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Old 12-24-2009, 01:52 PM   #61
BSR-1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsuki1
this is a great build, i did my dr350 [435] bigbore last winter . here is what i am running 435 big bore, ground header, opened up stock muffler, drop in cam, fcr 37mm carb, ported head, no base gasket, 0 squash band,as of this weekend dr250 cdi. next i have a complete front end off my husaberg fe501 wp 50mm extreme that i am going to adapt to it. i am thinking of lightening the flywheel and also going to the dr250 for more timing ,but am wondering about detination,this build has enspired me to complete my bike thanks.
I'm with you for the most part but am I reading you right that you are running with zero squish clearance?

& I'm assuming that you used some type of sealant on the base in place of a gasket?
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Old 12-24-2009, 02:56 PM   #62
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yes zero squaish clearance, piston at top dead center is level with the top of the cylinder.

yes i use the permex copper spray made for head gaskets on the base, also use it on the head gasket as well. it is a little messy but cleans with carb cleaner sprayed on a towl after it dries. need to cure 24 hours before starting engine, do not try to fuge or you will be disasembling and resealing it.ask me how i know.

slowsuki1 screwed with this post 12-24-2009 at 03:06 PM
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:07 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsuki1
yes zero squaish clearance, piston at top dead center is level with the top of the cylinder.

yes i use the permex copper spray made for head gaskets on the base, also use it on the head gasket as well. it is a little messy but cleans with carb cleaner sprayed on a towl after it dries. need to cure 24 hours before starting engine, do not try to fuge or you will be disasembling and resealing it.ask me how i know.
how many hours (miles) do you have on this motor?

did you actually measure the squish or did you just eyeball the top of the deck?
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Old 12-25-2009, 09:47 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsuki1
yes zero squaish clearance, piston at top dead center is level with the top of the cylinder.
In that case the squish clearance is equal to the thickness of the head gasket. Probably around .040" to .050".

Any motor set up with a true zero squish clearance would destroy itself in short order. You have to have some clearance to allow for the piston rocking in the bore, rod & crank stretch at high rpm, parts expanding when hot, etc.
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Old 12-25-2009, 12:42 PM   #65
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well yes it has a headgasket .032 copper. i only have around 200 miles on it but it runs great with no pinging, i do run lucas octane booster , it is the only over the counter stuff sold around here that works. do not need it, but runs better with it, plus it has top end lubracateing qualities.

i used feeler gauge with piston at tdc to get zero.

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Old 12-25-2009, 12:46 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsuki1
well yes it has a headgasket .032 copper. i only have around 200 miles on it but it runs great with no pinging, i do run lucas octane booster , it is the only over the counter stuff sold around here that works. do not need it, but runs better with it, plus it has top end lubracateing qualities.
So it actually has .032" squish clearance. That's just about perfect.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 12-27-2009, 06:33 AM   #67
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Hello,

I am surching for a Mikuni TM33, the flatslide allso used on the DR350.
Has someone off you any idea who has a nice one to spare?
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Old 12-27-2009, 08:00 AM   #68
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one other trick i used, was to cut 2 1/2 inches off the fork springs and add OD pvc spacers of the same length , made a big diffrence in front end diving when braking and better all around handling, also used 10wt fork oil. i am a big boy at 280+ so if you do this mod and are lighter might not want to take off that much.

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Old 12-28-2009, 05:28 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowsuki1
this is a great build, i did my dr350 [435] bigbore last winter . here is what i am running 435 big bore, ground header, opened up stock muffler, drop in cam, fcr 37mm carb, ported head, no base gasket, 0 squash band,as of this weekend dr250 cdi. next i have a complete front end off my husaberg fe501 wp 50mm extreme that i am going to adapt to it. i am thinking of lightening the flywheel and also going to the dr250 for more timing ,but am wondering about detination,this build has enspired me to complete my bike thanks.
Thanks and wow, your bike sounds awesome. You say, fcr37 and ported head? What are the details on the head work? Did you have the intake enlarged? better yet do you have a build thread somewhere?
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:33 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcalis
I have seen a 1996 offroad model with both. From what I can understand, the head change (with auto decomp cam) was needed for the e-start dualsport models. Suzuki kept the provision for manual decomp on these new heads so one part could be used for both bikes. E-start bikes will not have the decom shaft and the un-needed hole is simply plugged inside. The 1994 off-road models should have the newer auto decomp cam and the manual decomp lever. You can kick these bikes without using the lever, but it helps to get the kick start lever in the correct starting position before the kick.

It is also useful for clearing a flooded cylinder after crashing (I have a lot of experience with this) Hold the lever down and kick-kick-kick
Thanks for the info jcalis. I just got the motor out of the 94 tonight. Tomorrow I'll pull the head and see if it interchanges with the 99 head.
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:47 PM   #71
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Engine Removal

Everything except some of the motor mounts have been removed.


All mounts removed. On my DR650 rebuild people asked why I didn't just lay be bike on it's side and take the motor out. So, I thought I'd give it a shot. It didn't work.


Laying on it's side does not work because you have to spin the motor and then tip it out. There is a trick to it with it upright as well.


If you're not lifting the motor from below it will want to fall backward and jam up in the mounts. Once I stuck that little piece of 2x4 under the motor it swivled and popped right out.
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:07 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech
Everything except some of the motor mounts have been removed.


All mounts removed. On my DR650 rebuild people asked why I didn't just lay be bike on it's side and take the motor out. So, I thought I'd give it a shot. It didn't work.


Laying on it's side does not work because you have to spin the motor and then tip it out. There is a trick to it with it upright as well.


If you're not lifting the motor from below it will want to fall backward and jam up in the mounts. Once I stuck that little piece of 2x4 under the motor it swivled and popped right out.
Thanks this post probably saved me 30 minutes and a backache this week. I'm off Wed/Thurs/Fri and plan to strip my 98SE down to the frame for paint.

Jamie
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:55 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by SloSolo2
Thanks this post probably saved me 30 minutes and a backache this week. I'm off Wed/Thurs/Fri and plan to strip my 98SE down to the frame for paint.

Jamie
Cool, hope you post about it.
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:11 PM   #74
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Footpeg Mount Removal

Forgot to get a picture of this yesterday. Those tabs look like they are there to protect the leading bolt from impact and I guess they do but they also get smashed around the bolt head. The left one I couldn't get a socket or wrench on and had to use a cold chisel to beat enough space so I could turn the bolt. I got the mounts off, but those bolts still wont come out of the holes. I wonder if a newer skid plate will protect the bolts enough so I can grind those tabs off?
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:37 PM   #75
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"Dirt" vs "Street" Frames

Frame weights determined by "accurate" bathroom scale!
  • 94 DR350 - 26lbs
  • 93 DR350S - 26.5lbs
  1. Steering column lock on S model.
  2. Gas tank mounts on the bulge on the S and the indentation on the dirt model.
  3. Dogleg for side stand switch on the S model.
  4. Passenger peg mounts on the S model.
  5. Left side rear (plastic?) mount has two bolt holes on the S and one on the dirt model.

The 94 dirt frame need some additional work. The cross member has a cracked weld on the left and there is a crack in the main tube at the other end of the cross member.
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