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Old 05-22-2007, 02:45 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffyscouser
The Emerald isle awaits and some of the best Old Roads in the world. It will rain however.
Good... I wouldn't want it to be perfect.
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Old 06-05-2007, 07:19 AM   #107
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thanks Creeper... I used a turkey baster to put the 600ml of oil into the frame.. not the fastest process, but clean and easy !!!

greg
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Old 06-05-2007, 08:56 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by disconnected
thanks Creeper... I used a turkey baster to put the 600ml of oil into the frame.. not the fastest process, but clean and easy !!!

greg
Sounds like a good way to do it to me. Lately, I've been using a cheapy fluid pump I got at the auto parts store.

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Old 06-24-2007, 04:08 AM   #109
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Oil Change

Thanks for the oil change thread Creeper.
I'm a oil change 1st timer on the KTM. Without a manual, stuff like this is invalauble.
Mine's a 94 620 SC and I will have to remove the banjo bolts to remove the lower cover.
I am assuming I have the o ring type of seal.
I will use the loose bolt method for the burping as this is probably the only way of doing this on a "kick starter only" model.
As for filling the frame, I guess I can use one of those oil bottles you can buy with a screw on tube (for Auto Trans filling thru dipstick tube on cars)
I will be using Motul 3100 Gold SAE 15W50 Technosynthese.
Has anyone out there used this oil? Comments?
I will post any comments on the oil change that may not be covered from a 1st timer's perspective.
One thing I will add. When I warm the bike before draining, I'm thinking of attaching magnets to the spin on oil filter to catch the metalic floaties as well....just a thought! Has anyone out there done this before?
Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2007, 09:03 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
Thanks for the oil change thread Creeper.
I'm a oil change 1st timer on the KTM. Without a manual, stuff like this is invalauble.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
Mine's a 94 620 SC and I will have to remove the banjo bolts to remove the lower cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
I am assuming I have the o ring type of seal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
I will use the loose bolt method for the burping as this is probably the only way of doing this on a "kick starter only" model.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
As for filling the frame, I guess I can use one of those oil bottles you can buy with a screw on tube (for Auto Trans filling thru dipstick tube on cars)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
I will be using Motul 3100 Gold SAE 15W50 Technosynthese.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
Has anyone out there used this oil? Comments?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
I will post any comments on the oil change that may not be covered from a 1st timer's perspective.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
One thing I will add. When I warm the bike before draining, I'm thinking of attaching magnets to the spin on oil filter to catch the metalic floaties as well....just a thought! Has anyone out there done this before?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LC4nicator
Thanks.
LC4nicator.
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Old 06-30-2007, 04:26 AM   #111
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Thumb Oil Change

Its 7pm Sat. night, oil drained, filters fitted and secure, 1.3Ltrs in the crank case.
Now for the oil in the frame.
Go to clean my squeeze bottle & tube and the fitting cracks!
Oh No!!!
Friend is coming around tommorow morning with trailer ready to go to the track.
Desperate times calls for desparate measures.
Jump in the car and head to the supermarket..(only thing open)..not knowing what I'll find.
Then I see it in all it's glory.
Bent neck, small pointy outlet, $1.64, Perfect!......There's a lot to be said for Toilet Ducks!!!
Empty the contents....into the toilet of course. Quick wash out with Metho, then a little petrol & a quick blast with the compressed air & presto! a perfect frame filler. Necessity really is the mother of invention.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1183202313
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Old 06-30-2007, 06:39 AM   #112
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Thats looks pretty good, I use a Turkey Baster from the 1.00$ store....

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Old 09-25-2007, 09:04 AM   #113
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Creeper and Meatpop have become gods to me since I got my SMC.

After reviewing this thread, I got ready to tackle my first oil change. I looked at the tool to fill the frame tube and realized it would be a little tough to make, so I went to the hardware and auto parts store for my stuff. I was having trouble finding something that would accurately measure the oil and finally found a funnel at Advance that has a cutoff as well as graduated marks to measure. I then got a 1/2" T hose fitting and some clear tubing:


I fit the funnel's end into the short hose above, put a little E tape around the bare end of the T to fit tightly into the frame hole and took the long end and elevated it.


