they should stop selling these defective racks.

Good luck and keep us posted.
I should be clear I'm speaking about the Five Stars top rack only. I don't have any experience with the side racks. I think that the way it's designed, it's not strong enough. Any top case fitted is hanging way out there over the rear of the bike and has a lot of leverage on the rack tubes. Most of my riding was done with an empty top case and it still cracked after only a few months.

I contacted TwistedThrottle about it the first time and they passed my warranty request onto Five Stars who denied it saying that the problem was due to overloading and vibrations. TT did what they could and sold me a new one at cost but that did the same thing. So I've begun to understand that "overloading" in Five Stars' parlance means "loading it at all."

So we'll see if Hepco & Becker is better.
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:56 PM   #707
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I tried pricing the part numbers to do this to my bike but these covers are not imported to Australia.
Is there a Kawa parts supplier that will ship to Australia?

Is there any performance gain in doing this?
Should I do the marble trick?
What happens if the air valve things fail on the highway?
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Old 07-14-2011, 08:15 PM   #708
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Originally Posted by WikdBeemer View Post


I tried pricing the part numbers to do this to my bike but these covers are not imported to Australia.
Is there a Kawa parts supplier that will ship to Australia?

Is there any performance gain in doing this?
Should I do the marble trick?
What happens if the air valve things fail on the highway?
I found a shop in the Netherlands that ships to various countries (USA included) so I ordered from there. cmsnl.com

I was able to order all the bits using the part numbers. Haven't got them yet but will advise when I do.

No performance gain, the air injection just adds air to the exhaust to burn any unburnt fuel that gets past the exhaust valve. Blocking the system off will increase your emissions of unburned hydrocarbons and stop the popping through the exhaust on deceleration. And maybe keep your headers from turning blue as fast. The marble trick is good to block the system up.

I don't think anything would really happen if the air valve fails. Might create a vacuum leak if the diaphragm ruptured I suppose. Never heard of one failing.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:27 PM   #709
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Rear Fender Replacement

Given the well-known first-year W650 tendency to crack rear fenders and given that my W still had the original rear fender, it came as no surprise to find that my rear fender had started to crack:



It was like this, both sides. So I ordered up a new rear fender (Kawasaki p/n 35022-0025) and set about installing it today. The manual made it look pretty easy but it was slightly more involved than I was led to believe. Here's how it's done. This is how I would do it if I had to do it again, regardless of how the service manual says I should do it.

First, if you have the Five Stars luggage rack, remove it, piss on it and throw it in the garbage. This is the second one I've been through in a year that did this:





Currently awaiting Hepco & Becker rear rack.

ANYWAY, on to the fender. First, take off the seat. Then remove the two nuts that hold the little plastic u-lock tray. Then pull the tray out.



Now remove the two lower mounting bolts, just forward of the rear wheel. They are 10mm heads and it helps to have a swivel extension for this.



Now, the service manual tells you to unplug the rear harness connector and remove the seat lock mechanism, but you don't need to do any of that.

What you need to do is go underneath the fender and pry up all the clamps that hold the wiring harness in place, then pull the harness out of the clamps.

Then undo the three bolts (accessible from under the fender) that hold the taillight housing in place. There are two at the bottom and one at the top.





Flip the taillight housing over and pry up the little tab underneath it where you see a black plastic sleeve around the wiring harness. Pull the harness out from under the tab and slide the sleeve up to find a whole bunch of bullet connectors for all the rear electrical connections.



Unplug all the bullet connectors. All the colors match except for one of the turn signals, so just make a note of any different color connections and then pull them all apart. You have to do it this way because the harness plug on the other end won't fit through the holes in the fender that the harness goes through.

Unplug the bullet connecters, push the harness (and the grommet) back through the fender, then pull the harness (and the other grommet) out through the top hole in the fender in the under-seat area.

Now you are left with the three "dampers" as they are called in the service manual. Basically grommets through the fender with metal inserts for the bolts to go through to secure the taillight housing. First push out the metal inserts from the grommets (the two lower ones are identical but the top one is different), then push the grommets out.

Now you should have a bare fender which is ready for removal from the bike. Go up top and remove the four top mounting bolts:



Then remove the fender to the rear.

The bike looks kinda badass without the rear fender



For installation, first hang the bare fender to the bike with a couple of the top mounting bolts. Then install the "damper" grommets and inserts to the fender. Thread the wiring harness through the top hole and then out the rear hole.



Re-connect all your bullet connectors for the rear harness (if you took that plastic sleeve off, don't forget to put it back on before connecting everything), then seat the rear grommet for the wiring harness and mount the taillight assembly.

Install all four top mounting bolts for the fender and snug them up just to get the fender in position. Then install the two lower mounting bolts and tighten them up.

Place the wiring harness into the little clamps under the fender and then press them down. Seat the other wiring harness grommet.

Tighten down the four mounting bolts, then mount the plastic u-lock tray and install the nuts.

Go over everything and make sure you remembered to tighten everything down. That's pretty much all there is to it.
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:22 PM   #710
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Nice photos and tutorial, thanks!
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:38 AM   #711
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"First, if you have the Five Stars luggage rack, remove it, piss on it and throw it in the garbage."


THERE GOES THE COFFEE!!!
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:49 AM   #712
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Nice job, great photos and instructions.

