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Old 03-03-2010, 09:43 PM   #181
Tallboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikonsAndVStroms
This one will be a big pain, just so I can get a better idea what camera are you shooting with and is it Jpeg or RAW (the reason I ask is different sensor sizes allow for more dynamic range, as well as a difference in how they recover shadows or highlights).

I like this location a lot
that was shot on my D40 in jpeg.

I'm just now starting to get ready to shoot in RAW - the more I've read, the more I am realizing it'll help the type of low light images I like to shoot. I've balked up until now because I've just associated RAW with post processing, which I don't enjoy...so I've just shot jpeg and been done with it after the click. ignorance.

I can now shoot RAW & jpeg and store on two different cards and keep them separate for different uses. D300s. just need to start doing it.

fire away. please.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:55 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallboy
that was shot on my D40 in jpeg.

I'm just now starting to get ready to shoot in RAW - the more I've read, the more I am realizing it'll help the type of low light images I like to shoot. I've balked up until now because I've just associated RAW with post processing, which I don't enjoy...so I've just shot jpeg and been done with it after the click. ignorance.

I can now shoot RAW & jpeg and store on two different cards and keep them separate for different uses. D300s. just need to start doing it.

fire away. please.
I still shoot with Jpeg most of the time so no worries, but with Nikon you will get a lot more out of raw files (my Fuji/Olympus have much better Jpeg engines). The D300 should have a bit more room on top of that so your next time out should give a better example in what is needed, also how still is the area (wind wise) could you do an HDR?

This is just a pain since you have the foreground in shadow, the clouds are somewhat dark and then this brights trip in the middle so filters wouldn't help much.

If you can borrow a Fuji S5 Pro that would work
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:03 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikonsAndVStroms
I still shoot with Jpeg most of the time so no worries, but with Nikon you will get a lot more out of raw files (my Fuji/Olympus have much better Jpeg engines). The D300 should have a bit more room on top of that so your next time out should give a better example in what is needed, also how still is the area (wind wise) could you do an HDR?

This is just a pain since you have the foreground in shadow, the clouds are somewhat dark and then this brights trip in the middle so filters wouldn't help much.

If you can borrow a Fuji S5 Pro that would work
Yeah, the closest real camera shop is 4.5 hrs away in any one direction.

It's pretty rare for a calm day here. very rare.

I've shot this place with filters in the morning (did I tell you those three shots were sunrise light? ) since I took those, but with mixed results because I wasn't happy with the soft transition of ND that I had. I've since gotten some more filters to work with, but just haven't been out when the light was right to do so.

I am anxious to do some proper shooting and be able to save both file formats at the same time and be able to compare and see what I've been missing.
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:31 AM   #184
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Originally Posted by Tallboy
Yeah, the closest real camera shop is 4.5 hrs away in any one direction.

It's pretty rare for a calm day here. very rare.

I've shot this place with filters in the morning (did I tell you those three shots were sunrise light? ) since I took those, but with mixed results because I wasn't happy with the soft transition of ND that I had. I've since gotten some more filters to work with, but just haven't been out when the light was right to do so.

I am anxious to do some proper shooting and be able to save both file formats at the same time and be able to compare and see what I've been missing.
Ok this could work or fail horribly and is fully experimental

Take 2 ND graduated filters, have them on in reverse directions to take down the top and bottom leaving that middle area in both clear sections, the issue will be how bad the line from the filters will be. If you stand back some and zoom in as much as possible you might be able to miss them.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:58 PM   #185
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I'm using a D40 with the cheap lenses that came with it. Can you give me a suggestion for a lense in the 70-200 or so range for under say, $500?

Less would be better.
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Old 03-05-2010, 02:11 PM   #186
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I have a sigma 70-200 2.8 that I bought for under $500. Here is a good review on it-
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...ns-Review.aspx


You could also look at the Canon 70-200L 4.0. Prob the best buy out there. Usually can find one for under $500. I was going to buy it, but I ended up buying the Sigma because the f2.8. Another review.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...ns-Review.aspx


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot
I'm using a D40 with the cheap lenses that came with it. Can you give me a suggestion for a lense in the 70-200 or so range for under say, $500?

Less would be better.
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Old 03-05-2010, 02:43 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikonsAndVStroms
The filter here is a bit strong giving it that standard "filtered with photoshop" look, I would play around more since you either want the image to be so well filtered that it pops otherwise make it more subdued to add to the initial image.

Also if you could have a only few more pixels added to the top of that image since right now the top few hairs are cropped off. You don't need much negative space up there but just clear those hairs with a few pixels to spare.
Which image? The only thing I did in GIMP (i hate photochop) is switching to grayscale. ???
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Old 03-05-2010, 02:55 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot
I'm using a D40 with the cheap lenses that came with it. Can you give me a suggestion for a lense in the 70-200 or so range for under say, $500?

Less would be better.
Just keep in mind that you will have to buy a lens with its own focusing motor or you won't have AF. The Sigma designation for this feature is HSM.
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Old 03-05-2010, 04:19 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallboy
Just keep in mind that you will have to buy a lens with its own focusing motor or you won't have AF. The Sigma designation for this feature is HSM.
very important when getting a lense fro your rig Pilot

I had a cheap-ish (300-350 approx) 28-300 sigma. Was not the fastest, but was light and a good travel lense with a good reach in zoom. If you are shooting in well lite areas some fo the cheaper glass might be the value option. 2.8 glass is great but very spendy. Some of the vibration reduction stuff is good and will help out a bit.
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:53 PM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa




Which image? The only thing I did in GIMP (i hate photochop) is switching to grayscale. ???
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:57 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot
I'm using a D40 with the cheap lenses that came with it. Can you give me a suggestion for a lense in the 70-200 or so range for under say, $500?

Less would be better.
No worries, a few of my best images were taken with a D50 (same sensor) with dirt dirt cheap lenses.

The big thing is to stop down a little bit and even "bad" lenses will work great, basically all that extra money is being spent on being sharp while wide open (and/or being able to open up that little bit more).

Because it is a D40 as was mentioned you need something that has a built in motor which limits your choices.

So since less will be better here are the 3 things to consider, price, maximum aperture, focus speed. How would you list these in level of importance?
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Old 03-06-2010, 03:47 PM   #192
Tallboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot
I'm using a D40 with the cheap lenses that came with it. Can you give me a suggestion for a lense in the 70-200 or so range for under say, $500?

Less would be better.
Nikon's 18-200 AF-S VR is a pretty popular all-arounder and would make a very good single-lens travel option. A little over your budget, but it would take the place of your 18-55 kit lens and the 70-200 you are wanting.
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:02 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by NikonsAndVStroms
That was the whole purpose -- to make it abstract. Why don't you post some of your images so that we can discuss them.
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:14 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by a1fa
That was the whole purpose -- to make it abstract. Why don't you post some of your images so that we can discuss them.

He did - earlier in the thread.
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:45 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa
That was the whole purpose -- to make it abstract. Why don't you post some of your images so that we can discuss them.
Don't get mad because he criticized your pic.....that's what he said he would do.

It is his thread and he did offer to critique any photo you'd like to post.

Although there are some really great photos being posted here I don't think it's really meant to be a competition. If so I've really made a fool out of myself.

I posted a few early on that I in no way consider to be my best pics...just ones that I couldn't figure out. Meaning sometimes I liked 'em, sometimes not so much. I was simply taking the OP up on his offer to critique them hoping it would help me put a finger on just what it was about those pics.
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