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Old 04-08-2012, 07:08 PM   #931
ORexpat
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A little vibration is normal. It's a vertical twin, 360 crank. But unlike the old Brit bikes it has a counterbalancer. So, a little vibration is normal, a lot is not.

Valves out of adjustment, carbs out of synch, and/or loose motormounts could cause a bit of vibes. Once those are sorted, just enjoy the bike.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:17 AM   #932
Speedo66
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I find lower speeds like 50MPH have the most vibrations. Bump it up to 70 and most of it tends to lessen or disappear.

You just need to crank that throttle.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:01 AM   #933
zap2504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider929 View Post
I am toying with the idea of converting it to a scrambler. I bought a set of Hagons 10mm over stock length that work great. Now i need to shorten up the fenders a little. I also found a mesh rock guard for the head light. I found the bars on one of the Triumph sites. They feel great without being too tall.
Like this http://www.bikeexif.com/w650?
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:31 PM   #934
Speedo66
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Here's one for sale on CL with a hack, price isn't bad, usual disclaimer, it's not mine. http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/mcy/2951911936.html
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:58 PM   #935
WikdBeemer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
I find lower speeds like 50MPH have the most vibrations. Bump it up to 70 and most of it tends to lessen or disappear.

You just need to crank that throttle.
Its actually designed to vibrate a bit, they wanted old school feel when they designed it.
Harleys are designed that way too.
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:57 PM   #936
Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
I find lower speeds like 50MPH have the most vibrations. Bump it up to 70 and most of it tends to lessen or disappear.

You just need to crank that throttle.
W's are a bit sensitive to chain vibration due to the extreme size of the chain. It is a 525 I believe. Thats what is on the Suzuki Hybu. It is overkill. On the plus side if it is kept clean and lubed it will remain in adjustment almost forever. Keep her lubed and properly adjusted and most of what many feel as vibration will disappear.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:56 PM   #937
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The chain adjustment is in the 1 inch to 1.5 inch range. At 1 inch it is extremely smooth with all but imperseptible snatch.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:05 PM   #938
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The big 525 will not need readjustment many times for thousands of miles after initial wear in. Say a two or three thousand miles. I use chain lube sparingly just to keep the rust away. My riding is a combination of in town and 70 mph Interstate. I treat the drivetrain fairly gently and have been known to not need a chain adjustment for the life of the rear tire which for me is about 6 to 7 k miles.

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Old 04-26-2012, 12:24 PM   #939
DaBinChe
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Hagon Shocks

Hagon Shock question:
So for you lighter weight guys what spring rate are you using? Let me know your riding weight and spring rate. Thanks!

My riding (geared up w/helmet, boots, leathers etc.) weight is ~150# and DaveQuinnMC suggest for me their 16kg springs for 80% solo riding.

With the stock shocks I'm at the softest preload setting.

Also I'm gonna put on some RaceTech front gold emulators and springs w/ .80kg/mm rate
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:32 PM   #940
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Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
Hagon Shock question:
So for you lighter weight guys what spring rate are you using? Let me know your riding weight and spring rate. Thanks!

My riding (geared up w/helmet, boots, leathers etc.) weight is ~150# and DaveQuinnMC suggest for me their 16kg springs for 80% solo riding.

With the stock shocks I'm at the softest preload setting.

Also I'm gonna put on some RaceTech front gold emulators and springs w/ .80kg/mm rate
I'm 150# sans gear and the 16kg springs work for me on my W, set on softest preload. These are better than stock but not top quality shocks. A friend just bought some Ohlins for his Triumph T100 for around $500. Cogent Dynamics I believe.
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:47 PM   #941
ORexpat
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Concur with acap. Dave Quinn gave me 20kg Hagons to start with--much too harsh. We subbed 18kg and still a tad too harsh. Dave's easy to work with, and will provide different springs at no charge--at least once.

I'm about 165 not including riding gear, and I don't ride double.

Put Olin's on the GS--fantastic piece of kit, but very pricy. If you want to get every bit out of your Dub in the twisties, I'd say upgrade from Hagons to whatever your wallet can afford. If you just want better-than-stock, the Hagon's are fine.
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:21 PM   #942
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Actually I'm wanting something that would match up with the Race Tech gold emulators & .80kg/mm springs. So Ohlins will be overkill...looks like Ohlins aren't available for the W anyways.

I'm thinking of the Hagon 2810 adjustable shocks but DaveQuinnMC said that the compression damping might be too stiff for my weight. The 2810 run $305.

DQMC also recommends to me the 16kg springs for the type A or P for my weight and mostly solo riding.

So the folks that have the Race Tech gold emulators & springs, do they match up well with the Hagon type A or P shocks? One doesn't out do the other? or they well matched?

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Old 05-06-2012, 04:01 PM   #943
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Well put in the Hagon 300mm 18kg and RaceTech 80kg with Gold emulators it rides great so much smoother more supple and feels more planted. I went with a 300 because I wanted to lower the bike by an inch but now had just realized that I should of went with a 310mm because I wanted to be lower by an inch at the rear axle not the shocks..so I'm guessing is that at the rear axle it about 35mm lower. For the front I lowered it by 30mm. Stock forks is suppose to have 130mm of travel and to keep the front and rear balance I dropped the front down to 100mm of travel. I just put a spacer in the top out spring side to take up 30mm. After doing the front, I measured it and it seems to be less then 100mm more like 80mm of travel...I'm not sure if stock is really 130mm or not, it could be that they are also counting the top out spring if that was fully compressed then I could see 130mm. I left the emulators at 2 turns with the blue (lighter) springs, 15wt oil and have 6 holes in the damping rod. The spring rate for the front and back seems to mate up really well. DQMC had suggested that I went with a 16kg hagon for my riding weight of ~150# but I decided to go with the 18kg because I felt that would mate up and be better balance with the Race Tech springs of 80kg (their lightest spring). I left 20mm of preload up front and softest preload in the rear. I also had to modify, torch bend, the kickstand to accommodate the 30mm drop on both ends. The bike looks way better with it lowered and is more stable with the kickstand down because I made it so it leans over more then stock. I'll post up some pics once I finish up the kickstand. I'm gonna have to shorten the center stand too cause as of now it is almost impossible for me to get it up on the center stand, I have to get the rear up higher like roll it on a brick to be able to deploy the centerstand.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:09 AM   #944
Speedo66
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Just want to mention that I'm still looking for a top/rear rack for a W. If you've got one you're not using, please let me know.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:08 PM   #945
zwish
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Replacement Seat / Lower Bars

Hello everyone! I just picked up a 2000 Kawasaki W650. Although the engine is great, I'm really not into the stock handlebars/seat setup (seems I'm not the only one). I definitely want to swap the bars out for some superbike or clubmans and the seat to something like the Corbin gunfighter. I've been trying to do some research and I can't seem to find a clear place to purchase the shorter throttle and clutch cables required for using lower bars. Also, are there any other alternatives to the Corbin Gunfighter / Gunfighter & Lady seat? I saw this photo and while I'm sure it's custom, it's exactly what I'm looking for:

w650_DSCN3114

Thanks very much.
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