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Old 11-04-2009, 04:20 PM   #226
KTMSprocket
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Great guide...thank you. With an 07 ADV in need of an oil change...why wouldnt i do this...


Additional information as of 05-07-06
After discussing the options, it's possible that the best way to burp the frame on an '02 and earlier 640 would be to install the filler bolt loosely in the frame, in other words, threaded in, but not quite all the way, then start the bike and wait for the oil to flow out past the threads. As soon as you see the oil, tighten the bolt... then shut off the engine.
Have a rag or two handy to soak up the oil that slides past... but if your quick about it, there should be a minimum of mess.
Truth be told, it may actually be the best way to do it on any year, as the hose trick is a little on the fiddly side of life


Rather than use the tube and rubber stopper..???

Yes, I would get a bit of oil spray and from the leakage through the heads but nothing that can't be cleaned with some degreaser and pressure hose...

(BTW...if you need to change the oil in the field, its what I'd do anyway)

Any comments guys???
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:09 PM   #227
Luke
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That's the only way I've ever done it. Screw the bolt in a turn or two short of seated, then run the motor 'till you see oil. Screw in the bolt with your fingers, shut off the motor and wipe off the oil. Then, don't forget to tighten the bolt with a wrench. There's no spray at all, just a little dribble. A 1" square of rag is all you need to clean it up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMSprocket
Great guide...thank you. With an 07 ADV in need of an oil change...why wouldnt i do this...


Additional information as of 05-07-06
After discussing the options, it's possible that the best way to burp the frame on an '02 and earlier 640 would be to install the filler bolt loosely in the frame, in other words, threaded in, but not quite all the way, then start the bike and wait for the oil to flow out past the threads. As soon as you see the oil, tighten the bolt... then shut off the engine.
Have a rag or two handy to soak up the oil that slides past... but if your quick about it, there should be a minimum of mess.
Truth be told, it may actually be the best way to do it on any year, as the hose trick is a little on the fiddly side of life


Rather than use the tube and rubber stopper..???

Yes, I would get a bit of oil spray and from the leakage through the heads but nothing that can't be cleaned with some degreaser and pressure hose...

(BTW...if you need to change the oil in the field, its what I'd do anyway)

Any comments guys???
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:50 PM   #228
KTMSprocket
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Just did this. (07 ADV)

Feedback is...

Its a little easier than the first post leads you to believe.
  • Dropping oil is easy from two sump plugs
  • Removing the spin off filter is tricky if oily and so on. I used my most simple filter removing tool (has three legs on it that tighten when you undo - I added some one inch lengths of heater hose to the feet to make it grip better (as its really designed for car/truck size filters). Worked a treat. I did up the new one wearing surgical gloves for better grip.
  • To remove the paper filter, unscrew the footbrake retaining bolt and move the lever toward back of bike. No need to undo the wires. Unscrew the three cover bolts with a long T handle if you have one (less fiddly). A VERY gentle tap and easing of the cover gets it off. Rip off old gasket. Place new gasket on cover (not engine) and lightly screw all three bolts into cover (this holds gasket (mostly)). Very gently move back into place and line up screws and make sure gasket is straight. Tighten. NO NEED to undo Banjo fittings.
  • To burp the frame. Undo the frame bolt, put new oil in via hose and funnel. Replace plug but do not tighten down - say screw half in. When new oils are in and everything ready, turn over engine with magic button but dont let it fire - do this a few times. Then let it fire and turn off. Do this a few times. Then let it fire and run on idle....oil starts to ease past the frame plug. Kill motor and tighten. No need to remove fairing. Its easy to get a socket wrench in there and access the plug/hole.
Hope this adds to the thread - well done creeper!

Ezy Pzy!!!
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:09 AM   #229
Riversage
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frame oil filler for older 640s

As you owners of older 640s (99-02 I think) know, the frame oil filler hole is smaller. If you are looking for an easy way to fill it on the cheap, just get one of the small and longish funnels from pep boys for 1.99, and about 18" of 3/8" clear plastic tubing. The tubing fits perfectly on the funnel side, but is to big to fit on the bike side. That is until use a file or a grinding wheel to taper the end of the tube. After doing this it fit my 99 adventure perfectly! Good luck.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:33 PM   #230
meat popsicle
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A curious oil change

I am somewhere in the neighborhood of 16000 miles, and found this in my oil change:

Small Plug:

there was quite a bit of... metallic sludge on the magnet. I good sized glob. I smeared it on my finger for the picture after I had washed up so I could handle my camera, but there is still a bit left on the magnet. Ultra-fine - no grit to it. Strange...

