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Old 04-16-2010, 12:41 AM   #181
vudu
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Hey XT Warrior,

Quote:
Vudu, I like the look of that fender, but would love to get it in white.
Definitely come in white, had one on a '96 DT175.

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Old 04-16-2010, 08:32 PM   #182
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I'm leaning towards an aftermarket fender made for the 2006+ YZ125. A SuMo fender is just going to be too little and I looked into the DT front fenders and the ones I liked were $50 shipped on E-bay. I can get a Cycra Front fender for $30 shipped so I think I'll just bite the bullet and get another MX fender.

I haven't done much on the bike lately because I've been terribly sick the last few days but today I felt a bit better and finished the petcock and took it for a ride. Of course to my dismay I feel like the bike's front end is going to vibrate apart, and realize 1 of my weights fell off. However, I'm no longer having that petcock fueling issue

I'm also having a weird vibration when getting on my front brake for the first time after it sits for a bit. Sounds real weird but I've recreated it the last 4 times on the bike and can't think of what it could be. After that first brake it works fine, no vibration

Bleh, I'm tired and need some health sleep.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:08 AM   #183
J-Radical
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Hello fellow XT riders

Hello everyone. I've been browsing through forums on here for a couple of years and decided it was time become an inmate. Just thought I'd say a quick hello and give a short intro before I jump right into it. I'm a currently in college and have been riding since was a little guy. My dad has been the service manager at a BMW, Yamaha, Honda, and Polaris shop for more than 25 years and has taught me everything I know about bikes. (I definitely have a long way to go to becoming any good at it though) I have ridden bikes all over the US taking my first solo trip the day after I graduated from high school. At my last count I've cycled through 9 different bikes since I got my license 6 years ago. (I have a short attention span for bikes) My favorite so far being a 1993 Yamaha TDM 850. (that thankfully my friend is safeguarding for me) I'm currently riding a 2004 BMW Rockster.

Ok, now the reason I'm posting here is because my father and I recently got our hands on a box full of XT 550 parts and a bike to go with them. The bike is pretty good shape and we have duplicates of just about everything including duplicate stators. The bike was given to us with no spark and after running through the electrics have concluded that we are in need a pickup coil. That's right two good stators and two bad pickups. The stators are discontinued and no aftermarket available. My dad has been working with Custom Rewind in Burmingham, Alabama for many years now and he could probably make one of his generics work for us. It is still my hope to source a good factory one. So if any of you gentlemen would be willing to help a guy out I'd love to trade for and/or purchase a factory pickup coil for an XT 550.

PS That inverted fork mod on here is amazing and can't wait to install my own soon.

Sorry for the long winded-ness,

Jared
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:29 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Radical
Hello everyone. I've been browsing through forums on here for a couple of years and decided it was time become an inmate. Just thought I'd say a quick hello and give a short intro before I jump right into it. I'm a currently in college and have been riding since was a little guy. My dad has been the service manager at a BMW, Yamaha, Honda, and Polaris shop for more than 25 years and has taught me everything I know about bikes. (I definitely have a long way to go to becoming any good at it though) I have ridden bikes all over the US taking my first solo trip the day after I graduated from high school. At my last count I've cycled through 9 different bikes since I got my license 6 years ago. (I have a short attention span for bikes) My favorite so far being a 1993 Yamaha TDM 850. (that thankfully my friend is safeguarding for me) I'm currently riding a 2004 BMW Rockster.

Ok, now the reason I'm posting here is because my father and I recently got our hands on a box full of XT 550 parts and a bike to go with them. The bike is pretty good shape and we have duplicates of just about everything including duplicate stators. The bike was given to us with no spark and after running through the electrics have concluded that we are in need a pickup coil. That's right two good stators and two bad pickups. The stators are discontinued and no aftermarket available. My dad has been working with Custom Rewind in Burmingham, Alabama for many years now and he could probably make one of his generics work for us. It is still my hope to source a good factory one. So if any of you gentlemen would be willing to help a guy out I'd love to trade for and/or purchase a factory pickup coil for an XT 550.

