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Old 01-03-2010, 05:22 PM   #16
Quickv4 OP
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Very interesting Mark. Yeah, it very well could be, the "normal" SS/SX 250 head's ports are less radical, and I can see what you mean by them being more "moldable" so to speak, where one could use the meat of the stock ports to form them to what they desire in them.

My father made a crazy MX/SS hybrid like this 20+ years ago, and he said it is wicked fun on the street! Bumping the power from 18HP to 32 can make a difference!

He did try to "top out" the Hybrid (or is it a mutant??) when he had it together. He had it going up to 110MPH and the flat-track pipe just kept the engine screaming an' pullin at 10000+ RPM!!! He kept going at WOT and then SCREEEECH, the engine siezed, his rear tire locked up at speed.

Thankfully he quickly pulled in the clutch quick enough that he did not crash, and coasted to a stop. Waited a few minutes to cool, and it started up, but that engine with that piston and cylinder never ran the same ever again.


Today we have a NOS cylinder and piston inside...



Yeah, A Sherpa S would look sweet streetracked! Post it up if you do start on it! I have no experience with any of the spanish makes, but Im guessing there as oddball here in the US as these small italian brands!
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:07 PM   #17
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More fun drilling holes...

First the heavy steel kickstand





A bit lighter, but still heavy. Maybe in the future we can fab one out of aluminum when we have a TIG someday.

Then the front fender brace-



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Old 01-04-2010, 07:13 PM   #18
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Then my father and I toyed with the position of the bobbed front fender...


more centered ( just a smidge (1cm) biased rearward)



majorly biased towards rear



The less biased one looks better to both our eyes...





The same two positions above, but without bodywork...






Trying to figure out how to make a new bead on the front lip????? Maybe someone at a hotrod shop has an english wheel or beader that could reproduce the OEM bead????? OEM one is about 5mm wide...

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Old 01-04-2010, 07:16 PM   #19
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Put the headlight back in and got it hooked up...




Pics for today...




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Old 01-05-2010, 08:06 PM   #20
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My father called up charleston cycle in illinois (one of two major aermacchi/hd parts houses in the USA, other one is Moto Italia in Cali) We prefer doing buisness with Leslie at Moto Italia, but Charleston had what we needed.

We needed 2 new tach cables (both the one we were going to use on the ST, and the one on our stock SS, are both shot!) 18bucks/piece

Also one Speedo Cable for the ST. Only 18 there too.

AN one new rubber lower mount for the tank, since the ST does not have one yet...



Also went to the Decal place and am having repros made of the AMA Harley Davidson Script logo as seen on the Flattraker in the first post of the thread. We have TWO of the originals, and told them to be careful, since they are in the original protective sheath and backing, complete with vintage 3M logo!

That'll cost us 50 bucks, mostly for the drawing fee ($25) to transfer them to the computer. Then its 12 dollars/decal after that.
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:29 PM   #21
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That's gotta be a blast to ride! Nice work.


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Old 01-12-2010, 01:15 PM   #22
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Bloody Bollocks!!!

ARRRRGGGHH!

We got the tank decals put on last night, getting closer and closer to getting the thing on the road.



So I then get it fired up this morning to tune it even closer to perfection (still very slow rev'ing from off-idle) I play with the jetting on the idle circuit, the screws, what have you, it DOES NOT make a difference wheather I have a 60 or 55 in, 2 turns out, 0, or 6. It will still not idle properly below 1500, and the adjustments have no effect.

So I sit on it for the rest of the day, and I think TIMING, thats what it must be! Advancing it a smidge will help, since we are running 110 leaded. SO I pull off the lefthand engine cover (easy feat mind you).

I rotate the flywheel by hand to get the timing marks lined up....

and I notice ALOT of sideways play through the rotor!!! DAMMIT!!!! Our crank pin broke its welds loose!!

