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Old 05-04-2010, 10:43 AM   #271
XTwarrior OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt_sr
Oh yeah, you've entered the machinist's realm now (nice pics b.t.w., how do you post pics here?) Unless you're willing to learn some new skills and purchase some new tools, I'ld go find a good machinist. Do that leak test I was talking about. I'm willing to bet that all four of your valves aren't seating (from the burn pattern I see) and that the loose bolt is definitely gonna come into play here. Hopefully, if the head isn't warped, a new gasket and torqueing all your bolts will fix any blowby but, you need an expert here (to at least measure/replain your head).
I thought you had a manual? Setting the timing isn't as hard as it is intimidating. I decided to pull the jug and the piston so that all three areas could be reworked (valves, cylinder, rings). I figured it was smart to "get'r done" while she was this far down.

I hope that 'loose bolt' isn't actually stripped... whole nuther can o'worms...
Newt: I see you figured out the pictures part


As for what you suggested, I am going to take it to a mechanic tomorrow morning for him to check the valve seating and cam wear. I'm also going to show him the pictures I took. He's factory certified so I imagine he'd have a good idea what to do. I am admittedly intimidated by timing and thus destroying my engine. I do have a manual though so I know I can do it, just not a fan of trying for the first time on my daily rider

As for the bolt, it didn't look stripped so that's hopeful.

I like the lightweight mods you did to the XT
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:56 AM   #272
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Yup, she's a screamer

(not the bolt, the threads in the hole)
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:11 PM   #273
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Anybody???

Is there enough room to re-assemble the jug and cylinder head with the lower end still attached to the bike? I'm thinking I can re-assemble my bike while I'm waiting on the machine work being done.
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:07 PM   #274
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Originally Posted by newt_sr
Is there enough room to re-assemble the jug and cylinder head with the lower end still attached to the bike? I'm thinking I can re-assemble my bike while I'm waiting on the machine work being done.
I do all my work with the motor in the frame. I had to remove all the bolts holding the engine in, but I never had to remove the actual engine. I just moved it around a little and the valve cover came off out of the right side.
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:41 AM   #275
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Good news everybody!

Took the topend to my mechanic and had him give it a look over.

So far, he said the cams and the journals look good. There is no scoring of either the cam lobes, tappets, or the journals. What looks like scraping on the journals is actually machining marks, and they are all uniform in pattern. Someone suggested the hard surface had worn through but in actuality the surface is fine and not worn through.

The valves were checked for seating and they did not leak, so they are seating fine. Still, we are going to lapp the valves for good measure. The valve guides seem fine as he checked the feel and play and there was very little and the seals look healthy even at a ripe age of 29 years. No cracking and they are still flexible. I cleaned all the carbon off the valves and the head and it is looking mighty healthy now. We still have to do the 2 exhaust side valves but it is looking very promising at this point.

At this point my mechanic is confident the gasket leak from the cam chain into the cylinder is the culprit for most of my oil puffs and consumption. He also theorizes that the starvation on start up could be caused because of pressure interferences from the leaking gasket, but it remains to be seen if that is the case. There was definitely a difference in gasket surface between the healthy mated surface and the lifted surface, and even some caramel colored marks under the gasket where oil stained the surface.

So, in conclusion my head is still healthy and my valves seem strong yet. I'm ordering a new gasket today and we will see how that goes. I just hope I can remember how to put it back together when we are done cleaning everything

EDIT: How hard are valve seals to install? I'm thinking of getting new ones just because it would give me a peace of mind and it is only another $15 while i have it apart.
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:21 PM   #276
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(1983 + 29 = 2010 ?)

Think of the added horsepower... yeah.

Valve guides seals are easy enough when the head is apart. Shouldn't you be getting them down to your mechanic while he's lapping the valves?

newt_sr screwed with this post 05-05-2010 at 01:11 PM
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:22 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt_sr





(1983 + 29 = 2010 ?)

Think of the added horsepower... yeah.

