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Old 07-23-2012, 01:44 PM   #13111
Dallara
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Thumb 303...

Quote:
Originally Posted by freeflow View Post
why Kriega would make an outdoor product that is not UV stable is beyond me....
this is good stuff I use on my boat....




Big +1 on the 303!

IMHO nothing works better on vinyl, colored plastic, etc. than the 303. They make a bunch of great products, and their "Fabric Protectant" is second to none, too.

http://303products.com/index.php/303...uard-16oz.html

If you're not familiar with their various products their site is worth a look - http://303products.com/

Dallara



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Old 07-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #13112
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaumev View Post
More answers to your questions:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=68

The right is the clutch switch

You have a switch for when you want sun or rain???? I am impressed.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:21 PM   #13113
Mikef5000
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On an unrelated note...

I just put 248 miles (400 km) on a tank of gas! It wasn't easy cruising either; 60 miles of 80+ on the highway, followed by 60 miles of spirited backroad blasting, finishing with another 120 miles 2-up, all in Sport mode. It took 5.3 gallons at the pump, which means at a minimum, I would've made it to 260 (at 5.6 gallons), with a theoretical maximum of 280. It probably didn't help anything that my back tire was at 10 PSI .

I'm now completely confident, if I wanted to, I could pass the 300 mile mark. I might have to take a day and do a back road loop just to prove it.
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:55 PM   #13114
jaumev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
You have a switch for when you want sun or rain???? I am impressed.
Yes, the rain is gravity inversed but it works great opening and closing the umbrella
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:58 PM   #13115
GSDonovan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaumev View Post
More answers to your questions:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=68

The right is the clutch switch
Perfect, thanks!
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #13116
Desert Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatocity View Post
Talk is cheap. I want to see some photos.
You'll get your photos, but after this weekend. Can't do to much off road though, the bike just looks fragile now with the stock plastic thingee down there....

I've got to say Yamaha priced the new cover a lot cheaper than I would have expected, and at least ONE part of my bike looks brand new again
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:11 PM   #13117
RockyDS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscol View Post
Remember, if you ride it like a dirt bike you better be prepared to maintain it like a dirt bike.
Maybe so, but it is an issue with USD forks and although dirt bike fork seals are not warranted the seals are a better design and dirt bikes usually have OEM fork guards, which is not the case with the S10. I have had new fork seals on my S10 but my KLR went places off road my S10 has never been and with standard forks and fork gaiters there was no issue. In fact my S10 hasn't been off the highway, but that includes gnarly gravel highways.

Maybe the performance gains from reducing unsprung weight are not that important on a DS bike? If the bike needs gaiters for the designed purpose maybe Yamaha should have fitted then as standard.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:19 PM   #13118
Dallara
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Fork gaiters...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyDS View Post
Maybe so, but it is an issue with USD forks and although dirt bike fork seals are not warranted the seals are a better design and dirt bikes usually have OEM fork guards, which is not the case with the S10. I have had new fork seals on my S10 but my KLR went places off road my S10 has never been and with standard forks and fork gaiters there was no issue. In fact my S10 hasn't been off the highway, but that includes gnarly gravel highways.

Maybe the performance gains from reducing unsprung weight are not that important on a DS bike? If the bike needs gaiters for the designed purpose maybe Yamaha should have fitted then as standard.

Full fork boots don't work very well on "upside-down" forks... And they really won't work on the Super Tenere. No way they could survive so close to the brake discs and calipers, especially when they heat up under some heavy braking.

And let's not forget that a fork seal weeping very lightly (and I do mean very, very *LIGHTLY*) is not always an all bad thing in some cases. Hell, Husqvarna's back in the late '60's and all through the '70's came with leaky seals... Because Husky thought it made for smoother fork action with less stiction. OTOH, a leaky seal is a much touchier situation in this instance because you honestly don't want *ANY* fork oil on your front discs.

I've ridden my S-10 both on- and off-road for nearly 20,000 miles, and I've never had a fork seal issue. Please note, too, that I am a *BIG* boy weight-wise, and I don't ride gently (I carried an AMA Pro MX license & number for a few years), so I think I hit hard enough to have seal issues... But that said, I think I know why I don't.

I've mentioned this before, but I think it may help to post it here again.

Most of the time when you have a leaking fork seal it's *NOT* "blown" and needing replacement. Probably 85 - 90% of the time you simply have some grit underneath the seal lip, and it is that piece of dirt raising the lip of the seal that allows oil to seep by and make it appear you have "blown" a seal. The trick is to get that little piece of grit out of the seal. "Back in the day" we used anything and everything from 35mm film negative strips to business cards to slip up under the seal and try to flick the grit out. But today there's something much, much better... The "Seal Mate"

http://sealmate.net/

Watch the video there. It's worth your time. These little devils *WORK*! And with their cool little curved edge combined with the super-strong, super-thin material they easily get under the seal without damaging it. You absolutely won't believe what you will clean out from underneath your seal lips from time to time. I keep one of these on each of my bikes and one in the shop toolbox, too. If I see any sign of a seal weeping I pull the "Seal Mate" out and clean the seal. The "Seal Mate" is a relatively new tool, but using the old methods (film, clear acetate, etc.) I haven't had to replace a fork seal in *YEARS*... And that includes our 3 "Time Tunnel Racing" AHRMA vintage CZ MX'ers.

