WR250R Data, Specs and How-to's

[MoBill]

All right folks, here's a reference thread for the WR250R. Links to good info both on the web and ADV's own original WR250R mega thread.

I'll set some placeholders first to segregate the data. And then as it's collected I'll go back and edit as we go.

WR250R Forum: http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/

WR Dual Sport Website: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/

ADV Rider's own WR250R Mega Thread: New WR250R - 1st impression, plus pics of her "naked"!!

Rick Ramsey's site: http://rickramsey.net/WR250R.htm

[MoBill]

General Info, Specs, etc here

Oil Change: Drain Plug Torque: 14 ft/lbs (168 inch pounds) also recommendations out there to hand tight & add 1/4 turn (12mm) (1.48 qt w/filter)

Oil Filter Housing Torque: 7.2 ft/lbs (86.4 inch lbs)

Front Sprocket Torque: 69 ft/lb (95 Nm)

Triple Clamp Bolts: Upper Bracket Pinch Bolts: 23Nm/17ft lb, Lower Bracket Pinch Bolts: 20Nm/14ft lb

Rear Axle Torque: 90 ft-lbs

Rear Sprocket Nuts = 25 ft. lbs

Front/Rear Axle Nut Sizes: 22 Front/27 Rear.

Lower fork pinch bolts- 14 ft lbs

Upper fork pinch bolts- 17 ft lbs.

[MoBill]

Maintenance:



Swing Arm: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...-swingarmmaint

Spark plug removal: http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/ma...lug-t1443.html

Grease Wheel Bearings: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...wheel-bearings

Chain Guide, Sprocket, Etc: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12525 (see next page for quoted post if desired)

Alternative Air Filter:

Originally Posted by copa mundial

I'm using NoToil filter.
I don't think the filter flows any better really, I just went with that because I really prefer their oil + cleaner setup. It's much easier to deal with, so that means I actually do it more often.
You can use the NoToil products w/ any filter, but the color of the stock filter makes it more difficult to verify that it's thoroughly oiled.

NoToil PN 180-46

Oil Drain Plug Size: 12mm/1.5 20mm long

Sprocket source:

Originally Posted by ramz

I'm now using one of these (47):

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/8570...---yamaha.html

Requires tapered bolts, which they sell also:

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3822...xoff-road.html

Originally Posted by scottmac

http://www.renthal.com/File/fit_my_b...etype=Off Road

2007 WRF and YZF chainwheels will fit the WRR/X, You'll need to order a set of tapered head sprocket bolts for the WRF/YZF as well when you make the swap.

The WRR stock sprocket bolts have a flat head and need to be replaced.

Originally Posted by Chadx

Used a 112 link Primary Drive 520 X-ring chain from Rocky Mountain (many other retailers carry them). I got the X-ring rather than the O-ring. The X-ring had a bit higher tensile strength rating and, they say, a bit better sealing ring than the O-ring. In the drop down menu, you select the number of links. Once you add that to your cart, you can order a master link from the same drop down menu.

By the way, 112 link chain (with the 13/48T) even fit the Pirelli MT43 tire, but it was close. A 110 link would be OK with a stock tire height, but might be tight or not possible with a D606 or MT43.

Originally Posted by Chadx

I've been running the Primary Drive brand 13/48 and chain for the last year (maybe 8,000 miles) and am very happy with them. Very little wear on my guard. Front sprocket is just starting to show signs of wear. Rear is in great shape. Chain seems good so far though may be starting to stretch a little faster now (or I may just be racking up more miles faster). I'm keeping my eye on things.

Chain tightening:

Originally Posted by skierd

...

The revised factory procedure has worked fine for me since day 1. Bike on the side stand, push up on the mid-point of the chain along the underside of the swingarm. Keep about a 30mm gap, in my case 1.5 fingers, between the chain and the swingarm when you are pushing up. Oddly enough, having checked R²'s chain personally both times I've been in her presence, our chain procedures lead to nearly identical tension. HF's method is obviously more precise and accurate, but the last thing I want to do before I ride to work or get rolling on my 5th or 15th day on the trail is spend an hour checking chain tension.


If you're getting lots of noise and the chain is lubed something is funky. My marks, both stock and the GYTR blocks I have now, are dead equal.

