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Old 10-03-2010, 03:40 PM   #541
ping
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Grease your wheel bearings, alternator brushes, starter brushes.
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:17 PM   #542
F.P.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

The main downfall of the DR650 are two fold:
1. NSU screws come loose and fall into crankcase. Disaster.
2. 3rd gear has a preponderance to fail.

.
You forgot #3....Jammin Jay! Suzuki has already offered to buy him a new KLR.
Read his Alaska trip or his last days in the US on this trip!
(just fuggin with ya Jay!)
Good Luck and fer chrissakes get a new needle jet!
Chris
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:04 AM   #543
Erik500
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I think you're doing fine, but I do miss pics !!
Take care.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:26 PM   #544
Jammin OP
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Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
Oh shit! Yes, now I remember you mentioning this carb. Snowmobile sounds right. But hey, its been working well so far? And pretty good MPG too! All good.
Yeah, this carb improves throttle response and sounds great plus 50 mpg with 600+ lbs!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
The needle is working up until about 3/4 throttle ... and even a bit beyond.

Jay, you know more than you think. Your instincts are excellent and your seat of the pants is good to. Just start trying things. Don't let this crap distract you from having a good time. Try to do just one change at a time.
This will isolate the problem .... hopefully. Best of luck on this, stay safe!
Great, thanks for clarifying that. Funny that I didn't associate a shortened needle with throttle issues. See that's the thing, I know to trust my instincts in most cases but what Im lacking is experience in these matters. Like throttle response not feeling good - frayed cable. But hey, how else are these youngins supposed to get experience without actually doing it for real. I'm going to be an excellent DR650 mechanic by the end of this trip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WOXOF
What Adv Grifter said.

Especially the part about 1 change at a time.

If the change/fix doesn't fix the problem, put it back the way it was and make another (new) change/fix.
Proper Troubleshooting takes time to be done right, but the benefits out weight the time spent.

Get those exams done, then you have plenty of time to worry about the bike.
Yup, no fears. Root-causing/trouble-shooting mechanical problems was what I did as a corporate engineering monkey for 5 years. 1 fix at a time, taking it nice and slow.

and YEAH! I'm done with my exams Went pretty good but haven't written an essay since high school so lots of writing these past few days My index finger and thumb hurts Somebody give me a wrench.

Now, I can finally turn my attention to sanDRina and work on posting pix. My package from my sister finally arrived with a brand new heavy duty clutch kit (along with fresh spices from my mom ). Current clutch is in its last few days. Sourcing parts (battery and needle) and replacing the clutch tomorrow.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:50 PM   #545
WOXOF
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Congrats on finishing your exams.


Now you can get back to some serious adventure riding.
once the bike is sorted out
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:56 PM   #546
Jammin OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
No real surprise here. The DR uses a very small battery. You just used up its cranking amps. Try to get a Japan made battery ... if you can ... sealed MF type if possible. When you start, remember to SHUT OFF all accessories before hitting button. (I know you KNOW all this already!! )

Good luck on the exams! You have a wonderful and joyous attitude about travel. If only all of us could be so patient and Stoic about being broken down! Good on ya Jay!
Hmm, and I thought monitoring the battery voltage was good enough to ensure long battery life. Need to find an amp-meter tomorrow. Yup, that was one of my main reasons behind the mondo switch box - to put a switch for the main headlight and get easy access to all electricals so that I could turn them off when starting the bike. But then I got carried away and put a swtich for everything

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
1. Shock
Are you running the stock Shock? Cogent upgraded? Aftermarket?
No reason for it to fail. Stock shock holds up well and seldom leak or blows seals. Not the best performance (poor rebound damping) but reliable in general.
Im running a Larry Roeseler Signature Series 420 shock. Again, non-standard application. Looks like it was designed for KLRs, but previous owner installed it and hey, it's been working great. I totally expected the rear shock to blow by now especially after so much wash-board on the Transamazonica and my heavy weight. I cranked up the pre-load in Costa Rica and again in Peru so that it doesn't bottom out with all my weight, makes the bike taller, but handles just fine.

But can you clarify if cranking up the spring will reduce chances of blowing out the seal when I hit bit bumps?

And is there something I can do to service the rear shock? Recharge the nitrogen? Is changing the oil an easy process?

