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Old 01-30-2011, 10:03 AM   #151
Chadx OP
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
Where did you get the turn signals to put in there? Are they Zegas?
Scott
The ones in the above image look like an aftermarket install, but note that Paul does, or plans to, sell hand shields with the turn signals built in.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:36 PM   #152
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 652
Hdb

These are awesome and Paul is a super guy to do business with. Got a set a couple of months ago for my F800GS and love'em. Fit perfect, look great and yeah they work. Bike took a dirt nap on the shoulder of a gravel road and I still got my OEM levers with no damage.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:28 AM   #153
Numb
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finally got my top clamp wired with switches and the LED dash from Paul - but this morning I realized the LED's are a little too bright - anyone happen to know the correct resistor to dim them by about 50%? Or perhaps 3 suggested ones and I'll do a little trial/error?

thanks - these HDB guards and top clamp are unbelievable quality...

edit...SWAG and start witha 330ohm?

Numb screwed with this post 02-10-2011 at 11:28 AM
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:16 AM   #154
RoundOz
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Resistors not the best choice???

LEDs are not like a normal bulb and don't act linearly with varying resistance. A resistor to change the brightness level, depending on how the LED's in the array are arranged, may use more power than the LED. No, not a huge energy hog but inefficient. Different color LED's have a different voltage drop across them too. Look this up on Wiki, or just google "dimming LEDs" for a better explanation than I can give you. Most guys dimming LED driving lights go for a pulse width modulator (about $15-20 I understand, but those are a higher power level than you would need) which chops the current into chunks so fast that you cant see it as anything but the LED dimming. Very linear.
You could experiment with resistors (a little quicker if you can measure the current and voltage drop across the resistor and know Ohms law) but if you get the level you want, make sure you leave it turned on for a while see if the wattage resistor you have can handle the power - test it on the bench before tucking it away inside the wiring loom - don't want to let the smoke out.
You could experiment with, say, a 1k variable resistor (pot) and when you get the brightness level you want , measure the resistance and buy a resistor of that value.
If this sounds like too much work, search some more on ADV or start a separate thread - somebody has probably already been there, done that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Numb View Post
finally got my top clamp wired with switches and the LED dash from Paul - but this morning I realized the LED's are a little too bright - anyone happen to know the correct resistor to dim them by about 50%? Or perhaps 3 suggested ones and I'll do a little trial/error?

thanks - these HDB guards and top clamp are unbelievable quality...

edit...SWAG and start witha 330ohm?
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:42 PM   #155
Numb
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoundOz View Post
LEDs are not like a normal bulb and don't act linearly with varying resistance. A resistor to change the brightness level, depending on how the LED's in the array are arranged, may use more power than the LED. No, not a huge energy hog but inefficient. Different color LED's have a different voltage drop across them too. Look this up on Wiki, or just google "dimming LEDs" for a better explanation than I can give you. Most guys dimming LED driving lights go for a pulse width modulator (about $15-20 I understand, but those are a higher power level than you would need) which chops the current into chunks so fast that you cant see it as anything but the LED dimming. Very linear.
You could experiment with resistors (a little quicker if you can measure the current and voltage drop across the resistor and know Ohms law) but if you get the level you want, make sure you leave it turned on for a while see if the wattage resistor you have can handle the power - test it on the bench before tucking it away inside the wiring loom - don't want to let the smoke out.
You could experiment with, say, a 1k variable resistor (pot) and when you get the brightness level you want , measure the resistance and buy a resistor of that value.
If this sounds like too much work, search some more on ADV or start a separate thread - somebody has probably already been there, done that.
thanks - i knew from years past that it was tricky to dim led's v. regular filament light sources, but didn't recall how i did it a long time ago.... i tried several types of resistors since they are cheap, but to no avail. I had to rewire the switched and led dash anyway b/c the green led had burned out for some reason - so no time wasted with the experiment.

i think i'm going to do one of two other options - either push them into the dash and cover with something tinted, or more likely just use something on the very top of the led to cut the brightness that way (so it will light peripherally but not straight up anymore). these leds are BRIGHT (very) so no way they work for me at night as is. if neither of the above options works then i'll cut the power and leave them alone...don't really need them anyway just looks nice
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:48 AM   #156
RoundOz
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Probably your best option - installing PWM's for this application might be a little over the top (unless someone has a small, low power version that is plug and play). Leaving the LED's there but not working could be an issue if you run across the anal State Patrolman, but you would have to be pretty unlucky there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Numb View Post
thanks - i knew from years past that it was tricky to dim led's v. regular filament light sources, but didn't recall how i did it a long time ago.... i tried several types of resistors since they are cheap, but to no avail. I had to rewire the switched and led dash anyway b/c the green led had burned out for some reason - so no time wasted with the experiment.

