ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-29-2010, 07:17 PM   #16
lpnb
n00b
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 5
Question Durafix

I just bought some durafix rods from the local distributor here in Aus, did some testing on the weekend.

Important point about this stuff was to follow the instructions carefully. few major points:
1. Al oxidises very quickly so it is important to clean well and
2. immediately thoughoughly brush with a stainless steel wire brush (supplied in the kit I bought.
3. need lots of heat, I used a cheap propane torch...it worked but only on smaller pieces.
4. you need to kinda rub the rod into the area to be joined.

test 1:

first I tried to butt weld two pieced of gen purpose 10mm angle Al. properly cleaned and brushed....failed cause I had it in the vice and there was enough heat sinkin in the vice for it not to get hot enough.

test 2:

a 70mmx70mmx3mm plate with a 30mm x 20mm offcut rod of 7075-t6 grade alloy: this i did with no real heat sinking and followed the instructions, I also beveled the rod offcut where I sat it end-on in the middle of the plate. proceded to heat and solder...

Viola! nicely joined and so I put it in the vice and proceeded to try to rip it apart. part of the weld broke away as I started (the 7075 was the bit in the vice) then the al plate basically got a hole torn in it and left about a half circle of the plate still attached to the 7075!!! I'd call that a success!!

now had I clamped the pieces I could have "rubbed" the rod properly as instucted without moving the rod offcut around. it was just sitting there on the bench.

test 3:

tried to do the same as above with some brass rod (this is supposed to be possible) It seemed to flow well onto the brass but the brass was very polished and although it appeared to bond very well leaving a deposit just like it had been "tinned" like when soldering, the bond was VERY poor and required very little effort to break away from the weld....it left all of the weld on the sheet....FAIL but I would like to test this a bit more.

Anyway, I am very excited about making some things with this stuff and am confident that effective repairs and fabrication can be done as long is proper testing is performed and you don't try to weld up a handlebar or anything super critical.

The other thought was that with a hot camping stove and one or two rods you'd be able to field weld cracked engine casings or maybe even a frame if your life depended on it. as longs as you could get the heat into it....some camping stoves have quite a bit of heat output.....maybe ad in a 40 degree day in the desert and you might just have a solution for a snapped suspension linkage (if you ride really slowly!)
lpnb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2010, 10:47 PM   #17
GreaseMonkey
Preshrunk & Cottony
 
GreaseMonkey's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: The only county in Illinois with no train tracks
Oddometer: 5,194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop
FWIW, I would avoid using Alumaweld (zinc) in an aluminum boat or an aluminum lower unit that spends any significant time in the water because you'll get a galvanic corrosion situation where the zinc will eventually disappear ... just like a zinc anode.
You may be correct in regards to salt water, but I live between 2 rivers and back in the 80's when I was doing it for a living I repaired a ton of broken props with this rod. And a propane torch most of the time.

As mentioned, clean the metal (I used a file mostly) and use a SS brush while you are heating it. I never used flux but I must have tried a few back then, and if it had made a difference I'd have kept using it.

One last thing- using a decent propane torch makes a HUGE difference! You owe it to yourself to buy one of these:



It pumps out heat, and is auto start and stop, just squeeze the button for fire, and let go when you want the fire to stop. Get the one like this one with a variable flame, it gives you a bit more flexibility than the fixed flame model does.
GreaseMonkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2013, 08:26 AM   #18
WhicheverAnyWayCan
Deaf Biker
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Seven Springs NC
Oddometer: 723
My dad with 40 years of mechanic and 10+ years of welding experience swear by MuddyWeld and he said he will teach me how to use it properly.

When he got a job (his last job before doctor declared him disabled) with County Public School Bus Garage (had to get job there due to no pre-existing health benefit), he said nobody there knew anything about MuggyWeld and their method were time consuming and costly. Say a 120psi brake copper pipe burst open and bus is sided with students waiting to get home/school, old method was to send back-up bus so it could be used for students to be taken home/school and they take the pipe to the garage and weld it together before returning to the bus. That was before my dad introduced MuggyWeld. With muggyweld, it took 20 mins or less to fix the pipe on hose then bus is on its way. No back-up bus delivered and few trips of getting the pipe fixed. Less labor time.

