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Old 09-10-2014, 07:53 AM   #1
painterdude OP
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does the DNA filter work ?

I have seen numerous posts where people have said they were going to try the filter, and even seen that KTM is recommending it with specific greasing instructions in place of the paper filter in the 1190.
I would love to know how the filter actually works in real dusty situations. Seems a better option $ wise that the Rottweiler and less HP loss than the Uni..ie the best off all worlds if it works in the dirt ..that is. So what's been your experience?? Thanks in advance for any replies .
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:45 AM   #2
BRUNO BOTELHO
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I have one DNA and i like it a lot
Had no problems, engine breathes better and no HP loss.
Also no problem with the dust, and i do ride off road
But i keep my DNA cleaned and oiled, and that's the secret

But from what i read here and there, the Rottweiler system is very good, not just in dust conditions, but also in HP gains.
But i'm not feeling like spending that kind of money, for the moment
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:15 AM   #3
dragos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painterdude View Post
I have seen numerous posts where people have said they were going to try the filter, and even seen that KTM is recommending it with specific greasing instructions in place of the paper filter in the 1190.
I would love to know how the filter actually works in real dusty situations. Seems a better option $ wise that the Rottweiler and less HP loss than the Uni..ie the best off all worlds if it works in the dirt ..that is. So what's been your experience?? Thanks in advance for any replies .
I installed it on my 1190R but only went out for a short 400km trip since then. The trip involved a bit of dusty sections but I haven't opened my airbox yet to check.
Hope to do that soon.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:44 PM   #4
wilmar13
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Originally Posted by dragos View Post
I installed it on my 1190R but only went out for a short 400km trip since then. The trip involved a bit of dusty sections but I haven't opened my airbox yet to check.
Hope to do that soon.
Same here, I have more miles and more dust. I will probably get to looking at it this weekend.

I would not be surprised if instead of no power loss, there is actually a power gain over the stock paper filter, and the difference is huge over the Unifilter without socks! The throttle response is much more brisk. The better flow of the cotton mesh is most noticeable rolling on the gas, similar to less restrictive exhaust.

The DNA is the performance alternative to Unifilter. It will need to be cleaned and oiled more often (but maybe not) but it also brings back no effort roll-on wheelies in 3rd.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:35 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by wilmar13 View Post
Same here, I have more miles and more dust. I will probably get to looking at it this weekend.

I would not be surprised if instead of no power loss, there is actually a power gain over the stock paper filter, and the difference is huge over the Unifilter without socks! The throttle response is much more brisk. The better flow of the cotton mesh is most noticeable rolling on the gas, similar to less restrictive exhaust.

The DNA is the performance alternative to Unifilter. It will need to be cleaned and oiled more often (but maybe not) but it also brings back no effort roll-on wheelies in 3rd.

this is encouraging re dust and power ..The Rottweiler system is nearly 1/2 K and I would guess only marginally better?? It would be cool to see what a person who has tried both the DNA and the Rottweiler might say.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:14 PM   #6
wilmar13
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Well cost wise, the DNA filter can be "nearly 1/2K" cheaper than Rottweiler. (See your dealer, hint hint wink wink)
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:15 PM   #7
mousitsas
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It would be better if the DNA filter is more frequently oiled than cleaned!
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:05 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by wilmar13 View Post
Same here, I have more miles and more dust. I will probably get to looking at it this weekend.

I would not be surprised if instead of no power loss, there is actually a power gain over the stock paper filter, and the difference is huge over the Unifilter without socks! The throttle response is much more brisk. The better flow of the cotton mesh is most noticeable rolling on the gas, similar to less restrictive exhaust.

The DNA is the performance alternative to Unifilter. It will need to be cleaned and oiled more often (but maybe not) but it also brings back no effort roll-on wheelies in 3rd.

cool ..love to hear what you find when you look into the air box after running in dirt.
If the DNA works ..it is a good cheap fix ..and better than the Uni for power - 6 hp with the Uni is a non starter for me ..IF there is a good alternative,
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:21 PM   #9
wilmar13
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Originally Posted by painterdude View Post
cool ..love to hear what you find when you look into the air box after running in dirt.
If the DNA works ..it is a good cheap fix ..and better than the Uni for power - 6 hp with the Uni is a non starter for me ..IF there is a good alternative,
Will do. I still think the only problem with the airbox is the seal around the lid, and in my case was never the filter at all.

For me the problem with the Unifilter isn't the ~6hp loss at peak (or ~15 if you use the socks), it is the boggy response in the midrange. If you are only in dirt it probably isn't noticeable, and may actually be better (old school TC), but on the asphalt it sure is.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by wilmar13 View Post
Will do. I still think the only problem with the airbox is the seal around the lid, and in my case was never the filter at all.

