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Old 03-15-2015, 02:39 PM   #1
BigBikeMike OP
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Location: Danville, CA
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Persnickety at 3000-4000 rpm

Hey folks!

I've been working to sort out my 2010 990. When I'm between 3000 and 4000 rpm at a cruise throttle opening, it's jerky as hell. On the sidestand, I noticed a little bit of popping in the airbox at 3k rpm and a ~2% throttle opening. I can't speak to the popping, but the jerkiness has been there for a while (along with high vibrations, running hot, and being down on power), which is what started this investigation.

I just did a valve adjustment (exhaust sides were tight), TB sync (they were pretty far out), and a TPS adjustment (at 3.70v full open, and 0.52v closed, with the stepper motor backed out). It runs better than it ever has, at all other RPMs. In fact, the front wheel feels like it's full of helium now.

It's still quite persnickety at that 3k rpm range though, and I'm running out of ideas. I'll try the 15 minute idle trick tomorrow after the bike has a chance to cool off all the way, then see where I'm at. I've tried it a few times previously and it didn't make much of a difference.

Some other info: I'm running the Arka R map from 2011, I have a k&n air filter, KTM branded FMF pipes with spark arrestor screens present, and the secondary butterflies removed. Bike has ~8500 miles on it.

Any ideas?

Quick update: Just did the 15 minute idle trick after using TuneECU to "Reset Adaptation." It's a little bit better, but when rolling the throttle on slowly, it still goes smoothly to ~3k, then jumps up to 3500-3750. It's smooth outside of that particular range. Maybe my TPS is bad?

UPDATE -- FIXED IT!!!

Here's the summary of what I did, based on the advice in this thread and others:
  1. Valve adjustment
  2. Throttle body sync (at idle)
  3. TPS Adjustment (0.60v)
  4. Fuel pump rebuild
  5. 2011-2012 Akro R map
  6. Loosened and re-tightened the engine mounting bolts (for vibrations)
  7. 15 minute idle (with TuneECU "Reset Adaptation")
  8. Adjusted throttle cable (new 3/31)
  9. Adjusted chain slack (new 3/31)

Each thing I dd made a noticeable improvement, some more than others, and each in different ways. I'm going to add most of these things to my maintenance schedule and do them proactively at valve check intervals.

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Old 03-16-2015, 06:50 AM   #2
Supahflid
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My throttle is stumbly from mid-ish 3000 to low 4000 rpm's. I'm not sure it's as bad as yours, but I've just grown accustomed to it and have given up worrying about it. I have Akro cans and I think the 2011 Akro map. I have a Rottweiler air filter, but I have not removed the secondaries.

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Old 03-16-2015, 08:02 AM   #3
Bullskin
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My 2010 was the same way. The problem went away when I removed the oxygen sensors. Runs great at any rpm now.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:09 AM   #4
BigBikeMike OP
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Interesting. Did you remove them and put the "cancelers" on the plugs, or just disable them with TuneECU?

Also, did it have much of an affect on MPG?

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Old 03-16-2015, 03:26 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BigBikeMike View Post
Interesting. Did you remove them and put the "cancelers" on the plugs, or just disable them with TuneECU?

Also, did it have much of an affect on MPG?
I left them in place and put the cancelers on. Mileage is still great and unchanged. I get around 42, which seems to be better than most.
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:39 PM   #6
BigBikeMike OP
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I left them in place and put the cancelers on. Mileage is still great and unchanged. I get around 42, which seems to be better than most.
Stock map?
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:24 PM   #7
Bullskin
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Stock map?
Yes, stock map, FMF pipes, Uni pre filter. Had this setup for over 40,000 miles now. Runs great through the whole rpm range and gets good mileage.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:03 PM   #8
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Yes, stock map, FMF pipes, Uni pre filter. Had this setup for over 40,000 miles now. Runs great through the whole rpm range and gets good mileage.
Hrm. I'll try going back to the stock map, then disabling O2 sensors. I'm also going to replace my fuel screens once they show up, just in case that's an issue.

Did you use the Dynojet sensor eliminators?
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Old 03-17-2015, 07:41 AM   #9
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Hrm. I'll try going back to the stock map, then disabling O2 sensors. I'm also going to replace my fuel screens once they show up, just in case that's an issue.

