ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-15-2014, 12:33 PM   #1
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
XR600R Street and Trail Build

Finally, I'm back in the land of two wheels and dirt. Sold my Honda 919 only five months ago but ended up with a dirt bike two weeks ago. I knew I couldn't go long without some handlebars in front of me.

I will be putting details in here about mods, upgrades, and ideas on how to make this (mostly) stock bike into a better street and trail warrior.

1996 Honda XR600R


First thing I need to do is put this bike on the street. Luckily Colorado is easy. I need a bill of sale, brake light, headlight, horn, mirror, and DOT tires. A mirror, brake light kit, and headlight came with the bike so the rest is up to me.

Since the 35w headlight doesn't illuminate much of anything and I need to add a higher wattage light for brake along with a circuit for a horn, I decided to rewind the stator. Ordered some 18AWG magnet wire the other day so that will hopefully get done this week. Also, the horn I have to use off my old XL350R is a DC horn but the bike is AC so I decided to build a rectifier circuit as well.

Went to radio shack and picked up a bridge rectifier and capacitor for $12. A little over priced but it was easy.



Wired the capacitor in parallel with the DC side to smooth out the pulsing DC current.



And then wired in a weather pack plug to the four terminals.



Wrapped the thing in rubber electrical tape then regular electrical tape.



I will plug it in and check it tonight if I find the time.

Joshua
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2014, 08:40 PM   #2
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
I didn't like the look of tape and it wasn't waterproof so I took it off and made a mold for some epoxy and dipped the circuit in the resin.

It looked great but I just got home and tested it. It rectifies great unfortunately the 35v capacitor charges to over 20v when put under a light load (post AC regulator). Looks like I need to either regulate after the rectifier circuit or get a lower voltage capacitor.
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2014, 05:14 PM   #3
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
Here's the rectifier circuit after I coated it in epoxy.



Got some goodies in.



Installation was pretty simple. Got the speed sensor installed on the caliper with no issues. I like the TrailTech, it does just what I need and not really anything more.





Installed a brake light and switch so I could get the thing plated. Pretty straight forward wiring for that too.



Put my hand guards back on after doing some slight bending to them. They are cheap generic guards but seem sturdy enough. They didn't fit right and kept conflicting with my clutch cable so after I purchased some new Renthal bars I tweaked the guards to fit right.



Threw on my other rear sprocket that came with the bike. 14/48 instead of the 14/50

Now I'm going to start searching for a rack to put on the back, a headlight kit, and maybe some flush mounted blinkers. Oh, and maybe a D606 to put on the front. I don't need it yet but I picked up a snowmobile regulator/rectifier from work and will wire that in instead of my homemade job.



More to come. Any suggestions on racks or headlight kits?
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2014, 05:38 PM   #4
Alaskajeff
Beastly Adventurer
 
Alaskajeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Palmer, ALASKA
Oddometer: 1,143
Mike at www.manracks.com builds a NICE rack for the XR. As for headlights Acerbis has some decent ones or if you have a good budget Baja Designs 8" race light is really a great unit. eBay, Amazon or the parts section in the classifieds here is a good place to look.
__________________
Palmer, ALASKA
1 Tim 6:11-12 "FIGHT the GOOD Fight"
2011 Verys ADV
92 FATBOY (in rebuild status)
Alaskajeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2014, 05:54 PM   #5
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskajeff View Post
Mike at www.manracks.com builds a NICE rack for the XR. As for headlights Acerbis has some decent ones or if you have a good budget Baja Designs 8" race light is really a great unit. eBay, Amazon or the parts section in the classifieds here is a good place to look.
Any experience with the XRs Only rack?
http://www.xrsonly.com/xrs-only-bill...-xr350r-xr600r
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2014, 07:24 PM   #6
Alaskajeff
Beastly Adventurer
 
Alaskajeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Palmer, ALASKA
Oddometer: 1,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder_Jay View Post
Any experience with the XRs Only rack?
http://www.xrsonly.com/xrs-only-bill...-xr350r-xr600r
I have no first hand experience with XR's Only rack, lots of their other stuff I've used, I'm sure it's a quality product as well. I'm a little partial to the manrack version only because I helped Mike design it And he is a super good guy to work with if you want any custom work done to it.
__________________
Palmer, ALASKA
1 Tim 6:11-12 "FIGHT the GOOD Fight"
2011 Verys ADV
92 FATBOY (in rebuild status)
Alaskajeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2014, 12:49 AM   #7
atravlr
Gnarly Adventurer
 
atravlr's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Arizona Desert
Oddometer: 202
The horn looks great!
atravlr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2014, 10:43 AM   #8
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by atravlr View Post
The horn looks great!
Thanks. Needed something to appease the DOT.

Looks like I am picking up an Acerbis DHH CE headlight. The Baja Designs race light doesn't really have a low beam.

Sent from my XT720 using Tapatalk 2
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2014, 12:16 PM   #9
Alaskajeff
Beastly Adventurer
 
Alaskajeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Palmer, ALASKA
Oddometer: 1,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder_Jay View Post
Thanks. Needed something to appease the DOT.

Looks like I am picking up an Acerbis DHH CE headlight. The Baja Designs race light doesn't really have a low beam.

