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Old 07-27-2009, 09:02 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flanny
...Not too late to put some nice holes in the bracket then....










Do you think it might weaken it?
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:04 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PABiker
Do you think it might weaken it?
not if they are dimple died.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:44 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubblehead
not if they are dimple died.

Exactly. A dimple-die would actually add strenght.

I love your piece, but in truth, the problem of flexibility is not well solved by making the piece thicker. The trick is to make the piece have more 3 dimentional edges that act againts the flex. The idea would be to put a bend on one of the edges, or a hole that creates a lip at the back, or the original triagulation idea you had.

If it's not too late, you should ask your fabricator about a dimple die-cut hole...
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:36 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubblehead
not if they are dimple died.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flanny
Exactly. A dimple-die would actually add strenght.

I love your piece, but in truth, the problem of flexibility is not well solved by making the piece thicker. The trick is to make the piece have more 3 dimentional edges that act againts the flex. The idea would be to put a bend on one of the edges, or a hole that creates a lip at the back, or the original triagulation idea you had.

If it's not too late, you should ask your fabricator about a dimple die-cut hole...
I will run all these ideas past them, if I am going to do this then I need to take into account what all of you think too. I plan to meet with them early next week.

Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:50 PM   #110
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No to dimples

G'day all, I reckon you'd need a serious dimpler to punch and dimple an edge in 1/4 inch cold rolled steel and besides when you look at Joe's bracket there isn't that much room for a dimpled hole/s.

Also the dimpled edge of a hole may interfere with the folding process. I vote keep it plain and the manufacturing time and cost down.

Cheers Rich
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:25 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich too_wheelz
G'day all, I reckon you'd need a serious dimpler to punch and dimple an edge in 1/4 inch cold rolled steel and besides when you look at Joe's bracket there isn't that much room for a dimpled hole/s.

Also the dimpled edge of a hole may interfere with the folding process. I vote keep it plain and the manufacturing time and cost down.

Cheers Rich
good point rich, it would be pretty tough to dimple die 1/4". and it would increase the cost also. but...... if you could reduce the thickness of the steel, because of the added strength from the dimple died hole(s) it may be beneficial. it couldnt hurt to ask the machinist his thoughts. just my 2 cents.
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:20 AM   #112
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Yeah - I wouldn't go farting around too much right now with last-minute changes. You've got a great "Version 5" about to start production, so get this version out there, and then begin work on the next round of tweaks for Version 6!

Having said that, I am certain that this piece could be made with 1/8 or 3/16 steel if is was properly/structurally triangulated with some edges and stuff....particularly the riser leading up to the sub-frame.

Didn't mean to cause any hesitation or stir...Just can't keep the engineer in me from shutting-up sometimes.....
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:08 AM   #113
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Update:

Just got off the phone and Rev 4 is now in the works.

Had to shave 0.250" off the right side of the mounting face and make sure the right hole is located exactly 0.187" from the right edge. This will allow the Hall Effect switch mounting bracket to fit properly.

Also made a minor change to the underside mounting for the centerstand bump stops. The bumpstops will be on their own tab and the bracket will mount to the existing bump stop mounts using new screws. The bump stops were not strong enough to use as a solid mount.

Hopefully I will have the next rev for testing by the end of this week if not early next week.

Thanks in advance everyone for your patience.
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:06 PM   #114
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So I got called to the fab shop this morning because they got one of the rev 3 brackets back from the machine shop and needed to see if the holes were in the correct place.

Well, they weren't. They managed to get the location of the spring bolt too low which threw off the other two bolt holes.

I was asked to leave behind my kickstand so they could send it along with 5 of the new rev 4 brackets which just came off the brake press.

By early next week I will have the one to test fit.

I'm getting closer, hopefully I will have something for all of you soon.
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:13 PM   #115
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I should really only speak for myself, but I'm sure we all appreciate your hard work.

This type of back-and-forth to the fabricator stuff is why I haven't tried to come up with my own solution.
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:19 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stobie
I should really only speak for myself, but I'm sure we all appreciate your hard work.

This type of back-and-forth to the fabricator stuff is why I haven't tried to come up with my own solution.

it's ok, cuz he is gonna make MILLIONS of dollars.

yup.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:08 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PABiker
Update:

Had to shave 0.250" off the right side of the mounting face and make sure the right hole is located exactly 0.187" from the right edge. This will allow the Hall Effect switch mounting bracket to fit properly.
I was under the assumption that the HAL effect switch could not be relocated as the wiring was too short. I was all set to buy the Duke bypass kit and do away with the switch. Have you figured out how to get it to work? Would save around $30.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:19 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stobie
I should really only speak for myself, but I'm sure we all appreciate your hard work.

This type of back-and-forth to the fabricator stuff is why I haven't tried to come up with my own solution.
Thanks, I'm trying my best.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:22 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigstain
I was under the assumption that the HAL effect switch could not be relocated as the wiring was too short. I was all set to buy the Duke bypass kit and do away with the switch. Have you figured out how to get it to work? Would save around $30.
Unfortunately no. There is no way around lengthening the wiring for either the 950 or 990 switches if you want to keep them.

My concern is making the bracket capable of working with either switch since they mount in different locations.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:26 AM   #120
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I wonder if it is really worthwhile to worry about the sidestand switch. Seems to me that those of us that are using the bikes in places that require the relocation, probably have (or should) disabled the switch due to the cutting out caused by off-roading. Mine is jumpered as well as my clutch switch.
Just thinking out loud.
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