I think I really want to carry a spare shock with me into Africa... Most RTWers that I've met on this trip have blown a rear shock at some point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
2. Wheel bearings.
DR wheel bearings generally hold up well (WAY better than KLR, F650 BMW
and many other bikes) but still, lots of rain riding, off road bashing, mud, will wear them out around 30 to 40,000 miles. So get ready. Use quality Japanese or German bearings. (Koyo, SKF, Timkin)

3. Steering head bearings: Possible but unlikely to fail unless you do lots of wheelies. (I doubt you do) But pulling apart, inspect and apply fresh grease is not a bad idea. (upper and lower bearings) Do NOT over tighten.
If you remember, I installed new All Balls bearings before the trip and they crapped out in Peru at 15,000 miles. I've installed new SKF bearings and am caring a spare set.

Steering head bearings were replaced about 28,000 miles ago (before CDR) with factory parts. Maybe Ill order a set for the next care package.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
4. Starter Motor ... these have been known to fail on the DR650, especially if lots of water ingress happens or stored outside. You can take it apart, clean, grease and replace brushes. Spraying internally with WD40 once in a while will not hurt.

5. Stator: If battery is being stressed over long periods ... then the Stator Regulator/Rectifier can be stressed as well. The Stator is expensive. A NEW battery every 6 months to a year is cheap insurance on the road to protect your Stator.
Good call on the starter motor. Ill see what I can do about it tomorrow (got access to a local mechanic). How exactly do I spray WD40 inside? Where's the access?
Yeah, was worried about stator when battery died. Ok, will try to check amps on battery more often, to monitor health.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
6. Wiring Loom: Watch for abraded wires up near the steering head. Back and forth movement can wear through plastic sheath, exposing wires to wear. Clean and use Di-lectric grease on all plug together connectors. This will reduce corrosion and ingress of water.
Wiring loom was beefed up before the trip with plastic tubing in places where it might wear and di-electric grease was applied to all connections. Probably time for a re-application.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
7. Cush Drive Rubber Inserts: On the DR these wear out at about 20,000 miles. New Rubbers smooth out the DR, improve shifting and reduce vibration.
I'm not familiar with this. Where exactly are the cush drive rubber inserts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
8. Clutch Cable: Good for about 40,000 miles at least.
Spare clutch cable zip-tied to original, ready to replace as needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
9. Check Frame, Sub Frame for any cracks.
Frame looks good but sub frame got a nice crack in it when bike fell over in gas station with force of pannier making a clean break in the sub frame. Welder fixed it up real good and no cracks so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
10. Valve adjustments: Have you noticed your valves tightening up when you check clearances? Have you had to make Big adjustments when you check valve clearance? If not, then you are not getting much wear in that area. Good news.
I've checked valves 2 times so far and no adjustments were needed. Intake is supposed to get tighter and exhaust looser, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
The main downfall of the DR650 are two fold:
1. NSU screws come loose and fall into crankcase. Disaster.
2. 3rd gear has a preponderance to fail.

In the five years or so that I've followed DR650 forums, I've heard of maybe six 3rd gear failures and another six NSU related failures. This out of many thousands of owners out there who post online. On the internet we always hear the worst. Fact is, most DR riders never go on line and most never have these major sort of problems when tracking this bike since 1996.
I've tightened the NSU screws and am hoping the motorcycle gods dont curse me with a 3rd gear failure.
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J A Y on a 98 Suzuki DR650SE (sanDRina)

Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:59 PM   #547
WarLlama
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Did you check the fluid levels of your battery? I know a long trip will overcharge the battery and boil away the acid solution.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:10 PM   #548
Jammin OP
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Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ping
Grease your wheel bearings, alternator brushes, starter brushes.
Wheel bearings sealed but yeah, need to service the brushes. thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by F.P.
You forgot #3....Jammin Jay! Suzuki has already offered to buy him a new KLR.
Read his Alaska trip or his last days in the US on this trip!
(just fuggin with ya Jay!)
Good Luck and fer chrissakes get a new needle jet!
Chris
I would sell that KLR in a heart beat and buy me a good ol used DR650
I love ya man, my bmw-koolaid-drinking riding buddy

You see this is some reverse psychology at work - Suzuki better buy me a new DR650 before word spreads that there's this old rackety zook failing all over South America

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik500
I think you're doing fine, but I do miss pics !!
Take care.
Yes, sorry, but had to neglect that bit in the past few weeks. Pix coming soon. Hang on

Quote:
Originally Posted by WOXOF
Congrats on finishing your exams.


Now you can get back to some serious adventure riding.
once the bike is sorted out
Thanks. Had some single malt scotch to cheers the moment

Riding's going to have wait. Need to slog away on the comp to post pix before you guys fall asleep

and bureaucratic stress ahead. Need to get visas and was shot down once already for Paraguay and Bolivia.
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Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:13 PM   #549
Jammin OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarLlama
Did you check the fluid levels of your battery? I know a long trip will overcharge the battery and boil away the acid solution.
It was a sealed, maintenance free type battery and I didn't think you could check the levels in that kind of battery.

