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Old 01-16-2010, 04:33 PM   #61
Wylie
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Location: Shoshone, Idaho
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Very Nice Jack and I see the 690 peeking around the corner too. No signals? You forgot the squishy horn to offset the perfectionizum!

I'm almost feeling lucky my car crapped out when it did because I went and bought a truck with a loan from the bank and the payments and all.

During this same time period I seen a 300 up in Bellevue for sale looking so lonely sitting out on the street all by itself. I'm not sure what year or how farkled but it sure looked nice. Anyway I had to administer some self discipline and never got close enough to catch a whiff of the two stroke as I could see myself dumping a couple grand putting my own little tweeks on a 300.

Truck's paid off now, God help me!
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:12 PM   #62
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
Trailtech Vector. Look into the Vapor as well, I prefer it for a dual sport bike.
Correct. I've used the Vapor on other bikes. For this one, the Vector seemed to be the one to use as it has a resettable odometer. Both have temperature gauges which can be useful at times. I don't think you can really use one of these as a dual sport bike. The vibes at speed are hard to tolerate. My XC has 14/45 gearing right now which gives about the same 5th gear performance as the stock (US) 13/50 on a XC W. At 5000 rpm on both bikes, you are zipping a long at 47 mph. At 7000 rpm you are up to 65 on the XC and 66 on the XC W but your feet go numb in 30 seconds from the vibes. Works great connecting between trails and getting into town to fill up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGas300
I have a question about the speedo - Who makes it and where did you get the mount? Does it use and magnetic pickup?
Late model KTM's have a hole in the front rotors for the Trailtech magnet which attaches with a circlip. The sensor screws into the threaded hole in the Brembo caliper mount just like the OEM sensor. Easy install.
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Old 01-16-2010, 06:50 PM   #63
GasGas300 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack
Correct. I've used the Vapor on other bikes. For this one, the Vector seemed to be the one to use as it has a resettable odometer. Both have temperature gauges which can be useful at times. I don't think you can really use one of these as a dual sport bike. The vibes at speed are hard to tolerate. My XC has 14/45 gearing right now which gives about the same 5th gear performance as the stock (US) 13/50 on a XC W. At 5000 rpm on both bikes, you are zipping a long at 47 mph. At 7000 rpm you are up to 65 on the XC and 66 on the XC W but your feet go numb in 30 seconds from the vibes. Works great connecting between trails and getting into town to fill up.



Late model KTM's have a hole in the front rotors for the Trailtech magnet which attaches with a circlip. The sensor screws into the threaded hole in
the Brembo caliper mount just like the OEM sensor. Easy install.
Thanks1 great info - how does the unit get water temp info? Do you need to a a sensor somewhere?
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:15 PM   #64
Shuffler
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Location: Niwot CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGas300
I notice KTM has a accessory fan kit for the 300 - I ride with a guy that has a 450 and it was a must for his bike - Does the 300 need to have this also if it is being ridden on slow tight single track?
I'd rather play it safe and have the fan 'just in case', so I added the SPAL hardparts fan kit, but did a minimalist mount and overrode it with an on/off switch so I have full control and didn't have to tap a hole in the radiator.

I also added a coolant overflow tank and a 1.8 rad cap ... this combo saved me a handful of times - running leaner jetting here in CO means the bike will boil over when you hit 1st gear, clutch-slipping nasties. You can richen jetting to run cooler, but you won't get the best performance.

There's some epic threads about this over in the KTM forum on ThumperTalk...
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:05 AM   #65
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGas300
Thanks1 great info - how does the unit get water temp info? Do you need to a a sensor somewhere?
The water temp sensor I used involves cutting out a short section of one of the radiator hoses and two hose clamps. If you have a late model KTM radiator, there is a version of the Vector kit which mounts the temp sensor in a threaded hole in the radiator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuffler
I'd rather play it safe and have the fan 'just in case', so I added the SPAL hardparts fan kit, but did a minimalist mount and overrode it with an on/off switch so I have full control and didn't have to tap a hole in the radiator.

I also added a coolant overflow tank and a 1.8 rad cap ... this combo saved me a handful of times - running leaner jetting here in CO means the bike will boil over when you hit 1st gear, clutch-slipping nasties. You can richen jetting to run cooler, but you won't get the best performance.

There's some epic threads about this over in the KTM forum on ThumperTalk...
I haven't done the fan or overflow tank yet, but I did do the 1.8 bar cap. KTMTalk also has a bunch of threads in the 2 stroke area also.
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:35 PM   #66
Death Dealer
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Have any of you used or considered using, Jeff Slavens engine service? What about his suspension service?
The Slavens Mule Port/Polish/Decking/Head Mod sounds like it'd be real impressive...
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:50 AM   #67
Shuffler
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Location: Niwot CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Death Dealer
Have any of you used or considered using, Jeff Slavens engine service? What about his suspension service?
The Slavens Mule Port/Polish/Decking/Head Mod sounds like it'd be real impressive...
Suspension gets 2 thumbs-up...the stock 300 is way undersprung for ~240lbs of rider + gear.

It's worth the investment, and Jeff is a great guy to work with.

Considering the Mule motor work, but probably not until I'm ready to replace the top end.