If tension is changing when you tighten down the axle, you aren't adjusting the chain with the axle snug against the adjusters or you're moving it away when you tighten it. Another reason to do it on the ground, that way the wheel and therefore axle stay put.

[MoBill]

Troubleshooting





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Enduro Mode:

Originally Posted by Bonnie Abbzug

First you have to change from "Basic Mode" to "Measurement Mode" With the Odometer selected, push the "select 1" button and the "select 2" button together for at least 2 seconds.

Originally Posted by Bonnie Abbzug

Measurement Mode (for calibrating the distance-compensation tripmeter's reading).

To increase the reading, push the "select 1" button. To decrease the reading, push the "select 2" button. Pushing and holding either button will increase or decrease the reading continuously until the button is released.

Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble

Once you get into measurement mode you need to start the stop watch for the
measurement mode to work. Push the reset button to start the stopwatch. Now you can re-set the odometer in tenths by using the select 1 and select 2 buttons.

You need to stop the stopwatch BEFORE shutting off the motor otherwise you will lose the odometer information. To stop the stop watch push select 1 and select 2 together quickly. Now everything is saved.

Once you start the motor be sure to press select 1 and select 2 together quickly to re-start the stopwatch.

To reset the odometer to zero either do it manually by using the select 1 or select 2 buttons or go back to basic mode and restart the measurement mode.

[MoBill]

Mods and parts supply

D606s: 120/90-18 and 90/90-21s.

Mitas I would get (and it's available in the US) is
100/100-18 M/C 59M C-16 TT MI
SKU: 2000026452101

REAR 110/100-18 C-16 TT MI $62.00
http://www.mitasmx.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=29

FRONT 90/90-21 C-17 TT MI $65.00
http://www.mitasmx.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=31

FRONT 80/100-21 C-17 TT MI $60.00
http://www.mitasmx.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=32
Mitas Rear Tire: C-16 Front Tire: C-17

Excella Tire Option: http://www.amstires.com/excella/ Front: OF213, 80/100-21 M/C 51R Rear: OF213, 120/90-18 M/C 65M

Originally Posted by bpg

You can get a lot knobbier than a 606 with a Kenda K760 Trak Master II - especially important in the muck...

If you're not hung up on the DOT rating (and there's no really good reason to be so...), the Dunlop D952 is like a Trak Master in that it owns the 606 in the mud, and works very well on road. 606 will outlast both, while also costing more and giving less traction that whole time...

Pirelli MT43 works a lot better in dry or slimy rocks and roots than either the Kenda, 952, or the 606. My current rear MT43 has almost 3K miles and still grips like velcro off road. It's a little worse than the 606 in mud, moreso when compared to the Trak Master and 952.

There are lots of other tires to try as well: for instance, the Maxxis Desert IT seems to always get good reviews from dual sporters, Bridgestone ED77/78 Desert seems to be very tough, some like it more than the Maxxis...

--------------------------------------------------
I ordered the 110 link smart chain...10,000 pound strength and 13/46 gearing from Krause

Subsequently just went with Primary Drive brand from Rocky Mountain ATV, same longevity, 1/2 the price...AND I'm 112 link, 13/47 now.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Link to Lowering the R2 info: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...15-lowering-r2

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UK Ventura rack--hangs off the back:
http://www.ventura-bike.co.uk/fitmen...250x_2008.aspx


Wolfman racks review:
http://www.wrrdualsport.com/reviews-...s/116-brmrack2

----------------------------------------
Programmers:
Attitude fuel programmer http://www.tunewithattitude.com/products.php?pr=37

FMF Programming talk

Originally Posted by Magestyk

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/list/384/0
I then decided to give it a try when I found this thread. These guys were right, It changes the bike. They have a nice list of numbers and Input/review on how it feels/behaves.
Very informative.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/thr...nd-tuning-tips

I have the FMF Q4 pipe, Powerbomb and FMF Programmer with the intake crap taken off. I have the following setting that I ride with ALL the time
3, 5.5, .5, 8, 4, 4.5 <----it's Krabil's setting that works great on my bike too. Seem's like his settings is the standard to a few. Thanks, Bro.

For offroad I sometimes change it to this
3, 6, 3, .5, .5, .5
I'm telling ya man, this setting is Snappy.

