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Old 07-02-2014, 07:46 AM   #1
ldeikis OP
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Freeing up a seized enrichener plunger in a poorly stored carb?

I have a situation here. Four years ago I parked a KLR without prepping it at all. It wasn't meant to be stored, but then life did what it does, and here we are. In the intervening four years, the "gas" reduced to a thick sticky greenish black crusty gooey crap in the carb. It was unlike anything I've had the pleasure of handling. After a lot of physical scraping and cleaning with picks and stuff, and a copious amount of kerosene and spray carb cleaner, I freed up the butterfly and managed to get the jets out. The "choke" on these bikes is actually an enrichener that operates by a little brass or copper slug sliding in and out of a passage in the carb to open an additional fueling passage. It doesn't matter to the problem, but this particular KLR has a KLX choke fitted (no cable, but the plunger part is the same). This little mechanism is stuck fast inside the carb. I can unthread the plastic housing, but the actual copper/brass rod and plunger are seized. I can't soak the whole carb in dip because this thing is plastic, and I don't want to eat up the seals on the butterfly.

I've heard pine sol is worth a try. An overnight soak did nothing, but the whole thing is sitting in an undiluted pine sol bath as I type. Any suggestions? Anyone knows if a heat gun will soften old gas goo vs bake it into inpenetrable permanence? Anyone got any bright ideas on chemicals that wont harm plastic but will dissolve carb misery?

I don't think it matters, but the plunger is seized in the engaged position. This is the choke mechanism we're talking about:

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Old 07-02-2014, 08:13 AM   #2
cantupshift
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Thumbs down Not a fan of pinesol

I'm not a fan of Pinesol since if you leave it in there "a while" it will start to eat away and corrode the carb for a month. The only thing that freed the parts up in the intervening month was sitting in a bucket of carb dip.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:21 AM   #3
ldeikis OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cantupshift View Post
I'm not a fan of Pinesol since if you leave it in there "a while" it will start to eat away and corrode the carb for a month. The only thing that freed the parts up in the intervening month was sitting in a bucket of carb dip.
It's been years since I had one of those buckets-o-dip, but I seem to remember it was a no-no to put plastic in there. It's going to soak in Pine Sol til tomorrow night when I get home, then friday I'll pressure wash it to rinse out any combustibles, blow it dry, and try the heat gun. Then maybe propane. I'd rather not trash the plunger, but obviously the carb body is the expensive part.

Luke
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:38 AM   #4
H96669
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Gas goo..... I had good luck cleaning some of that with plain old Methyl Hydrate/methanol and by a few other names depending on continents.

And just a few days ago again I told my buddy as he was cleaning the metering needle on the old Amal. Goo came right off but was only a couple years old.

Don't know about the specific type of rubber/plastic in the KLR carb but so far I haven't seen Methyl Hydrate eat any kind of rubber/plastics unlike carb/brake cleaners.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:57 AM   #5
cantupshift
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I washed in hot soapy water a stuck carb after the pinesol fiasco a few times. Still didnt get everything out and contaminated the bucket of carb dip.

Carb dip is stil a no-no for the rubber, but it did eventually unstick everything.

Methyl hydrate? Best place to look for something like that?
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:44 AM   #6
travis789
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I like PB blaster. It stinks to hi heaven (like super pungent kerosene) but we used to have good luck with it when I worked at a place that specialized in '60s chevys. Spray a little in a cap and apply it with an eyedropper/wire to get it only where you want it, I'm sure its not good for plastic/rubber (I'm assuming this is in an aluminum casting.) I've also used a heat gun/ propane torch to get jets out of old carbs.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:43 PM   #7
troidus
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What about an ultrasonic cleaner?
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:20 PM   #8
H96669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cantupshift View Post
I washed in hot soapy water a stuck carb after the pinesol fiasco a few times. Still didnt get everything out and contaminated the bucket of carb dip.

Carb dip is stil a no-no for the rubber, but it did eventually unstick everything.

Methyl hydrate? Best place to look for something like that?
Methyl hydrate??? Any hardware store will have that right in the painting/ chemicals section. Great glass cleaner btw and sure good at removing the sticky adhesive from decals or wheel weights. Wear gloves, Methanol isn't that good for you when absorbed through the skin.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:21 PM   #9
Langanobob
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What about an ultrasonic cleaner?
I had a carb float valve completely stuck with some sort of green crap from some sort of chemical reaction with the gas, brass valve and aluminum body (due to neglect and bad storage).

Hate to give any credit to Harbor Freight or even admit I own any of their equipment but an HF ultrasonic cleaner made quick work of the mess and the carb's now back in service without having to buy any new parts.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:30 PM   #10
McAninch35
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Kroil, kinda like WD40 on steroids. I've been having trouble finding it lately though.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:46 PM   #11
k-moe
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What has been left behind by gasoline can be dissolved by gasoline
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:59 AM   #12
emti
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Boil it in hot water, (outside the house) It will soften up the varnish, so you can remove parts and then use compressed air to blow out the jets. emti
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:03 AM   #13
shakeybone
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I had the same problem with my daughters ATV after sitting for a year+ when she could not ride while recovering from surgery. I used penetrating oil, GM heat valve lubricant, you used to be able to get it at any GM dealer but I haven't tried lately since cars don't have heat valves anymore. I soaked the hole where the plunger is and tried to move it every day. After about a week it started to move and after another week I got it to come out. In my case it was attached to a cable and I had to be extremely careful because if the cable broke I would be looking at a new carb.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:40 AM   #14
H96669
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Originally Posted by shakeybone View Post
GM heat riser valve lubricant, you used to be able to get it at any GM dealer but I haven't tried lately since cars don't have heat riser valves anymore. .
A little correction....darn that stuff was good as a penetrating fluid. That's all we used wrenching in Southern Quebec and everything sure got rusty there.

Stinks and so did their carburator cleaner.....Grandpa's/Pa's old tool chest still smells of both 40+ years later.

Old Chevy guy like me.....had to google the heat riser valve lubricant and there you go, looks like they renamed it from a little copy/pasting on a Chevelle forum:

I have an aerosol can of A-C Delco p/n 10-6000 (GM p/n 88900415)
http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_vehcare_shop.htm
(Select "Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor" from the drop-down menu)

The stuff smells the same (and that'd be a very distinctive smell!) as the heat riser lubricant of years ago; I have every expectation it works just as well--but--I haven't actually tried it yet.
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:56 AM   #15
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Good to know I can still get some when I run out.
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