I removed the tail light, turn signals, and the mounting bracket and replaced the tail light/license bracket with a light aluminum vintage Triumph look one. I replaced the large turn signals with a smaller set and mounted them in the frame holes for the rear reflectors, which I removed.

I'm hoping due to removing so much weight from the fender I won't be replacing it, but it's nice to know how to do it just the same.

Thanks!!
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:25 PM   #713
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I thought I read somewhere that there are thinner kneepads available.
Anyone know if this is true?
Part numbers?
Supplier?
My local Kawasaki dealer could not find anything on the computer except the standard ones.
With my long legs the standard ones just get in the way and make riding a little uncomfortable.

Looked into replacing them with black plastic adhesive but the screw mount protrudes too much.
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:17 PM   #714
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Originally Posted by WikdBeemer View Post
I thought I read somewhere that there are thinner kneepads available.
Anyone know if this is true?
Part numbers?
Supplier?
My local Kawasaki dealer could not find anything on the computer except the standard ones.
With my long legs the standard ones just get in the way and make riding a little uncomfortable.

Looked into replacing them with black plastic adhesive but the screw mount protrudes too much.
I do not know what year your W is. Here in the states the '00 model had knee pads that were significantly wider, with more pronounced edges than the '01 knee pads. I put the '01 pads on my '00 and it was a great imporvement.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:06 PM   #715
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Originally Posted by jmlmjmjm View Post
I do not know what year your W is. Here in the states the '00 model had knee pads that were significantly wider, with more pronounced edges than the '01 knee pads. I put the '01 pads on my '00 and it was a great imporvement.
Thanks, I have the '00 model so I will do the same.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:21 PM   #716
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So the Hepco & Becker rack that I ordered from amotostuff finally arrived today (it is a special order item with a 4 to 6 week lead time, accounting for the delay).

This is one of three racks that H&B offers for the W650 and W800. The one I got, H&B part number 650.284 01 02, is the full-size rear rack which can mount any H&B top case. H&B also offers a mini rear rack which mounts their line of mini top cases and they offer a complete rack system which includes the rear rack and side racks.

Here's what their rack looks like outside the packaging:



Just on initial impression it seems to be more robustly built than the Five Stars rack, with thicker tubing. Also, instead of having one piece of tube bent twice and cantilevered out over the rear fender like the Five Stars rack, the H&B has thick main tubing which forms the "spine" of the rack, with the rack itself being constructed of thinner tubing and welded to the spine. Then there is a support "bridge" (literally Brücke in the instructions) that ties the vertical part of the spine to the horizontal part. Looks pretty tough.

I think I have a handle on the instructions thanks to Google Translate and a little fiddling. The only thing I'm not real clear on is where the spacers go but it should be pretty obvious once I get started on the installation. Here are the instructions:



Anybody speak good German? Here's what Google Translate came up with:

----------------------------------------

Luggage Rack

Kawasaki W 650 / W 800

Item number: 650 284 01 02 chrome

The kit includes the following components:
1 Luggage Rack
2 screws M8 x 50
2 washers 8.4
2 Aludistanzen 18 x 9 x 25mm
2 shims with thread M8 L / R

Installation instructions:
The rear turn signals remain in their original position.

The front of the mounting rack carried on the upper strut mounts. The original U-sections remain mounted as a spacer. For mounting use the original mother.

The rear mounting of the bridge are identical to the existing holes in the plate on the frame behind the grab handles. To fix the support to be at this point, it must also be mounted behind a support plate with M8 thread. Removing the seat and insert Support plates to the right and left. The support plate must be installed so that the threaded insert inside the fender shows (Figure). For fastening the bridge using the Allen screws M8 x 50 with washers. Between one frame and add bridge between Aludistanz 18x9x25mm as spacers.

After assembly, check all bolts are tight! Please see our service information attached.

-------------------------------------------------

It made more sense once I realized that Google was trying to call the "support plates" (Unterlegplatten) "washers" (U-Scheiben) in a couple places. Using the synonyms feature of Google Translate straightened that out and it kinda makes sense now.

I will write up a nice set of English instructions with photos when I get this thing installed.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:07 AM   #717
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Looks nice...

On another note, has anyone here switched to 120/90-18 in the back? Any comments? I'm planning on keeping my stock suspension for as long as possible, some peeps on the yahoo board swear by this tire size "mod". They say it improves turn-in (which I have no issues with) but also the "sail" feeling at highway speeds (which I do have issues with) by loading up the front a bit more.
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Old 08-03-2011, 04:13 AM   #718
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My front brake jammed on today.
Pulled over safely and fiddled a bit with the lever and heard a slight swish sound when the fluid came back up I think and then it felt good again.
rode all the way home, 75Km with no problem & thought "what was that all about?"
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:18 AM   #719
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Might be time to rebuild your caliper or the master cylinder. Sounds like something in one of those two prevented the piston from retracting.

Haven't re-built these. Did a simple rebuild job once on a TT225. That one was easy; this is a single disc, so single line and caliper. Wouldn't think it would be too hard.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:48 PM   #720
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Looks nice...

On another note, has anyone here switched to 120/90-18 in the back? Any comments? I'm planning on keeping my stock suspension for as long as possible, some peeps on the yahoo board swear by this tire size "mod". They say it improves turn-in (which I have no issues with) but also the "sail" feeling at highway speeds (which I do have issues with) by loading up the front a bit more.
After some searching, saw page 17 of this thread. Seems like both stock and 120/90 users out there.
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