Large Plug:

there were flakes of shiny metal collected at the base of the screen. You can see them on the rag in front of the plug. I recall some talk of such findings...

Drain Pan

you can also see the shiny metal flakes in the oil drain pan residue. I'll be looking around the threads for discussions of these things, but I am concerned.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:05 PM   #231
Sparrowhawk
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I'm no expert on the LC4, I've only had mine a few years and about 10,000 miles. I have not had the pleasure of any kind of failure yet. My oil has always come out clear and the color of a nice amber or nut brown ale. I've not had any metal bits of the magnets or screen. If this has been your experience until this change I'd say you have reason for concern. Something has gone south on you.

I can't tell from the pictures if all the metal in your oil are magnetic or not. From the color I'd say iron (cam, followers, rings, cylinder, crankshaft) if magnetic, aluminum (piston skirt) if not magnetic. Other posts lead to the cam and followers as the first trouble area as these engines age.

Sorry, that's all I can offer, except Creeper has been fishing for PMs on the LC4 recently. I think he has gotten lonely.
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:11 AM   #232
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparrowhawk
I'm no expert on the LC4, I've only had mine a few years and about 10,000 miles. I have not had the pleasure of any kind of failure yet. My oil has always come out clear and the color of a nice amber or nut brown ale. I've not had any metal bits of the magnets or screen. If this has been your experience until this change I'd say you have reason for concern. Something has gone south on you.
Mine has always just been a collection of minute spikes, like Creeper pictured in his Post 1 and others have said is normal. This is a change from my first 3 (4?) oil changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparrowhawk
I can't tell from the pictures if all the metal in your oil are magnetic or not. From the color I'd say iron (cam, followers, rings, cylinder, crankshaft) if magnetic, aluminum (piston skirt) if not magnetic. Other posts lead to the cam and followers as the first trouble area as these engines age.
There are two distinct things in the pictures, or at least I think they are... the dark grey ultra-fine sludge that was adhered in a glob to the small plug's magnet. I say glob because when I wiped it off it wanted to stay in a glob, as opposed to separating into a multitude of minute particles. Comprende?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparrowhawk
Sorry, that's all I can offer, except Creeper has been fishing for PMs on the LC4 recently. I think he has gotten lonely.
Thanks for the thoughts; its a good start, and you made me add in some details. Creeper lonely? How can that be, he's got a six-month waiting list for seats! I'll give him a call if I don't get anywhere. I'd like to know since my plans are to ride ~5hrs to the Mojave Desert, then explore some of the lonelier places in it this weekend
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:33 AM   #233
NICO
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Meat, if it helps you feel any better, my magnet always has a light sludge on it like that. I always assumed it was very fine metallic shavings, possibly fromt he clutch.

I would wonder about the glitter as it is prolly aluminum. If ferrous, it should have been on your magnet in the typical LC4 mohawk.

Any changes in clutch performance? I wonder if you may be experiencing some notching of the basket fingers, given the mileage on your bike.

If you really want to freak right the hell out, put a stethoscope on the left side cover, directly over the crank end. You'll be amazed at the sounds you hear.

I was convinced I was due for an overhaul this past weekend after listening to mine, then I listened to 2 other LC4's and heard the same sounds. Either it is normal or there are 3 LC4's in Michigan with bad crank bearings.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:09 PM   #234
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NICO
Meat, if it helps you feel any better, my magnet always has a light sludge on it like that. I always assumed it was very fine metallic shavings, possibly fromt he clutch.
It's nice to not be alone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NICO
I would wonder about the glitter as it is prolly aluminum. If ferrous, it should have been on your magnet in the typical LC4 mohawk.
It was hard to tell with the glob; it was noticeable on the large plug's screen and the oil pan residue. Maybe there was no room left for attachment on the magnet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NICO
Any changes in clutch performance? I wonder if you may be experiencing some notching of the basket fingers, given the mileage on your bike.
I have not noticed any; I'll be riding somewhere north of 1000 miles this weekend so I'll let you know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NICO
If you really want to freak right the hell out, put a stethoscope on the left side cover, directly over the crank end. You'll be amazed at the sounds you hear.

