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Old 03-05-2014, 07:45 PM   #1561
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Where's the pics

Those of us who can't ride live vicariously through those who can
Way too wet out for cameras,Im going to get set up with smugmug soon though for some pics.
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:04 PM   #1562
GlennR
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Have any of you guys plated an XCW 300 in North Carolina? I'm wondering if it would be hard to do here.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:01 AM   #1563
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
Have any of you guys plated an XCW 300 in North Carolina? I'm wondering if it would be hard to do here.
You'll probably get the best info (and most accurate) from Dragons Lair regional section
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:03 PM   #1564
godwinmt
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Seymour, IN
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Wiring issues...bad stator?

Alright guys, the 300's got me stumped at the moment...

'07 XC with a Trailtech X2 halogen installed...noticed the other day that the headlight had stopped working. Checked the bulbs, all appeared fine, hooked it up to the trials bike, and the lights all work like they should....so onto the bike...

Checked for voltage at the connector on the bike. I'm getting ~9V at idle at each the high/low beam hot pins when checked against the ground pin on the connector. Rev the bike and it goes up to ~13.5v or so and plateaus, so the voltage regulator is doing its job. Crimped the female connectors down a little bit to make sure a loose connection wasn't to blame, and no change, lights still don't work.

Removed/cleaned the ground all up, and found 1 ground wire that was almost severed. Fixed that, put it all back together, and no change.

Depinned the 4 pin connector and hooked the light from the trials bike up (smaller with easier pins to access), and I get nothing on that light. Checked to see if there was any current flowing, and I get zilch outside of trace milliamps that are within the error of the multimeter.

Question I have...what would cause this? A bad stator? Bad voltage regulator? I'm at a complete loss at this point

Thanks,
-M
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:36 PM   #1565
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Originally Posted by godwinmt View Post
Alright guys, the 300's got me stumped at the moment...

'07 XC with a Trailtech X2 halogen installed...noticed the other day that the headlight had stopped working. Checked the bulbs, all appeared fine, hooked it up to the trials bike, and the lights all work like they should....so onto the bike...

Checked for voltage at the connector on the bike. I'm getting ~9V at idle at each the high/low beam hot pins when checked against the ground pin on the connector. Rev the bike and it goes up to ~13.5v or so and plateaus, so the voltage regulator is doing its job. Crimped the female connectors down a little bit to make sure a loose connection wasn't to blame, and no change, lights still don't work.

Removed/cleaned the ground all up, and found 1 ground wire that was almost severed. Fixed that, put it all back together, and no change.

Depinned the 4 pin connector and hooked the light from the trials bike up (smaller with easier pins to access), and I get nothing on that light. Checked to see if there was any current flowing, and I get zilch outside of trace milliamps that are within the error of the multimeter.

Question I have...what would cause this? A bad stator? Bad voltage regulator? I'm at a complete loss at this point

Thanks,
-M
With the way the regulator connects into the charging/lighting system you're not able to remove it and still test the lights even unregulated because the stator ground is established via the regulator through the connection to the brown (gnd) wire. If you remove the regulator out of the system, the stator looses it's ground. Unlike say a Honda where the reg just hangs off the stator outputs in parallel dumping excess voltage to ground.

KTM stators almost seem like black magic sometimes. I can't tell you how many posts I've read where everything outwardly appears normal but they don't work, guys will tell the OP change the stator and surprisingly it fixes the problem.

I've not heard of a regulators going bad, they seem to be pretty reliable but I've sure heard of the stators going out. Not much help I know. There's an electrical section on KTMT that's pretty informative.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:35 PM   #1566
godwinmt
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Thanks for the suggestions Chris. I ended up hunting through all the wiring figuring if there was one break, there might be an intermittent break somewhere else. Found a half assed solder joint by a previous owner. Wire had gotten brittle from getting it too hot, and eventually one of the wires disintegrated.. Got that fixed, and it's as good as new! Now to wait for the rekluse to show up :-)
-M
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:03 AM   #1567
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godwinmt View Post
Thanks for the suggestions Chris. I ended up hunting through all the wiring figuring if there was one break, there might be an intermittent break somewhere else. Found a half assed solder joint by a previous owner. Wire had gotten brittle from getting it too hot, and eventually one of the wires disintegrated.. Got that fixed, and it's as good as new! Now to wait for the rekluse to show up :-)
-M
Great news!
Wiring products sells these little metal crimps, they're about 3/8" long and all metal. If you can, replace any solder joints with something similar (not the cheap crimps sold at the AP store, those are junk). Solder connections typically wick the solder up the wire in both directions making a section non flexible and prone to breakage. Just use a layer of heat shrink over the crimp connection. This practice is common in Hondas when they want to make one wire into 2, they bury it inside the harness though.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:18 AM   #1568
godwinmt
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Yeah, I've used those in the past, they work very well (even used one to temporarily hold a choke cable together on an old 1st gen Interceptor for a bit).

