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Old 05-13-2010, 08:05 PM   #46
Low594 OP
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When you open it up and remove the top circuit board, there are 2 black wires connecting the top and bottom circuit boards. One of those wires was broken at the lower circuit board. I just soldered it back together after cleaning the hole. I am hoping that fixes it!

Also, while I was there, I checked voltage of the memory battery. iread a few reports of it dying on some bikes. Mine was fine, its a 3 volt watch type battery and mine measured 2.85 volts. I picked up a silver epoxy from Fry's Electronics in order to secure the upper tab back to the battery.
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:21 PM   #47
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I am really interested in how that new ignition works when you get it going.
I have the two position ignition (high and low grade fuel) which was an extra for the '01 but standard on later ones I believe. But it would be good to have other maps available if possible.

Plus - I WANT/NEED/JUSTHAVETOHAVE that low pipe on your mate Scarjaw's bike

Cheers
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:32 PM   #48
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Derek (MotoLab) has put a number of them on a wide range of bikes, so they have his backing. My brother also bought one and had Derek put it on ('93 XR650L supermoto, fully built 675cc!) and do a dyno tune, he's loving it!

It doesn't have the ability to store maps internally , but my brother and I are going to talk to a couple of friends (computer engineers) about building a handheld device that can store 2-5 maps uploaded via a laptop at home, but be able to carry it in a saddle or tank bag.
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:59 PM   #49
The Mass
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In that case, I'm in
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:21 PM   #50
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Well, the motor should be coming in soon! Really looking forward to getting this thing up!

I got the radiators back from the shop on Friday, they had a few clogged tubes, bent fins, and a pin hole leak when pressure tested. My list of things to do and get for start up is the following:
-silicone radiator hoses
-new thermostat and fan switch
-rebuild new carb
-new fuel, oil and filters
-new battery


I finally got to the wiring in the dash. I added a fuse block and going to add this

for power to my accessories on the dash, GPSr, phone or whatever. As most handheld items these days charge on 5v and .5(500mA)Amps of power and most also have USB charging available this is an ideal way to go via the old method of having individual cig power adapters for each device.

While I was in there I finally put my repaired IMO back in and now I cant find my notes on what hooks to what. I am left with a 3pin(blue-violet-grey) and a 2pin(red-black). If my memory serves me the 3pin is unused and is for tachometer. And the 2pin connects to one of the roadbook connectors(blue/yellow-brown). I can't find the IMO in the wiring diagram, why is that?!
Can anyone confirm this?

'99 640A USmodel
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:51 PM   #51
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Well, the motor should be on its way any day, just in time to go away for the weekend! Thanks again to fellow inmate Sanjoh, for coming to my rescue and getting this sweetheart back on the road and dirt where she belongs!

Yesterday, I got the fuse block in under the dash and wired up the grip heaters and added relays for proper front lighting. It desperately needed the relays for the headlights (so I've read on here and seen in almost every bike I've touched). It didn't really need the gripheaters rewired, but I wanted to get rid of the excess wires and fuses under the seat around the battery.
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:49 PM   #52
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Well, last night the work ran late into the evening, so I didn't get the gripheaters checked out. So after work today I turned them on and metered my way through the install. Seems its not working right. I used the roadbook connector to supply power to the coil, thus making the gripheaters only work while the bike is running. The grip heaters use power directly from the battery, via the aux fuseblock I added. The problem seems that i am only getting 3.5 volts at the roadbook blue/yellow conductor, the relay needs at least 9 volts to switch the contacts. This doesn't seem right! I do have 13.5 volts at the battery. Should it be 12-13.5 volts as I had expected to find??
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:17 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low594
I finally got to the wiring in the dash. I added a fuse block and going to add this

