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Old 05-03-2013, 07:08 PM   #17446
bouldertag
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Joined: May 2008
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Went for a great ride today! Bike Flawless!


A little wind but the buffeting doesn't bother me due to having a DR 650 and others I wont mention at this time with serious buffeting. So I think I am permanently buffeted and have no problem with the Tenere's buffeting. Yes I never had a road king, Goldwing to know what Zero buffeting feels like so hey I am riding my motorcycle and it feels like a motorcycle to me. Guess I need to get a big screen to see whats it like to pass birds and actually hear them.

Maybe someday.

Hey I wanted to ask the collective if their engine is clicky!! I am not used to having a Vtwin 1200 Yamaha so I am not sure if that is normal or if I need to add octane to it. But it makes me so nervous that I am about to purchase the Yamaha Yes Warranty. My bike Clicks. Is that normal. I went to the dealer and had them start the one they had and it didn't sound the same as mine.

2k miles so far. Yes I know pretty wimpy..

Any advice?
boulder.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:16 PM   #17447
bouldertag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestVirginia View Post
My thread searching is not going well.

Maybe a more accurate question is: When on pavement, is it best to only use the front brake lever due to the Tenere electronics?

I promise not to ask any more dumb questions (tonight).
I don't know if it is best or right solution but it has been working great for me. But problem doing so obviously will wear out your fronts faster then normal.

I am now using my foot rear break often to offset front usage. I could be wrong in this theory but that is what I do. Every other stop I use the foot rear break. And also all hard stops I use both. Just me though. I leave it open for all others to discredit my procedures. As I am still learning on a 500+ pound bike dirt bike.

Boulder
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:02 PM   #17448
Reverend12
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Apply the same pressure to both brakes equally, squeeze the front brake and press the rear. Use both the same. The bike sounds like a tractor or a ducati whichever you prefer it has a noisey engine. It is not a V twin, it is a parallel twin. Congrats on the Super Tenere, You will love it.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:07 PM   #17449
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestVirginia View Post
My thread searching is not going well.

Maybe a more accurate question is: When on pavement, is it best to only use the front brake lever due to the Tenere electronics?

I promise not to ask any more dumb questions (tonight).
You can use both brakes, and fyi they are linked.
When to use them is important.
To try to answer your questions from before, especially because of your late start after 20yrs of non riding.
The answers are something that is learned over time, maybe yrs.
You need to start out on slow speed curves, more like sweepers, and practice, practice, and practice. As you gain more experience, your confidence will go up and you will be learning how your bike reacts and how you will react to the bike. This will all take along time.

Take the bike out and practice high speed braking. Learn your bike.. jmho
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:10 PM   #17450
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestVirginia View Post
My thread searching is not going well.

Maybe a more accurate question is: When on pavement, is it best to only use the front brake lever due to the Tenere electronics?

I promise not to ask any more dumb questions (tonight).
The Tenere electronics will proportion breaking effort based on weight on the bike AND available grip in millisecond time slices on or off road.

If you can do better than the UBS, then the S10 has the ability to override Unified braking by applying the rear first. The ABS has to be defeated using more dastardly means.

I have found the S10 to be freakishly capable of applying stopping power using the front only, but I am still not convinced I want to loose that skill. I often resort to using primitive manual UBS by applying the rear first.

Secondly, as Japako says get to know your bike in steps. Everything has a limit. ABS or no ABS. ABS is not a fix 100% of the time. It still pays top get your knowledge up so you know when to deal and you know when to hold or in more Clint Eatwood terms..

A mans got to know his and his bikes and modifications limitations.

Cheers
Graham
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GrahamD screwed with this post 05-03-2013 at 08:15 PM
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:33 PM   #17451
GrahamD
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Tenere 30th Anniversary Europe..

Just a heads up for all you Jet setters out there...

http://tenere-e-tours.ch/30years/30yearsblog.htm



And thank you for the guys over there for improving the Australian Tragics 2013 class photo...



Yes I'm in there some where..

And by the way, They are planning for 1700 Tenere's
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:07 AM   #17452
jaumev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
Sensible question.

I installed a big ass ACD and knobby-ish long wearing tires and some hard luggage.

This is what I expect from the combo.

I will let R1's pass in the twisties.

…………….
I am very prudent driving in tarmac and was surprised how easy I touched the ground with my boots and pegs in the Super Tenere. They are quite low.
Since I have firmer suspensions and more clearance I didn’t touch again.

Concerning to the ACD, Graham has the first prototype with a flat surface under the engine. The new in production is quite different. It's closer to the engine to increase the ground clearance and is stronger.

Left the production skid plate. Right the proto

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jaumev screwed with this post 05-04-2013 at 04:14 AM
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:16 AM   #17453
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaumev View Post
I am very prudent driving in tarmac and was surprised how easy I touched the ground with my boots and pegs in the Super Tenere. They are quite low.
Since I have firmer suspensions and more clearance I didn’t touch again.

