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08-11-2012, 09:33 AM
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#241 |
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moto-gurdyist
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Coastal Maine
Oddometer: 90
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Thanks, Lornce!
Is this strictly aesthetic? Should I be worried about polishing up the interior parts that interact with fuel and with each other? Any kind of oil or material I could use with the elbow grease to brighten them up a bit, and/or maybe protect them from further oxidation? mattsz screwed with this post 08-11-2012 at 01:04 PM |
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08-14-2012, 04:06 AM
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#242 |
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moto-gurdyist
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Coastal Maine
Oddometer: 90
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![]() Well, for better or worse, I proceeded on my own. I grabbed my fine steel wool and set to lightly scrubbing the exteriors and aluminum surfaces that slide against or contact other surfaces. Dry-wiped everything down and blew the heck out of everything with compressed air, hopefully to fully remove any stray steel wool fibers. Finally, to protect them from the elements, I rubbed them down with a thin coating of light machine oil and buffed them dry to the touch. Here's one - it only needs the float jet to be good to go (I hate waiting for parts!): It cleaned up pretty well - shiny, but not too shiny... don't want it to look brand new!!! Hoping that it'll work shiny... (shoulder-shrug smiley here) |
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08-14-2012, 06:46 PM
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#243 |
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Lost In Place
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Way Out There.
Oddometer: 15,990
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I've polished the slides and bores to good effect with a bit or Autosol metal polish. A smooth finish on those surfaces is reasonably critical.
That carb looks really nice. |
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08-15-2012, 01:47 PM
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#244 |
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Nerdly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: SE PA
Oddometer: 1,037
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Has anyone tried this on fuel injectors? I know you can use an ultrasonic cleaner for injectors, and a lot of on-line companies sell cleaning, but I was wondering if this would work just as good as it does on the carbs. I might have to give it a try.
__________________
Individuality is best expressed individually; you are conforming in your non-conformity. |
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08-15-2012, 03:24 PM
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#245 |
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Studly Adventurer
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Go to Harbor freight and buy an ultrasonic heated tank and use that for small carbs and I would try the injectors in it. I wouldn't try it on an injector that you can't replace.
__________________
MSF Military RiderCoach,'07 KTM 250 XCF-W w/ 320 HT-Racing kit, '02 Cannondale E440 (plated), '01 GasGas TXT321, '00 BMW GS1150,'95 XR100R,'84 RZ350 (in pieces )
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08-15-2012, 04:20 PM
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#246 | |
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Torque Stick
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Mid-Hudson Valley, NY/ Catskill Mtns, NY
Oddometer: 3,929
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Quote:
No, I have not tried it myself... Fuel injector cleaning video. |
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08-21-2012, 02:47 PM
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#247 | |
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Stuck @ Home! >=^(
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA to BRP and Dragon's Tail
Oddometer: 1,171
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Anyone use this on brake parts?Maily interested in cleaning the steel parts like caliper pistons and banjo bolts.
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Quote:
Manic Cycles=My Facebook Page |
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08-21-2012, 05:18 PM
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#248 |
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Support all riders
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Oddometer: 294
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Well,
I have an XL600R head that I wanted to gently clean the ports of alot of carbon deposits and liked the Pine Sol idea, so here we go Took about 6oz of straight Pine sol and mixed it slowly with half a packet of Ball Fruit Pectin for making jelly till it reached this consistency ![]() Then just smeared it where I wanted it and kept it from where I didn't want it. ![]() After a few hours it would dry so I added more, but later found that it really wasn't neccesary. I also soaked the valves in a 50/50 mix of Pine Sol and water ![]() Here are the before and after shots for a 24hr time period The head before ![]() After ![]() The Valves before ![]() And after ![]() Not convinced? Well here you go Left side coated with the jelly for 24hrs Right side is the control ![]() There you go Not bad for not really doing anything! Brush it on and wait, Hose it off and oil. Expeirences may very but I like it. Pete
__________________
"The reward is in the doing of it" "If you don't go when you to want to go, when you do go you'll find you've gone" BM 08 Wildfire 150 Scoot "The Virus" The Virus's RR http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=826703 87 XL600R "The Cracken" deceased till further notice |
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08-21-2012, 05:31 PM
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#249 | ||
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adventure commuter
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: dsm, ia
Oddometer: 3,192
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Quote:
I toss them in the carb dip to clean up the outside, but then use a rig made out of an old injector rail to clean the inside with pressurized solvent. It hooks up to my compressor for the pressure. Just use a small wall wart transformer and a momentary switch spliced into a injector electrical connector, to run the injector.
