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Old 08-19-2012, 07:24 PM   #1186
OaklandStrom
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Originally Posted by ORexpat View Post

Too bad they make you put all those stickers on the fork leg.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:26 AM   #1187
ORexpat
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Originally Posted by Barnone View Post
ORexpat,
Great photos, like your black and white treatment.
Thanks. Was playing with the contrast and exposure in Aperture to try to get to the crisp blacks and whites of the "ancient film era." Still have a ways to go . . . though they look better printed than on the screen.

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Originally Posted by OaklandStrom View Post
Too bad they make you put all those stickers on the fork leg.
True. I use the Dub to get on base at times, plus VA requires a state inspection every year . . . .
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:22 PM   #1188
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Been after a W650 for a while now - couple of years to be precise........ Most of my bikes tend to be pre-1990's....... modern stuff just leaves me cold


I was really keen to get a Triumph Scrambler.... but after riding one wasn't overly impressed - especially considering the money they cost secondhand


So tried a W650 & it hit the right buttons..... totally fantastic for a modern bike So picked this up today - 350 mile round trip.








This is a 2001 model with 15k miles & a few extras as you can see - rack, screen & Scottoiler..... all which have now been removed. It came with a Kawasaki workshop manual, tank cover & matching tank bag & spare seat.

Don't like the bars so will get a lower set.... Already removed the smog stuff (my bikes imported to UK)..... and that'll be it for a while
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:31 PM   #1189
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Pretty bike, not a color combo we got in the US. Another difference is by 2001 the US seats were ribbed.

Good luck with it!
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:35 AM   #1190
zwish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford View Post
Been after a W650 for a while now - couple of years to be precise........ Most of my bikes tend to be pre-1990's....... modern stuff just leaves me cold


I was really keen to get a Triumph Scrambler.... but after riding one wasn't overly impressed - especially considering the money they cost secondhand


So tried a W650 & it hit the right buttons..... totally fantastic for a modern bike
I totally agree. I actually sold a 2008 Bonneville to get the W650. The 650 is just a bit more affordable, lighter, more character, just as reliable, and more fun to ride for me. I will say that the stock Bonneville suspension is WAY better than the stock W suspension (I will probably upgrade the W eventually). I personally hate the stock seat/bar setup on the W as well. That's an easy remedy though and I was riding the Bonneville with Norman Hyde M bars so it's not an even comparison in that regard.

I ended up putting the LSL Flat Track seat & Bikemaster Superbike Handlebars on it and they definitely improve the ride comfort and handling. Best of luck and enjoy your new bike!
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:45 AM   #1191
zwish
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Question for those who have removed the Kawasaki Clean Air (KCA) air injection system.

  1. Now that you've had the system off of the bike for a while now, do you find that things are running smoother?
  2. Would you do it again?
  3. Do you still need to adjust the carb air mixture screw even if you remove the KCA? If so, are most people sticking with around 3 turns out?
  4. Does this help with headers bluing due to running lean?
Thanks very much!
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:11 AM   #1192
Bar None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zwish View Post
Question for those who have removed the Kawasaki Clean Air (KCA) air injection system.

  1. Now that you've had the system off of the bike for a while now, do you find that things are running smoother?
  2. Would you do it again?
  3. Do you still need to adjust the carb air mixture screw even if you remove the KCA? If so, are most people sticking with around 3 turns out?
  4. Does this help with headers bluing due to running lean?
Thanks very much!
zwish
Removing the KCA from my W650 did not change the way it runs at all. It might make the engine run a little cooler and reduce the chance of the exhaust pipes bluing. I would do it again but it's not a big deal either way.

The two guys that have W650s that I met in Tellico Plains recently had neither the idle screws changed or the KCA removed and their Ws ran just fine.

Removing the KCA has nothing to do with the air mixture screws. The air is injected in the exhaust flow down stream of the exhaust valves and has no effect on the engine's tune. The purpose is to clean up emissions.

I use three turns out because it seemed that I lost MPG at 3.5 turns out and three still improved the warm up. You might experiment with anywhere from 2.5 to 3.75? Not a big deal to try different settings.