Ready to pour:


The theory is that I measure the correct amount, open the spigot ( by twisting the blue thing at the bottom of the funnel) and oil runs into the frame. Once it's done, I take the long end of the hose, pull it down and feed it down into a catch bucket. When I start the engine to burp it, the extra oil runs out of the T fitting and into the long hose.

I only lost a drop or 2 of oil from the loose fit into the frame, but otherwise it worked as planned. The funnel is nice because it has a lid to keep out crap till the next time.

All in all I think I spent 15 bucks or so.
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:30 AM   #114
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mixing oils

I need to flush my engine and I was going to use some cheap petroleum-based oil: leave the old filters on, fill it up with the Two-Buck-Chuck brand oil, run it up to operating temp (with no load), and then perform the full oil change procedure (incl. filters).

Question: I am sure this will leave some cheap petroleum-based oil in my engine. What effect will this have on the good synthetic oil that I will use? I did a little searching and came up with what I believe are some related discussions:

http://www.cognis.com/products/Busin...ation/FAQs/#Q1
http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0304vwt_synthetic_oils/
http://www.msgroup.org/TIP042.html
(sounds like it used to be a problem)

It sounds like the cheap oil films left in the engine will become a contaminant of the synthetic but in an amount that is not significant. Certainly not significant enough to warrant the amount of research I would need to figure out if something like Ultraclean is warranted or advisable:

http://www.ultracheminc.com/GetProduct.asp?ProdID=25

If anyone has experience with flushing their engine and/or any issues with very minor amounts of mixing I'd appreciate it.
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:45 AM   #115
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Don't waste your time Meat.

If you have good synthetic in there now... just get that up to operating temp and dump it.
It will do a better job of holding contaminates in suspension than any PepBoys, buck a quart stuff.

Not dead... just busy,
C
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:33 PM   #116
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Well, I had to dump the good stuff in preparation to do you-know-what. And I didn't want to run the bike (to get the oil up to temp) because of the damage so I just pulled the drain plugs. When I did there were bits of metal on the magnet and my fingers (some oil always gets on my fingers when I pull the plugs). And I didn't take a pic but the oil in the catch-pan had a good bit of metallic sheen to it, kinda like those driftlines (or wrack-lines) in the ocean as the sheering currents collect floating debris.

So Is a flush useful or will the bits just collect on the magnets and various filters and come out with the change? When I tap the hole, carefully (with grease on the tap), maybe I don't have to flush the engine with el-cheapo oil, but I wasn't happy about what came out with that cold oil dump.

EDIT: PS - I hope that at least some of that busy is wit'da Sherco.
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meat popsicle screwed with this post 10-30-2007 at 04:29 PM
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Old 10-30-2007, 06:01 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
So Is a flush useful?
Flushing is always highly recommended...
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:35 PM   #118
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Flushing is always highly recommended...
Mrs. Popsicle would agree with that.
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Old 10-31-2007, 06:44 AM   #119
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Drainplug washer...is this bad?

I changed the oil in my 640 Adv again last night and failed to realize until I was completely finished that I failed to replace the small flat washer that sits between the larger drain plug and the case.

The one highlighted here:



Meaning, it is not there at all.

Is this going to cause me problems? Do I need to drop the oil again just to replace that little guy?

Anyone else made this mistake?

Thanks much.

-- Jason
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Old 10-31-2007, 06:50 AM   #120
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Jason,

That copper washer (soft metal) is what helps mate the drain plug to the case and seal the drain. Perhaps yours has sealed without it but I would keep a watchful eye on your oil level. Some might say you had better replace it; can you get some friends to help you turn the bike upside down to replace it without loosing your new oil? Remove your mirrors and watch the fairing and
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