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Old 09-24-2012, 06:46 PM   #91
JimVonBaden
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Originally Posted by tjconc View Post
There is no conflict with the fairings. The only problem I ran into was during the install. There is a bolt that gets replaced that runs all the way through the top of the engine. It took a little muscle (understatement of the year) to break the original one loose.

I was glad to discover that the crash bars do not need to be removed in order to remove the valve covers. Valve checks are still a breeze.
Same experience I had with a friend's. Just don't drop it hard. Makes getting off the valve cover more difficult!

Jim
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:50 PM   #92
ragtoplvr
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Originally Posted by Rinty View Post
+1; mainly because of the better gear spacings, and the elimination of surging.

I had an 1150RS for a few years, and the thing that strikes me the most about the ST over the RS is how "flexible" the engine is in 6th gear. Both bikes have the same overall gearing in 6th, giving 80 mph at 4,000 rpm, but the ST will happily run as low as 3,200 rpm in top, while the RS seemed to be unhappy at anything under 3,800 rpm. Any thoughts on why this might be, Jim, other than the lower weight of the bike, and the greater horsepower?

[Note to board: my normal operating rpm is 4,000]

The other thing that I can't figure out is why the fuel mileage is so much better. I was getting an average of 43 mpg (U.S.) on the RS and the ST gets 52.

I just rode the ST back to back with a Ducati ST2, and found it corners equally well, and seems to turn in a bit quicker. My bike has a Battleaxe 16 and 20.

To date, my only nit about the ST is the abrupt throttle activation at low speeds in the lower gears

But I have fond memories of my beautiful Pacific Blue RS.



I dropped the footpegs 40 mm with a Verholen kit, and have the bars in the full up position. I'm 6'1" with a 35" inseam, and these changes make the bike reasonably comfortable for me. The peg to ground distance is the same as an RT, after installation of the kit.

.
For all you RS owners that want better smoother low RPM performance go buy some Bosch 4417 plugs.

And set the valves to .005 intake and .010 exhaust.

then watch out because first gear power wheelies no clutching or bouncing needed will start to occur you need to be careful if the tank is near empty as it can get quite high and drop hard as the rev limit is hit. Cover that back brake.

Rod

And finally bags off, winshield lowered rider tucked you can hit the rev limiter in 6th.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:29 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
For all you RS owners that want better smoother low RPM performance go buy some Bosch 4417 plugs.

And set the valves to .005 intake and .010 exhaust.

then watch out because first gear power wheelies no clutching or bouncing needed will start to occur you need to be careful if the tank is near empty as it can get quite high and drop hard as the rev limit is hit. Cover that back brake.

Rod

And finally bags off, winshield lowered rider tucked you can hit the rev limiter in 6th.

And watch your valves burn!

The conventional wisdom is the loosen the valves a couple thousanths, and use Autolite 3923 plugs.

IMHO A tappy valve is a happy valve. Tight valves are BAD!

Jim
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:01 PM   #94
ragtoplvr
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
And watch your valves burn!

The conventional wisdom is the loosen the valves a couple thousanths, and use Autolite 3923 plugs.

IMHO A tappy valve is a happy valve. Tight valves are BAD!

Jim
Good so far like 30K miles. My valves are well bedded in, I might adjust one a slight amount every 6K miles so do not think I ma hurting it a bit. If one thou on the intake and 2 on the exhaust burn the valves there is another problem. Looser gives less surge, tighter is better top end. I happen to like tighter, and the 4417 and good balance make surge very minimal. Now if you did .003 and .006, that is getting into worry lan.

Rod
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:16 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
Good so far like 30K miles. My valves are well bedded in, I might adjust one a slight amount every 6K miles so do not think I ma hurting it a bit. If one thou on the intake and 2 on the exhaust burn the valves there is another problem. Looser gives less surge, tighter is better top end. I happen to like tighter, and the 4417 and good balance make surge very minimal. Now if you did .003 and .006, that is getting into worry lan.

Rod
If it works for you, but I would strongly suggest others think twice before moving away from the factory spec.

Jim
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:32 PM   #96
Royal Tiger
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She's home!!!!

Quick question as they are looking for an owners manual for her. What kind of gas should I use? Regular, plus, or super?
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:04 AM   #97
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She's home!!!!

Quick question as they are looking for an owners manual for her. What kind of gas should I use? Regular, plus, or super?
It depends on who you ask. The owner's manual suggests that you use super. It then goes on to say the regular works with some slight risk of detonation at low RPMs. I have always run regular in all my R1200 bikes with no issues.

Jim
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:55 AM   #98
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I have always run regular...with no issues. JimVonBaden
This is interesting; I might try a tank or two. In any event, my home city is 3,500 ft above sea level.

Doesn't the 1200 engine control unit retard the timing when lower octane fuel is used?

Hell, with our bikes' power to weight ratio being what it is, we can afford to give a few ponies away.

Rinty screwed with this post 09-28-2012 at 10:41 AM
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:05 PM   #99
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This is interesting; I might try a tank or two. In any event, my home city is 3,500 ft above sea level.

Doesn't the 1200 engine control unit retard the timing when lower octane fuel is used?

Hell, with our bikes' power to weight ratio being what it is, we can afford to give a few ponies away.

Yes, it does have knock sensors, so no knock above 1700 RPM. In reality, unless you are getting a knock, regular gas will make more power and give you better mileage. It all depends on how you ride.

Jim
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:40 PM   #100
DannyZRC
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Being air (and oil) cooled, the engine will see a much larger swing in temperature over various operating conditions, the fuel must tolerate even extreme operating conditions.

food for thought.
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:27 PM   #101
Royal Tiger
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When you are only buying 4 gallons at a time the 30 cents for super doesn't seem like a big deal. I always ran 93 octane in the RSV-R and ST3. I was curious what was recommended. How about oil? Full synthetic, half, or Dino?
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:45 PM   #102
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...30 cents for super doesn't seem like such a big real...Royal Tiger
No, you're right.

Quote:
...oil...
The manual has recommended viscosities, and I, or someone here, can give you those (don't have it handy this minute).

As for synthetic oil, if you're going to use it, you will want to make sure that the engine is fully broken in, which can take some time with Oilers and Hexheads. At 15,000 miles, your bike's engine is probably broken in. Other than that, I will make no suggestions about which to use.
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #103
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When you are only buying 4 gallons at a time the 30 cents for super doesn't seem like a big deal. I always ran 93 octane in the RSV-R and ST3. I was curious what was recommended. How about oil? Full synthetic, half, or Dino?
Depends on how much you ride, but I prefer not to waste my money. Just me I am sure.

Full synthetic for oil, but again, that is just me.

Jim
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:43 PM   #104
Royal Tiger
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Thanks guys.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #105
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Thanks guys.
Congrats on getting her home.

I'm even more frugal (read -> cheap) than Jim. I've always run regular gas and 20W-50 dino oil (no energy conserving stuff). No problems with knocking or anything else here.

YMMV

TJ
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