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Old 12-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #1441
pumps
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Location: Kansas City, MO
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Watts = Amps x Volts
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A 2000 W650 is my daily rider.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:17 PM   #1442
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Thanks pumps and ORexpat. Exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:50 AM   #1443
Kentucky
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I have a nice 01 coming up for sale. Nice accessories, super perfect w/17k miles. Bought it from the original owner when it had 3k miles. Just wanted to do an early heads up to my fellow W enthusiasts.
Barry
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:11 AM   #1444
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Location: Far East of the Western World
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If you weren't so far away I'd jump on that!
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:09 AM   #1445
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Hey pumps, tried to send you a message but got a message that said you do not receive private messages. Regardless, thanks for the offer, but I have a copy of the manual at home. I just happen to be very far from home, and was looking to order a Gerbing jacket liner. Again, thanks for answering my question.

Nomad
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:49 AM   #1446
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Location: North Dorset, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentucky View Post
I have a nice 01 coming up for sale. Nice accessories, super perfect w/17k miles. Bought it from the original owner when it had 3k miles. Just wanted to do an early heads up to my fellow W enthusiasts.
Barry

Photo's ?
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:56 AM   #1447
OaklandStrom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pumps View Post
In my factory Kawasaki W650 service manual on page General information page 1-10 it states :

Alternator: Type Three-phase AC
Rated Output
18 A-14 V @7 500 r/min (rpm)

Hope that helps.
I hate it when the manual only gives one (mostly useless) data point. You won't be spending much time at 7,500 RPM, unless your riding style is the exact opposite of what this bike was built for.

Is it the KLR where the Wattage is given at a higher RPM than the bike will spin?
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:15 PM   #1448
Barnone
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Location: WNC SWFL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OaklandStrom View Post
I hate it when the manual only gives one (mostly useless) data point. You won't be spending much time at 7,500 RPM, unless your riding style is the exact opposite of what this bike was built for.

Is it the KLR where the Wattage is given at a higher RPM than the bike will spin?
Yep. Pretty good document at http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

18A at 14V equals 252W at 7500RPM

Pretty weak output.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:37 PM   #1449
Blakebird
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Location: Parker, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnone View Post
Yep. Pretty good document at http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

18A at 14V equals 252W at 7500RPM

Pretty weak output.
I typically run a Signal Dynamics voltage monitor, which is a spiffy little microchip behind a single LED. Small and easy to mount unobtrusively, it's a great way to keep an eye on marginal charging systems.
I'll put one on the W, heated gear is a requirement when you ride year round in CO.

My R1150GS Adv put out upwards of 700w, it was able to push a pair of PIAA's, heated grips, Gerbing liners x2, and not blink an eye (except at a low idle).

My GL1800 put out something like 1100w, you could light a small ball field with that bike
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:00 PM   #1450
Burninator
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Seats

Allright. I hate my seat, and I'm looking for feedback from others who hated their seat but found an acceptable solution. My W is a 2000 with the smooth seat cover and stock high bars. I find myself sitting right on the ridge of the seat that occurs exactly wear the seat latches to the bike. Also, the forward slant of the seat results in junk to tank contact. FYI, I'm 5'11" with a 33" inseam. I see my options as follows:

1) Have someone local rebuild the seat.
2) Corbin gunfighter
3) Something expensive from Japan, Germany, etc.
4) Increase my butt toughness.

Options I'm not willing to try include: Sheep skins, Walmart atv seat pads, hemorrhoid cushions.

I hear people say that the 2001 and later seat is more comfortable. Isn't it the same seat with a different cover?

Anyone have a Corbin they want to sell?

Thanks

Nomad
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:07 PM   #1451
jmlmjmjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonad Nomad View Post
Allright. I hate my seat, and I'm looking for feedback from others who hated their seat but found an acceptable solution. My W is a 2000 with the smooth seat cover and stock high bars. I find myself sitting right on the ridge of the seat that occurs exactly wear the seat latches to the bike. Also, the forward slant of the seat results in junk to tank contact. FYI, I'm 5'11" with a 33" inseam. I see my options as follows:

1) Have someone local rebuild the seat.
2) Corbin gunfighter
3) Something expensive from Japan, Germany, etc.
4) Increase my butt toughness.

Options I'm not willing to try include: Sheep skins, Walmart atv seat pads, hemorrhoid cushions.

I hear people say that the 2001 and later seat is more comfortable. Isn't it the same seat with a different cover?

Anyone have a Corbin they want to sell?

Thanks

Nomad
Put the Kawasaki low bars on (or any superbike bend bar). This changes where you sit on the seat, no longer on the ridge and in a much more comfortable spot nearer the front of the seat. I did this on mine, noticeable improvement.

Eventually went to a Corbin Gunfighter but the handlebar change is less expensive and was something I could live with If I had to.
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:58 PM   #1452
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Agree on the handlebars--that's by far the best first step--and much cheaper if you go with the el-cheapo Bikemaster bars like I did.

Now that I know I really prefer lower bars, I'd not hesitate to buy a better-quality bar if the current setup rusts too much, or some such thing.

I've got a Corbin Gunfighter on mine, bought used through an inmate. I find the firm saddle much comfortable than stock, but wouldn't mind having just a small layer of softer foam over the hard stuff. Plus, I've discovered that the hard seat actually blurs my vision at higher revs--believe it's just my glasses vibrating ever so slightly!

I may try to re-do the stock seat sometime myself, but will never go back to the original seat as-delivered. I call it the "one hour wedgie seat."

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Old 12-14-2012, 05:30 PM   #1453
Burninator
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jmlmjmjm and ORexpat, thanks for the insight. Low bars are on my Christmas wish list. Anybody think getting the legit kawasaki bars are worth the cost?
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:11 AM   #1454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonad Nomad View Post
jmlmjmjm and ORexpat, thanks for the insight. Low bars are on my Christmas wish list. Anybody think getting the legit kawasaki bars are worth the cost?

Nope Total joke at that price!

All you'll need to do is re-route the cables/hose & cut a few spacer shims for converting from 1" down to 7/8" bars.



Also agree the seat is trash - my bike is an early model with big knee-pads & uncomfy seat...... butt (sic) I find its not too bad with the lower bars
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:33 AM   #1455
jmlmjmjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford View Post
Also agree the seat is trash - my bike is an early model with big knee-pads & uncomfy seat...... butt (sic) I find its not too bad with the lower bars
You can purchse the slimmer knee-pads from the later models. Easy fix, not to expensive, more comfort.
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