For me the problem with the Unifilter isn't the ~6hp loss at peak (or ~15 if you use the socks), it is the boggy response in the midrange. If you are only in dirt it probably isn't noticeable, and may actually be better (old school TC), but on the asphalt it sure is.
I now use the Uni lid seal and DNA filter as I do 90% road work, total Uni setup did not work for me and the DNA is like night and day in power delivery on the road but that lid......must seal it.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:03 PM   #11
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I now use the Uni lid seal and DNA filter as I do 90% road work, total Uni setup did not work for me and the DNA is like night and day in power delivery on the road but that lid......must seal it.
awesome report ..Have you checked your air box since running with the DNA & Uni cover ??
Like I said , if the DNA works ..Rottweiler is redundant as is the UNI..unless those two can be shown to protect significantly better ..and so are worth the power loss in the Uni's case and worth the huge $$$ and possibly small power gains if any over the DNA, by the Rottweiler.
It would be interesting to see a dyno run with a DNA in a 1190.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painterdude View Post
awesome report ..Have you checked your air box since running with the DNA & Uni cover ??
Like I said , if the DNA works ..Rottweiler is redundant as is the UNI..unless those two can be shown to protect significantly better ..and so are worth the power loss in the Uni's case and worth the huge $$$ and possibly small power gains if any over the DNA, by the Rottweiler.
It would be interesting to see a dyno run with a DNA in a 1190.
Only done +-200km on tar since I fitted the DNA again, in a few weeks the wife and I are doing a +2000km tour and will be out last on the 1190 then I'll check.
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:56 PM   #13
painterdude OP
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Originally Posted by BRUNO BOTELHO View Post
I have one DNA and i like it a lot
Had no problems, engine breathes better and no HP loss.
Also no problem with the dust, and i do ride off road
But i keep my DNA cleaned and oiled, and that's the secret

But from what i read here and there, the Rottweiler system is very good, not just in dust conditions, but also in HP gains.
But i'm not feeling like spending that kind of money, for the moment
So Bruno it sounds like you have gone into dusty stuff and checked the filter ..No dust leakage ??
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:38 PM   #14
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Ok, I have almost 2k miles with the DNA installed, ~300 miles of that is all dirt (sandy, dusty SoCal fireroads and OHV trails)and just pulled airbox lid to have a look. Nothing got past filter, but a little bit of dust did get by the grease on lid seal. It was dealer installed, and it looks like they may have put the grease in the wrong side (around lower box perimeter instead of in recess of lid). It wasn't too bad, but it was more than nothing. Not sure if it will show up in pics. Will upload them a bit later. Nothing was in trumpets, and the dust that was inside was all attached to grease leakage residuals (from heat I guess).

I resealed with RTV so nothing will get past. Grease may work if it is applied correctly, but RTV gasket is a sure thing and is less messy IMO. And it will never run!

Filter had a lot of bugs and a bit of visible dust accumulation where snorkels dump in, but was totally fine to go many more miles. The DNA filter being a rubber perimeter and ribbed screen over cotton media is much more rigid than paper so no flexing under vacuum at the seal for sure. I have faith in this setup.
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Old 09-13-2014, 11:10 PM   #15
wilmar13
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OK, so this is what it looked like when I first opened it, you can kind of see a bit of dust on the side behind the filter, this obviously it had crept in the crack. There was also dust stuck to the grease on the filter brace which had come over the bridge. It looked like the grease was applied on the lower part, when it makes more sense to put it on the lid in the recess, but it could have just melted off. The lid did not have much grease at all, which makes me think it was applied to the lower. Not really being critical of the technician that did it, after all that I probably what I would have done too, had I not messed with this several times to figure out what works best.


Close up of filter before I took it out, you can see the dust that got past the grease on filter bracket (again none was in trumpets, I think the grease melted and then acted like a dusk magnet as it spread inside box):


I thought I took pictures of the filter, but for some reason they are not on memory card, doh! At any rate it was as you would expect to see after the use it had. Some visible dirt accumulation where snorkels exit and some bugs and sand came out when I beat it against the ground. I greased the face of it again (around the border of the rubber) and reinstalled.

I resealed lid with RTV form a gasket. Can get it at any autoparts store for $5. It is a sure way to seal and it may be reusable. I had done this previously and it was reusable but dealer installed and wanted to do KTM method (waxy grease that comes with DNA filter) so it was removed. It pulls off like rubber gasket once cured.


Apply thin bead around entire recess of lid (it is not necessary to do front section as that is incoming prefilter anyway):


Then install and tighten screws just until you see it start to squeeze out and stop.


Find something else to do for an hour to let it start to cure (I cleaned and lubed my chain and flushed my brake fluid front and rear). You don't HAVE to let it set, but it will provide a better gasket if you let it start to harden before you clamp down the lid. Then finish tightening the screws. It is still soft and will squeeze out, letting you know it is now air tight.


Then put your bike back together and know that no dust shall enter where it shouldn't. Let it sit overnight before riding to let it fully cure.
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