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Old 12-05-2011, 06:02 AM   #796
ORexpat
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I was almost shocked on my first corner after moving the forks. The Dub dropped in as well or better than the GS . . . .

Body position is probably better too; leaning forward, some weight over the front, butt on the side of the saddle, shoulder well over.

Speedo, I know what you mean . . . first corner out of the 'hood, and gently "weaving" to get used to the Dub after other bikes. Wanted to go straight, had to "adjust" for the nature of the Dub.

That feels different with the forks dropped. Not scary different, and it's still the same bike. Just turns in noticeably better.

Over in the Yahoo Group "Jon" has discussed using a higher profile rear tire and says that also improves handling. That and dropping the forks should have similar effects.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:50 AM   #797
makeitwork
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Hey Dan- glad you like the seat. And I'm glad I stumbled across this.

I dropped my W with new shorter springs and matched the front end. Also progressive springs in the front. Now I'm wondering if I should slide the front end down a little more and see if it will give me the same result you've found.

Haven't messed w/ air screws yet but that might happen this winter. I actually ordered the parts to remove the vacuum stuff from the cyl heads (the blockout kit)- runs great, looks great, no backfires.

Now it's time to plan for a full electric rewire/battery relocate/headlight revamp... don't tell my wife.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ORexpat View Post
Well . . . .

Just made two more mods to the Dub and took it for a little afternoon spin. Not quite sure of the exact "cause," but I'm certain of the "effect." Handling feels really good now!

First mod--simple; put on a Corbin Gunfighter seat that I just bought used from an inmate on the Yahoo group. (Thanks, Reid)! Corbin's by design are very firm--hard, even. The seat is easy to move around on (maybe too easy), and easy to slide a cheek off in a corner. The firm seat is also a complete tactile change of the "butt/motorsickle interface." Previously in bumpy corners, the Dub felt like it had a hinge in the middle--though much better if I put a knee firmly against the tank. I'm suspecting much of what I felt was the squishy stock seat when the bike moved underneath me.

Second mod--dropped the triple tree on the forks. The top of the fork tube is now about 8mm above the top triple tree. Such a small amount, yet the bike turns in much, much better. Actually wants to go around corners now. Between this and an easier "hang slightly off" it almost feels like a different motorcycle.

All suspension mods:
Hagon rear shocks. Had 20kg, returned for 18kg. Might even be ok with 16kg.

Race Tech front springs and gold valve emulators. Very little preload. Spring weight is what they sent me, stock emulator springs but compression dampening all the way out--as light as possible.

Superbrace fork brace

Dropped front end 8mm.

Other mods:
Corbin seat
Low bars (el-cheapos, and they work fine)
long mirrors
Air screws @3 1/4 turns out
Vacuum blocked.


With all that, today was the best the Dub has ever felt.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:22 AM   #798
ORexpat
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Thumb Gunfighter

You're welcome. I like the seat, and a bit of leather dressing worked well. Yesterday was the first chance I've had to ride the Dub in a week.

Playing around with the fork height in the triple tree is easy, and easy to reverse. Though I did have to figure out how to take all the weight off the front end to get both fork legs even!

I didn't think the difference would be that noticable, but it was, at least in combination with the other stuff I've done.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:00 AM   #799
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ORexpat,
Do you have a photo to post regarding your "Low bars (el-cheapos, and they work fine)" ? Exactly which bars are they and where did you get them? Like to see how you routed your control cables.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:14 AM   #800
ORexpat
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I don't have a good photo of the bars--but I can fix that this evening!

I did not buy shorter cables. I re-routed the stock cables from the higher bars and they work fine for me--but you might not like the results.

The clutch cable ended up over the top of the ignition key. Kinda in the way, but works for me. Throttle cables--had to turn the throttle tube 90 degrees towards the rider to get a clear run. Works great, but now the little red "start me now" button is on the underside of the throttle . . . a bit weird, but not really a problem.

The bars cost me maybe $20.00 from my local dealer, and I splurged on real store-bought shims from a bicycle shop. They're perfect--just the right size and ribbed so they add a bit more friction. The shims were maybe $5.00 or so. Since cheap-bastard me didn't buy new cables, the whole set-up didn't cost over $25.00 to maybe $30.00.