PS That inverted fork mod on here is amazing and can't wait to install my own soon.

Sorry for the long winded-ness,

Jared
Welcome! Glad you could join us and glad to hear you guys are willing to resurrect an XT550. As far as parts, Big Ed has alot of XT550 parts and he might have something for you. I'd also seriously think about testing the CDI if possible, it is quite common for the OEM CDI to die and thus have no spark. Mine did, which started my slow overhaul of the bike Sounds like you have quite enough experience, more so than myself and I wish I had the adventuring experience you have had. One day....one day.

Is there any trick i am missing to lining up the T and the timing mark on the cam gear? I spent 20 minutes this morning slowly turning the flywheel attemtping to line the T mark up with the punched timing mark on the top gear to no avail. They would never line up. I got frustrated and let it sit. Is there another way to figure out TDC? I'm attempting to do the valves.

I also have 2 new bar end mirrors on the way, and new riding boots for when I eventually wash the rear out on this thing
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Old 04-18-2010, 12:30 PM   #185
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Tdc

Did you take the spark plug out? If you don't the piston will still build compression and not want to stay at TDC. Just a thought.
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:41 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Radical
Did you take the spark plug out? If you don't the piston will still build compression and not want to stay at TDC. Just a thought.
Tried this trick this morning, to no avail. The marks refuse to line up no matter how many time I slowly turn the engine. I'm about to smash my head off of the cylinder head at this point. I can see the punch timing mark on the cam chain gear, and clearly see all the marks on the flywheel as they go by; I, H, and T. I and T are in a circle, and the H is shortly after the I. The manual says to match up the T which makes sense. The problem is, non of them will line up with the top timing mark.

Is there anyway that we put this engine together slightly off? I can't remember specifics on the inside, but I believe the cam gear is fixed to the cam, so that has to go in a certain way, and I know the flywheel has a key guide since I had to spend several hours fishing it out of the lower engine when the old man dropped it into the case. So to me I can't think of why these will not line up. It's very aggrivating.

I'm assuming TDC is at one of the two harder to turn spots....anyway to tell which?
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:24 AM   #187
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Let's see if I got this right. You want to adjust the valves on the compression stroke. With the valve covers off, I put a finger on one of the intake valves, they'll open on the down stroke, then close on the upward compression stroke... look for the TDC 'T' mark after they close.

Curious...what happens when you check the timing (assuming you have a timing light)?

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Old 04-19-2010, 09:45 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt_sr
Let's see if I got this right. You want to adjust the valves on the compression stroke. With the valve covers off, I put a finger on one of the intake valves, they'll open on the down stroke, then close on the upward compression stroke... look for the TDC 'T' mark after they close.

Curious...what happens when you check the timing (assuming you have a timing light)?
I don't have a timing light unfortunately, but I did realize that reading comprehension > me. I thought I had to match the punch mark ont he cam gear to the T on the flywheel; not so. It says to match the flywheel T mark to the mark on the CRANKcase cover. I'm assuming they mean the little channel built into the threads on the blind plug on the Crank case cover.

I think I confirmed this by following your method as well. I checked for the compression by waiting for when the intake valves dropped (or opened) and then after they closed I looked for the T mark. While I cannot get the T mark to line 100% up with the channel (it kicks left or right a little so that I can see it, but it just won't stay put dead on) it doesn't seem like the valves are moving at all.

Going off of this, all of my valves are way too tight. I can't even fit the .04 mm feeler under the intake valve clearance.

Do these valves get tighter or looser as time goes on? Before I loosen anything I want to make sure I got it right though. Sounds like I got it right?
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Old 04-19-2010, 11:49 AM   #189
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I was told that they get tighter. Mine were tight , too. I used a .003 in. for intake and a .006 in. for exhaust. I put a slight bend in the .oo6 in. to get a better angle at the exhaust valves.