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1974 Suzuki TC-185 (The little 10 speed) 1986 BMW K75c Quote:
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09-01-2012, 09:31 AM
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#250 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Waay NW Washington
Oddometer: 1,237
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I've been running it in my parts washer and it works great. I don't have particularly sensitive hands, but after using for a while, it ate the skin off. Nothing bad mind you, but lost an outer layer. Looked like I dipped my hand in Elmer's and let it dry, then peeled it off. Shit works great when it's warm.
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'98 1100GS - Mine '02 F650 Dakar - Her's '01 XR50 - Spawn's |
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09-28-2012, 05:03 PM
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#251 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2008
Oddometer: 366
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Word of caution
Just did a set of Mikuni VM32s from my T500, they didn't look all too terrible to begin with, the jets weren't even clogged when I took them off. But I was curious to see how clean I could get them :)
Previously I had stuck one of them in an ultrasonic bath of isopropanol, this got some of the grime off on the outside but did nothing to remove the gummed up gasoline in the bottom of the floatbowl. I put the first carb into a small container of uncut Pinesol overnight, along with the jets, slide, etc. The Pinesol bubbled up, which I now realize was the byproduct of a chemical reaction. The PineSol worked TOO well, stripping off some of the metal, going as far as producing small pits in the bottom of the floatbowl and parts of the carb body Not bad enough to ruin the carbs but I'm glad I didn't let it sit for another day! Jets were pink colored, but cleaned up semi-okay, and look unharmed.The second carb I'm doing in a 50:50 dilution, with the floatbowl being filled up with a slightly higher concentration. Jets I put in 50:50 for about half and hour and took out, they look good, without the pink crap. Also, after rinsing all the Pinesol off in soapy water, I dried things off and blew out the jets (with human power lol) then liberally sprayed everything down with WD40, as to prevent a reaction with the air. No before pics but I'll get some 'afters' soon.
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1977 Yamaha XS500C cross country veteran 1975 Suzuki T500 under restoration 2001 Triumph Bonneville |
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09-29-2012, 01:12 PM
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#252 | |
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Old Enough To Know Better
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Oddometer: 5,527
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Quote:
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Mark J Merritt Island, FL When a person asks you for advice, they don't want advice. They want corroboration. |
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10-02-2012, 07:09 PM
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#253 |
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Gorilla Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: The Little Apple
Oddometer: 1,975
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Has anyone been super lazy and tried hooking pinesol up to the fuel tubing and filling the carb up with it? Just drain the bowl to fill the carb? Flush it through a few times. Rinse and repeat. Then flush gas thru a couple times and see if the old bike fires up?
Or is the key to submerge the carb so it soaks? Thanks
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bikes |
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10-04-2012, 02:41 PM
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#254 |
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Anatomically Correct
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Chicago-ish
Oddometer: 2,569
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there are many small passages in the carb (unless it is a Lectron, perhaps) . . . . I'm not confindent that all the passages would be well cleaned by simply allowing the fluid to flow through the carb -- I would think (uh oh) that the fluid would follow the path of least resistance, and not really clean everything that needed it . . . . . .
don't bet the ranch on it, though -- ;-}
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Searching for the immaculate contraption |
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10-07-2012, 04:53 PM
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#255 | |
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Torque Stick
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Mid-Hudson Valley, NY/ Catskill Mtns, NY
Oddometer: 3,929
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Quote:
I guess it depends how bad you think they are... |
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