You might want to try some regular cleaning of your fork seals and it might help you avoid replacement, warranty or otherwise.

Just my two centavos... YMMV.

Dallara



p.s. I am not affiliated with Motion Pro, R&J Engineering, or Seal Mate in any way. Just a satisfied customer.


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Dallara screwed with this post 07-23-2012 at 10:45 PM
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:29 PM   #13119
jaumev
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Looks great! simple and clever.

Thanks Dallara

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Old 07-24-2012, 01:34 AM   #13120
SuperCruise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaumev View Post
Looks great! simple and clever.

Thanks Dallara
+1
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:15 AM   #13121
Flydream
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+1 thanks
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:39 AM   #13122
RED CAT
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Fork Seals!

The S10 forks are quite exposed to the elements. Do yourself a favour and instal something like Fork Skins or Seal Savers. Cheap and they work. Get a new pair every year and I doubt you'll ever have a problem with leaky forks.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:01 AM   #13123
Goldie05
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Thanks Dallara :)

Mine are no longer leaking after the cleaning we did. I'm going to look into the link you have once I'm home and buy whatever you recommend

My question is, how do I know or how can I find out how much oil it leaked? Should I send it to the dealer?
I don't think it was a lot but... :

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Old 07-24-2012, 10:11 AM   #13124
Mikef5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldie05 View Post
My question is, how do I know or how can I find out how much oil it leaked? Should I send it to the dealer?
I don't think it was a lot but... :
Unless it's leaving puddles when you park, it's not leaking enough to make a difference.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:35 AM   #13125
Dallara
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Oil Loss...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldie05 View Post
Thanks Dallara :)

Mine are no longer leaking after the cleaning we did. I'm going to look into the link you have once I'm home and buy whatever you recommend


My question is, how do I know or how can I find out how much oil it leaked? Should I send it to the dealer?

I don't think it was a lot but... :

Sent from my amazing Samsung SII :-)


Just like Mikef5000 said, unless you literally see puddles under the forks, and/or your front brakes are no longer working, then I doubt you've lost enough to worry about. Maybe you dropped your oil level in the forks a millimeter or two... Doubtful it's more than that.

You know how oil is... five drops on your garage floor looks like a puddle the next day. What usually gets past fork seals is more of a *mist* or *fog* of oil. That coats the slider tubes, and lots of dust and dirt adheres to the oil film, then the action of the forks squeegees this down, making it all look way worse than it usually is.

I really do keep one of the "Seal Mate" cleaners under the seat of my S-10, and usually pull it out and give the seals a swipe after every good washing I give the bike. You'd be surprised at what comes out sometime, and my seals have never leaked.

One more thing to note about fork seals... If they do start leaking very badly it's *NOT* because they're *blown*, as in lost their tension, etc. At least not 95-99% of the time... It's because a piece of dirt or grit has actually *torn* one of the lip surfaces of the seal. Once that lip is torn then usually the tear just gets worse and worse, causing more leakage Once that tear reaches a certain point on the seal then the seal loses its structural integrity and sort of *rolls away* from it's dual duties of wiping the slider clean and keeping the oil in. Once it stops wiping the fork tube then more dirt gets in, resulting in more tears, etc., and the problem becomes a cascade. Finally all seal integrity is lost and oil really dumps out.

Stop the dirt from tearing the seal and you've helped alleviate the problem.

It's also important to remember that there is more than one *part* of the seal. On an "upside-down", starting from the bottom, you'll have a dust wiper. This is there mainly to knock large particles off the fork tube. Truly small particles get right past this. Next is the actual seal assembly itself, which also has a primary *wiper* face, and is often surrounded by a small diameter spring (the S-10 has one of these springs on it's outer dust wiper, as well). This spring is to help hold sufficient tension on this seal wiper so it can scrape even smaller bits of dirt and grit away from the tube and keep them from the inner lips of the seal itself. It is these inner seal lips, that are behind the female tubes dust wiper and the fork seals own primary wiper, that actually seal the oil in the fork. The trick is to keep dirt and grit from getting to those inner lips, and that's where film cleaners like the "Seal Mate" come in. They let you get under the wiper section and remove dirt that is building up behind it, and starting to tear at the inner seal lips themselves.

And BTW... A lot of the neoprene *booties* some are using, like "Seal-Savers" and the "Kriega" ones, do no more than just trap a lot of dirt and grit behind them and IMHO do more damage than good. Remember, you're not trying to stop the dirt and grit you *CAN* see... The forks own primary dust wiper will do that if they are in good shape. Get into some muddy water, and the dirt and grit suspended in that will easily get past that neoprene booty. And then it sits there, trapped between the booty and the dust wiper and seal wiper, doing its damage where you can't see it to clean it off. Add to that the fact that these neoprene booties can hold dirt in their surface that rides up and down on the fork tube and what you have is something that is continually gouging and scratching your very, very expensive chrome-plated fork tubes...

Hope this helps!

Dallara



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