I did have to add longer mirrors so I could see past my elbows . . . . .

I'll try to remember to take and post photos tonight.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:11 PM   #801
ORexpat
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Cable routing photos

Here it is, dramatic evidence that I'm not much of a mechanic and bike-fixer-upper! Cable routing works well, nothing binds, but as you can see that using the standard length cables entails some aesthetic compromises . . . .









Gratuitous Dubya photo from a recent NOVA tag plant . . . .

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Old 12-16-2011, 07:16 PM   #802
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ORexpat,
Thanks for the photos.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:19 PM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnone View Post
ORexpat,
Do you have a photo to post regarding your "Low bars (el-cheapos, and they work fine)" ? Exactly which bars are they and where did you get them? Like to see how you routed your control cables.
I got the Emgo Euro handlebars from Motorcycle Superstore for $24.

They had the closest specs to the Kaw low bar replacement kit bars for the W. A little wide, I cut an inch off each side with a Dremel, I think they're much better than the original. No change in cables, etc.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:29 AM   #804
Barnone
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Speedo66,
Thanks and a photo would be nice. I'm thinking that wider bars would make the cable routing a little more attractive.
These are the bars?
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...andlebars.aspx
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2014 Sky Team ST125-8A Z50 clone monkey bike
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:59 AM   #805
Speedo66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnone View Post
Speedo66,
Thanks and a photo would be nice. I'm thinking that wider bars would make the cable routing a little more attractive.
These are the bars?
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...andlebars.aspx
Those are the ones. You know about the disparity in diameter, yes? You need some spacers/shims to make up the difference between the stock 1" diameter and the 7/8" of the replacements. As recommended by someone here, I got mine at a bicycle shop.

The difference in height changed the riding position from sitting straight up to a slight lean forward, much more comfortable as far as I'm concerned.

I'm out of town at the moment, won't be home till the end of the week.

I can't post photos online, but if you want to PM me with your email address, I'd be glad to send you some photos when I return.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:47 AM   #806
ORexpat
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Throttle cable routing: see my photo above. The comment about the angle of the bars is right on. The stock cable guides for the high bars are right-angled. It's that sharp right angle that forced me to rotate the throttle tube to the point of having the cable guides on top. A different throttle tube and guides would fix that. I don't know what the Kawasaki OEM low bars and cables look like, but I'd be surprised if those guides weren't different.

Lower bars with more bend/pull back to them would probably work better with the stock high-bar cables, but, like Speedo66, I really like the position my new bars put me. Much more comfortable.

As for spacers/shims, you can see how mine work in the photos above.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:12 AM   #807
acap650
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Low bar cables

Here are the factory low bars and cables and how they are routed:



Throttle cables are shorter and take same path as originals.



Clutch cable is shorter and has tube which angles directly to cable guide.



All cables are routed around left side of steering head.



Before I got the factory bars and cables (and mirrors) I had 7/8" low bars with spacers and original long cables routed like ORexpat but with throttle near original position and cables around front of mirrors and gauges. It worked perfectly except for the clutch cable blocking the key. Too bad Kawa did not offer this kit in the US. I got mine from a Yahoo W650 Riders member who ordered it from the UK I believe.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:27 AM   #808
Barnone
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acap650,
Nice photos and explanation about the factory low bars and cables.
What are the width measurement of the factory low handlebars?
Thanks,
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2014 Sky Team ST125-8A Z50 clone monkey bike
2014 Ice Bear PBZ110-1P Z50 clone monkey sidecar
2014 Sky Team MC-D34 CT70 clone
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:30 PM   #809
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The OEM Low Bar kit that I purchased from Z-Power oh so many years ago is still listed on its website:

https://www.z-power.co.uk/merchantma...roducts_id=496

May be worth an e-mail if you want OEM fit and parts.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:07 AM   #810
acap650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnone View Post
acap650,
Nice photos and explanation about the factory low bars and cables.
What are the width measurement of the factory low handlebars?
Thanks,
Bars are 28 in. wide.
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