Might help the bluing but I think the bluing is caused by excessive idling of the W650 but I have not had the bluing with any of the three W650s that I have owned over the years so I can't say one way or the other.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:17 AM   #1193
Bar None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
Pretty bike, not a color combo we got in the US. Another difference is by 2001 the US seats were ribbed.

Good luck with it!
Pigford,
I agree with Speedo66 that your W is a good looking bike.

Looks more like a 2005 or 2006 Japanese model W650 to me rather than a 2001.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:34 AM   #1194
zwish
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Ok that makes sense. I haven't experienced any bluing so far, I just want to avoid it because my Triumph had dramatically blued. Not necessarily a bad look, I just dig the pure chrome. I'm finally getting my tank back tomorrow so I'll be doing some work this weekend just to make sure everything is running smoothly. Probably a new battery, oil/filter change, and then look into removing the KCA. Pictures to come. Thanks for the info.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:59 AM   #1195
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In theory, removing the KCA should not have any effect on the mixture and should not affect how the engine runs.

However, when I removed the KCA on my bike, the engine did run noticeably smoother, idled higher, and warmed up faster. I had to correct the idle speed with the black adjustment knob on the side of the carb.

I can only assume this is because the vacuum diaphragm in my KCA valve was leaking and thus creating a vacuum leak which would cause the mixture to be a little leaner than it should be.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:21 AM   #1196
zwish
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Originally Posted by The Jerk View Post
In theory, removing the KCA should not have any effect on the mixture and should not affect how the engine runs.

However, when I removed the KCA on my bike, the engine did run noticeably smoother, idled higher, and warmed up faster. I had to correct the idle speed with the black adjustment knob on the side of the carb.

I can only assume this is because the vacuum diaphragm in my KCA valve was leaking and thus creating a vacuum leak which would cause the mixture to be a little leaner than it should be.
This was one of the main reasons I asked. I just went back through this whole thread and saw the post where you said that the idle speed had increased by about 300rpm. My W650 is very slow to warm up and also has a little bit of the popping on deceleration (not as bad as other seem to have it). I think after what you guys say that Removing the KCA and adjusting the air mixture screw will cure these minor issues.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:46 AM   #1197
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My '01 has the occasional small amount of popping on decel, but since my long gone vintage Triumph used to do that as well, I just regard it as part of the overall vintage flavor of the bike.

Can't say I mind it at all.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:52 PM   #1198
zwish
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So I picked up some of the Shell Rotella T6 5W40 oil. For you folks using this, is it ok use during the warm summer months? It's about 85-90 here in VA right now, but it will soon cool off. Thanks.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:56 PM   #1199
Burninator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zwish View Post
So I picked up some of the Shell Rotella T6 5W40 oil. For you folks using this, is it ok use during the warm summer months? It's about 85-90 here in VA right now, but it will soon cool off. Thanks.
WARNING - OIL DISCUSSION FOLLOWING.
Disclaimer - I'm no petro-chemical engineer. Just some guy on the internet giving out free advice, FWIW.

I just changed my oil with the same stuff, and have used it on several bikes without ill effect. Owners manual calls for conventional dino oil with a viscosity rating of 10w40, 10w50, 20w40, or 20w50. Here in Oregon, our Summers are fairly mild with highs in the 70's - low 90's. I see no problem using it. Previous owner was running Castrol GTX 20-50. I've noticed smoother shifting, especially when the bike is cold.

Rotella T6 will have the same high temperature performance of any SAE 40 weight or multi-40 weight oil at 100 C. However, the 5W rating indicates improved flow at lower temperatures than 10w40, 20w50, etc. By the way, W stands for winter. For a good explanation on viscosity ratings:

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

As far as using non "motorcycle specific oil" in a motorcycle, just make sure the circular API symbol doesn't say "Energy Conserving". Energy conserving automotive oils have additives that can cause clutch slippage. The API symbol looks like this:


Cheers

Scott
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:51 PM   #1200
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Simple enough. Thanks so much for taking the time to illustrate that so clearly. Take care!
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