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Old 11-05-2004, 10:04 PM   #1
clang OP
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Airhead Omega 400 watt upgrade

OK, it was time to quit patching the charging system on my '90 PD and upgrade to the Omega 400 watt system. I bought the bike with a bum charging system and had been patching it with used dioed boards and regulators, replacing the wiring etc. Enough of that crap, time to do it right.

The bike at the start:

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Old 11-05-2004, 10:09 PM   #2
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First things first. Striip the bike down so you can get at all the component parts of the charging system. This entails removing a side panel, the gas tank, the air box, the engine top cover and the engine front cover.

From the previous pic the next two is about 5 minutes (I've done this before )



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Old 11-05-2004, 10:16 PM   #3
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About 10 more minutes to get the engine top cover and front cover off. Before you do ANYTHING though, disconect all the leads to the negative terminal of the battery. If you don't you could fry your charging system before you ever put a key in the ignition.

Engine top cover off - held on by two allen bolts. You need this off to get at the starter solenoid lead and the back side of the diode board mounts.



Two more allen bolts and the front cover is off exposing the alternator and Diode board. You can see the grey back side of the diode board just behind the end of the Roo Bar.

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clang screwed with this post 11-05-2004 at 10:21 PM
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:28 PM   #4
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Alright, so now we have the bike stripped to the point that we can get at all the parts we are going to change - sort of.

This is what came off the bike so far.....



This was the easy part - gas tank is held on by one spring clip and a metal bar at the head tube. Just don't forget to turn the petcocks off before you pull the fuel line !

As mentioned before both the top and front covers are held on my two allen bolts each. The air box is held in with 4 spring clips, seat and side panel just pop right off.

Ok, now here are the new parts we hope to install on the bike - but first we got to get the old ones out - yea right

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Old 11-05-2004, 10:44 PM   #5
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The first thing I did was to remove all the connections to the old diode board and the alternator. There are three connectors going to the alternator on the lower right side of the cover. You can just make them out in this picture (from above). They are the black clips just to the lower right of the exposed copper end of the rotor.



The black clips pull right off, but the three leads coming from the magneto coils are clipped and soldered on, and yes they are a pain to get out, but you have to remove them before you can get the alternator cover off.

I took a soldering iron, heated the solder and pulled them thru.
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clang screwed with this post 11-05-2004 at 10:58 PM
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:57 PM   #6
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After all the connecting wires were removed, I took off the old diode board. The board is mounted to the timing cover with 4 mounts. On this bike and most R100s of this era they are rubber cylinders with threaded heads sticking out each end. Well two of mine were broken, and I had just replaced them a couple of months ago. Lucikly the Omega system comes with what appear to be machined aliminum mounts.

The alternator cover is held in place by three allen head bolts. Luckily, so far everything has been easy to get at and disasemble. Becareful with the alternator bruses as you pull the cover off.I slid a small feeler guage under them and lifted them up off the rotor end. The Omega system comes with new brushes, but I had just replaced mine so I was not removing them for replacement.

Here is a different angle of the alternator. The white connector block with the three spades on it can be seen here just below and to the right of the rotor end. The side opposite the spades has the three wires coming from the coils that are soldered on.

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Old 11-05-2004, 11:07 PM   #7
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Once the wiring is all disconnected and the alternator cover is off, you pull the rotor. To do this you have to first remove the retaining bolt. It is an allen head bolt and you get a allen wrench with the kit, but I used a socket wrench and allen head socket. Put the bike in gear and apply the rear brake and then you can remove the bolt. It was something of a challenge alone. Ah extra pair of hands (or feet as the case may be) would have been helpful. Once the retaining bolt is out insert the supplied puller bolt, do your impression of rubber man again, and put on the rear brake while wrenching the puller bolt in, and voila out pops the rotor.

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Old 11-05-2004, 11:11 PM   #8
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Next gently wiggle the stator out. It is pressed into three machined holders in the timing cover, but it comes out easily enough.

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Old 11-05-2004, 11:28 PM   #9
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Next I took out the old regulator which is located on the top tube and replaced it with the new one supplied as a part of the Omega system. It's a quick and easy swap - two minutes. Lastly, I took out the old rubber diode board mounts to replace them with the new machined ones. This is where the typical busted nuckels, swearing, fishing for small dropped parts in inaccessible recesses of the engine comes in. Come on, it wouldn't be real manly man work if this did not fit in here some where, right?

