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Old 09-09-2013, 01:52 PM   #1576
Bart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byron555 View Post
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...h360-no/Xt.jpg



He recently got a WR250x and wants to use it as his trail bike. So he swaped the 2000 yz250 front end on the XT with the WRx front end. In the end the XT will be a sumo...
Made the same Mod to mine. Makes the front end work sooooo much better.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:02 PM   #1577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byron555 View Post
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...h360-no/Xt.jpg



He recently got a WR250x and wants to use it as his trail bike. So he swaped the 2000 yz250 front end on the XT with the WRx front end. In the end the XT will be a sumo...
That front tire looks really wide.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:32 PM   #1578
newt_sr
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Something to be aware of

So, I order a little carb kit on ebay that held a little surprise. The float valve that came in the kit doesn't work on my '83. Right now, the folks that I ordered it from say that I have a Canadian/Californian version of the XT550. The outfit goes by Vintage Spoke. They say that Canada and California used the same part in their carbs. They also say that they have sold hundreds of these kits with no complaints. Gee, lucky me. Anyways, I thought I would throw a picture up of it and see if anybody else has been through this. The one on the left is theirs. Mine, on the right, has a spring loaded pin. The bottom half seems pretty similar as far as dimensions go.

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Old 09-12-2013, 02:46 AM   #1579
Hatchet54
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Weird.

Mine is definitely spring-loaded, no doubt there.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:57 AM   #1580
steveloomis
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Just an aftermarket imitation. I use OEM only from Yamaha.
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:09 PM   #1581
papawhellie
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I am still battling my xt 550 problems. My carb was missing a few items. I managed to locate the main nozzle and installed it. After a new UK CDI and installing a coil running about the same resistance she ran but died about 2200 RPM. Then I determined the main jet part #396-14343-62-00
JET, MAIN #124 is missing and unavailable. I ordered a jet recommended by someone on another forum but it was the wrong physical size to screw in. I found a jet in my nightstand drawer that screws in and has 130 stamped in it. It may be a mikuni jet from a 2 stroker. My question and where I need advice is
1. Does someone have an extra jet part # 396-14343-62-00
ET, MAIN #124 or know where to get one or a substitute.
2. Can someone take a number or letter drill bit or some way to measure the orifice in that jet where I could drill mine the proper size?

I really want to ride this bike and have been struggling for months. Any help would be appreciated.

The jet and part # recommended





The 130 jet I found that screws in



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Old 09-14-2013, 05:18 PM   #1582
papawhellie
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Last pic shows the two. The hole in the 130 that screws in looks noticeably larger that the 125 I bought. I have been unable to find help on the teikei carbs. I did get informed that mikuni, and kelhin use different criteria to arrive at the size of the jet. So a 130 in one mfg. has no bearing to a 130 in another. Running it with the 130 installed it revs higher but baulks and jumps. It will not rev out smoothly. It also has a lot of poping in the exhaust. I did obtain the carb mod kit off ebay that installs on the CV carb and installed it. I am not positive my float is set correctbut by pulling the tube to the aux carb it gas flows out when the tube is dropped 3/16 or so below the flood rim of the bowl.

The needle in the above pic with the spring is like the one in my 82. Some oem parts are not a bad buy. I replaced my petcock when the lever broke for 22 bucks from partszilla.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:42 PM   #1583
cookeal
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Originally Posted by cookeal View Post
OK, changing the plug did not make any difference...

Went ahead and changed the stator today... no difference

So now I know its not the CDI, Plug, Coil, Fuel, Carburetor or Stator...

Looking for more obscure things now - Wiring loom?... Timing?...

Any suggestions most welcome!
OK - Success... After blowing the base gasket I had to rebuild this one, and lo and behold, the misfire was still there. Had a close look at the measurements I had taken on the stator wiring and although all the pulser coil resistances were in spec, the brown-red was not. I have 4 stators and so set about comparing them:

Turns out I had swapped a stator with 232ohms for one with 253ohms (spec is 160-240) and so although the first one was just in spec it did misfire, and the second one was worse.

The other two I have are 198 and 206, so today I dropped in the 206 and it runs beautifully.

A lesson for me - lots of red herrings - it felt exactly like fuel, and also like a bad CDI. I ruled out fuel by taking it for a ride with a timing light attached and could see the misfire on the light...

So, hope it helps people to know that a stator approaching the top limit of the spec COULD cause misfire symptoms.

232ohms - misfire from approx 4500 revs - only when riding
253ohms - misfire at idle and throughout rev range

206ohms - lovely :-)

Best

Alex
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:47 AM   #1584
Bart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookeal View Post
OK - Success... After blowing the base gasket I had to rebuild this one, and lo and behold, the misfire was still there. Had a close look at the measurements I had taken on the stator wiring and although all the pulser coil resistances were in spec, the brown-red was not. I have 4 stators and so set about comparing them:

Turns out I had swapped a stator with 232ohms for one with 253ohms (spec is 160-240) and so although the first one was just in spec it did misfire, and the second one was worse.

The other two I have are 198 and 206, so today I dropped in the 206 and it runs beautifully.

