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Old 03-04-2010, 10:45 PM   #16
FlyRescue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomaDakota
Man, that macro shot makes those gnarly tool marks look sexy as hell.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:23 AM   #17
nanno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulRS
It all started with the old BMW R12, or R71, which was used in the wwII Blitz to Moskou.
Paul, you know that this isn't entirely precise, right or better to say, this is one of the urban myths. Basically, the Wehrmacht used the (much newer) R75 and Zündapp for the war against Russia as the old R12 and R71 were long taken out of service and most likely some found their way from Norway via Sweden to Russia.

@FlyRescue:

You know, that you can adapt the Type2-Ural-Ignition for the 6V system, you just need a different coil (any proper 3 Ohm, 6Volt , dual outlet coil will do).

Bike is looking nice. If you google about MW750 you will find quite a few german pages about the bike.

Cheers,
Greg - former Dnepr MT11 and MT16 rider...
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:09 AM   #18
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[quote=RomaDakota]Alrightly, I’ll try one of these things.

Intro:
My Russification started years ago; the spreading into the motorcycle world started with a Dnepr purchased years ago. I used it for a daily rider for years... then there were more. This particular story is about my MV750. For many a Soviet/Russian moto-fan, this model is desirable; produced in the 60’s at the Kiev Motorcycle Factory for the Soviet military with a 750cc flattie and all the cool military trinkets including differential 2WD with a locking lever for full time 2WD. One became available last year - I snagged it not caring about condition. Few days later, off to Colorado to bring her back to Kansas.

Home




The mounting on the hack is for the Kalishnakov?...
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:32 AM   #19
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The AK goes inside the hack

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Old 03-05-2010, 08:40 AM   #20
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My ride to work this morning. Nice to be riding again - the winter has been brutal.


Back to the MV story.
With the good comes the bad. The initial home inspection found a lot of good however from this photo of the final drive you may notice - no locking control; some говнюк (govnuk) snaked my MV final drive!
I am pretty certain of the candidate, oh well. Any-a-ways I have a solution for that - stay tuned.


Prepping for start:
Manuals read, valves adjusted, carbs cleaned. Timing... well virtually no mention of the method in the manuals (English or Russian). Unlike the OHV Dneprs and Urals, the Soviet flatties did not have sight holes in the engine case and marks on the flywheels for timing purposes. Timing altogether is a bit different on these. Here is the control mechanism on the handle bars.

Referred to as the “manual advance” a lot of times, it is more precisely a “manual retard” as the mechanism is sprung to go advanced. You pull back on the lever to retard the timing for starting then release lever and timing goes advanced for rest of running cycle. On this bike, you only set the max advance and max retard settings down on the points plate. Again, no mention of method in manuals. So I do the calculations to convert degrees of advance into piston travel and pull the head to determine TDC and use a micrometer to set the piston at this calculated point and then adjust the points plate. Also for fun, I made a timing wheel. Both methods matched each other so I was confident.

I was happy to see this stamp on the cylinder.


Time to button all up and attempt a start...
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:13 AM   #21
mark883
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You poor, poor sucker. Hopefully your relatives won't have you also judged mentally incompetent.



Fortunately, you don't have the uglyass turnsignals to deal with.
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:31 AM   #22
Renner
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I thought the Soviets were licensed to build the R71 (MV750) back when they were allied with the Germans, who already had moved on to the R75 by then.

Nicht Wahr?
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:49 AM   #23
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You hear it both ways -
1) Germans licensed the R71 to the Soviets during the non-aggression act (Germans had moved on to the R75)
2) Soviets bought them and transported them home via Switzerland.

This machine is known as the M72 - plunger frame. I have one of those as well... civi-version


Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner
I thought the Soviets were licensed to build the R71 (MV750) back when they were allied with the Germans, who already had moved on to the R75 by then.

Nicht Wahr?
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark883
You poor, poor sucker. Hopefully your relatives won't have you also judged mentally incompetent.
Nice lookin machine! How does she run?
Yes, they know I am sick. I know I'm sick. Somehow that makes everything better
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:34 AM   #25
mark883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomaDakota
Nice lookin machine! How does she run?
Yes, they know I am sick. I know I'm sick. Somehow that makes everything better
Doesn't run bad.... but it will run even better when I set the valves properly (PO had zero lash on the right side, no wonder that side didn't run as strong)

Plus, I'm gonna apply some special 'speed' techniques gleaned from racing karts with 5hp Briggs flathead engines. They're essentially 'blueprinting' or machining to modern standards. I took the heads off, and this machine hasn't been rebuilt in a loooong time.

I'm planning on losing the ugly lights, but keeping the old rough primitive worn paint.