Will probably have him rework my 950 Adv forks...they are wimpy for such a big bike.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:57 AM   #68
ErricZ
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I just got a 98 KTM 300 EXC, the thing is a wheelie machine in 2nd and 3rd gear. I never rode dirt before but this thing is so amazing I might sell my street bike. ;)

I need some new springs as this bike was setup for a 300+ pound fella ... anyone need those springs? I need a .44kg front and 7-9kg rear. These are a lot more than that.
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:24 AM   #69
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErricZ
...the thing is a wheelie machine in 2nd and 3rd gear...
I have an '09 (XC-W). For me, the whole "2nd and 3rd gear" thing was the largest part of the (re)learning curve.

When I first rode it, I remember thinking how "docile" first gear felt (relatively...as I had already heard so many legendary stories about this machine). However, after slamming 2nd a few times, I knew why! The front wheel would go "12-o'clock" with very little provocation.

My last ring-dinger was a CR500. For some reason (and this is just my opinion), I don't remember it being as violent as this thing (XC-W).
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:36 AM   #70
Gordy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ

My last ring-dinger was a CR500. For some reason (and this is just my opinion), I don't remember it being as violent as this thing (XC-W).

It shouldn't be "violent". Powerful, torquey with the ability to over-rev would be a better descripton.

If yours is violent, I'd check into the power valve adjustment or it may be sticking.
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:38 PM   #71
LILBIT
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If it's violent look at jetting. One small lean spot can do it. If it occurs close to where the PV is opening then things get even worse.
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:13 PM   #72
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordy
It shouldn't be "violent". Powerful, torquey with the ability to over-rev would be a better descripton.

If yours is violent, I'd check into the power valve adjustment or it may be sticking.
Gordy, I appreciate you and LILBIT weighing-in on this. I don't know if y'all will see my response/questions. However, I want to throw them out there, anyway.

The bike is set-up as it came from the Factory (yellow/gelb auxiliary spring and the ignition curve connector engaged). The manual cautions against turning the "spring dolly". However, I have to assume that the spring dolly is also positioned correctly (I'll tell you why, later.).

I hope this question doesn't seem too ignorant. However, how could I check to see if the power valve is "sticking"?

When I say "violent", that's exactly how I mean it. When this thing "comes on the pipe", it reminds me of the complaints I used to hear about the (500cc) twin-cylinder, 2-stroke, road-race bikes of old, and how "unrideable" they were.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LILBIT
If it's violent look at jetting. One small lean spot can do it. If it occurs close to where the PV is opening then things get even worse.
LILBIT, the jetting is also "as purchased". However, you may be onto something. The temperature has been in the high-40's/low-50's (probably a hair beyond the stock settings).


This is the "later" part I was talking about...

About four weeks ago, I crashed pretty bad. The 300 needed some major CPR...more than I was physically capable of doing. I took it to a dealership that I really (REALLY) trust.

When they were done, they never made reference to the jetting, or anything else. I trust them enough to believe that, if anything was wrong, they would've let me know.


What do y'all think?
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"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:20 PM   #73
LILBIT
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Jetting a bike is a personel setup thing as much as being right or wrong. I hate a super crisp MX type zing for woods use. It won't pull good a gear high under a load and will spin bad in the proper gear. You have to jet a 125 this way but not a 300.

If the bike is to zingy then try moving the needle clip down at least 1 but maybe 2 clips. Adjust the air screw as needed. I want all rpms to have a TINY sputter at a steady throttle under a load. If it surges it's lean. You should have different needles. Try one with a smaller base diameter. Look up the codes or measure the straight section before the taper with a mic. This will richen up just off of idle to 1/8 throttle mostly. The carb is the most important. Do it before bothering with the PV.

I played with all of the PV springs and settled on red. Yellow or green just took bottom away then when the pipe came on you had a hit. Many will argue this but there was a very good set of dyno runs on KTM Talk that showed the same. The red spring with good jetting was super smooth while the other had a quick surge when the PV opened. Do play with the PV screw. It won't hurt anything and you'll find the sweet spot. Try it all the way out(Maybe 1-1//2 turn past flush) then 3-3 1/2 turns in from there to see the extremes then you'll see what doesn't work.

Be patient and take notes. It is worth the effort to learn. You will love the bike once sorted and will be able to adjust for any weather condition

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Old 01-22-2010, 07:40 PM   #74
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Thanks...

Thanks LILBIT...damn good information. I really appreciate you responding.

Can I try that red spring with the stock can? I was always under the impression that I had to have the SX/SXS can to "play" with the red spring.
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"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:14 PM   #75
pfb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
Thanks LILBIT...damn good information. I really appreciate you responding.

Can I try that red spring with the stock can? I was always under the impression that I had to have the SX/SXS can to "play" with the red spring.
PV Springs:
Lots of KTMtalk'er seem to definitely be fan's of the red spring. Didn't like the green spring at all, back to the yellow spring, will maybe play with the red spring in the Spring.

Jetting:
For what it's worth, Jeff Slavens recommended the following jetting for a 6K-10K altitude stock '06 300...
  • n8rw needle, 2 clip down.
  • 42 pilot
  • 145 main
  • 1-1.5 turns out air screw
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