for power to my accessories on the dash, GPSr, phone or whatever. As most handheld items these days charge on 5v and .5(500mA)Amps of power and most also have USB charging available this is an ideal way to go via the old method of having individual cig power adapters for each device.
Details or links if possible...tried google but most finds were for cig type...
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:44 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tileman
Details or links if possible...tried google but most finds were for cig type...
Yes, right! I thought I had done that! Here's the link!
http://www.daqstuff.com/automotive.htm Its at the bottom of the page, they also have an ebay store http://myworld.ebay.com/daqstuff/ and it looks like its $5 cheaper.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:07 PM   #55
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low594
Well, last night the work ran late into the evening, so I didn't get the gripheaters checked out. So after work today I turned them on and metered my way through the install. Seems its not working right. I used the roadbook connector to supply power to the coil, thus making the gripheaters only work while the bike is running. The grip heaters use power directly from the battery, via the aux fuseblock I added. The problem seems that i am only getting 3.5 volts at the roadbook blue/yellow conductor, the relay needs at least 9 volts to switch the contacts. This doesn't seem right! I do have 13.5 volts at the battery. Should it be 12-13.5 volts as I had expected to find??
If you don't get your answer, an inmate by the name of Luke could give you some pointers on this stuff.

I'll have more for you, next time I'm about.
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:10 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
If you don't get your answer, an inmate by the name of Luke could give you some pointers on this stuff.

I'll have more for you, next time I'm about.
I'm wondering if the missing motor has anything to do with it, well hoping is more like it! I started doing some volt tracing with a multimeter and found some really weird stuff going on, so I am hoping that the motor missing is causing voltage to flow down alternate routes causing weird things. The other option is that I have a bad wire harness and I don't like that option and havent physically seen any reason to believe that.


Any idea on the IMO connections?
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:10 PM   #57
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low594
I'm wondering if the missing motor has anything to do with it, well hoping is more like it! I started doing some volt tracing with a multimeter and found some really weird stuff going on, so I am hoping that the motor missing is causing voltage to flow down alternate routes causing weird things. The other option is that I have a bad wire harness and I don't like that option and havent physically seen any reason to believe that.


Any idea on the IMO connections?

While I was in there I finally put my repaired IMO back in and now I cant find my notes on what hooks to what. I am left with a 3pin(blue-violet-grey) and a 2pin(red-black). If my memory serves me the 3pin is unused and is for tachometer. And the 2pin connects to one of the roadbook connectors(blue/yellow-brown). I can't find the IMO in the wiring diagram, why is that?!
Can anyone confirm this?
'99 640A USmodel
I thought the frame was used as the ground circuit, but perhaps the engine plays some significant role too? Luke will probably know that bit as well.

IMO connections on a 1999 LC4a... did you see any of the threads on the under dashboard connections? My 2003 IMO has one big connector that is unmistakable...
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:31 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
I thought the frame was used as the ground circuit, but perhaps the engine plays some significant role too? Luke will probably know that bit as well.

IMO connections on a 1999 LC4a... did you see any of the threads on the under dashboard connections? My 2003 IMO has one big connector that is unmistakable...
The frame is definitely used as ground balancing. I'm hoping the motor being out and the new one showing up soon will fix the issue, not likely, but I can dream and it hurts less than pulling my hair out. At least for now!

I didn't find anything relevent, but only found a few threads tho.

I am getting some help from Luke, thank you!
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:33 PM   #59
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I have gotten the '05 BST 40 carb rebuilt, thanks to Derek at Moto Lab for the parts! New seals, Titanium needle, new jets, SS bolts, etc! And thanks to my Dad for being bored enough while I was at work to rebuild the carb itself!
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Old 06-11-2010, 05:32 PM   #60
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Electrical Issue Progress!

Luke helped get the deductive processes going and figured out the Touratech IMO 100R in the early 640A.
Specifically, there are the following connectors on the Touratech Tripmaster/IMO100R:
#1 -3pin (green-white-brown) ---> 3pin (green-white-brown) speedo pickup
#2 -3pin (blue-violet-grey) ---> (unused) response from Touratech Germany says this is for their remote control module
#3 -2pin (red-black) ---> this was connected to KTMs "roadbook power", a 2pin(blue/yellow-brown); Touratechs modern any-bike IMO100R calls for 9-17vdc, I would think it to be near the same requirements
#4 -1pin (pink) ---> 1pin (pink) Tripmaster dimmer
#5 -1pin (yellow) ---> 1pin (yellow) Tripmaster dimmer

After that I went thru more ordeal finding the cause of my low (3.7vdc) issue on the blue/yellow&brown connections.
Long story short, it was the headlight disable connector! I had it unplugged to save the battery from the headlights, it does a whole lot more than just shut off power to the headlight, all non-essential power is shunted down to mid 3 volts! The only thing I found not effected was the ignition circuit! Hopefully my pain and suffering saves others! Please pass this info around!
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