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Old 01-01-2010, 02:57 AM   #16
Cruz
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
Oddometer: 5,900
Yeah, with the excellent fuel economy they get, I would have been happy with an extra 10 litres max on the front tank, 5 litres a side.

You can't sit on the fence post seat for 700 klms anyway.

Ended up fitting the X Tank for 17 1/2 litres total.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:27 PM   #17
Pablo83
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,800
My primary ride is an '01 WR426. I've tried to set it up to ride on the highway as well as riding on technical trails.


Mods:
3.3 gal Clarke tank (biggest available for my bike)
1.2 gal Baja Designs auxillary tank
this gives me a total range for 200 miles.

15/50 gearing with a Rekluse clutch - the 5 speed tranny is not wide enough for me. 15/50 gearing lets me run 82 MPH at 9000 ft elevation. The Rekluse slips the clutch well enough that I can still crawl over technical obsticles. I've also run 15/48 gearing on less technical rides, this setup will get me up to 95 MPH.

Steel valves - the valves came from a WR400, but they are not compatable with the 450. I've heard of doing a steel valve conversion on the 450 for rally bikes, but I don't know where to get the parts.

GPR steering stabilizer - helps a lot on the highway and in sand.

Other stuff: Guts racing seat, big skid plate, tall bars.

I plan to add an oil cooler some day. There is a thread on Thumpertalk where a guy has added one to his 450.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:33 PM   #18
Yellow Pig
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Location: Kalifornia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
Steel valves - the valves came from a WR400, but they are not compatable with the 450. I've heard of doing a steel valve conversion on the 450 for rally bikes, but I don't know where to get the parts.
Kibble White valves:

http://www.blackdiamondvalves.com/Default.htm
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:23 PM   #19
wickit
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: West
Oddometer: 653
Not the best bike for long ADV pavement, but will handle the dirt perfectly. All the garbage about checking valves, new piston, daily oil change, blah blah blah, is just that Garbage. I know several people including myself who have ran, or currently run WR450's from 2003-2006's. Not a single one of them ever replaced a piston, a few checked the valves maybe once twice at the most.
Highest mileage one is a 03 with 15k running stock piston, valves, oil changed every 500-1000 miles. Regularly rode on pavement, and flogged hard it's entire life. Never ran on pavement for more then a couple hours straight, but dirt ridden all day often.
Too much maintenance and screwing with shit only leads to trouble.
Only concern I would have is long hours 4+ hours of constant highway speeds/RPM's with stock gearing. If it can be re-geared (im in that process now) to run at highway speeds 70-80mph at decent RPM I would have little worry.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:42 AM   #20
stevh0 OP
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what is the best cruising Rpm? 7000rpm to high?

try the 15/45 combo for cruising, gave me a topspeed over 100mph on gravel.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:55 AM   #21
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Im thinking of fitting the tenere headlight unit to my wr.

what do you guys think?

Just spoke to Yamaha now to get the figures, they will call me back.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:22 AM   #22
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Prices are in

The bracket, screen, Cowl, Inner and outer inditcator panel and headlight will cost just over $900

I need to now think long and hard if I want to convert to motard or dakar replica.

:/
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:27 AM   #23
leonphelps
TAT/Prudhoe Bay
 
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Waterford CT
Oddometer: 1,049
Wr250f

I agree with above...all this talk about oil/maintenance is rubbish with the WR series. The WR's have great engines that require minimal tweaking. I did the TAT on my WR250F, with a 6.6 Gallon acerbis, Giant Loop bag, with a few mods for gearing and carb/exhaust. I had no problems with the engine and oil use. I changed my oil once in Colorado, and then just kept going til the end.

I had a few bolts work themselves loose and the spokes in the rear wheel loosened up. The fork seals got filled with fine sand, so I was cleaning them with a tear off on the trail to keep them sealed, but it never really stopped the slow drip. The 6.6 gallon tank I thought was too big, all that fuel put alot of weight on the front end and the bike would plow through the sand. The good thing about the tank was it covered the radiators to help with the crashing...... I lost the knob from my trip odometer also.....