Solder can work well if whoever is doing it has some practice and isn't inept...The one thing I've found that helps is to not get the connection too hot when making it, and to use correctly sized heatshrink over the entire connection. Since heatshrink has a bit of stiffness to it, it will help serve as a bit of strain relief over the joint and help hold it together when things start to flex a bit.

That's what I really don't understand is why the original installer took the time to solder the connections, but covered them up halfass with electrical tape all it does is make a sticky mess when it fails a year down the road for whoever has to fix it!
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:04 AM   #1569
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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I do use solder too sometimes, same precautions, I bought 3 packs of those little crimps so they're on hand for various things including weird repairs like you mentioned. I hear ya on the elec tape, I hate crappy wiring jobs because someone always ends up going back in a making a repair and stuff like the lights just quit working

Quote:
Originally Posted by godwinmt View Post
Yeah, I've used those in the past, they work very well (even used one to temporarily hold a choke cable together on an old 1st gen Interceptor for a bit).

Solder can work well if whoever is doing it has some practice and isn't inept...The one thing I've found that helps is to not get the connection too hot when making it, and to use correctly sized heatshrink over the entire connection. Since heatshrink has a bit of stiffness to it, it will help serve as a bit of strain relief over the joint and help hold it together when things start to flex a bit.

That's what I really don't understand is why the original installer took the time to solder the connections, but covered them up halfass with electrical tape all it does is make a sticky mess when it fails a year down the road for whoever has to fix it!
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:27 PM   #1570
hornet8118
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New guy checking in here. i just picked up a a pair of 06 XC-W's. One is a 300 and the other is a 250. I had a few questions on comparing the two bikes. Between this long god awful winter, my full time job and my small side business i just cant seem to find the time to get out and ride these things. As crazy as it sounds i have not even had a chance to ride the bikes at all yet. I was lucky enough to purchase the bikes off of a fellow club member who is an A level enduro rider so needless to say they are well equipped with all of the good bolt on's and very well maintained. Needless to say i'm getting very impatient to ride them.

My questions are the power delivery difference between the two machines. The machines are nearly identical. My questions are about the ignitions and flywheels. Looking through the parts manuals i got with the bikes it seems the CDI's are different. The 250 comes with a 2K-2 and the 300 comes with a 2K-3. I believe i read some where the 2K-3 is a heavier flywheel and stator?
And the obvious differences would be the cylinder and pistons. Does the 250 have a more aggressive ignition curve or map verses the 300 or vice versa? Does the 250 need to be ridden more aggressive than the 300? I have all three power valve springs with the bikes and have been researching the adjustment procedures and settings so i cant wait to get out there and set these things up.

These are my 1st KTM products so i've been doing a ton of research. i'm coming off of a very nicely set-up and tuned KDX 220 for harescramble/enduro use. I'm hoping the power jump isn't to big. I'm pretty much a weekend warrior and don't get nearly as much seat time in as i would like to.

I know everyone has there opinions about different bike manufactures. I'm also curious to your opinions from coming off of a Japanese bike to a European bike. Do you think the quality is better equal or not as good? i know all bikes seem to have there issues or shortcomings that can be improved upon. I believe that you really cant go wrong with any of the big manufacturers out there but you need to make sure the bike you are purchasing needs to meet your intended riding purpose. Thanks for any input!!

Steve
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Old 03-14-2014, 06:07 AM   #1571
godwinmt
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Location: Seymour, IN
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Hey Steve, welcome to the orange crowd!

My personal take is yes, you really cannot go wrong with any of the major manufacturers as far as quality goes. The big thing is finding the bike that was designed around your riding style. Each manufacturer builds their bikes with a little different design philosophy setup for their test riders, and each tackles obstacles a little differently...not better or worse, just differently. In having ridden bikes from each of the 'Big 4', I have found that I like how the KTMs ride compared to the others (which is why I own one), but to liken the chassis to something, it would come closest to the Yamahas I've ridden.

I will say that the biggest thing that affects the power delivery on my 300 has been by far getting the carb finally setup right. Checking the float height (more then likely needing to lower it) made a huge difference in how it behaves part throttle for the technical stuff. They are also notoriously a tad rich up top as well, and you will likely need to go down a size on your main jet.