Wait, are you saying sending too much charge to the battery is not good for long term battery health? I rode with my main headlight off most of the time and only used a 10 W Solstice LED light, so battery was getting around 13.4 V most of the time while riding.
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Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:26 PM   #550
WarLlama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
It was a sealed, maintenance free type battery and I didn't think you could check the levels in that kind of battery.

Wait, are you saying sending too much charge to the battery is not good for long term battery health? I rode with my main headlight off most of the time and only used a 10 W Solstice LED light, so battery was getting around 13.4 V most of the time while riding.
You are right you cannot check the levels in those types, but a maintenance free battery can still be over charged and will eventually end up dead from loss of electrolyte via the pressure release valves. A regular lead acid is better IMO for long trips, you just top up the fluid levels with tap water. At least its always worked well for me.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:48 PM   #551
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
Hmm, and I thought monitoring the battery voltage was good enough to ensure long battery life. Need to find an amp-meter tomorrow. Yup, that was one of my main reasons behind the mondo switch box - to put a switch for the main headlight and get easy access to all electricals so that I could turn them off when starting the bike. But then I got carried away and put a swtich for everything
Monitoring voltage should be enough. If your stator (you do not have an Alternator ...)
and Regulator/Rectifier are OK then you should be charging from about 13.8 to 14.5 volts. No worries about running with headlight OFF. Reg/Rect.
will shunt off excess voltage. Will NOT over cook battery unless something is wrong ... in which case your voltage monitor will show very high charge rate. Unlikely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
Im running a Larry Roeseler Signature Series 420 shock. Again, non-standard application. Looks like it was designed for KLRs, but previous owner installed it and hey, it's been working great. I totally expected the rear shock to blow by now especially after so much wash-board on the Transamazonica and my heavy weight. I cranked up the pre-load in Costa Rica and again in Peru so that it doesn't bottom out with all my weight, makes the bike taller, but handles just fine.
I remember Roeseler's company now. He did some specialty parts for KLR and other bikes. I can only assume it's the stock KLR KYB shock that Roeseler & Company have modified to suit. He does really good work from what I've heard. No wonder its working well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
But can you clarify if cranking up the spring will reduce chances of blowing out the seal when I hit bit bumps?
Should not really make a difference, although over time and miles of hard use, rebound damping can fade away.
KYB shocks rarely blow. Maybe you're talking to BMW guys? WP shocks crap out early, some Showa do (mostly ones on BMW), Wilbur's and even some Ohlins will go bad. KYB are probably the best in terms of longevity and ability to take a hammering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
And is there something I can do to service the rear shock? Recharge the nitrogen? Is changing the oil an easy process?
Yes, a shock specialist can do this. But requires special tools and knowledge. Since your shock has already been opened it should be a bit easier to get into. (Some Showa and KYB are very hard to service without special tools) No doubt Roeseler changed the shim stacks internally, re-charged and added fresh oil. Should last for at least 30,000 miles before needing major service. If you can, wait until you return to USA unless you find someone truly talented down there. Race Tech, for example, will charge about $150 to $200 to re-build it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
I think I really want to carry a spare shock with me into Africa... Most RTWers that I've met on this trip have blown a rear shock at some point.
IMHO, not required. As I've said, a freshening up should be all that is needed. Good for another 30,000 miles. Should cover Africa easily. Shocks are super heavy, a real pain to carry. Don't do it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
If you remember, I installed new All Balls bearings before the trip and they crapped out in Peru at 15,000 miles. I've installed new SKF bearings and am caring a spare set.
Good! I'll bet you never use them. If you rode in rain and mud a lot and crossed hundreds of creeks then I'd think different. Everything should last another 20,,000 with any luck at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
Steering head bearings were replaced about 28,000 miles ago (before CDR) with factory parts. Maybe Ill order a set for the next care package.
I would keep an eye on them, maybe re-grease. Feel for play or a notch. Spare set a good idea, IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
Good call on the starter motor. Ill see what I can do about it tomorrow (got access to a local mechanic). How exactly do I spray WD40 inside? Where's the access?
I think at one end. Been a long while since I had the DR starter apart. WD40 will not hurt anything inside, so spray away. Will only displace moisture. There are a couple places to grease inside ... not sure where. I'd have to see it. Ask on BIG DR thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
Yeah, was worried about stator when battery died. Ok, will try to check amps on battery more often, to monitor health.
Good. I'm sure it is fine. Try not to run it down too often. Fresh battery seems the key. MF sealed Japanese battery best, IMO. Get what you can, when you can.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
Wiring loom was beefed up before the trip with plastic tubing in places where it might wear and di-electric grease was applied to all connections. Probably time for a re-application.
I'm sure everything is fine. Won't hurt to have a quick look however.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
I'm not familiar with this. Where exactly are the cush drive rubber inserts?
The Cush Drive is part of the rear wheel hub.
When you get a flat you see those little rubber segmented pieced that fit snugly in the spaces in the hub? Cush Drive Rubbers. Over time they compress, get loose. They absorb shock from motor. Reduces chain/sprocket wear, bearing wear and mostly transmission wear. Its a very good thing. This is not totally critical but really does make the bike smoother. For some reason the DR wears them out. (Thumper)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
I've checked valves 2 times so far and no adjustments were needed. Intake is supposed to get tighter and exhaust looser, right?
They can go either way. Usually, if wearing, they tighten. Good news. The DR is very strong in this regard. 50,000 mile motor easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin
I've tightened the NSU screws and am hoping the motorcycle gods don't curse me with a 3rd gear failure.
I'll put in a good word for you Jay!
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:09 PM   #552
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarLlama
You are right you cannot check the levels in those types, but a maintenance free battery can still be over charged and will eventually end up dead from loss of electrolyte via the pressure release valves. A regular lead acid is better IMO for long trips, you just top up the fluid levels with tap water. At least its always worked well for me.
There is a good reason OEM's now only use sealed, MF batteries. Probably everyone but BMW use Japanese batteries. BMW have the worst electrical reliability in the business.

