New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

[zwish]

Originally Posted by Scrivens

Route the cables first and make sure they (ie the whole cable, not the inner cable) can be pulled backwards and forwards freely where they have been run, then connect the inners to the throttle, bolt it back up, turn it a few times to check the inners move smoothly and to get any twists out the inners and lastly connect the inners to the carb lever. Check you haven't pushed the rubber grip end into the edge of the switch block as well as that will stop the throttle moving cleanly.

Cool, thanks. I'll try that method this evening and report back. I went into the job thinking it was going to be fairly easy due to "the jerk's" photo guide on page 20. Sadly, I spent a good long while and got nowhere.

[Barnone]

Originally Posted by Speedo66

Sounds nice, but as they say, it didn't happen without pictures.

Photos please.

Yep, that's the law around here.

[hockeygoon]

Originally Posted by Speedo66

So my question is, is there now a better tire choice for the bike, if not, which version of the Bridgestone is recommended? How are they on mileage? What sizes are you using?

I await your wisdom oh learned tire gurus.

I put BT45s on, but I can't recall whether they were H or V. I'll take a look tonight when I get home. This one change made such an improvement in the bike, it was like I changed bikes. Ride improved, handling was better, stopping vastly improved.

[zwish]

When you guys removed your throttle cables from the carbs, did you find that you had to pull very hard to get the cables out of the retainer bracket? I felt like I had to pull way too hard to the point that I might damage something.

[zwish]

Also, for you guys who are using 7/8" handlebars. When you shimmed them, did 7/8" to 1" shims work for you? I picked up these off of amazon and they did not work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o01_s00_i00

There was way too much play in the bars still. I ended up putting 3 half circles on either side of the bar clamps and that worked, but now I don't have enough to finish the job.

[ORexpat]

I bought my shims from a local bicycle shop, who ordered them from Quality Bicycle Parts, a wholesaler. They are called "Problem Solvers" and come in several sizes. IIRC, mine were sized for BMX clamps. They're knurled, like the ones in your link, but the knurling was much more prominent--and they've never slipped. Again, IIRC, they came in about 1" lengths, so had to hacksaw them to length. Two packages did both clamps and both brake/clutch perches.

Here's the link to Quality Bicycle Parts website. http://www.qbp.com/ Unfortunately my network at work won't let me pull up the catalog browser, but maybe you'll have better luck. But since they're a wholesaler, you'll have to go to your local bike shop to order, if you wish.

[zwish]

Originally Posted by ORexpat

I bought my shims from a local bicycle shop, who ordered them from Quality Bicycle Parts, a wholesaler. They are called "Problem Solvers" and come in several sizes. IIRC, mine were sized for BMX clamps. They're knurled, like the ones in your link, but the knurling was much more prominent--and they've never slipped. Again, IIRC, they came in about 1" lengths, so had to hacksaw them to length. Two packages did both clamps and both brake/clutch perches.

Here's the link to Quality Bicycle Parts website. http://www.qbp.com/ Unfortunately my network at work won't let me pull up the catalog browser, but maybe you'll have better luck. But since they're a wholesaler, you'll have to go to your local bike shop to order, if you wish.

Do these look like the ones you picked up?

http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solver.../dp/B001F2Y2RO

Thanks so much for the tips!

[ORexpat]

Looks like Amazon did you proud! Those are the shims I used. (Now, how to keep the local shops in business . . . )?

[zwish]

Originally Posted by ORexpat

Looks like Amazon did you proud! Those are the shims I used. (Now, how to keep the local shops in business . . . )?

Hah! I always hit up the local bike shops first. I'm an avid cyclist as well as motorcyclist. Definitely better at working on bicycles! Thanks again for the info.

[The Jerk]

Originally Posted by zwish

When you guys removed your throttle cables from the carbs, did you find that you had to pull very hard to get the cables out of the retainer bracket? I felt like I had to pull way too hard to the point that I might damage something.

It should not be any real chore to pull the cables out of the bracket unless there is some major corrosion between the bracket and the metal sleeve around the cable. I can't remember exactly because it was a long time ago, but I can't remember if you need to remove the cable ends from the throttle on the carbs before you can remove the cables/sleeves from the bracket. In other words I don't remember which step comes first.

Try removing the cable ends from the throttle linkage on the carbs first, then removing the cables from the bracket.

EDIT: I just re-read my post back on page 20 and you do indeed have to remove the cables from the throttle linkage before you can get them out of the bracket.

[The Jerk]

Originally Posted by zwish

Alright, so I received the cables and seat today and got to work on the shorter throttle cables. I had a hell of a time removing the throttle cables from the little bracket down near the carburetors. I had to pull as hard as I could to get them out of the retainer bracket. Once I got the new throttle cables threaded in,

How did you get the two new cables threaded in to the throttle grip housing? I just for the life of me could not figure out how to make it happen when I was doing the install, but if you can tell me how you did it, I'd love to go back and install the other short throttle cable I have.

As for the cables binding, check your cable routing (there is a cable routing chart in the back of the service manual). If you route them the wrong way around something, they can definitely bind.

[zwish]

Originally Posted by The Jerk

How did you get the two new cables threaded in to the throttle grip housing? I just for the life of me could not figure out how to make it happen when I was doing the install, but if you can tell me how you did it, I'd love to go back and install the other short throttle cable I have.

As for the cables binding, check your cable routing (there is a cable routing chart in the back of the service manual). If you route them the wrong way around something, they can definitely bind.

I threaded them in at the throttle grip housing as the first step. They enter the housing at two different heights so you have to do the shorter of the two first, then once that is in, you should have enough space to thread the other cable into the housing. I'll try to take a video this evening.

As for the biding, hopefully my routing was just off. I'm going to give it another go tonight.

[The Jerk]

Originally Posted by zwish

As for the biding, hopefully my routing was just off. I'm going to give it another go tonight.

I guess my only other suggestion is to make sure you have the opening cable and the closing cable connected to the right parts of the throttle linkage on the carbs. If you lose track of which is which, operating the twist grip while seeing what the cable ends do to the throttle linkage should point out which is which.

[The Jerk]

Hey all, I compiled a list of links to my how-to posts and put it at the top of the first post in this thread. For easy reference in the future.

[rxkea]

Originally Posted by Barnone

Yep, that's the law around here.

I saw pic when I put it on. Did it again and looks to be there now.