-M
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:04 PM   #1572
zig06
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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Ride them before wrenching

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornet8118 View Post
New guy checking in here. i just picked up a a pair of 06 XC-W's. One is a 300 and the other is a 250. I had a few questions on comparing the two bikes. Between this long god awful winter, my full time job and my small side business i just cant seem to find the time to get out and ride these things. As crazy as it sounds i have not even had a chance to ride the bikes at all yet. I was lucky enough to purchase the bikes off of a fellow club member who is an A level enduro rider so needless to say they are well equipped with all of the good bolt on's and very well maintained. Needless to say i'm getting very impatient to ride them.

My questions are the power delivery difference between the two machines. The machines are nearly identical. My questions are about the ignitions and flywheels. Looking through the parts manuals i got with the bikes it seems the CDI's are different. The 250 comes with a 2K-2 and the 300 comes with a 2K-3. I believe i read some where the 2K-3 is a heavier flywheel and stator?
And the obvious differences would be the cylinder and pistons. Does the 250 have a more aggressive ignition curve or map verses the 300 or vice versa? Does the 250 need to be ridden more aggressive than the 300? I have all three power valve springs with the bikes and have been researching the adjustment procedures and settings so i cant wait to get out there and set these things up.

These are my 1st KTM products so i've been doing a ton of research. i'm coming off of a very nicely set-up and tuned KDX 220 for harescramble/enduro use. I'm hoping the power jump isn't to big. I'm pretty much a weekend warrior and don't get nearly as much seat time in as i would like to.

I know everyone has there opinions about different bike manufactures. I'm also curious to your opinions from coming off of a Japanese bike to a European bike. Do you think the quality is better equal or not as good? i know all bikes seem to have there issues or shortcomings that can be improved upon. I believe that you really cant go wrong with any of the big manufacturers out there but you need to make sure the bike you are purchasing needs to meet your intended riding purpose. Thanks for any input!!

Steve
Welcome Steve! Your 250 & 300 purchase is an interesting one, it will give you some hard choices in picking the correct mount for future rides. For the most part many riders agree (me included) that KTM's do tend to be built a little bit better, like the hydraulic actuated clutch and excellent brakes. Odd things like the tall seat height and high effort kick starter need to get use to, but you will.

The bike that I would expect to be closer to your KDX-220 is the 300. Granted power wise the 300 wins in every category, but the DELIVERY of that power will be kind of close between these two. Of which expect the 300 to have a good amount of low end and mid with a decent high end rush. No sudden bursts and no real 2 stroke "hit". The 250 will rev faster and pull through it's powerband much faster, even to the point of it feeling like an MX'er to someone not use to riding a 2 stroke.

Don't worry about pistons, porting or ignition curves ~ just ride them and pick your favorite. And if the previous owner really was an "A" rider in your area then the jetting should be close if not spot on if you decide to burn the same premix ratios.
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:21 PM   #1573
Bucho
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Location: Maryland
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Ive had a 99 that I felt has been a pretty reliable bike. I did finally have to replace a stator (funny how that was mentioned). Other then that it has been a good bike for me.
Id love a newer version but in reality it will probably serve me for a while before I get something new. (Im pretty cheap)
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:55 AM   #1574
Stobie
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Location: Stanley, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornet8118 View Post

These are my 1st KTM products so i've been doing a ton of research. i'm coming off of a very nicely set-up and tuned KDX 220 for harescramble/enduro use. I'm hoping the power jump isn't to big. I'm pretty much a weekend warrior and don't get nearly as much seat time in as i would like to.



Steve
Steve,

About two months ago, I picked up a really nice '05 250 EXC, very similar to, if not nearly identical to, your 250 XC-W. I can't compare to the 300 because I've never ridden one; but one of my riding buddies rides a KDX200 that he's had for years, and he hopped on my 250 and ripped through some really tight woods and loved it immediately, finding the power very manageable. That said, my 250 has a Gnarly pipe, and the green power valve spring two turns in, which is a setup that gives very smooth power delivery. These bikes can be tuned to be mild or wild with very little wrenching.

My point is that I don't think you'll find the power jump to be an issue, and there is a lot of tune-ability available. Since you have both a 250 and a 300, maybe you could set one up as a pussycat, and the other as a beast. I think the relevant parts are interchangeable between the two bikes.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:14 PM   #1575
hornet8118
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Thanks for the info guys. i just need to get some seat time in on both of them and sort everything out. looking through everything i got with the bikes it looks like the yellow power valve spring is currently installed on both bikes judging by the red and the green spring that are in a small plastic tube with a brand new main jet and needle in the owners manual bag.

in regards to the power valve springs i was looking through the manual and i read up on changing them but i thought it was odd that the manual states "make sure you not to turn the dolly screw since this will impair the engine characteristic."

you would think the manual would give you the adjustment procedures to set it at the factory adjustment in case the setting was messed with?? i see alot of guys turn them out till their flush or run them two turns in.

looks like i'll have a lot of test rides this spring getting these things dialed in.

Steve
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