Valve guides seals are easy enough when the head is apart. Shouldn't you be getting them down to your mechanic while he's lapping the valves?
Well, my math is horrible as evidenced by my failing of Algebra 2

As for the valve seals, they are on order. My mechanic is a cool dude, so he's letting me just keep the stuff at his shop until they come in. He's slow right now so he doesn't mind a 2x2 foot area being used for now. He even showed me and let me lap my own valves a little bit

Here are some updated pictures. The amount of carbon I removed from the inside cannot be justified by photos. I've had poorly maintaned briggs and strattons that were clean compared to the inside of this combustion chamber.

We did deduce the gasket leak messed with the seat on the exhaust side valve. There was alot of deposits and carbon around and inside the port, and the valve seat had lots of black deposits on it. I can't imagine the seat liked that much.

[img][/img]



Here's a pic of the exhaust valves pulled out a little to show some of the lapping. The exhaust side valves had a little bit of play in the guides but my mechanic said it is nothing to worry about yet.

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Old 05-09-2010, 09:16 PM   #278
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so, what's the latest?


I see somebody got a 'barely used' CDI unit for $49.99 USD on Ebay.
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:40 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt_sr
so, what's the latest?


I see somebody got a 'barely used' CDI unit for $49.99 USD on Ebay.
For me nothing. I am waiting for the cylinder gasket to come in. Freaking Bike Bandit is dragging their feet. I did get the Viton Valve seals in the mail so just waiting on that. For the fender I think I am going to just trace out a design on the front, cut it a few inches shorter in the front and re-inforce the structure so it doesn't wobble in the wind. I may or may not have dropped the XT on myself when working on it a few weeks ago and brokent he mount for the fender....so I may or may not need to cut a 1/4" chunk of steel to bolt under it for structure
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:57 AM   #280
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Glad to hear it's a (relatively) easy fix!

Word of advice, see that hollow dowel on the top of the cylinder opposite the cam chain side? That is the hole oil flows up through to get to the head. That dowel will pull right out of the cylinder (sometimes fall out) and there is a little rubber o-ring around it. DO NOT PUT THE HEAD BACK ON WITHOUT THAT O-RING IN PLACE!

I did it once. The oil is under a lot of pressure and it ends up pushing past the head gasket and down the right hand side of the motor when it is running. It won't get into the cumbustion chamber, the metal portion of the head gasket prevents that, but your bike will smoke like no tommorrow as the oil burns off the cooling fins.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:11 PM   #281
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Originally Posted by XT_Driftwood
Glad to hear it's a (relatively) easy fix!

Word of advice, see that hollow dowel on the top of the cylinder opposite the cam chain side? That is the hole oil flows up through to get to the head. That dowel will pull right out of the cylinder (sometimes fall out) and there is a little rubber o-ring around it. DO NOT PUT THE HEAD BACK ON WITHOUT THAT O-RING IN PLACE!

I did it once. The oil is under a lot of pressure and it ends up pushing past the head gasket and down the right hand side of the motor when it is running. It won't get into the cumbustion chamber, the metal portion of the head gasket prevents that, but your bike will smoke like no tommorrow as the oil burns off the cooling fins.
Lol, I'll try to remember that. I don't remember seeing a rubber ring. You mean from the picture above right? Where you see the cylinder bolts but there is one hole open in the top (of the picture)?

EDIT: This one:

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Old 05-13-2010, 12:23 PM   #282
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Nope, it's in the top of the cylinder. It fits into that hole in the head at 12 o'clock in your photo.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:31 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTwarrior






.
You can see it clearly in this photo. If you were to pull up on that cone-shaped dowel on the right, it would slid right out of there. The rubber sleeve is around the dowel. Actually, I don't know that "dowel" is the correct term, but that's what I call it. But I've also been know to call an 8 lb hand maul a "wrench" too .
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:44 PM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XT_Driftwood
You can see it clearly in this photo. If you were to pull up on that cone-shaped dowel on the right, it would slid right out of there. The rubber sleeve is around the dowel. Actually, I don't know that "dowel" is the correct term, but that's what I call it. But I've also been know to call an 8 lb hand maul a "wrench" too .
Ok I got it. I didn't remove either so I guess I should be fine. I started to worry I had screwed something up. Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:08 PM   #285
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Have a buddy that just picked up a virtually pristine 1977 XT500 and really doesn't want to keep it. Its the dark brown color with only 3000 miles on it,all stock except the tirezs were dry rotted,but he still has them. Whats it worth and is anyone interested ? Dover,PA.
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