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Old 01-26-2010, 12:10 AM   #46
stevh0 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickit
Thanks for the info...started to put the vapor on tonight. I have it mounted with the plastic clamp, but will move it down to replace the stock odo after I do some gearing tests. How the hell did you get that cheap screw to thread into your caliper? No way in hell will it work, Trying to find some info on a metric tap.
I did not install the Vapor myself. Ill have to look into the caliper. If you are having trouble, ill run down and check out the caliper mount for you.
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:23 PM   #47
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6.6 gal tank in flea market.......this tank will get you there and BACK..

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php ?t=545378
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:29 PM   #48
Colebatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trackhead
Why are people paying money to put mud clogging, low clearance fenders on dirt bikes? It seems counter intuitive.
As mentioned before, less rock thru radiator risk yes, but perhaps the main reason is cooling ... you lose up to 50% of your effective cooling with the airflow blocked by by a high fender (most rally bikes have a large single radiator going all the way across)... the fender covers a third of your radiator surface area, and adds so much turbulence to the remaining airflow hitting your radiator that it significantly reduces cooling on the remaining 2/3 of your radiator.

Additionally, in rallys these bikes spend a fair bit of time around 75 - 100 mph ... and the low fender is significantly more aerodynamically stable and efficient than a high fender. At those speeds its a significant difference.

So in answer to your question, there are 3 good reasons to use low fenders on dirt bikes, and only 1 reason not to.

Even when it is muddy (light mud) a low fender is better at keeping mud spray off your headlight and goggles as well.

As rallys tend to be held on fast dirt gravel roads, sand etc, there are plenty of reasons to use a low fender.

This is how much cooling you can get with a low fender:


And this is how much gets cut off with a high fender:


And this is what can happen with your high fender cause you dont get enough cooling:
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:08 AM   #49
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does anybody know how to adjust the headlight beam on the 07-09 WR headlight cowls? The older model was adjusted via bolts on the side.
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:57 PM   #50
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Here are a couple of pictures of my 2007 WR450 with the Clarke 3.6 gallon gas tank.

The bike weighs about 260 pounds empty, and made 44hp with stock exhaust.

I use this bike for dualsporting in Michigan - single track trails, ORV, snowmobile trails, gravel roads, and pavement connectors. We typically do 200 mile day rides from base camp, and encounter hill climbs, river crossings, sand whoops, etc. It is hard to find a bike to cover every adventure. My riding buddies have DRZ's, Husky TE610, WR426, KTM300EXC, and CRF450x.





I have done 150 miles before even having to flip to reserve fuel.
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:35 AM   #51
kxb44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxrider11
Here are a couple of pictures of my 2007 WR450 with the Clarke 3.6 gallon gas tank.

The bike weighs about 260 pounds empty, and made 44hp with stock exhaust.

I use this bike for dualsporting in Michigan - single track trails, ORV, snowmobile trails, gravel roads, and pavement connectors. We typically do 200 mile day rides from base camp, and encounter hill climbs, river crossings, sand whoops, etc. It is hard to find a bike to cover every adventure. My riding buddies have DRZ's, Husky TE610, WR426, KTM300EXC, and CRF450x.





I have done 150 miles before even having to flip to reserve fuel.
I just picked up a leftover 08 that I'm looking to set up the same way. What handguards are those?
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:38 AM   #52
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:57 AM   #53
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My '07 set up for street/dual sporting I run a 13-50 sprockets. Can do most trails in 2nd and run the highway at 70+ comfortably.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:37 AM   #54
wickit
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We will see as I finally have my Vapor mounted up and working. I will post up what I end up with using both the Vapor and GPS. Will be swapping in some different sprockets. Currently I do know this (gps)...my 05 will not hit the limiter on a dirt road and tops out in the mid 80's (MPH) depending on surface. On pavement it hits 95 at the limiter. For me at the correct RPM (by feel) mine runs low 50's. I would not run it at 70 any contstant distance as the RPM's are too high. 05 running 14-50.

Also when I am talking distance I am talking anything over five-10 miles at a time. A mile here and there is nothing and the bike is not at the same RPM usually on those short trips. I'm looking for the long haul longevity not just a year or two and a few hundred miles. I want this bike to last years without continual rebuilds or maintenance. I also want it to last thousands of miles so it can't be flogged continually for long stretches of time or miles or any bike would just wear out.
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:46 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoBoss
My '07 set up for street/dual sporting I run a 13-50 sprockets. Can do most trails in 2nd and run the highway at 70+ comfortably.
I think 13/50 is stock gearing for the 07 and up WR's. Stock gearing for the earlier 450's was 14/50.