Sent from my XT720 using Tapatalk 2
The older ones do but they are getting harder to find still in decent shape. I had the twin light version with 55/60 Watt hi/lo beams, it worked great.
__________________
Palmer, ALASKA
1 Tim 6:11-12 "FIGHT the GOOD Fight"
2011 Verys ADV
92 FATBOY (in rebuild status)
Alaskajeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2014, 09:04 AM   #10
The Shred
Airventurer
 
The Shred's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: NY82: ALB 156 @ 13
Oddometer: 425
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder_Jay View Post
Any suggestions on headlight kits?
I like this set up. 100w low beam always on and a switch for 100w hi beam.




I like the Baja Designs headlight on my other bike but I wired that so the 60w hi and 55w low beam are on at the same time.
The Shred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2014, 09:40 AM   #11
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Shred View Post
I like this set up. 100w low beam always on and a switch for 100w hi beam.




I like the Baja Designs headlight on my other bike but I wired that so the 60w hi and 55w low beam are on at the same time.
That is a nice looking setup. I picked up a new Acerbis headlight through Promotive for under $50 so if I like it will will stick with it but if not, I will be looking into some Baja Designs goodness.
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2014, 03:49 PM   #12
MartiniUp
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: TX
Oddometer: 1,822
If blinkers are not required I would not install them. I have never had any that worked properly long term. Always an issue not worth the bother.
MartiniUp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2014, 08:51 AM   #13
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartiniUp View Post
If blinkers are not required I would not install them. I have never had any that worked properly long term. Always an issue not worth the bother.
Probably won't install them until I need them. If I ride in a city a lot, it would be handy but as it is, I live in a smaller town area and we have a lot of roundabouts.

Thanks for the suggestion.
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2014, 09:59 AM   #14
Thunder_Jay OP
Here and There
 
Thunder_Jay's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Rockies
Oddometer: 157
More Power!

Since I'm planning on some real lighting and the stock stator only puts out about 45W, I decided to rewind my stator.

The bike runs single phase A/C with a shunt A/C regulator hooked up in parallel with the circuit. I purchased an 8 oz. roll of 18AWG magnet wire to rewind my stator.

First step is to remove the stator cover on the left side of the engine. You'll end up with this beauty.



As you can see, only four of the ten stator posts are wrapped from the factory. The two posts on the left that are wrapped and covered in black are the ignition coils; don't mess with these. There are three bolts holding the stator to the cover and there's a small metal guard holding the wires down as they exit the stator cavity. Remove the three bolts and pull out the metal cover (it is just just held in with friction.)

The back side of the stator has a metal clip that is screwed into the pole shoes. Remove this little guy and untwist the wires so you can identify which two wires go to the stator windings.



After you identify the stator wires, start unwinding. I just pulled on the wire to break the epoxy that covers the coils. Occasionally the wire would break but I would just get some needle nose pliers and twist on the coil until the wire broke loose again. Careful not to break the plastic on the posts. If you pay attention, the posts are wound alternating clockwise and counterclockwise. This is important because you have to reproduce this when rewinding your stator. The alternating directions is what causes the A/C current. Also, take note of how many wraps the factory put on your stator. If you don't wrap enough when you put it back together, you won't achieve enough voltage at idle.



After you get all the wire off, take your magnet wire and start winding. Leave plenty of wire as a tail when you start so you have enough to splice back in to your wiring harness. Weave the wire all the way from the beginning through the posts to the last post then wind that post. It doesn't matter which direction you start winding (clockwise or counterclockwise.) This bike had 76 wraps per post so I did the same with I rewound it.







Unfortuanately, 8 oz. wasn't enough. I was 70 wraps away from having the whole stator wound when I ran out of wire. This isn't a significant issue, is just doesn't allow me to achieve full wattage out of my stator.



Once you finish winding, check your resistance. I have about 1 ohm of resistance through the entire coil. The stock stator used 20AWG wire and only wound four coils so with more coils wound, you resistance will increase from the stock resistance. Once you check your resistance and then also check that you don't have a direct short to ground (coil to stator housing.) Splice the coil wire back in to your wiring harness (doesn't matter which direction you splice the wires back since it is A/C.) Mount the stator back on the cover. Install it on the bike and slowly turn the engine over with the kick starter and listen for rubbing. Take the cover back off and inspect your coils to make sure they aren't contacting your flywheel. If everything looks okay, coat your windings in a layer of epoxy. I didn't do this because I intend on winding the last post when I get more wire.

Install your stator and add more lights!

In checked my unregulated voltage directly from the stator at idle and I was pushing 30v. When revved, I made over 100v without a load. I suggest winding 45 wraps per post instead of the 75 I did.
Thunder_Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2014, 07:40 PM   #15
Weldit
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Weldit's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Muskoka Ontario Canada
Oddometer: 336
I have been there done that !
I wound 70 turns of #18 wire on all 10 poles for a total of 700 turns
I figured the more the better - I was wrong ( also on a 600 Honda)
it has a super high voltage with no load on it for sure BUT
the power output is only about 70 watts at 13 volts

there is so much wire that the resistance is too high
so basically you are wasting power as heat in the stator

I ended up taking it out and taping into it at the 5-6 pole
which gave me two 5 pole stators joined in parallel
which was a lot better - could run a 100 watt headlamp and tail etc.

after some research I wound the stator on my new in 2002 xr650r
with only 30 turns per pole for a total of 300 turns on all 10 poles
it was a lot easier to wind that way - the 70 turns was hard to wind

the 300 turn stator would run the same 100 watt headlamp & tail etc.
which proved to me that more was not better !

Hope this helps you out - if you haven't epoxied it it is not to late to fix !
__________________
'11 Dakar 990
Weldit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014