More FMF Programming talk AND an excellent explanation from skierd:

Originally Posted by trav72

On mine
3
5
.5
8
4
4

Originally Posted by skierd

Yes. The first three numbers are essentially the 'jetting', or more accurately the jetting changes, for the fuel injector. The first number is fuel added over the stock base map (pilot jet). The second number is fuel added at partial throttle (needle jet and clip setting). The third number is fuel added at WOT (main jet).

The fourth number is used to adjust when in the RPM range the programmer takes over (8 is the highest number, meaning it takes over at about 2500rpm, giving up a clean lean idle along with the fuel we need above it since we don't lug our bikes that low). The fifth and sixth settings are the delay for adding fuel at the partial and WO throttle settings. Think of them as accelerator pumps to an extent, fine tuning these will increase ridability and smoothness of the power band at throttle changes but probably not affect power. They can also combat a lean condition at throttle tip-in if its a problem, I don't know if our bikes do that or not but some bikes (or cars or any other internal combustion engine) do.

With the airbox opened up and a free flow exhaust, we need more fuel at low to mid throttle openings but don't need it at WOT as the bike tends to run rich even modded when wide open, hence the settings you usually see of 3 5 0.5 8 x x (everyone seems to like different settings for the last two, I ran 0.5 on both, others run 4, 8, 1 etc).

Originally Posted by Crawdaddy

I remapped the FMF Fuel Programmer Friday night and took the WR"290"R for a local ~200 mile spin yesterday.....

I should've checked on the programer settings when I got it back from the shop after installing the Athena kit.....looks lke they fiddled with the settings.......and punted.......they made no sense.......

I set it to the Dobeck/FMF guidelines for 290cc with exhaust and airbox modification:

Green 5, Yellow 4, Red 4, Green/Blue 0.5, Yellow/Blue 3, Red/Blue 4.

It ran much stronger than it did after the first "290" ride two weeks earlier......that said, I'm still concerned that I may be a bit lean on fuel delivery after talking to Dobeck Performance (they make the fuel programmer for FMF).....the older programmers like mine are not set up with the range to handle the 290 kit but the newer models do have the capacity (the settings above are for FMF programmers built after Sept 2010)......so I'm sending my fuel programmer to Montana (Dobeck) when I return from the Flying Monkey Rally in Utah ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766096 ) .......they'll update the firmware which will allow the programmer to squirt a tad more fuel....I had planned on sending it to Montana tomorrow but I don't want to run the risk of not having it returned by Wed......I was was told it'll work fine short term......it's just not "optimum" without the new firmware....

Many thanks to MtnTrals for flagging the issue in a PM and putting me in touch with Dobeck - Thanks again Jim

Brtittania Composites Dual Sport Fairing, with link to how-to: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post13624419

Fat Bar Comments (Pro Taper or GYTR Top Clamps: For the WR250R, the right lower clamp, you need a shorter bolt. The lowers normally come with I believe 100mm bolts, but the key/steering lock gets in the way. For the Pro Taper Tusk Big Bar Clamp, r/s lower clamp needs either 75mm or 80mm.

VW Sandman Case Saver Kit: https://sites.google.com/site/sandma...case-saver-kit

AIS Removal: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...take/72-aisrem

(requires AIS Cover) AIS cover: WRRDualSport PayPal Link: https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/we...4b2728ea935a7c


Flapper: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui.../68-flapperrem

Exup Removal: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-gui...84-exupremoval

See Rick Ramsey site if you keep the stock exhaust and need to keep the valve open: http://www.rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm#exup (not needed if you replace the exhaust)

Parts needed if you eliminate the Exup--to keep the check engine light from coming on: Bought the Exup eliminator from Graves Motorsports: http://www.2wheelpros.com/graves-mot...r-2353517.html

Rockymountainatv.com Primary Drive Sprockets (Primary Drive is their in house brand of steel):
(14/52 is another option, reduce countersprocket/chain wear?)
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=2192

Need bolts too:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=9503

Alternative Site for sprockets: 14/50? Looks like similar ratio to 13/46:
http://www.jtsprockets.com/52.0.html...sel_uid=6043&p

Bash3r's install videos!!

