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Old 05-25-2011, 07:45 PM   #286
Sporttour
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2004 R1150 RT
Got her in January with only 7500 Miles from the original owner.
Freshly serviced, a truly pampered garage queen from a retired guy... now she is 13000 miles and happy of running fast, far, and often

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Old 05-26-2011, 09:12 AM   #287
peterh
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My 09 LE - on the Wester Ross Coastal Trail (Scotland) last September.
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:26 PM   #288
spanker
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All,

Quote:
Originally Posted by spanker View Post
My 2010 RT has been relatively trouble-free except for three (3) fuel sensor replacements. Coming back from Chicago on the 2000-mile trip, the right turn signal failed. Has anyone had similar issue? I am 99% certain it's the switch because the left signal works as does the 4-way flashers. Obviously the switch is getting power. Note that you cannot split the switch cluster housing for troubleshooting according to the BMW repair CD or you may damage the lacquer-coated mylar printed circuit(s). I squirted the crap out of it with CRC Lectra-Motive cleaner to no avail.
UPDATE: I replaced the switch cluster and fixed the problem. Will have pics soon.
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:32 AM   #289
spanker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanker View Post
UPDATE: I replaced the switch cluster and fixed the problem. Will have pics soon.
Here's a short recap of how to replace the left mulit-switch cluster on the RT:

Here's my trusty steed:



Remember, you cannot disassemble the switch cluster to investigate, troubleshoot, fix anything, it's a $122.00 toss-away part. If you do disassemble it, you will have violated the mandate of the maintenance CD not to split the housing, and BMW will probably tell you to go pound sand if you want to get reimbursed for the part.

First, remove the seat(s) and take off the tank bag rail.....the left side tupperware has to come off....



Next, take off the left-side upper panel......exposing the fuel tank and wiring harness that you'll have to access.



Next the lower panel......DO THIS PANEL ONLY IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE TANK.......SEE BELOW.



OK, now you can start cutting tie wraps from the wiring harness. The goal here is to unplug the pigtail that goes to the cruze control........you'll never guess where it is...........UNDER THE FUEL TANK........THANKS A LOT BMW! We'll get to that in a minute...



Now, carefully unhinge the access cover on the left-side of the cluster. Be careful not to break the tabs off.....



Do the same thing on the opposite side......



Slide off the access cover to the connectors.....



Remove the bar weight...


Now, pull back the grip to expose the Torx screw that secures the grip and housing to the bars......remove the screw.



I highly recommend that you unbolt the left handlebar temporarily so that you will have plenty of slack in the wiring harness when you slide off the grip-switch cluster. You do not want to be stressing the connectors in the switch cluster. Remove the handlebar bolts, slide the grip off and temporarily thread the bolts back in.

Ever-so-gently remove the three connectors from the switch housing. I used a small tweaker-type screwdriver to pry the connectors loose just enough and rocked the harnesses gently to get them off. There are no tabs keeping them locked in. The cruze control wiring harness is part of the switch cluster and is connectorized under the fuel tank.



Set the switch cluster aside, here comes the fun part. The maintenance cd tells you to REMOVE THE FUEL TANK! Like hell! here's the objective......remove the cruze control connector here under the tank....
(shown removed).



I took a long screwdriver and unlatched the connector (push on the tab) and stuck my skinny fingers in there and worked it loose without forcing anything. If you have fat fingers or no patience, remove the tank.

Here's the grip with the heated grip wiring and connector shown. You can see there's a tab that locks the grip to the switch housing. You have to lift that locking tab away from the slotted receptacle to get it off........don't force anything or you'll be buying stuff you don't want to.......I was alone during this job so I don't have any other pics to describe what I'm doing.



That's it for pics. Assembly is the reverse of what's shown. The most difficult part is putting the grip back onto the switch cluster without pinching the heated grip wiring. You'll get the idea when you put it back together. Also the heated grip connector sits in a plastic "saddle" that you'll have to study to figure out how it goes back properly without pinching wires. That's the best I can explain it. BMW had to have spent 100's of hours designing this unnecessarily complex unit. Being exposed to Solidworks 3D-design software, i know what it takes to design a mold and have it come to fruition and actually work. These people are clearly insane to make such a complicated piece (hey, why don't we place all the connectors OUTSIDE of the housing????). HELLO!

