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Old 10-16-2012, 06:05 PM   #1336
ORexpat
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Location: West of Seattle . . .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by folmonty View Post
Just reading through the postings and saw this - make a small hole using a drill after punching a dimple with a nail or punch (lightly). Then put a wood screw in 1/2 turn and pull the cap out. It's very easy but you must remove the carbs to do it.
I had a dremel when I did mine. With a 90 degree attachment it's pretty easy. Used a short conical dremel tool to bore through the cap. I recall I used a nail or an awl to pop the cap out.

I suspect that the cost of a dremel tool is worth it compared to pulling the carbs just to remove the airscrew caps.

BTW, thanks for the compliments on the photos and riding area. The riding's indeed fine-almost makes up for having to live in the DC metro area!
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:31 PM   #1337
Speedo66
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I used a regular Dremel, came in on an angle with a round head bit, and pulled the cap off with a little hook tool.

Did all with the carbs on, no need to remove.

The Cap't Jake thread on shimming the needles is still down, it's pretty straight forward though. Just remove enough stuff over the carbs until you're able to unscrew and remove the tops of the carbs. Then lift up needle and rubber diaphragm, remove needle and put the shim/washer on it, return needle to carb, and put everything back together.

The only thing I don't remember is the thickness/size of the washer.

*TIP* I remember in the thread he cautioned to put a rag to cover the gap in the engine below the carbs so if you dropped a screw, etc., it wouldn't be lost.

Barnone, thanks for the tip on the parts search. I'll try and join and take a look.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:01 PM   #1338
zwish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
The only thing I don't remember is the thickness/size of the washer.
Does anyone happen to know the size of the washer required for the shim mod? Excuse my ignorance on this mod, but it's purpose is to improve fueling, get rid of flat spot in the power delivery, and improves warmup time, correct?

I'm going to hopefully knock out the shim mod and KAC removal before winter arrives. I commute to work through the winter months. Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:19 PM   #1339
Pigford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zwish View Post
Does anyone happen to know the size of the washer required for the shim mod? Excuse my ignorance on this mod, but it's purpose is to improve fueling, get rid of flat spot in the power delivery, and improves warmup time, correct?

I'm going to hopefully knock out the shim mod and KAC removal before winter arrives. I commute to work through the winter months. Thanks!
The shim size is not hyper-critical, it will effect from approx 1/8 throttle open to 3/4 - or from part throttle to when the needle is clear of the emulsion tube (needle jet) and the main jet is fully open. I'd have thought a 0.5mm thk washer would have a slight effect, combined with doing the pilot jet screw to make it a bit richer.

Every bike will be slightly different depending on engine condition, fuel type, carb wear, altitude, etc, etc..... so whats been recommended for one bike, won't necessarily be right for yours
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:47 PM   #1340
ORexpat
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I had a couple of shims in mine. They were just tiny washers from the hardware store that were the right size to slip over the needle.

But I took them out. The only difference I noticed was poorer mileage. If there was any more power with them, the seat of my pants couldn't tell.

I do have the air system blocked, and the air screws are somewhere around 3 turns out. I still need to get off my lazy seat-of-pants and try the "Jon Haddock" method of getting the air screws right. Not that he's necessarily right either, but it's an easy thing to try.

(Bike about half warmed up, turn the idle down to where it barely runs, then try to adjust the air screws to the point where you can hear the difference . . . since I don't know exactly what to listen for, it should be fun! Then take the idle back up to the normal 900-1000 rpm).
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:56 PM   #1341
zwish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORexpat View Post
I had a couple of shims in mine. They were just tiny washers from the hardware store that were the right size to slip over the needle.

But I took them out. The only difference I noticed was poorer mileage. If there was any more power with them, the seat of my pants couldn't tell.

I do have the air system blocked, and the air screws are somewhere around 3 turns out. I still need to get off my lazy seat-of-pants and try the "Jon Haddock" method of getting the air screws right. Not that he's necessarily right either, but it's an easy thing to try.

(Bike about half warmed up, turn the idle down to where it barely runs, then try to adjust the air screws to the point where you can hear the difference . . . since I don't know exactly what to listen for, it should be fun! Then take the idle back up to the normal 900-1000 rpm).
Hah! I read that same post. I did not come away from it feeling like I knew what i would be doing. I guess from what you guys are saying, the shim mod doesn't sound that useful. I think for now, the only carb adjusting mods I'm going to do is to keep my air mixture screws at 3 turns out & remove the KAC. Maybe rejet for riding through the winter? Does adjusting the air mix screw have the same effect as rejetting?