This is one of the reasons we took off the engine top cover. The nuts securing the back side of the diode board mounts are reached (in so far as you can reach them without totally disassembling the engine) through here.

One of the four nuts is realtively easy to get at. The other three are between hard and impossible.



If you look down at the end of the wrench in the above pic, you can see one of the easier ones. Getting the little F@!*er off without dropping it down in there is, well, a challenge to say the least. Putting the new mount back in its place is no less entertaining, at least for the people watcing.

My advice, make youself a drink BEFORE you get to this point and make sure you have had time to enjoy it a little. It'll calm your nerves and dull the impulse to pick the whole bike up and chuck it over the fence.

There are also two nuts on the left side. The top one is even harder to get at because of the starter solenoid, and the bottom one, well let's just say that one of the new good rubber mounts was in that position and having been there before to put that one in, I just left it alone.
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clang screwed with this post 11-05-2004 at 11:36 PM
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Old 11-05-2004, 11:54 PM   #10
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Now that you have used up this months allotment of foul language, and have a couple of new grease filled cuts on your knuckles from installing the new diode board mounts, lets put all the new parts on the bike

First I replaced the red power lead from the starter solenoid to the diode board with the new one from the kit. Next I mounted the diode board to it's new studs. I did not replace the two grounc wires for the diode board with the ones supplied with the kit. I had just made new ones last month, and mine are better heavier guage wire and copper fittings. Make sure the diode board is grounded well. This is very important to keep the charging system from over working, and delivering optimum power output.

Next I put the alternator back together. First, carefully seat the new stator into the timing cover. It probably will not go all the way into position just yet, this is ok. Next, put the new rotor inplace and reinstall the bolt that holds it in place. Now thread the two sets of wires from the coils through the altenator cover and put it in place. Make sure the bolt holes in the cover line up with the depressions in the stator and the threads in the timing cover. Now as you tighten the bolts holding the alternator cover down, the stator will fully seat.

Now for the three wires that come from the coils and need to be soldered to the bridge on the cover. I took a very small drill bit and drilled a small hole in each soldered tab. I then threaded the end of each wire through the hole and resoldered it.

I then attached all the wires according to the instructions in the kit.

TADA!!!!

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Old 11-05-2004, 11:59 PM   #11
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Now put all the covers and pieces parts back on the bike and you have ....





Now for a test ride and then on to putting the extra power to use. Wired for GPS, MP3 player, Light force light (singular) and heated clothing.

WOOHOOO!!!!!
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Old 11-06-2004, 06:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clang


Ah Yess....the dreaded notenoughroomtofitmydamnhandwhotheheckdesignedthis Pinkfinger syndrome.....BTDT

Great report!
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Old 11-06-2004, 07:36 PM   #13
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it still amazes me that rick's system is still only 400W, I have a one-off setup on my airhead that my-self and my brother made, which has been tested to a peak of 742W (660W if you figure from a nominal 12V instead of the actual voltage), that reading was made at the battery so you would add in the watts used to run the motor which isn't much. And with mine any one part can be replaced with a stock one in a bind, in fact most of the parts which rick replaces with his kit are still stock on mine. Not trying to knock rick here, he has some great stuff, I just don't understand why the Omega is only 400 watts. I just rode home 75 miles on my airhead running two 85W piaa's, and all the stock lights, and many electro add-ons, and heated grips on high.

James.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesJWeg
it still amazes me that rick's system is still only 400W, I have a one-off setup on my airhead that my-self and my brother made, which has been tested to a peak of 742W (660W if you figure from a nominal 12V instead of the actual voltage), that reading was made at the battery so you would add in the watts used to run the motor which isn't much. And with mine any one part can be replaced with a stock one in a bind, in fact most of the parts which rick replaces with his kit are still stock on mine. Not trying to knock rick here, he has some great stuff, I just don't understand why the Omega is only 400 watts. I just rode home 75 miles on my airhead running two 85W piaa's, and all the stock lights, and many electro add-ons, and heated grips on high.

James.


Dude, let's hear soem more about your setup. Does it fit in the origianl engine case?

Modified car alternator?

fergawdssake man, more info?
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:15 PM   #15
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Hey Clang, you ought to cut and paste over in Old School, it would get some play over the - lot of airhead guy this would help out.
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