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Old 07-23-2014, 06:09 PM   #1
atk_nut OP
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Duncan, BC
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2010 990 ADV TB Sync

Anybody do it? I've found a procedure for a super-duke after some browsing.

Can anybody point me in the right direction?

Is it really required?

Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:34 PM   #2
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If the TB's are not balanced, the engine is pulling harder on one cylinder, idling on the other, more vibes, less power.

You need vacuum lines extended from the engine intake ports back to under the seat where you can reach them with the tanks on.

Then you need an electronic balancer, like the TwinMax.

Hook it up, warm it up, if one pulls more vacuum, then pull the air filter, turn the balance screw on the throttle bar connecting both throttles. It's near the rear throttle body. When they have equal vacuum, yer done.
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Old Yesterday, 05:07 AM   #3
DirtyADV
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Is it not the same way as the 950??

Just a piece of clear tubing and hook up to intakes (not sure if the 990 has the hoses in place like the 950 to work the SAS, below TB, have removed the SAS stuff from the 990 but cant remember).

If one side rises adjust, be ready to kill enging if way of like on the bike my dad bought it was close it sucked oil directly into the intake, some more colorful oil might be used but just had engine oil and has worked great:



/Johan
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Old Yesterday, 05:14 AM   #4
DirtyADV
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/dirtya...7635255425854/

Yes there seems to be a brass fitting suitable on the 990 also.

/Johan
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Old Yesterday, 06:18 AM   #5
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Thank Fellas...

I still find it strange that the KTM service manual doesn't have a procedure for this.

I ended up using this procedure:

http://www.superduke.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5347

from the superduke forum (using a twinmax).
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Old Yesterday, 02:07 PM   #6
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Well, it's a lot smoother, both at idle and high up.

BUT

It's doing this "chuff" thing (slight backfire through the intake) at idle. It actually stalled 3-4 times this morning when cold, when it "chuffed".

Any ideas? TPS maybe?

I'm still trying to source a cable for tuneecu, so that's out, for now.
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Old Yesterday, 05:52 PM   #7
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OK, I tried the 15min idle thing, didn't seem to help.

It stalled 5 times in the first minute, so does that mean I need to go 15min after the last stall?

I've checked all the vacuum lines etc, but still can't find anything wrong. The only change is the TB sync....

Anyone? Anyone?
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Old Yesterday, 06:17 PM   #8
dgjackson40
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Before Sync

How was bike running before the sync? Were you having stalling issues? Make sure your throttle cable is adjusted correctly.
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Old Yesterday, 07:24 PM   #9
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Yup, it was running fine, just a little rough (hence the want for a TB sync).
It was stalling the odd time when it was cold, but only once, not 4 in a row. It never would "chuff" when warm.

I need the tuneEcu for adjusting the throttle, correct? to back off the idle servo?
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Old Yesterday, 08:55 PM   #10
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Ok, doing a bit more digging, it seems you need to reset the ecu for the 15min idle thing to work. Looking at how everything is set up here's what I see:

- The TPS is on the front cylinder
- There looks like a tps on the rear, but it's not, it's a position sensor for the butterfly.
- Adjusting the sync screw changes the rear cylinder compared to the front. (It's the rear that's "chuffing" by the way)

So here's my theory, since there is only one tps, and the rear has been "tweeked" I think the mapping is slightly off on the rear (The bike was dyno tuned before I got it, so maybe it was tuned out of balance?) I'm not sure what the 15min idle changes.....any experts?

I really need to get my tuneEcu going.....

Maybe I'll just put it back where it was for now....
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Old Yesterday, 09:40 PM   #11
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Spot on. And also why ktm say not to do it. Maps front and rear are different with a slight off balance from New for whatever reason.
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Old Yesterday, 10:48 PM   #12
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'Generally' you don't need to adjust the sync unless you make drastic changes, removed the airbox, new 2-1 exhaust, etc.

I've seen the sync way off on stock bikes. Went through the valves, airfilter, TPS, plugs, new oil and bingo! Sync was back to perfect.
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Old Today, 06:40 AM   #13
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Yes to all the above, the bike recently had exhaust, rotweiller intake etc.

That's kind of why I went there.....

Maybe I'll put it back until I get tuneEcu running....

I'm hoping there's a way in there to adjust the rear?

Edit: I should clarify that....just at idle i mean, it seems to run way nicer balanced at speed....

So front/rear maps are different?
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Old Today, 11:52 AM   #14
Dusty
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Yes the rear cylinder has more fuel to it.
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Old Today, 06:53 PM   #15
JoeMongo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atk_nut View Post
Yes to all the above, the bike recently had exhaust, rotweiller intake etc.

That's kind of why I went there.....

Maybe I'll put it back until I get tuneEcu running....

I'm hoping there's a way in there to adjust the rear?

Edit: I should clarify that....just at idle i mean, it seems to run way nicer balanced at speed....

So front/rear maps are different?
So, I don't know what has been done so far, with respect to balancing the throttle bodies, but if you have a Rottweiler installed, balancing is easy even with both tanks installed. Just remove the seat, install your differential pressure instrument of choice, zero it out, start the motor and observe. Then reach down in there to the throttle balance adjustment screw with a long Phillips screwdriver in your left hand, reach your right hand underneath the adjustment screw to keep the screwdriver from opening the throttles when turning the screw, and voila! Adjustment complete. Should take less than 60 seconds, once you have warmed up the motor. Do not do this on a cold motor or one with valves out of spec.

There really isn't anything else to touch/do/disassemble, assuming that you have previously run lines from the spare TB vacuum ports back to a convenient point under the seat.

IMHO, The best place to adjust is at/near idle, but make sure that the balance holds just off idle and above. If it doesn't that could mean a mechanical issue with the TB butterflies, or something else.
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