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Old 11-09-2012, 09:33 AM   #14251
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
Dunno how much in real money 64 Euros is but if it's more than $5, you can just build your own switch...
Guess we are back to the KLR section now.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:33 AM   #14252
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
Guess we are back to the KLR section now.
Don't be picking on me now!
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:44 AM   #14253
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
Dunno how much in real money 64 Euros is but if it's more than $5, you can just build your own bike...
Quote:
Originally Posted by simmons1 View Post
Don't be picking on me now!
If I was picking on you I would have done the above fix. I have a KLR so I've got to
be able to take a few punches too.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:31 PM   #14254
GrahamD
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Fair Review



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GrahamD screwed with this post 11-09-2012 at 09:53 PM
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:45 PM   #14255
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicolasR View Post
Do you know whats the torque for the two nuts beneath the top triple clamp, the nut over the triple clamp the one with the rubber plug, and the bolts that tighten the suspension bars in both triple clamps????
For the two castle nuts below the top triple, the book process is to tighten lower nut to 38 ft-lb, back off completely, then tighten to 13 ft-lb. The upper nut is simply a lock nut so you just snug it finger tight against lower nut, then check for alignment of the slots so the lock washer will fit. If you need to tighten the upper against the lower to get the slots to align, you hold the lower so that it isn't overtorqued.

After installing the top triple, the big nut on the top is tightened to 94 ft-lb.

To use a torque wrench on the castle nuts, you either need a special socket or Yamaha's spanner. And if using the spanner, you need to pay attention to the geometry to get a proper torque reading.

The widely used shadetree method of tightening a loose steering head is simply to use a hammer/punch to snug the lower nut until any looseness or play is removed. On many bikes (not sure about the S10), you can do this without even removing the top triple. You can do a good job this way if you have a feel for these things. I'd bet most dealerships use this method.

If you're asking about the triple clamp fork pinch bolts, the lower bolts (2 on each side) are torqued to 14 ft-lb. The upper bolts (one on each side) are 19-ft lb. If you remove the fork tubes, to avoid mis-alignment, it is important to tighten these first before you do the final tightening of the top nut.

- Mark
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:51 PM   #14256
crazyjeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
Fair Review



Cheers
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But I thought you couldn't do that sort of thing with a road bike.









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Old 11-10-2012, 02:28 AM   #14257
NicolasR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
For the two castle nuts below the top triple, the book process is to tighten lower nut to 38 ft-lb, back off completely, then tighten to 13 ft-lb. The upper nut is simply a lock nut so you just snug it finger tight against lower nut, then check for alignment of the slots so the lock washer will fit. If you need to tighten the upper against the lower to get the slots to align, you hold the lower so that it isn't overtorqued.

After installing the top triple, the big nut on the top is tightened to 94 ft-lb.

To use a torque wrench on the castle nuts, you either need a special socket or Yamaha's spanner. And if using the spanner, you need to pay attention to the geometry to get a proper torque reading.

The widely used shadetree method of tightening a loose steering head is simply to use a hammer/punch to snug the lower nut until any looseness or play is removed. On many bikes (not sure about the S10), you can do this without even removing the top triple. You can do a good job this way if you have a feel for these things. I'd bet most dealerships use this method.

If you're asking about the triple clamp fork pinch bolts, the lower bolts (2 on each side) are torqued to 14 ft-lb. The upper bolts (one on each side) are 19-ft lb. If you remove the fork tubes, to avoid mis-alignment, it is important to tighten these first before you do the final tightening of the top nut.

- Mark
Thanks Mark!!! Clear as water!!!
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:49 AM   #14258
wolftrax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjeeper View Post
But I thought you couldn't do that sort of thing with a road bike.









I'm sure WFO Pete will chime in here to debunk this vid.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:12 AM   #14259
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
Fair Review



Cheers
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Probably the best assesment I've heard. I really liked it at 1:39 in the sand. Looks like they
edited out the crash.

The really good part about it it was done by someone who really had a chance to ride the thing
in different terrain and was honest about the strengths and weaknesses.

Broken record time, it's what we owners keep telling everyone..."You have to ride it, before you judge it"
and not just around the block.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:01 PM   #14260
Cruz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
Broken record time, it's what we owners keep telling everyone..."You have to ride it, before you judge it"
and not just around the block.
That could be written about every bike!

Know a few ex owners who were happy to move them on and say why they didn't like them.

Doesn't mean they aren't a good bike though.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:37 PM   #14261
pluric
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Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
That could be written about every bike!

Know a few ex owners who were happy to move them on and say why they didn't like them.

Doesn't mean they aren't a good bike though.
True, it's just the Tenere sems to have more than it's fair share of judging the book by
the cover comments. Even the guy in the video seemed to have an idea how he thought the
bike would be by the stats. After spending some quality time on the bike he seemed
pleasantly surprised. Not overwhelmed with it, but impressed with the overall bike.

Same old thing. One bike may have more horsepower but delivery it at odd RPMs.
Another could have more suspension travel yet be poorly dampend. ABS seems to
be another area people assume they must have more control of based on
another brands system. A lighter bike may give the sensation of more weight by
frame geometry or engine placement. Just saying stats are helpful but your
ass in the saddle means the most.

The video pretty much sums up what I think most people would agree with if they could
spend that much time on the bike. It also could help some avoid the dissapointment
of the bike not meeting their expectations.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:03 PM   #14262
Cruz
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I reckon your last paragraph is spot on.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:15 PM   #14263
wfopete
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Boy, they didn't even talk about it's real forte': What a great commuter bike it is.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:16 PM   #14264
BobLoblaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
Fair Review



Cheers
Graham
did they use Pluric as a stand in on the sand section
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:26 AM   #14265
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobLoblaw View Post
did they use Pluric as a stand in on the sand section
How else would I have known about the crash edit?

Watching that section of the video is exactly how I feel in sand. All over the place
and then it's rest time.

You can't see it in the photo, but there is a grown man crying in his helmet here.



And time out.

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