Did you use the Dynojet sensor eliminators?
Hmmm. I think so. I know I got them from KTM Twins.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:03 PM   #10
Zuber
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Stop.

The Akro map already has the O2 sensors turned off.

You need to set the TPS to 0.600 v, when the bike is hot and idling. Don't set it when the idle compensator is retracted. Yours is too low.

If you have TuneECU, you don't need to buy sensor eliminators. Just turn them off in software, push the map, then pull off the sensors and plug the holes. Keep them hooked up until you have it re-mapped, or get an FI error.

The stock map is not a bad one. Smooth the ignition maps by retarding them around 3500 rpm. Compare the stock ign map to the Power-Tripp ign map for 2-1 exhaust and copy it. Turn off O2, SAS, and you'll like it.
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:42 AM   #11
Dusty
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Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
Stop.

The Akro map already has the O2 sensors turned off.

You need to set the TPS to 0.600 v, when the bike is hot and idling. Don't set it when the idle compensator is retracted. Yours is too low.

If you have TuneECU, you don't need to buy sensor eliminators. Just turn them off in software, push the map, then pull off the sensors and plug the holes. Keep them hooked up until you have it re-mapped, or get an FI error.

The stock map is not a bad one. Smooth the ignition maps by retarding them around 3500 rpm. Compare the stock ign map to the Power-Tripp ign map for 2-1 exhaust and copy it. Turn off O2, SAS, and you'll like it.
Whats so wrong with the ignition on the 11 Arka map, what would you change? I didn't have a 10 akra map handy but they are very similar if i memory servers me right. The power -tripp map is identical to the 11 arka accept from 70 thru 100% throttle position.
The wacky ignition curves were 07-08 maps.


If you turn the 02s off with TuneECU the heater still run so i don't think there is any reason to remove them. It will just run open loop and disregards the data from the 02s.

And those thinking of removing the secondaries, its free and takes 10 minuets to do, try it judge for yourself.
My runs great with out the 02s and NO second flies and tps set to .6 hot, There is no hunting when holding the throttle steady with or with out a load,..... and it just pulled 45 mpg's on my last ride.
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Old 03-19-2015, 04:48 PM   #12
Maoule
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If you turn off the O2 with tuneecu, must the plug be disconnected from the sensor? And I gather there is no harm leaving the sensor in the pipe? Is there anything to turn off after removing the butterflies?
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Old 03-19-2015, 05:14 PM   #13
BigBikeMike OP
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You need to set the TPS to 0.600 v, when the bike is hot and idling. Don't set it when the idle compensator is retracted. Yours is too low.
I'm confused.

Everything I've read so far says to retract the compensator/stepper before adjusting the TPS value since it will cause the number to change and, from what I've seen, push it higher. Wouldn't that mean that if it's set with the stepper extended, you'd effectively have a lower reading (more like 0.500v or lower)?

I've also seen several "correct" ranges. One is from 0.5v-0.6v (Hall of Wisdom), another from a KTM tech article says 0.56v - 0.64v. This is probably why there's so much debate on this very subject.
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:41 PM   #14
Dusty
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Originally Posted by Maoule View Post
If you turn off the O2 with tuneecu, must the plug be disconnected from the sensor? And I gather there is no harm leaving the sensor in the pipe? Is there anything to turn off after removing the butterflies?
No then the heaters wont run and you will fuk them up... read my post above.

If you use the dongle thing or what ever its called to eliminate the 02s there is no power to the heaters.
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Old 03-19-2015, 07:13 PM   #15
Dusty
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Originally Posted by BigBikeMike View Post
I'm confused.

Everything I've read so far says to retract the compensator/stepper before adjusting the TPS value since it will cause the number to change and, from what I've seen, push it higher. Wouldn't that mean that if it's set with the stepper extended, you'd effectively have a lower reading (more like 0.500v or lower)?

I've also seen several "correct" ranges. One is from 0.5v-0.6v (Hall of Wisdom), another from a KTM tech article says 0.56v - 0.64v. This is probably why there's so much debate on this very subject.
No idea on what he was saying about(idle compensator is retracted)
My findings have been on my 07 that any lower than .6 like in the 5.4 area on restart i had a very high idle, i did the 15 min and it gradually ramped up to around 2500rpm.
From following threads when new 990 are 1st hooked up to TE the TPS values have been close or at .7 as was mine.
TPS has effects on timing also.
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