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Old 06-15-2011, 08:59 AM   #8341
fredz43
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Location: Illinois- land of straight, flat, boring roads.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcstrom View Post
Still mounts to the sump up front though? or are these set up somehow that they can't damage the engine the same way the OEM one can?
I believe the problem with the OEM is the rear mount, which bolts directly to the sump underneath.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:12 AM   #8342
sail2xxs
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If you smack the front of any of these plates, what "gives"? I would hate to look down and discover an important, un-duct-tapable or un-JB-weldable piece of the engine missing.

I got lucky with the GS the second time - the bracket for the plate broke. Pics of both incidents @ post 7: http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...103#post465103

Chris

sail2xxs screwed with this post 06-15-2011 at 09:36 AM
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:51 AM   #8343
~TABASCO~
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldie05 View Post
Wow, looks like 8 bolts need to come out so you can get to the filter for an oil change

With the miles I do it will become a pain pretty soon
Looks like I will be making a little mod to the unit to add a few more bolts just so I can get the filter out

Picture shows it still being bolted to the sump... NO WAY for me... No you dont pop a hole in the rear,,,, you blow the whole front out.. I know the SW guys are thinking they are using the plate as a fulcrum, and they think they are safe with those front sump mounts, but not for me...
Thanks for posting pic....
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:19 PM   #8344
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~ View Post
Picture shows it still being bolted to the sump... NO WAY for me... No you dont pop a hole in the rear,,,, you blow the whole front out.. I know the SW guys are thinking they are using the plate as a fulcrum, and they think they are safe with those front sump mounts, but not for me...
Thanks for posting pic....
Are those solid metal collars or are the two sump bolts rubber "bumpers". If rubber bumpers I can see that being about the best solution you could hope for. The plate will take most of the hit with the bracket but a serious hit will be further absorbed by the rubber bumpers, if they're rubber.
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:31 PM   #8345
fredz43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Are those solid metal collars or are the two sump bolts rubber "bumpers". If rubber bumpers I can see that being about the best solution you could hope for. The plate will take most of the hit with the bracket but a serious hit will be further absorbed by the rubber bumpers, if they're rubber.
They are rubber.
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:33 PM   #8346
jdpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~ View Post
Picture shows it still being bolted to the sump... NO WAY for me... No you dont pop a hole in the rear,,,, you blow the whole front out.. I know the SW guys are thinking they are using the plate as a fulcrum, and they think they are safe with those front sump mounts, but not for me...
Thanks for posting pic....
Have you seen any of the others and how they are bolted up? I will have to research this but thought I could talk someone else into doing that . Hey how about using 3M dual lock for the front

JDP
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:57 PM   #8347
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The SW engine guard does bolt to the sump in the mid section (lower front) but it is not direct to the bash plate. The extra metal plate allows some measure of flex and rotation onto rubber supports. So any shock is distributed over a large area after having the sting taken out of it. It bolts to 2 substantial lugs that protrude from the sump.

The front is bolted along with the two side casings on either side of the bike, to the crank case.

The rear are bolted to the footpeg/sidestand supports, and again there is and element of flex built in. There are rubber shock distributore between the support and the sump.

On top of this all the 8 bolts to fix the guard to the supports are also all rubber mounted.

So, yes, it is fixed to the sump but not in the simplistic way that the Yamaha one is. There is no other way in reality to fix a guard to the bike due to the engine being a stress member and it having no front frame.

Oh and BTW, it does need 8 bolts to be removed to change the filter (I've just done it) and the front 4 are loose nuts and bolts. Its a bit fiddly but its only 5 minutes work. The nuts (#23 on the diagram) are the integral washer type so can be easily held in place with a ring spanner.

I have today been out and hit my SW guard several times in the same location (boulders) that I wrecked the Yamaha one. All is still good.
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Old Git Ray screwed with this post 06-15-2011 at 02:06 PM
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:01 PM   #8348
Rema in Paluda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~ View Post
Picture shows it still being bolted to the sump... NO WAY for me... N
Just put an synthetic numberplate bolt in it, it prevents the alu bell to ring effectively put will sheer op at greater impacts
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:53 PM   #8349
llamapacker
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[QUOTE=dave6;16170514]
Quote:
Originally Posted by sail2xxs View Post
250 mL oil? Troll food! It's an oil burner. Synthetic? Regular Rotella T? Which filter?

1/4 of a quart since Salt Lake City (normal for other brands) where the service was done, my other Yamaha's would not use oil between oil changes. I wonder how this bike was broken in, if it was fired up and run on the freeway for days or if the proper break in was followed. I think proper break in is important to seat the rings properly. I guess I will find out when mine comes in 2 months. Still if that's all he's added since then, no big deal.
If it is the one we rode at IMS Dallas in Nov., it got worked pretty good!

What bash plate does Nick have on his bike?
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Old 06-16-2011, 01:17 AM   #8350
Brendan J
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Force Bash Plate

G'day all !!! Sometime ago I posted some photos up of a new bashplate being designed by Force Accessories here in Australia. I will have the final version in my hands by Wednesday 22 June. A retail price as finally been set at $240 AUD. The plate be removeable by 4 bolts to do an oil change if needed. It is constructed of 4mm aluminium cut from one sheet folded and tig welded. Mounting brackets are made from stainless steel. The plate will come only in a black polymer coating. I will endeavour to post photos up as soon as I can.
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Old 06-16-2011, 02:57 AM   #8351
GrahamD
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Thankyou!
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Old 06-16-2011, 04:32 AM   #8352
Wreckchecker
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[QUOTE=dave6;16170514]
Quote:
Originally Posted by sail2xxs View Post
250 mL oil? Troll food! It's an oil burner. Synthetic? Regular Rotella T? Which filter?

1/4 of a quart since Salt Lake City (normal for other brands) where the service was done, my other Yamaha's would not use oil between oil changes. I wonder how this bike was broken in, if it was fired up and run on the freeway for days or if the proper break in was followed. I think proper break in is important to seat the rings properly. I guess I will find out when mine comes in 2 months. Still if that's all he's added since then, no big deal.
I'm wondering not if, but how many times, Nick Sanders bike has been on it's side and this 250cc bit ought to be expected.

Appreciate the SW bash plate illustration and look forward to comparisons. Still looking and still not found one I'm totally satisfied with.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:36 AM   #8353
Tee Dee Mmm
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By the book filter change only every 2nd service and add these http://www.off-the-road.de/XT-1200-Z...ve-Yamaha.html to make life quicker and less messy.


Cheers Rick
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:16 AM   #8354
protondecay123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Knight Who Says Ni View Post
not a big deal, buddy... just messin with ya


If you want to look over the manuals, here they are for free download. http://www.konepool.demon.nl/de_xt1200z_pagina.htm



But if you post the question about service intervals a third time, I will have to fart in your general direction!
Thanks for posting that!! Just what I was looking for!
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Old 06-16-2011, 01:14 PM   #8355
jdpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protondecay123 View Post
Thanks for posting that!! Just what I was looking for!
When I tried to open that link for the service manual I get "no result". Do you think it has been closed off?

JDP
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