Concerning to the ACD, Graham has the first prototype with a flat surface under the engine. The new in production is quite different. It's closer to the engine to increase the ground clearance and is stronger.
]
My apologies, I should have mentioned the fact that it was a bit fatter than the "Mark 2".
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:45 AM   #17454
jaumev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
My apologies, I should have mentioned the fact that it was a bit fatter than the "Mark 2".
Minimum differences...

but I see the people very sensitive after Mike crash...
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:57 AM   #17455
Dirty bike
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Location: Ivins, UT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roarin calhoun View Post
I've just begun shopping for a crash plate for my Tenere (snow's finally melting around here). After seeing the video of this crash I think I'm going to forgo a crash plate altogether. I'm an old corner blaster & my wife rides with me often(2 up) and now & then I'll pop an asphalt curve pretty hard.Sometimes a curve can surprise you & you're glad for all that ground clearance you didn't think you'd need....but did.
I'll risk banging a hole in the oil pan, better than doing a repeat of this fellow's crash. Thanks for posting it !
Have you simply considered buying an FJR?

The Super Tenere is a great all round bike, but if you're never going off pavement, or only on 'good gravel' roads, there are other bikes that are far better for street strafing and distance touring. I say that having come off a FJR that I put over 160k on too.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:29 AM   #17456
Dirty bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestVirginia View Post
Finally bought my first motorcycle in a little over 20 years last night. but am curious: I'm guessing on pavement most you guys ride in T 1 mode. So let's say you find yourself entering a corner too fast. What do you do on a Tenere?
I'll take a stab at this from a different angle. I do agree with using both brakes, it's just a good habit and one I long ago drilled into my riding skill set. Most are using TCS-1 on the street, it's the default and you can't change it on the fly, you have to come to a stop.

FYI - The current read on brake pads is that with the linked UBS, the rears will always wear faster than the fronts. Depending on your load and riding habits, you might wear out the rear pads in under 20k or over 50k. I do a lot of long distance riding, so not much braking during rides and just changed my pads at 45k.

To discuss your question highlighted above more. First, read THIS. Riding The Pace will eliminate a great deal of concern. Don't be fooled, it's not riding slow, but it is riding smooth and a different style of thought process than many people typically learn when starting out riding, especially us older guys.

Now, you realize you are entering a corner too hot... If you're not already doing these things, you can still apply them at the point you realize you screwed up...

1. LOOK THRU THE TURN! If you look at the road or that hillside, you're likely to ride right strait off the road or into the hillside. Look where you want to go, i.e. where you are exiting the curve, (or even beyond that on long, sharp curves).

2. Apply weight to the outside peg.

3. Push the outside bar away from center, (to the outside of the corner), and dip your shoulder to the inside of the turn. You will be bending the inside elbow and extending the outside elbow, bringing your body forward and to the inside.

Do this correction and you're making the bike stand up a bit more, giving you more ground clearance, but pushing your weight inside the corner more. You will know you're getting an improvement when you realize that your head is not centered on the windscreen, but on the inside corner side.

Your weight shifting is helping the bike to pivot more upright and keep the your mass on the inside corner side of the bike.

Over time, you will realize that as you do this you move from side to side while going thru the twisties, and it can help you to keep your head moving to look thru the corners, where you want to go.

This is a mild pre-curser of 'hanging off' which is much more aggressive and involves sliding your butt to the inside of the corner. IMHO - hanging off works really well if you are already riding at 90% of your ability and below that is mostly a poseur move on the street. A fantastic skill to master if you find yourself traveling down a 32' wide one way street, (the race track), but something that goes really, really wrong in a heartbeat on public streets with on-coming traffic and other road users that may not be up to your skill level.

On your next ride, play with these ideas and see how it feels to you. Most people find that they feel they have a bit more control in the turns at the same given speeds they tend to be comfortable riding them. When you have an 'oh shit' moment, you can apply this technique a bit more aggressively if you have already gotten used to the process, and it will help avoid Bad Things®.

If the process I have outlined above is not clear, please ask questions and I will attempt to explain further.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:57 AM   #17457
japako
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@WestVirginia, If you have not taken a MSF course, in my opinion it really will help you. Just think about it.. jmho
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:12 AM   #17458
Dirty bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by japako View Post
@WestVirginia, If you have not taken a MSF course, in my opinion it really will help you. Just think about it.. jmho
That's an excellent suggestion. They have courses geared for returning riders now, not just beginners. Also for advanced riders that cover technique and practices in much greater detail.

Well worth the minimal cost. Great for pointing out the bad habits even experienced riders can develop over years of riding and getting us back on track to ride better, , smoother, smarter and more aware.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:13 AM   #17459
avc8130
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If you want to take a COURSE, take a Total Control course. MSF on steroids. You will REALLY learn how to control your motorcycle.

http://www.totalcontroltraining.net/

If you are at all "local" to NY, take it with Christine:

http://www.ckskickstart.com/

They will teach you how to hustle a big beast around with aplomb and safety.

ac
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:45 AM   #17460
Anticyclone
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As to the rear brake pad wear issue; With the UBS, the rear brakes are immediately applied when the front brakes are applied, so wouldn't adding rear brake to that add more rear brake than needed for a particular situation?

In other words, the UBS adds x amount of brake, you add what you think is y amount via the brake pedal, but what you're actually getting is x+y amount of rear brake force. Therefore, unless you habitually add rear brake first (thus deactivating the UBS), your rear pad wear will be accelerated vs. what you're used to on a bike with "normal" brakes.

Does this make any sense at all? I'm very tired and confusing myself.
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