The seat SUCKED the first 5 days but I got used to it.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:24 AM   #24
wickit
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Location: West
Oddometer: 653
steve o....as I could not sleep thought I would post a little. I'm running stock gearing 14/48 I believe. I don't have a Tachometer, but will be ordering a Trail Tech Vapor this week. Then I will know what RPM I think would be best. Also going to order up a front 15t and a rear 45t. My goal is to run 80mph as close to the same RPM I currently run 50mph. Anyway running mine where it felt good I was running right around 50mph on pavement. It was not revving too high, had the power to accelarate, was not lugging, would pull any hill, and just ran fine.
The only issue I have is at what RPM will I get the cruise speed I want in 5th. My concern is running the bike for 10-12 hours on pavement at high rpms just to get home or to meet up for a ride. Running dirt roads at 40-50 is nothing, and hopefully I can stay in 3-4th without lugging or revving it.
I put a 3.3 on last year with a Gutts Tall Soft. Should have put a 6.6 on and probably will this year. Rode 700 miles in three days at DV sitting down the entire time due to a completely torn loose (as not attached at all) ACL. Seat was a little soft, but if I was riding normal I think it would be fine.
Oil changes are nothing to do on the trail as I don't change filters until 1000miles or more at times. Depending on the riding I would simply drop the oil as I felt it was needed.
Another thing to remember is that running these bikes at 40+mph they run much cooler then most think. If I was riding slow, close to boiling, lots of clutch use, etc. then an oil change every 100 miles or so maybe less. At those speeds a 40 mile day is super hard. If I was going to run a lot of slab I would cover up half my radiators to keep the heat up unless it was 100 degrees out. Cooler temps cause oil to not break down as fast. Looked at oil coolers, but they don't add enough oil to equal what you shake off. Again with the Vapor I will be able to monitor how hot different riding conditions actually are. Not hard at all to carry a quart or two of oil, and that should allow you to ride 1000 miles over a few days easy.
I will be seriously looking at a Cush Hub also. They are expensive at around 700 bucks laced with a rim, but there have been those with transmission problems. It is not a fact that you have to use a cush hub, but enough have shown up to make it a serious consideration for me.
Well need to get going as I have a five hour road trip ahead going over two passes.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:35 AM   #25
DRjoe
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Location: Sunshine coast qld
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I like the way you think Stevho.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0
Im thinking of fitting the tenere headlight unit to my wr.

what do you guys think?

Just spoke to Yamaha now to get the figures, they will call me back.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:47 AM   #26
stevh0 OP
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Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickit
steve o....as I could not sleep thought I would post a little. I'm running stock gearing 14/48 I believe. I don't have a Tachometer, but will be ordering a Trail Tech Vapor this week. Then I will know what RPM I think would be best. Also going to order up a front 15t and a rear 45t. My goal is to run 80mph as close to the same RPM I currently run 50mph. Anyway running mine where it felt good I was running right around 50mph on pavement. It was not revving too high, had the power to accelarate, was not lugging, would pull any hill, and just ran fine.
The only issue I have is at what RPM will I get the cruise speed I want in 5th. My concern is running the bike for 10-12 hours on pavement at high rpms just to get home or to meet up for a ride. Running dirt roads at 40-50 is nothing, and hopefully I can stay in 3-4th without lugging or revving it.
I put a 3.3 on last year with a Gutts Tall Soft. Should have put a 6.6 on and probably will this year. Rode 700 miles in three days at DV sitting down the entire time due to a completely torn loose (as not attached at all) ACL. Seat was a little soft, but if I was riding normal I think it would be fine.
Oil changes are nothing to do on the trail as I don't change filters until 1000miles or more at times. Depending on the riding I would simply drop the oil as I felt it was needed.
Another thing to remember is that running these bikes at 40+mph they run much cooler then most think. If I was riding slow, close to boiling, lots of clutch use, etc. then an oil change every 100 miles or so maybe less. At those speeds a 40 mile day is super hard. If I was going to run a lot of slab I would cover up half my radiators to keep the heat up unless it was 100 degrees out. Cooler temps cause oil to not break down as fast. Looked at oil coolers, but they don't add enough oil to equal what you shake off. Again with the Vapor I will be able to monitor how hot different riding conditions actually are. Not hard at all to carry a quart or two of oil, and that should allow you to ride 1000 miles over a few days easy.
I will be seriously looking at a Cush Hub also. They are expensive at around 700 bucks laced with a rim, but there have been those with transmission problems. It is not a fact that you have to use a cush hub, but enough have shown up to make it a serious consideration for me.
Well need to get going as I have a five hour road trip ahead going over two passes.
The biggest thing in South Africa is that its big Dual sport country. You hardly find smaller than 650's riding out and most of the enduro bikes stick to enduro trails. Having a plated Enduro bike is like chicken teeth. When I go riding, I usually ride with 800 Bmws and 990 Ktms. On gravel they dont ride slower than 80mph. So i need to gear my bike accordingly to stay with them. I have in the meantime changed my riding group to more techincal riding and virtually no dualsporting.

With the 13/50 combo i run 60mph at 8500rpm. The nice thing about the vapor is I can now monitor my engine temp and rpm's.
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Ex 1150GS, 650R, Ex 950SE, Ex 950ADV
Ex SM610, FS570, WR450, Africa Twin(s)
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:48 AM   #27
stevh0 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
I like the way you think Stevho.
900$ give or take a few. just need the 6.6 and I should be set. Itll be pretty unique.
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Ex 1150GS, 650R, Ex 950SE, Ex 950ADV
Ex SM610, FS570, WR450, Africa Twin(s)
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:54 AM   #28
DRjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0
900$ give or take a few. just need the 6.6 and I should be set. Itll be pretty unique.
you'll probably be able to pick one up of a dead bike for a lot less than that.
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:09 AM   #29
stevh0 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
you'll probably be able to pick one up of a dead bike for a lot less than that.
They were just released in south africa in august... doubtful to pick it up used hey.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:19 PM   #30
wickit
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Location: West
Oddometer: 653
SteveO......You are totally correct and the WR is not the best ADV bike by far. I think it can be made into a decent off road ADV bike, as long as there is not long miles of fast dirt or pavement. I am dumping/loosing money into/on the WR because I can not get a 800 or 950se. And it won't do what I need the way it is set up. Hopefully next year for a real ADV bike.
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AA stands for Alaskan Amber right?
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