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Old 03-22-2010, 04:50 PM   #76
DRONE
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Just discovered this thread when DiscoDino made mention over on the XCountry thread. I installed the HDB guards about a year ago. Used them all last season and have posted several times on the XCountry thread about how much I like them. My XCountry is not treated like a dirt bike but I still managed 4 get-offs last season. You can see some light scuff marks on the guards between the bar end and the shield and that's all. Very tough.

The big thing I like about these guards is that with the bar end weights, there's plenty of room for my OEM controls. No chopping or grinding of the levers. A coupla pics of my finished install--



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Old 03-23-2010, 08:01 PM   #77
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Very nice looking install!
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:57 PM   #78
DiscoDino
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Having wiring issues - "I hate wiring"

So wiring is my least favorite aspect of wrenching on anything!

The two connections from the battery via two Gerbing COAX cables with a 15a fuse each comes up right at the steering neck so that I can plug a COAX male plug into that and up into the top triple seen below:



For each cable, there is a Powerlet socket, a High, OFF, Low 3 stage switch, and a 2 color LED light (Green for Low, Red for High).

I can't figure for the life of me how to wire this thing up...last iternation is:

1. COAX male from battery harness: Ground to center ground switch, and position splits into two, one going to High, one going to Low
2. Ground going from switch to LED nd to Powerlet socket
3. High positive from one end of the switch going to Red on LED and positive on Powerlet
4. Low positive from one end of the switch going to Green on LED and positive on Powerlet

This is assuming that the center terminals at the LED and switch is the ground?

Whenever I connect this the fuse pops...without any load! Just plying around with the switch. The first second I connect everything the LED does light up, but the the fuse pops...

Not sure what I'm doing wrong, and would hate to do this mediocrly...

HELP!

Thanks
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:04 PM   #79
bash3r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino
So wiring is my least favorite aspect of wrenching on anything!

The two connections from the battery via two Gerbing COAX cables with a 15a fuse each comes up right at the steering neck so that I can plug a COAX male plug into that and up into the top triple seen below:



For each cable, there is a Powerlet socket, a High, OFF, Low 3 stage switch, and a 2 color LED light (Green for Low, Red for High).

I can't figure for the life of me how to wire this thing up...last iternation is:

1. COAX male from battery harness: Ground to center ground switch, and position splits into two, one going to High, one going to Low
2. Ground going from switch to LED nd to Powerlet socket
3. High positive from one end of the switch going to Red on LED and positive on Powerlet
4. Low positive from one end of the switch going to Green on LED and positive on Powerlet

This is assuming that the center terminals at the LED and switch is the ground?

Whenever I connect this the fuse pops...without any load! Just plying around with the switch. The first second I connect everything the LED does light up, but the the fuse pops...

Not sure what I'm doing wrong, and would hate to do this mediocrly...

HELP!

Thanks
yeah.. DisoD you got something shorting a circuit out, possibly a couple wires swapped or a wire grounding and its blowing the fuse. I had this happen to me wiring up something and I had my wires swapped it'd blow the fuse immediately.. turn key on. POP!

Maybe draw out how you have things wired and post it up so we can take a look.. I always wire one thing at a time, test it and then move to the next that way I can backtrack easiest if something starts to go wrong. You could do that pull each circuit off and test them one at a time..
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:20 AM   #80
DRONE
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Dino--electrical farkling is my favorite thing to do, but I'd have to see yours to figger out what's up. I do have a couple of comments though.

1st-- a switch is normally only connected to the power, not the ground. When the switch is open it breaks the circuit and turns OFF the accessory; when it's closed the circuit is connected. But with your setup, with the LED lights, it's different. Still, though, it seems like no ground should go to the switch. Seems like high power should go to one terminal, low power to the other terminal, then the third terminal is the one that connects to the accessory.

2nd--This brings up the question of high and low power. Do you have high and low power? I'm guessing not. I'm guessing that the switch on high or on low is full power from the battery. If that's right, then you really need to connect only one of the power terminals on the switch and the other terminal will be the same as "off."

3rd--check and double check the two sets of wires coming from your battery to make sure you have correctly identified which two are power and which two are ground.
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:26 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino

1. COAX male from battery harness: Ground to center ground switch, and position splits into two, one going to High, one going to Low

This is assuming that the center terminals at the LED and switch is the ground?
OK, not certain, but this jumps out at me: Typically a switch is not designed to connect power (which you've sent to both low and high terminals) to ground (which you've connected to the common terminal). To me, as soon as you throw a switch in this setup you've got an automatic short.

What you want is this:

power - center terminal on switch
high terminal - to accessory 1 power
low terminal - to accessory 2 power

Ground from battery to chassis and to the other terminal on each accessory.