Now I am thinking of making aluminum fuel tank and he told me he will teach me how to put it together and he is most certain my fuel tank would hold together using MuggyWeld. I'll be back with my own review later..
WhicheverAnyWayCan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #19
Yamarocket630
Lurker
 
Yamarocket630's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: M-boro, TN
Oddometer: 421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippii View Post
They melt, ball up into spheres, and roll off whatever you were trying to repair.
Too much heat on the rod, not enough on the part you trying to stick it to. I've used them, and with some practice they work rather well.

The solder analogy is spot-on too.
Yamarocket630 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2013, 06:41 PM   #20
ericrat
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Oddometer: 1,103
I have used both the aluminum solder and the brazing products from https://www.tinmantech.com/. They both work. The solder is great for "utility" uses, fixing leaks, petcock fittings, etc. It is extra great for fixing pinhole leaks in a welding seam. I uses them with an acetelyne/air torch.
__________________
Have you visited ride reports lately ?. click HERE
ericrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2013, 06:53 PM   #21
Stan_R80/7
Beastly Gnarly
 
Stan_R80/7's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 1,075
The aluminum repair rod is a zinc/aluminum alloy. It is generally stronger than the base aluminum, but has little to low ductility compared to aluminum. So, the use depends on the application. I used some to repair a turn signal bracket which was part of a Krauser mount and it worked fine.

Having the aluminum really clean and using a stainless steel brush (used only on aluminum) to clean the hot aluminum surface and brush the surface when hot enough to melt the repair rod is needed. So much that brushing the aluminum while applying the rod to the hot aluminum is key. The technique is essentially soldering or brazing except no flux is used. The 'flux' comes from applying the stainless steel brush to remove the oxide layer when applying the rod.

The problems are the brittle repair and potential corrosion. For many applications, the lack of ductility is not an issue and paint will prevent corrosion. But, the aluminum for repair has to be hotter than the melting temperature of the rod.
Stan_R80/7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2013, 09:07 PM   #22
Beezer
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
Oddometer: 5,325
... and once you get that zinc crap all over everything it is harder to weld the real way
Beezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 02:29 PM   #23
bob393
Gnarly Adventurer
 
bob393's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Goshen, NY
Oddometer: 389
This is what I use, It works perfectly, and they say the weld is stronger than the base metal which I'm inclined to agree with. Just make sure to brush the hell out of the base metal with a stainless steal brush until it shines. Must be super clean!

http://www.alumiweld.com/
__________________
2007 R1200GS almost farkeled to perfection!
bob393 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2013, 02:49 PM   #24
showkey
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Wausau
Oddometer: 1,743
Truly gas weld aluminum was done prior to TIG.

http://www.cobratorches.com/accessor...welding-torch/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTD6bcFpRVs
__________________
1982 CX500 Turbo ,2006 ST1300, 2012 NC700X
1971 CT90,1981 C70, 1986 TRX 250,
1993 TRX300 4X4, 2001 TRX500 4x4, 1987 XR250L
showkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2013, 01:42 AM   #25
lpnb
n00b
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 5
found this old thread I posted to ages ago thought I'd give an update.

well, I build tool box, full rack and have welded up numerous other items, to date I have not had a single joint failure!!!

the rack had done about 10,000km on rough roads and few thousand on sealed roads, 7,000k round aus trip fully loaded.

the rack is 1" tube with a few mitred joints.

I still can't believe how well it has held up.

If anyone is interested i'll take some pics of the rack but I had to butcher it to fit the gsxr muffler.

Oh yeah and I have crashed in the sand fully loaded at about 70kmh and dropped it at least twice at other times with

happy days!
lpnb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014