Here's the kicker, after adjusting the valves, I did a compression test and only got 50 lbs. Pisser. Long story short, the shop is grinding my valves and I'm waiting to hear if I need a rebore. I was completely shot down and dismayed after talking to the local Yamaha Dealership (Boss won't let me work on bikes over 20 years old, I won't split the case, parts are expensive or not available, $697 in parts, $300+ in labor, yadda yadda yadda). I found a guy that's a real bike lover and knows his sh*t. Luke at Cycle Quest He seems to think I have a bad exhaust valve but the cylinder looks pretty good. *Note:Hopefully the exhaust valve can be salvaged from lapping/grinding because they don't make them anymore and I haven't found a source for them.* So, I'm hopeful that the fix will be less than half of the Dealer's estimate.
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Old 04-19-2010, 02:59 PM   #190
XT_Driftwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTwarrior
Tried this trick this morning, to no avail. The marks refuse to line up no matter how many time I slowly turn the engine. I'm about to smash my head off of the cylinder head at this point. I can see the punch timing mark on the cam chain gear, and clearly see all the marks on the flywheel as they go by; I, H, and T. I and T are in a circle, and the H is shortly after the I. The manual says to match up the T which makes sense. The problem is, non of them will line up with the top timing mark.

Is there anyway that we put this engine together slightly off? I can't remember specifics on the inside, but I believe the cam gear is fixed to the cam, so that has to go in a certain way, and I know the flywheel has a key guide since I had to spend several hours fishing it out of the lower engine when the old man dropped it into the case. So to me I can't think of why these will not line up. It's very aggrivating.

I'm assuming TDC is at one of the two harder to turn spots....anyway to tell which?
All you need to do it line the "T" up with the little notch in the bottom inspection port. I don't believe there is a mark in the top port that lines up when you have the motor at TDC. The three marks you see flying by in the top hole are used when setting the timing during reassembly and that is done with the valve cover off, of course. The two lines need to be parallel with the top of the jug and the little dot will be at the top of the cam gear. But if you're just checking the valves, don't bother with the top inspection hole at all. BTW, the motor will want to roll past the "T" mark when you're lining it up. I use a long breaker bar with a socket on the end and a spring clamp, when I get the "T" mark where it needs to be I clamp the breaker bar right to the frame behind the footpeg and it stays.

Oops, I see you've already figured this out. If you get the "T" lined up and all the valves are really tight, roll the flywheel over 360 degrees and try again. They should be loose.
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:52 PM   #191
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Not sure if mission accomplished. Something good did come of it though; the valves were the culprit of the oil depravation noise or so it seems atleast. Once adjusted it now didn't have the noise. However, now I feel like I can hear the valves too much. Maybe it's normal, but I had to loosen each valve to make the clearances work. I made the exhaust set to roughly .13mm and I set the intake to roughly .06mm. The engine starts and runs fine, just you can definitely hear the valves now.

I'm stopping by my mechanic tomorrow so he can have a listen. I also need a new wheel weight since one fell off.
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:39 AM   #192
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Yup, a bit loose on the valves as confirmed by my mechanic. Bleh. He said if it is running fine it isn't terrible but that they are definitely too loose. He let me borrow his 10mm valve tool so I should have it done properly tomorrow morning, he's the man.

Next I get to clean and set the floats in the carb. Then I can ride the bike more than I work on it
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:05 AM   #193
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Valve tool? Pic please?
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:53 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt_sr
Valve tool? Pic please?


Looks like this and is made by a company with the name similar to "Sports motion" or something. They have a stand at cycle gear but I can't search for the company on work's computer as almost everything is blocked by websense.

EDIT: Motion Pro is the company. Blue Packaging.

EDIT EDIT: Found it: http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/...t--614608.html
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:52 PM   #195
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Kewl, let us know what you think of it (worth $40 or not)?
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