An example of what should be a working circuit:
GROUND---BATTERY---FUSE---SWITCH CENTER---HIGH TERMINAL---LIGHT---GROUND

The switch should not be involved in the ground at all.

If it helps, think of the wires as pipes, switches as valves, and lights as turbines. Ask yourself if the water will flow to the turbine or just go back to the pool.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:54 AM   #82
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Thanks for the info guys...Yes, seems that the switch should only receive positive power and no ground...

So what seems to be the verdict is:

Battery
+ive > switch in two (one for H, one for L) > each one to the respective light on the LED, and then converge to the Powerlet positive
-ve > Powerlet negative > LED negative

Is that the census? I PMed Chad and Bash for more clarity as they used the same switches...

Cheers,
Nadim
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:31 AM   #83
JDLuke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino
Thanks for the info guys...Yes, seems that the switch should only receive positive power and no ground...

So what seems to be the verdict is:

Battery
+ive > switch in two (one for H, one for L) > each one to the respective light on the LED, and then converge to the Powerlet positive
-ve > Powerlet negative > LED negative

Is that the census? I PMed Chad and Bash for more clarity as they used the same switches...

Cheers,
Nadim
If you want the LEDs to remain on whenever the powerlet is active, as opposed to when you have some accessory plugged into it, you should run the LEDs in parallel with them. That is, instead of having current go through the LED and then through the powerlet to get a path to ground, you'd have power fed to each, side by side, each having it's own ground path.

That's horribly confusing, so I drew it. This diagram assumes using one switch to control both powerlets, one is active when switch is in 'low', the other is active when the switch is on 'high'. I'm not certain exactly what you're trying to accomplish, so I made an assumption or three. I also left out fuse(s), which should be at *least* on the leg from the battery to the switch, and it wouldn't really hurt to fuse each powerlet separately as well.

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Old 03-24-2010, 11:57 AM   #84
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Something like this?

(I have two independent circuits, the red dots are the LEDs, the green lines pertain to the green light the "low" setting should get from the LED, and the red lines are for the red light when in "High")
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:00 PM   #85
JDLuke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino
Something like this?

(I have two independent circuits, the red dots are the LEDs, the green lines pertain to the green light the "low" setting should get from the LED, and the red lines are for the red light when in "High")
Looks like should work, although I'm puzzled as to the function of the switches in this setup. They're basically just acting as on/off switches with color choice?
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:06 PM   #86
DiscoDino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
Looks like should work, although I'm puzzled as to the function of the switches in this setup. They're basically just acting as on/off switches with color choice?
Reason why I have the switches is to provide two levels of power/heat...no? High and Low...or do I need a missing part for that?
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:11 PM   #87
JDLuke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino
Reason why I have the switches is to provide two levels of power/heat...no? High and Low...or do I need a missing part for that?
I don't imagine that the switch is actually changing the current going through it for high/low, those are just labels for what should be a fairly generic single-pole double-throw switch. All that fancy talk just means that yes, you're missing a part.

You need to think about what 'high' and 'low' mean for your application. A typical powerlet installation will provide roughly 12 volts (battery/charging system voltage) and as much power as whatever you plug into it tries to draw, up to whatever limit is set by your fuse (or worse, wiring). There's no inherent concept of 'high' or 'low' power in a motorcycle's electrical system, and no difference in what would be coming out of the 'low' and 'high' switch terminals.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:55 PM   #88
DRONE
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To repeat what JDLuke said, with your setup the amount of power going to your Powerlet will be exactly the same if the switch is in the High or in the Low position.

JDLuke's diagram for how to wire up the LED's looks correct too. Also, I'm not sure what kind of LED's you have there, but they need to be rated to handle 12 volts. Many aren't or have resistors built-in to regulate the power.

If you want to change the amount of power going to your heated clothing, you need to get a dedicated device to do that. Something like what Gerbing sells, or a Heatroller from Warm N safe.
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:14 PM   #89
DiscoDino
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Hmmm...I thought this H-Off-L switch would provide different amp settings. It comes from Symtec for their grip heaters and here's a diagram that Bash3r shared...

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Old 03-24-2010, 03:22 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino
Hmmm...I thought this H-Off-L switch would provide different amp settings. It comes from Symtec for their grip heaters and here's a diagram that Bash3r shared...

In general, and particularly based on the 'or Metal Toggle Switch' which basically says you can use a generic component, I'd say no. It's all about the blue vs. the white wire. You could wire those up backwards and have the 'high' setting give low heat and vice versa. The switch is nothing more than a mechanism for routing power to the desired circuit.
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