Originally Posted by bash3r

Thought I'd add my installation howto/videos:

New Bars/HDB Install: http://www.basherdesigns.com/2010/01...bars-and-more/

3CS Install: http://www.basherdesigns.com/2009/12...-installation/

12oclocklabs Install: http://www.basherdesigns.com/2010/01...install-video/

LED Turn Signals Install: http://www.basherdesigns.com/2010/03...nals-4-for-20/

Suspension upgrades:

Go Race: 540-392-0696, Blackburg, VA and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/#!/gorace.suspension

Originally Posted by GSBS

RaceTech is probably good too, but I haven't dealt with them. I can guarantee you won't be sorry if you use Travis at GoRace.

Racetech: http://www.racetech.com/page/id/80 Rosamond, CA 951.279.6655


WER Suspension: http://www.werproducts.net/Suspension-Service.html Great Meadows, NJ (908) 637-6385

Originally Posted by thumpididump

I had a WR250 rear shock rebuilt by WER Suspension in NJ. They did a terrific job and it ran me $200. Highly recommended.

[MoBill]

WR250R Mega thread references:

Originally Posted by MiXu

Here's the table of contents of my data collection:

HF Method: Page 394, Post 5910: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...29337&page=394

[OKDQ]

Here is a piece of information I need and it might be nice to have on this thread. I'm wanting to order the motion pro combo tire spoon axle wrenchs, but I can't find the front and rear axle size in the owners manual. Anyone have the front & rear axle nut sizes handy? It's for the R if that makes a difference.

[jimrobinette]

22 Front/27 Rear.

Originally Posted by OKDQ

Here is a piece of information I need and it might be nice to have on this thread. I'm wanting to order the motion pro combo tire spoon axle wrenchs, but I can't find the front and rear axle size in the owners manual. Anyone have the front & rear axle nut sizes handy? It's for the R if that makes a difference.

[MoBill]

Engine removal comment from Bake:

Originally Posted by Bake

I'm working on my second engine tear down so far with this model. I highly recommend removing the forward steel subframe and allow the engine to pivot forward and down on it's swingarm mount. Support it in that position from below. It's clearly the easiest way to work on the top end or remove the cylinder, etc.
I'd like to thank those that have endorsed my product. Bill and I work very hard to support the WR and KLX 250's. We LOVE the little bikes! Heck, we started making the KLX parts because we ride them and there wasn't a lot to choose from.
Bake

Originally Posted by Machtig

Thanks Bake, I'm discovering that now about the cradle. I can't get the head off as it sits so I'm going to take your suggestion and remove the lower cradle so I can pivot the engine down.

[skierd]

I know its easy, but I wrote up a spark plug removal on the WR forum.

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/ma...plug-t1443.htm

[MoBill]

Plastics part numbers from Krabill:

Blue-
Front fender - 3D7-21511-00-00
Rear fender - 3D7-21611-00-00
Headlight cover - 32D-84330-00-00


White-
Front fender - 3D7-21511-10-00
Rear fender - 3D7-21611-10-00
Headlight cover - 32D-84330-10-00

Black-
Front fender - 3D7-21511-20-00
Rear fender - 3D7-21611-20-00
Headlight cover - 32D-84330-20-00

[MoBill]

Originally Posted by eakins

here's a repost of those 3 gearing charts:

F _____R _____ Ratio _____Ratio with D606 assuming 5% increase

14 _____ 46_____ 3.286_____ 3.115
13 _____43 _____3.308 _____3.136
14 _____47 _____3.357 _____ 3.183
13 _____44 _____3.385 _____3.209
14 _____48 _____3.429 _____ 3.250
13 _____45 _____ 3.462 _____3.282
13 _____46 _____3.538 _____ 3.354
12 _____43 _____ 3.583 _____3.397
13 _____47 _____3.615 _____3.427
12 _____44 _____ 3.667 _____3.476
13 _____48 _____3.692 _____ 3.500
12 _____45 _____3.750 _____3.555
13 _____49 _____3.769 _____ 3.573
12 _____46 _____3.833 _____3.634
12 _____47 _____3.917 _____3.713
12 _____48 _____4.000 _____3.792

.

[eakins]

good idea.
the wrr thread is a growing beast like the dr thread.

[MoBill]

Thanks, I wasn't gonna do this at first, but there are some references in there I'd like to have at hand on ADV. If you see something, post it here and I'll take some of the deals and move 'em into the first posts.

[Entrepre-neer]

Thanks for taking time to make the Table of Contents!