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Old 10-18-2012, 08:40 PM   #1342
tonymorr
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I've been lusting after a W for years. I finally picked one up from a fellow inmate last weekend. I couldn't be happier with it. It's everything I was hoping for.





I've learned a lot about the W's here. I can always count on the ADV community for helpful information I'd like to start giving back right away. The bike already had Race Tech Emulators and .85kg springs in the forks which should be about right for my 195lbs. I noticed right away that the sag seemed excessive and the rear (equipped with Hagon shocks) seemed to handle bumps better than the front.

I measured rider sag at about 1.875" and static sag(no rider) at about 1.125"

I took out the 5 15/16" spacer and replaced it with a 6 5/16" spacer.

The rider sag is now 1 1/4" and the static is 3/4".

I took it for a ride and the ride quality seems much better and I think it handles better too. Only did a short ride. Hoping to get some more seat time this weekend.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:42 PM   #1343
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Congrats on the new ride!
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:07 PM   #1344
Bar None
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tony,
Very nice looking 2001 W. Nice find.
My 2001 with LeatherLyke hard bags. Not as clean as yours.

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Old 10-19-2012, 03:53 AM   #1345
Forde
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lovely bike! dont see them much in ireland, i would quite like one after seeing yours/
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:21 AM   #1346
husqzilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonymorr View Post
I've been lusting after a W for years. I finally picked one up from a fellow inmate last weekend. I couldn't be happier with it. It's everything I was hoping for.



.
Wow - what a nice specimen. Corbin seat, low bar kit, Hagons. And it's the green & cream colors, best of them all. I'll bet whoever let that one go has some regrets.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:35 AM   #1347
tonymorr
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Originally Posted by husqzilla View Post
Wow - what a nice specimen. Corbin seat, low bar kit, Hagons. And it's the green & cream colors, best of them all. I'll bet whoever let that one go has some regrets.
I bet he does He'll be ok. He has a nice Honda 919.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:51 PM   #1348
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Nice bike with all the right stuff, good luck with it!
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:07 PM   #1349
tonymorr
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200 mile ride today through Vermont. I ***LOVE*** this bike!!!
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:47 PM   #1350
Scrivens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORexpat View Post
I had a couple of shims in mine.
...
But I took them out. The only difference I noticed was poorer mileage. If there was any more power with them, the seat of my pants couldn't tell..
The shims raise the needle sightly to put a tiny bit more fuel into the air/fuel ratio at about 1/4 throttle opening. Old carb needles had circlips and grooves for tweaking the off-idle response. It won't make more power - it stops stumbling in the transition from the pilot air circuit as the needle and main jet comes into play. About 2mm would equate to one circlip groove on an old AMAL. Larger mains are the only jetting part of the carb which will effect power at all, and that's only if it is done in conjunction with changes to the amount of air coming into the throat. All carb tuning does is to adjust the air/fuel ratio to maximise the burn efficiency of the fuel at a given rpm and load.

Quote:
I do have the air system blocked, and the air screws are somewhere around 3 turns out.
...
(Bike about half warmed up, turn the idle down to where it barely runs, then try to adjust the air screws to the point where you can hear the difference . . . since I don't know exactly what to listen for, it should be fun! Then take the idle back up to the normal 900-1000 rpm).
The air screw smooths the idle, maximises the fuel efficiency at idle and nothing more. It has no effect on the bike once the carb is running off the pilot circuit and the slide and needle are rising. To adjust it properly get the bike fully warmed up, set the idle at the correct rate - 1000rpm - and *very slowly* turn the screw in until the motor stumbles. Then turn it out until the engine revs go up to their fastest point, and keep turning it past that until the motor just starts to stumble or hunt, then turn it back in 1/2 a turn. Do one carb only to this point and then do the other side the same. Adjust the idle speed (if it has changed) back to 1000rpm and do the whole thing again until you get the idle at that 1/2 turn back point and idling at the correct speed. You need to make each turn of the screw very slowly and in tiny increments and wait for the carb to adjust to the new mixture before you move it again. Take about 10 mins per air screw and do it in a quiet place where you can really hear what the motor is doing. If it still isn't perfect after 10 mins per side, take the bike for a short run to cool it off and do the final tweaking. On a multi cylinder bike you can do the same with a set of air gauges, but you still need to balance the dials at that same point where the idle is at the fast point on each carb as the screws are turned.

I tuned AMAL and Bing carbs for racing for years and while the 650's are slightly different internally they are still simple carbs (ie they don't have multiple-stage replaceable jets) and the basic stuff is the same for all.

Scrivens screwed with this post 10-21-2012 at 01:34 AM Reason: typos...
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