I was convinced I was due for an overhaul this past weekend after listening to mine, then I listened to 2 other LC4's and heard the same sounds. Either it is normal or there are 3 LC4's in Michigan with bad crank bearings.
I was thinking the glitter, which are more like "flakes" than the usual "spikey" bits forming the LC4 magnet "mohawk", might be bearing related (motochondritis actin' up) but I did not find any such talk/threads in a quick search last night.
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:51 PM   #235
lvdukerider
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FWIW, my 2000 Duke II drain plugs,screens, and filter have always looked like that at every oil change since new and to this day and ive never had any problems yet. I think its just normal wear and tear debries from the clutch.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:46 PM   #236
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvdukerider
FWIW, my 2000 Duke II drain plugs,screens, and filter have always looked like that at every oil change since new and to this day and ive never had any problems yet. I think its just normal wear and tear debries from the clutch.
Thanks for the feedback. Its nice to get more comments but since I leave soon I will have to trust in The Great Pumpkin just like Linus always told us to...
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:51 PM   #237
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Question

Of course, a big thanks to Creeper for this guide. just completed my first change, i hope. now my 640a noob question.

is there a check or some sign that i've successfully burped the frame? I did the "frame plug partially out til oil comes out while motor running while on the centerstand" method. however, oil wasn't coming out after a bit, so i started backing out the frame plug while the bike was running until oil started oozing out. I'm worried that i had the plug in too far (maybe three turns out from seated via fingertips) when i started the burp process. it didn't spooge oil until i had it almost completely backed out of the frame. am I good? is there a way i can check?

i've searched around a little and don't see the answer, however, if it has been answered, I'd welcome a link.

slow, messy pain in the ass to fill the frame. looks like i need to find a fluid pump or giant syringe somewhere. my "surgical tube into rubber stopper in the top of a liter oil bottle w/ breather hold" method took at least an hour if not two, then i still needed to squeeze and prod to get the last bit in there. say one was in BFE in the sticks and had to do an oil change, i guess i'd just lay the bike nearly on its side to fill it? come to think of it, maybe that's what i should have done!

huge thanks for all the amazing 640a info on advrider. fantastic resource for a new owner.
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:56 PM   #238
gunnerbuck
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I found this setup works pretty good for filling both the engine and down tube... A chunk of clear hose is best to attach to the funnel as it makes it easy to monitor when the fluid has all passed...

gunnerbuck screwed with this post 01-22-2011 at 08:04 PM
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:45 PM   #239
wrk2surf
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on my last change I used an outboard motor lower end quart oil pump ... need to rethread the adapter or machine an extra as it isnt the exact pitch but worked perfect ... or get the right one http://www.westmarine.com/1/3/marine-oil-change-pump
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Old 01-23-2011, 01:30 AM   #240
makazica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaxMan View Post
Of course, a big thanks to Creeper for this guide. just completed my first change, i hope. now my 640a noob question.

is there a check or some sign that i've successfully burped the frame? I did the "frame plug partially out til oil comes out while motor running while on the centerstand" method. however, oil wasn't coming out after a bit, so i started backing out the frame plug while the bike was running until oil started oozing out. I'm worried that i had the plug in too far (maybe three turns out from seated via fingertips) when i started the burp process. it didn't spooge oil until i had it almost completely backed out of the frame. am I good? is there a way i can check?

i've searched around a little and don't see the answer, however, if it has been answered, I'd welcome a link.

slow, messy pain in the ass to fill the frame. looks like i need to find a fluid pump or giant syringe somewhere. my "surgical tube into rubber stopper in the top of a liter oil bottle w/ breather hold" method took at least an hour if not two, then i still needed to squeeze and prod to get the last bit in there. say one was in BFE in the sticks and had to do an oil change, i guess i'd just lay the bike nearly on its side to fill it? come to think of it, maybe that's what i should have done!

huge thanks for all the amazing 640a info on advrider. fantastic resource for a new owner.
I believe the thread says to thread the bolt in only for half a turn.
Anyway....do it again if you're not sure....
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