i think i'm going to do one of two other options - either push them into the dash and cover with something tinted, or more likely just use something on the very top of the led to cut the brightness that way (so it will light peripherally but not straight up anymore). these leds are BRIGHT (very) so no way they work for me at night as is. if neither of the above options works then i'll cut the power and leave them alone...don't really need them anyway just looks nice
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:15 AM   #157
Numb
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Location: Virginia
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well, the green ones keep burning out after about 2 hours of riding time... red holding strong.

I used a sharpie to dim the led - but the green was already on the way out, and I didn't need my heated gloves this morning so time will tell if sharpie is enough or if I need a dab of paint or a sticker on the very top to cut the glare.

seriously thinking about just putting in regular bulbs... (imo the hdb led dash = not worth the cost or effort...and $15 to ship the dash and led's is a little ridiculous)
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:15 PM   #158
tweiss
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Attachment 249676
Found this on my front porch last night. Came in from the HDB top clamp group buy here on this site.
I went from this;
Attachment 249677
To this;
Attachment 249677
I even got to go try it out this morning before the freezing rain set in.
Name:  HDB Handlebars 014.jpg
Views: 3243
Size:  193.3 KB
During this process, I got to learn what a nice guy Paul is. After my ride, I learned what a genius he is. Somebody shoud have hired him to design motorcycles.
Lovin this set up!
Tom
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:12 AM   #159
Ronin ADV
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Location: Northern Sierras
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Lower clamp bolt

Anyone know if the lower clamp bolt for the WR250R is a 10mm or 12mm? Thanks

Dan
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:49 PM   #160
Wadester
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: 'Cruces
Oddometer: 1,817
A slight mod to a lovely clamp:

DR350S with Lynx fairing.
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:05 PM   #161
dvwalker
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Location: Orygun
Oddometer: 733
Laugh HDB rocks....

Very satisfield customer with Paul and HDB, A+ service and quality product.

To finish off project cockpit update, still need to add velcro safety strap and leash for the gps and spot.



GPS wired unswitched (aka always hot) using eastern beaver 3 circuit solution and 4 pin cable.



Purchased taller bottom clamp and KX high bar bend for total rise approx 1 1/2" above stock.

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Old 04-18-2011, 06:17 PM   #162
Chadx OP
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Great looking setup, DV. I have the bare aluminum setup on my WRR, but I think I'm going with the black anodization on my HDB setup for my Super Tenere since everytime I see the setup in black, it looks so great. Plus, I don't think my ST will be dropped as often as my WRR so the black won't get hammered off of the handguard.

For those interested, Paul said he was making an option available where everything EXCEPT the handguards are black (the billet guard itself. Not talking hand shields). That way, if you are putting them on a bike that will be doing a lot of napping, you won't have to worry about beating the black finish to pieces by repeated drops on rocks, etc. Nice to have options.
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:18 PM   #163
dasvis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx View Post
Great looking setup, DV. I have the bare aluminum setup on my WRR, but I think I'm going with the black anodization on my HDB setup for my Super Tenere since everytime I see the setup in black, it looks so great. Plus, I don't think my ST will be dropped as often as my WRR so the black won't get hammered off of the handguard.

For those interested, Paul said he was making an option available where everything EXCEPT the handguards are black (the billet guard itself. Not talking hand shields). That way, if you are putting them on a bike that will be doing a lot of napping, you won't have to worry about beating the black finish to pieces by repeated drops on rocks, etc. Nice to have options.
Dang, I want one of those Super T's bad... will never get it past the wife though...
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:33 AM   #164
Silent Panda
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does anyone have pics of HDB set up on a R1200GSA?
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:19 AM   #165
DiscoDino
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Location: Lebanon/NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Panda View Post
does anyone have pics of HDB set up on a R1200GSA?
+1, I need one for my 2009 and as long as we have the bolt pattern along with the overall width, then it can be built for us...issue is that my bike is 7,000 miles away from me and I fear that my Xch bolt pattern is not the same
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