You have a very sweet looking machine with all the 'patina' Plus, the flatheads are just soooo much more better looking than the OHV engines.
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Old 03-06-2010, 01:31 PM   #26
MeRide
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Thanks for sharing your MV750, RomaDakota! Looks like a fine old machine. I'm looking forward to more details and photos. One doesn't get to see a machine like this one very often and not in this detail. Nice to get a look at the factory stampings, close up of the spark retard, etc. Have you figured out what year it is?
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:49 PM   #27
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Compression checked, timing set, carbs roughly set. New plug wires, fuel hoses and fresh oil in the sump. The electrical system in bad shape, the wiring harness had seen better days. Not only that, it seems the PO went a little creative once he was faced with replacing the switch in the headlight bucket, lamp toggle switches.

Inside the headlight bucket was a mess including house-grade wiring and even connections done with wire nuts! I knew a harness would be in the future. But hey I am ready to hear this flattie run! Off to the local “batteries out the ass” store to fetch a 6V battery – not as hard as I expected. Placed new battery on the charger and I wired around things to get power to the coil.
Now we have a weekly guy-get-together where the guys hang out and wrench on their junk, drink beer and tell lies; you know it helps get everyone through the week and occasionally something actually gets fixed.

I timed the battery so it would be charged and ready to go for hangout time. A few wiring changes and few Balticas for the occasion… and I am ready to kick her to life!
Fuel on, carbs tickled and a couple of kicks with power off to pull in some mixture. Power on (jumper wire), throttle cracked… One kick, two kicks – boom, it fires! Now this caught me a bit off guard as I was not expecting it to come to life so easily. Third kick and she fires right up and catches! Smoke starts to puff outta the mufflers as I had put some oil in the cylinders ahead of time. Not running perfectly but on both cylinders! I let it run a bit before shutting it down. A cold beer and cheers all around pay homage to the moment.
After the beer, time to start again and dial in the carbs and monitor head temps etc. Starts on first kick – great sign! Still poppin smoke and running a bit rough. Some adjustments to the idle stop screws calms the idle speed. Some playing around with the cables get the off-idle response fairly compliant. But something just doesn’t sound right; kinda like a ringing sound coming from the upper portion of the gear tower. Common on the horizontally opposed Soviet bikes, the generator (or alternator) is gear driven off the cam gear. So from bottom to top you have the crank gear, cam gear then the genny gear. Having the gear lash too loose on the genny can make the gears quite noisey. So I loosen the generator and start the engine again.

Rotate the genny in one direction will increase the lash and the other direction with decrease the lash. Having done this a few times, I have a feel for it and the noises will change accordingly. The lash does change audibly as it should however the ringing remains. Dang, what is that? To eliminate gear noises, I remove the generator and start it again. Ringing remains, I kill the engine. Then I kick it over slowly with power off – you can hear a rattle from the gear tower. I have a thought. I probe the gear tower from the hole left by my removed generator. Yep, the timed breather is loose. The front engine cover must come off. Time for another beer.
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Old 03-07-2010, 04:36 PM   #28
mark883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomaDakota
Compression checked, timing set, carbs roughly set. New plug wires, fuel hoses and fresh oil in the sump. The electrical system in bad shape, the wiring harness had seen better days. Not only that, it seems the PO went a little creative once he was faced with replacing the switch in the headlight bucket, lamp toggle switches.

Inside the headlight bucket was a mess including house-grade wiring and even connections done with wire nuts! I knew a harness would be in the future.

..... Time for another beer.
Oh garsh.. you're giving me flashbacks- I worked on my Communist rats nest inside my headlight today... it was just a bit fubar. Not bad, just wrong. As in no headlight- ever. Not that a headlight makes much difference on these bikes.

My hi/low beam switch is junk as well- I've thought about the toggle switch. What are your thoughts? (Besides 'time for another beer') Your thread could come in handy!

Great thread so far- I'll follow closely. BTW, am I allowed to intrude on your thread in this manner, or is it bad form? Do I need to get my own Old Red POS Bike thread?
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:15 PM   #29
jeep44
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You're gonna need a really thick,soft gasket for that carb flange...
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:33 PM   #30
RomaDakota OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark883
My hi/low beam switch is junk as well- I've thought about the toggle switch. What are your thoughts? (Besides 'time for another beer') Your thread could come in handy!

Great thread so far- I'll follow closely. BTW, am I allowed to intrude on your thread in this manner, or is it bad form? Do I need to get my own Old Red POS Bike thread?
No worries - the more the merrier in this thread. I know us Soviet junk lovin' types tend to stick to ourselves.
On the light - I have two lame suggestions
1) Wire the bright on all the time - hey it is a 6V bright and should almost be enough light to drive 40 kph once dark.
2) Get the real switch. Not really that expensive and the bright/dim cable control is just f'in cool!
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