Use dialectric compound on the connectors to make them even more waterproof and hope you don't have to do this job twice! Good luck.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:01 PM   #290
bingbong
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That's a really nicely done how to. Thanks for taking the time
But, isn't that a BMW warranty job? I have heard of alot of the new style switch cluster failures.
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:03 PM   #291
spanker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bingbong View Post
That's a really nicely done how to. Thanks for taking the time
But, isn't that a BMW warranty job? I have heard of alot of the new style switch cluster failures.

Yes it is.
I can't get my bike in until the 22nd of June and I'm not willing to wait. To me it's a safety issue, not a convenience issue. I shelled out the money to buy the part, will turn in the used one and hope to get reimbursed. I told the dealer I had the repair cd and convinced them that I was certain the switch was bad....which it was. I am looked upon by them as an experienced rider/wrench because I have dealt with them for 25 years so I trust they will reimburse me.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:52 PM   #292
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Oh I see, that's a nice relationship you have going there. It's a major reason why I ride BMW, the dealers. I haven't found a bad one yet.
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:11 AM   #293
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Talking Metzeler z8

Just ordered a set of these for my RT. will report back when I have them fitted up and scrubbed in

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Old 05-31-2011, 04:14 AM   #294
Gradall
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Is there such a bike as a late 2003 twin spark with a radio?
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:05 AM   #295
bingbong
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Quote:
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Is there such a bike as a late 2003 twin spark with a radio?
Yes, I believe they (bmw) made a twin spark 1150 for a while due to emisions. If it has a radio it will be an RT, unless it an add on
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:27 PM   #296
bootzilla
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Quote:
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Is there such a bike as a late 2003 twin spark with a radio?
Should be. They put radios in 1150's. It may take awhile to find one with the radio option, but you could always just get a twin-spark RT without the option, then buy the radio harness, antenna and speakers from a place like beemerboneyard.
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:05 PM   #297
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by bingbong View Post
Just ordered a set of these for my RT. will report back when I have them fitted up and scrubbed in

The tyre change turned into a saga. I decided to remove the front mudguard for cleaning while the wheels were off. Unfortunately the 2 screws in the fork legs both sheared off due to corrosion So I had to drill them out and re-tap the threads. My garage started to look like I used it



So now as promised a quick report on the Z8's. Short answer------ Fantastic!. Long answer is the bike rolls into turns much better than I remember the Bridgstones ever being, I am convinced the profile of the rear is more rounded which would account for this and the fact that it is very difficult to get near the edge of the tyre. If you do you'll be scraping the pegs. But it's good fun getting there . Road feel and stability is much improved, this brings me to a problem I suffered with the battle axe tyre on the RT. When slowing from around 40mph if you let go of the bars or held them lightly the handle bars would wobble. I had the exact same problem on my FJR by the way. It has completely gone now. So they get top marks for new tyres. We'll see how they are after a few more miles.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:10 AM   #298
DirtMerchant
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Thanks for the feedback on the Z8's, I am needing a new set on my RT and trying to decide between the Z8's, PR3's and Conti Road Attacks.....

Living in SWFLA I am riding on the straight and flat most of the time but normally get to do a few thousand every year in the mountains
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:20 AM   #299
sturgeon
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Just did 4,000 km of a mostly high-speed run on a brand-new set of PR3's last week, in every condition imaginable, including hail! They were flawless. I like 'em. A lot.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:15 PM   #300
jbull
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new to me windscreen

this may be old news to many, but last week I installed a Cee Baileys shield on my 2000 RT and was amazed at the improved wind management vs the orig. equip screen. this one is about 4 inches taller and 2 wider with a laminar lip type curve at the upper edge. I am 6'1" and ride with the seat in the highest position. with the screen at full upright, I can hear the tires and valves at triple digit speeds - and thats all I hear - really. with the screen down all the way there is a pleasant breeze, with much less turbulence than with the stock screen. anyway - very pleased with the CB screen. YMMV
Jeff
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