I run 15/50 gearing, and my top speed is about 100mph. Still plenty of grunt for single track trails too.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:52 PM   #56
wickit
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GOD I LOVE RIDING THIS BIKE!!!!!! She is a one fun bitch to ride and always satisfies. So first ride since last fall. Last years first ride resulted in a new ACL. So here the results of the Vapor for 5th gear as that is all I am worried about.

05 WR450 14/50 Sprockets

1. It was dead nuts on both speed and RPM. Speed was compared to GPS speeds within .5mph, and hit the limiter within 200rpm.

2. 6000rpm = 50mph

3. 7000rpm = 60mph

4. 9000rpm = 80mph


Goal is 70mph at 6000rpm. No more then 6500, and would not run constant 7000 for long distance all day.

Anything less then 5800rpm I'm getting some chain jump and noise. 6000 it goes away and is right where the power and RPM feel perfect.

So new sprockets info coming shortly. I don't know if I can get to where I want it to with sprockets.


Temperature 40 or so degrees, and while running at test speeds engine was 111 degrees.
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AA stands for Alaskan Amber right?

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Old 02-10-2010, 06:17 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickit
Thanks for the info...started to put the vapor on tonight. I have it mounted with the plastic clamp, but will move it down to replace the stock odo after I do some gearing tests. How the hell did you get that cheap screw to thread into your caliper? No way in hell will it work, Trying to find some info on a metric tap.
I added one to my YZ. TrailTech instructions are as follows:

"With the sensor held down firmly in the correct position on the caliper, insert an ink pen through the mounting hole on the sensor to mark for the drill location. Remove the sensor and drill a 1/8 hole through caliper mount. Use
a sharp drill bit! Attach the sensor to the caliper mount with the screw provided. This is a selftapping screw - the hole size must be 1/8."

Worked just fine for me. Problems came later - use the billet mount - brake line caught on a jump. Unit does not like water - mine started fogging up from heavy rain and eventually died.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:59 AM   #58
stevh0 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickit
GOD I LOVE RIDING THIS BIKE!!!!!! She is a one fun bitch to ride and always satisfies. So first ride since last fall. Last years first ride resulted in a new ACL. So here the results of the Vapor for 5th gear as that is all I am worried about.

05 WR450 14/50 Sprockets

1. It was dead nuts on both speed and RPM. Speed was compared to GPS speeds within .5mph, and hit the limiter within 200rpm.

2. 6000rpm = 50mph

3. 7000rpm = 60mph

4. 9000rpm = 80mph


Goal is 70mph at 6000rpm. No more then 6500, and would not run constant 7000 for long distance all day.

Anything less then 5800rpm I'm getting some chain jump and noise. 6000 it goes away and is right where the power and RPM feel perfect.

So new sprockets info coming shortly. I don't know if I can get to where I want it to with sprockets.


Temperature 40 or so degrees, and while running at test speeds engine was 111 degrees.
Im running 15/39 on the motard and 8000rpm is about 110mph. I get a mean headshake around 125mph.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:53 PM   #59
LILBIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickit

Anything less then 5800rpm I'm getting some chain jump and noise. 6000 it goes away and is right where the power and RPM feel perfect.

So new sprockets info coming shortly. I don't know if I can get to where I want it to with sprockets.
Make sure your jetting is good at that rpm. A little lean and the engine will chug worse and not be happy. That'll make chain slap. Adding a guide or extra pad on the top of the swingarm helps a bunch.

Might as well go to a 15t CS. Much better wear. Look at the site -gearing commander - to see exactly what it'll take with out all the math.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:05 PM   #60
wickit
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Yes will start with a 15 up front, then a 47 out back. Just bought a 6.6 so as always cash leaves too fast. I don't know about jetting it to avoid chain slap at lower rpms. It only seems to have jump on flat ground just cruising. Any hill or pull and it is not there at all. After a 47 out back I should have a good idea of where to finish up with. Just did not want to have 50.00 sprockets collecting dust. Not suprised at all if I don't end up with a 45 or 43 out back. Will check out that page to see what it comes up with.

Well checked out the page and if I ead it right it claimed over 100mph at 6k with 15/47. WTF????? Either I did something wrong or their math is fantasy land. Maybe someone else could run the numbers on a 04 WR450 and see what they come up with. No way in hell that bike is going 100mph + in 5th at 6k regardless of gearing as it would not have the power.
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AA stands for Alaskan Amber right?

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