I bet that thing was just flopping around at idle, messing with the timing, which might explain why it was so un-tunable at low RPMS

We had the crank trued and welded (a few pin welds around) last spring. $75 down the tubes, and now we gotta figure out what to do next. We are pretty cash-strapped right now, so I guess she'll have to wait for our next move.

I guess now we can still get the poor bike's carcass complete, so that when we get the engine fixed up right again, we can just plop it right in and ride.
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Old 01-12-2010, 02:14 PM   #23
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that blows a goat dude. sorry to hear it.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:25 PM   #24
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My word, has it been over a year! Time for an update...

We now had the money to follow through and get the darn thing properly repaired.

So I split the cases and pulled the crank out of the engine...








For sure, the welds were broken on the one side!

So I boxed it up and sent it to Falicon

http://www.faliconcranks.com/index.html


A week later, we got the call from Raphael at Falicon. They could rebuild it! But, due to it running out of true for that time, the con rod big end was scored. The pin also rocked in the crankaft end, and would have to be bored through to a bigger straght pin (currently running a stepped crank pin)

Problem is, ALL of the parts sources for the MX 250 con rods are DRY. Nowhere to be found.

But a rumor was that a vintage CAN AM 370 rod has the same bearing sizes, and is only one mm longer! Due to the 370 being a rotax, parts are still available! Hot dog! Only mod to make it work in athe MX 250 engine is then a 1mm shim in between the cylinder and case.

So today I called up Tony Murphy in Cali, a vintage CAN AMparts supplier, He had a NEW can am 370 rod/bearing/pin/shim set IN STOCK. I told Tony to order that sucker up and send it to Falicon.

So it looks like we are heading in the right direction!
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:35 PM   #25
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Keep it coming!!
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickv4 View Post
Yeah, A Sherpa S would look sweet streetracked! Post it up if you do start on it! I have no experience with any of the spanish makes, but Im guessing there as oddball here in the US as these small italian brands!

i have a sherpa s setup street tracked - i had it setup for dirt with 18 and 21 - now it has ds tires on it - gotta swap the 19" front wheel back in and it'll be neato. it's wicked fast on the pipe. was planning on putting total loss lighting on it and terrorize the streets. or sell it
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:15 PM   #27
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http://home.tiscali.nl/~jahstof/sonny/sonny.htm

have you checked with this guy for parts?
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:19 AM   #28
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Thanks bomber!

We actually know Sonny, all of us Aermacchi guys are pretty tight-knit. He does really good restorations! I have checked with all of the major parts suppliers stateside ( Moto Italia, Charleston Custom Cycle) and MX 250 internal engine parts are almost dried up. This engine was made really for only one year (1978).

I will be ordering a pile of misc. parts from Moto Italia soon though!
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:36 AM   #29
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Buy it, you wont regret it! Our stock SS 250 has been rock solid reliable, just use blue loctite on everything! Dellorto Carburetors, Electronic ignition, Betor , Ceriani, or Marzocchi forks, Veglia gauges, whats not to like? 95% of wear items you can still get with ease/
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:10 PM   #30
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A little update, you guys need one

Still Waiting on the crank from Falicon. They got the CanAm conrod from Tony Murphey and have made some progress on it. Some factory racers have taken precedence over me, and they say they want to take their time with my crank, so its done right, since it is such an odd-ball, one-off job.

I have been getting many small things done while waiting for the crank. Finished the kickstand, so now the bike can stand on its own.


One moderate accomplishment, I made the subframe/tailsection to hold the rear of the seat up and mount the taillight too...



Showing it mating up with seatpan...




I can remove the seat by undoing ONE bolt from the bottom near the end of the tail-section ( you may be able to see the hole) it taps into a OEM threaded boss in the seat pan.

Remember the fend/brace? Well, I lightend it even MORE and did the final welding...



bottom showing lightend brace...



welded up original holes, fender will be totally smooth!



And finally, what the rolling frame looks like today....










Also fettled up many minor things. Installed a Italian-made twist throttle, polished the fork legs and wheels. Rigged up the front brake.

MANY little things to do while waiting for the crank.
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