I H A T E conventional batteries ... stopped using them on motorcycles over 10 years ago. Nothing but trouble.

The fact is, a MF sealed battery will hold up to over charging better than a conventional Open Cell type, which boil off fluid in a day and is ruined, beyond saving. A sealed battery will handle this for quite a while and can recover, somewhat, and soldier on. Sealed battery is MUCH better in hot weather too. No boil off of electrolyte. Hot weather is hard on lead acid batteries.

Most ALL Japanese Sealed MF batteries are Lead Acid. Some tout GEL batteries. They are inferior to modern, sealed MF lead acid batteries like
Yuasa, Futaba and others. I used hundreds of them ... all kinds ... for 20 years in my recording business. Sealed lead acid batteries run ALL our digital equipment. Very very reliable.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:55 AM   #553
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
The fact is, a MF sealed battery will hold up to over charging better than a conventional Open Cell type, which boil off fluid in a day and is ruined, beyond saving. A sealed battery will handle this for quite a while and can recover, somewhat, and soldier on. Sealed battery is MUCH better in hot weather too. No boil off of electrolyte. Hot weather is hard on lead acid batteries.
In addition, wouldn't it make one a little nervous to lay a slosh battery on it's side like the DR battery is mounted?
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:35 PM   #554
Jammin OP
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Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
Oddometer: 1,527
Needle jet help

Ive spent all day at a top moto shop here in Sao Paulo and whole crew´s been working on my bike Got a lot of stuff done. But need help with the needle jet - couldn´t find an appropriate replacement, guys looked in all the moto shops. Looks like Im going to have to put it back in.

Chief mechanic here (certified KTM/Honda race mechanic) said I could go down a few steps on the main jet to compensate for the higher position of the needle jet. Im running a 270 now; go down to 220, 230?

Also, can you please help me in finding out if this needle jet is a stock jet in any other dirt bike? It´s a Mikuni P/N EJ6FJ4. Google turned up nothing. Like does it fit an older Honda CR or Yamaha bike?
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J A Y on a 98 Suzuki DR650SE (sanDRina)

Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:47 PM   #555
Jammin OP
Living on a DR
 
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
Oddometer: 1,527
Things accomplished on the bike today >
New EBC heavy duty clutch: fibre, steel plates and springs
Rear Shock rebuilt: new oil and nitrogen fill up
Front forks refresh: new oil, emulators fixed (spring blew), New Seal Savers (seals not changed, looks good)
WER Steering Damper refreshed: new oil
New steering head bearings: only brand was All Balls but I had a serious dent, notching in my old set
NGK CR9EK spark plugs (old ones not so black)
New Yuasa ETX9 Battery
Air filters cleaned and oiled
Front fender paint chips painted over (by helmet artist)
and an oil change and filter cleaning

Tomorrow we´re going to get to refreshing the starter motor, checking the stator, rectifier and wiring loom, valve check and seeing about the cush drive.

These guys are going all out to help me out
Can you think of anything else that I should get done?
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J A Y on a 98 Suzuki DR650SE (sanDRina)

Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos

Jammin screwed with this post 10-27-2010 at 01:43 PM
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