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Old 12-30-2012, 08:34 AM   #17581
6USMC6
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Melt and cast outside with either a breeze or a low powered fan blowing the smoke away from you.

You will get hot.

The worst thing that you can do is let a drop of sweat fall into the molten lead.

IT WILL EXPLODE ! ! !

I never wore gloves (but would now) and I have the scars to demonstrate.

Wear glasses and a long sleeve, cotton, tee shirt. Absolutely NO synthetics - if the lead splatters and hits polyester, it will melt into your skin. Tends to be a skosh painful.

Take your time and have absolutely NO distractions.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:06 AM   #17582
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If you cast in a well ventilated area and wash your hands before sucking on your fingers, lead poisoning is not a problem.

Even if you do suck on your fingers without washing them, cigarettes probably will(maybe already have) do more harm to you then the lead.

I think the most dangerous thing about molten lead is the possibility of spills or splashes. It's really freakin'' hot and takes a long time to cool off.
And like Mike says, you don't want any moisture getting in it.

Ain't they purdy?
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:24 AM   #17583
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There is a product available from Brownell's called "D-Wipes" that comes in both toweletts and lotion that is designed to specifically remove lead from your skin. And, since I worked at a range and had to get b-annual lead checks, I proved that using D-Wipes was effective.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:37 AM   #17584
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I'm in need of CCI 550 magnum primers...........with everyone freaking out, it may be months before I can chunk any 357.

38s will have to work for now.

Back to the basement to prep more cases.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:38 AM   #17585
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Originally Posted by WayneJ View Post
Ain't they purdy?

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But things were getting tense, and I know nothing defuses a tough situation faster than boobies.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:54 AM   #17586
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With all the hot-air around here and lack of bullets will this be what the next ride-to-shoot looks like?

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Old 12-30-2012, 10:08 AM   #17587
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That's what the first one looked like.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:01 AM   #17588
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You can use small rifle primers in a .357 as long as you haven't lightened the mainspring.

You can also use small pistol primers in a .357 as long as you don't use a hard to ignite powder like WW296 or H110 and you don't try to load it hot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scott P View Post
I'm in need of CCI 550 magnum primers...........with everyone freaking out, it may be months before I can chunk any 357.

38s will have to work for now.

Back to the basement to prep more cases.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #17589
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Sounds like we need a ride to load! (RTL) Followed shortly thereafter by a Ride Top Shoot. RTS. I still plug away with my single stage Lee press. Takes a long time to produce a batch!


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Old 12-30-2012, 12:17 PM   #17590
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I used a single stage to load for IPSC the first year I shot it. I was going through 400-500 rounds a week between matches and practice so I'd load 100 rounds a night or do a marathon and stay up all night. Once I bought the first Dillon it was a piece of cake. I could load 500 rounds of .40 or .45 in a little over 30 minutes. The only thing I load that takes time now are match grade (sub MOA stuff) rifle. With all of the prep work, it takes several minutes for each round.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:21 PM   #17591
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Ride to Lead-Lead to Ride,,,RTL-LTR

I've cut many a sprue from the Lyman molds as a young boy to now.....sized, lubed and loaded which means handling bullets many times over....built many a shotgun shell....molded lead soldiers and painted them with lead paint. Molten, cut, grind, file, sand.....dug up lead at old shooting ranges....played with crates of lead solder, Linotype and wheel weights and formulated alloy ingots....built my own hardness tester....worked for 18 years in an electronic PCB manufacturing house with multiple wave solder machines which I had to build and modify fiberglass assembly solder fixtures for the line and clean out the machines...put lead solder in my mouth.....played with jars of mercury building manometers for industrial gauges and multi-cylinder engine synchronizers.....put mercury into throwing darts....mercury was in primers and propellants and the burnt residue in firearms.....worked on many brake shoes and drums..with air hoses...Hell, even lived in an asbestos sided house in NJ. We had liquid carbon tetrachloride and fire extinguishers, methyl ethyl ketone, trichloroethylene, sulfuric and muratic acid in glass jars and every other form of Kalifornia baby killing solvents in the house...chlorine, gasoline, ammonia, used oil, paint strippers, varnish, stains, acetone, lacquer thinner, turpentine, toluene, R-12 and every form of liquid-airborne metal and paint by heat or welding.....

.....Damn, now I forgot my point.

Oh yea, I turned out alright?
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ecubed screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 03:42 PM Reason: forgot toluene
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:22 PM   #17592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6USMC6 View Post
You can use small rifle primers in a .357 as long as you haven't lightened the mainspring.

You can also use small pistol primers in a .357 as long as you don't use a hard to ignite powder like WW296 or H110 and you don't try to load it hot.
I didn't know about the rifle primers.........thanks
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Originally Posted by Boondoggle View Post
But things were getting tense, and I know nothing defuses a tough situation faster than boobies.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:25 PM   #17593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecubed View Post
.....Damn, now I forgot my point.

Oh yea, I turned out alright?
That sure does explain a lot...........

Sorry, couldn't help myself.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boondoggle View Post
But things were getting tense, and I know nothing defuses a tough situation faster than boobies.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:01 PM   #17594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott P View Post
I didn't know about the rifle primers.........thanks
Just remember you will have to back off the powder charge you're currently using if you change primers.

And like Mike said, if your not using a ball powder, you don't need magnum primers.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:16 PM   #17595
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Scotty -
Load 5 rounds with sm rifle and try them. The biggest thing is having enough spring pressure to set them off. I run rifle primers in all of my sm primer 1911s - even with wimp loads - because it simplifies inventory. I have to keep small pistol primers for Mary's Glocks - otherwise I would load everything with small rifle. If you'll tell me what load you are using I can give you a safe starting point for small rifle in the place of small pistol. With magnum handgun loads, unless you are loading a max load - foolish in anything but a Freedom Arms, a TC or a Blackhawk - mag pistol to sm rifle is generally one-to-one. If you already have a load with magnum primers, back it off .1 to .2 (one to two tenths) and chrono.
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