A lesson for me - lots of red herrings - it felt exactly like fuel, and also like a bad CDI. I ruled out fuel by taking it for a ride with a timing light attached and could see the misfire on the light...

So, hope it helps people to know that a stator approaching the top limit of the spec COULD cause misfire symptoms.

232ohms - misfire from approx 4500 revs - only when riding
253ohms - misfire at idle and throughout rev range

206ohms - lovely :-)

Best

Alex
That's some good trouble shooting. I'm working on a 85 Venture Royale with ignition problems and 2 of the 4 pick up coils have resistance that is twice spec. A second set i have have exactly the same readings so i wwas not convinced it was the pickup coils. Not finished fixing it yet because I found TCI (CDI) is toast. All 8 diodes were corroded completely and replacing them did not fix the problem. There must be something else damaged in the TCI because of the diodes. I
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:55 AM   #1585
MartiniUp
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This thread is getting very boring without more photos of some of the nicest looking bikes ever. Yes it is.
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:25 PM   #1586
steveloomis
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Zeeltronics programmable CDI

I just installed my new Zeeltronic CDI for the older CDI version XT's. Installation was very straight forward since I had already programmed my advance curve. The unit came programmed but I wanted to faithfully follow the curve in the manual so altered the setting just a bit. 7000 RPM limiter was already set and can be removed if desired. the 250 Minimum RPM for Kickback protection was already set and I left that as well.

The programmable CDI comes with the Stator Plug and the 2 bullet wires going to the Stator already installed. The other, shorter wire loom has the Orange wire female bullet connector for direct plug in to the coil. The other 2 wires is for the Kill function and is Black/white stripe and ground is a solid black and have the correct bullet connectors installed.

The models of XT's without the kickstand switch will plug in directly and only need the 8 wires provided. If your bike has the Kickstand switch there will be a plug to route the neutral light wire through the CDI and an input for the Sidestand switch.

By now many have already bypassed the faulty sidestand switch so it is really not necessary. If this is true for you then you need the basic model and currently the only model ready to purchase. My 86 has the side standstand switch and it was bypassed. I removed the plug close to the CDI location, added the appropriate bullet connectors to match the CDI and plugged it in. Part of the process is to connect the blue wire from the neutral switch to the sky blue wire going to the neutral light. Just plug them together or solder and tape them.

OK, so how does it run??? My seat dyno wants to say much better, but I don't know yet to be honest. The XT has so much power anyway at 1200 feet AMSL it just pulls your arms very hard. Starting is a 1 kick affair if warm. If sitting for a day or two or more, I learned here or another forum to do the following: gas on, key off, no throttle, Kick 3 or 4 times ( I do 3 times) fairly easily, then key on, kick slowly until the compression release clicks, release kicker then kick a full kick and 9 times out of 10 it will start right up. This was true using the Hyperpak unit as well.

As I was enjoying the ride, I reved it till the RPM limit hit. Engine just kind of fluttered and would rev NO higher. I grabbed the next gear and off I went.

There is another loom for optional use, one wire is for a shift light, one for driving an electronic tach and one to go to +12 volts if you want to use the handheld programmer with the engine off. If you use the USB cable and a Laptop, the USB port will power the unit for programming. You most likely will not need the programmer, but I like to "Know" how things are programmed. One last wire is for switching between two programmed advance curves by either grounding or un-grounding the wire via a handlebar mounted switch. You can make your own or buy one from Zeeltronics. His web site has various plugs and pins for crimping your own. Go to www.zeeltronics.com. This unit is not listed yet but an email to Borut will bring you a response to your questions.

I will continue to ride and evaluate this unit and report honestly. So far I am happy.

Steve
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:53 PM   #1587
steveloomis
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Update on Zeeltronic ignition

My son just came back from riding my XT600 with the Zeeltronic Ignition. He said it pulled much harder from idle on up. I felt it did too, but wasn't sure. I will ride it more then switch the Hyperpak back in and see if I can tell any difference.

One thing I do know is that the advance curve will be faithfully reproduced since the PCDI-XT is microprocessor controlled and is not dependent on an analog circuit for the advance. I set the advance points to match my 86 factory manual as close as I could interpret it.

Once I know for sure, I'll report honestly what we feel the difference is, if any.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:40 PM   #1588
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^ Nice work and reporting Steve. If you are on good terms with the vendor how about inquiring re a replacement stator, as this seems the next most likely part to fail.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:58 AM   #1589
steveloomis
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Replacement Stator

I will ask Borut, but he has not done this before to my knowledge. How often do stators fail? I've seen some BMW stators that were black from going bad, I don't have a feel for this.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:27 AM   #1590
vudu
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Quote:
How often do stators fail?
Often enough. Look up about 6 posts.

Quote:
Turns out I had swapped a stator with 232ohms for one with 253ohms (spec is 160-240) and so although the first one was just in spec it did misfire, and the second one was worse.
Had one fail myself on the 600. Left me stranded in the bush. Replaced with a secondhand unit which I don't have 100% confidence in. In my mind the reliability of lack thereof is about on par with the CDI, certainly on the older bikes.
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