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Old 11-27-2009, 10:22 AM   #16
Anorak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
That wont really help for those like the ones in the photo above if they do their own work, and it is not like BMW didn't redesign the old ones. Plus, the actual numbers of this must be very low indead or we would see this post repeated hunderds of times for every 10 times it happens, like with EVERY other problem BMW has.

Jim
Who does their own services? That would be absurd.
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
On all the bikes I have changed tires on, and worked on, I have not seen one bike with cracks, but I always check. I've probably seen 50-60 bikes in the last couple of years that I had a chance to examine.

I can't estimate, but I doubt the percentage is high unless you own one of the first 500.

Jim
Thanks for the info. Thats about as valuable as we get around here. I'm guessing my 07 has the newer design, so I will not worry.
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
the actual numbers of this must be very low indead or we would see this post repeated hunderds of times for every 10 times it happens, like with EVERY other problem BMW has.

Jim
I wonder how many owners of the 3.8 million affected Toyota/Lexus vehicles actually have had the gas pedal get stuck on the floormat? This bullshit of BMW not owning up to mistakes is well, bullshit. Peoples lives are at stake and you want to defend a multi million dollar corporation? I just don't get it. Not every owner who has experienced this problem reports it on ADVrider.
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Old 11-27-2009, 02:01 PM   #19
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Jim isn't defending BMW/nor would I. It's just that we don't panic and run around screaming that the sky is falling when something VERY unusual happens to a BMW. He is correct in stating that every problem reported is repeated 100 times...kinda reminds me of...better left unsaid.
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Old 11-27-2009, 02:32 PM   #20
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Shit breaks on Hondas also, and Honda does not admit it is due to any fault of thiers also. Why all the brand bashing? I happen to ride BMWs now, and have ridden HDs, Suzukis, Hondas, ect... for a long time and every brand has had shit fail and not taken responsibilty for it, just like alot of owners have fucked shit up and blamed it on others... I am not saying that the OP had anything to do with his breaking BTW, I am just making a general statement. There are casting issues no matter who the end manufacturer is.
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onesaintsfan
Could this be from snugging the lug nuts up too tight
but I don't think so. The cracks are where the brake rotor attaches to the flange. The wheel attaches at the thicker portion, the hole to the left and slightly lower than the cracked hole in my picture, above.

Besides, I change my tires and always use a torque wrench for the lug screws.
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:50 PM   #22
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Oh, and a follow up. I don't know (or care ) if this is a common failure. It isn't common enough for the local dealers to stock the part. For those who care, a replacement flange is about $260. That's cheaper than an OEM replacement disc rotor.
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Old 11-29-2009, 04:12 PM   #23
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Anton, thanks.... the flange came off with a lots of heat and a little bit of help from a harmonic balancer puller. Note to others... skip the heat gun... go directly to the torch.



Click on the picture for more info.
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Old 11-29-2009, 04:50 PM   #24
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Nice work mm, I've got one of those pullers if it comes to that.
Jim
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Old 11-29-2009, 04:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchyman
Anton, thanks.... the flange came off with a lots of heat and a little bit of help from a harmonic balancer puller. Note to others... skip the heat gun... go directly to the torch.


Click on the picture for more info.
Thanks.

I'll save this thread
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Old 12-05-2009, 09:14 PM   #26
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The recipe for installing the new flange is to bake at 350F for 45 minutes. The flange slips over the axle tube with zero force.



Click on the pic for more info.
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchyman
Oh, and a follow up. I don't know (or care ) if this is a common failure. It isn't common enough for the local dealers to stock the part. For those who care, a replacement flange is about $260. That's cheaper than an OEM replacement disc rotor.
It's still ludicrously expensive for a part that's not suppose to fail at all, and BMW wipe their asses on this issue.
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Old 12-06-2009, 07:10 AM   #28
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It would be interesting to see how the new one differs from the old one.
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:23 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchyman
The recipe for installing the new flange is to bake at 350F for 45 minutes.
Click on the pic for more info.
The actual max temp for flange removal / installation is 230 degrees F. Too hot and you run the chance of damaging the axle seals. Packing the axle tube with ice should help prevent the need for excessive heat. The manual calls for replacing the seals while the flange is off in case they were overheated during the removal. I would also pull the sensor out of the way while heating, just to be safe.

bemiiten screwed with this post 12-06-2009 at 08:38 AM
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Old 12-06-2009, 12:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemiiten
The actual max temp for flange removal / installation is 230 degrees F. Too hot and you run the chance of damaging the axle seals. Packing the axle tube with ice should help prevent the need for excessive heat. The manual calls for replacing the seals while the flange is off in case they were overheated during the removal. I would also pull the sensor out of the way while heating, just to be safe.
Good points, but....

The temp read with a non-contact thermometer when pulled out of the over was about 250. That was before I mounted my "carrier" and got the part to the bike. 30 minutes in the oven at 275F did not get the flange hot enough. 350 at 45 minutes was my second try.

The mass of metal that used to sit next to the seal has been replaced in the current version of the flange with a thin metal lip of some material. I wonder if it was because of seal damage.



See the seal? I cleaned the grunge and checked the seal after removing the flange. It looked (and felt) to be in excellent condition. My sensor never got too hot (as in never got too hot to touch). I checked. Keeping the flame from the torch in the little channel that surrounds the splines in the flange probably helped. If I thought it was too hot I was prepared to shield the sensor with some foil. I prefer that to removing it and leaving an open hole.
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