950 Super Enduro "Quick Question(s)" Thread...

[veetwo _tls]

sorry i did remove the carbs from the rubber boots to do it just turned them upside down in the air box. PUT RAGS IN THE INLET MONIFOLDS


guys this is what i done with mine. has anyone else done this setup & stayed with it or gone to better settings ?

swap rear 160 main jet to front
buy a 165 main jet for the rear



sth australia at sea level

F160
R165

fuel screw 1.5 turns out

needles 3rd position


SAS + EPC removed
telco aftermarket silencers
uni pre filter

[markie_wales]

Right so first let me explain what happens in Chateaux Markie when I have a few hours I can spend to actually sort these carbs out. a) I am "encouraged" by my wife to clear up the leaves on the lawns b) I then have to decide whether to strip the bike down or go or a ride. So yesterday, I went for a ride rather than sort the carbs[1]

It's getting chilly here now and the temp was perhaps 5 C / 40 F, and to be honest after about 20 mins it was running rough. I'd open the throttle and there'd be a delay before the power kicked in. Is this the fabled carb icing I have heard about on other bikes, or just a factor of running lean at cold(er) temps?

If just a temp thing, I promise (sort of) to raise the needles this weekend. If carb icing, is there any thing we can do about it on the SE?

cheers

Markie

[1] after racking up all the leaves and doing two trips to the dump - I'm not stupid!!

[WARRIORPRINCEJJ]

Markie,


Let me preface this by saying that I am a complete mechanical dumb-ass.


However, I am going to hazard a guess on the "carburetor icing" thing...

Two carburetors,
jammed in an airbox,
between two hot cylinders,
of a liquid-cooled motor,
in 40-degree weather...

My guess is gonna' be "no" on the icing thing.

Like I typed, though, that is just a guess. Maybe Ken (H2W) will see your post, and give you an expert opinion.

By the way, good move on the "leaves" thing. If you didn't take care of that, first, your carbs. wouldn't be the only things at risk of freezing.



P.S.- Brett, after I get-through "nursing" my recent concussion, I'll dig-up my records, and see what I have my carbs. set-at. I think I'm at about 650' above sea level. So, we should be close.


.

[Stobie]

Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ

Markie,


Let me preface this by saying that I am a complete mechanical dumb-ass.


However, I am going to hazard a guess on the "carburetor icing" thing...

Two carburetors,
jammed in an airbox,
between two hot cylinders,
of a liquid-cooled motor,
in 40-degree weather...

My guess is gonna' be "no" on the icing thing.

Like I typed, though, that is just a guess. Maybe Ken (H2W) will see your post, and give you an expert opinion.

By the way, good move on the "leaves" thing. If you didn't take care of that, first, your carbs. wouldn't be the only things at risk of freezing.



P.S.- Brett, after I get-through "nursing" my recent concussion, I'll dig-up my records, and see what I have my carbs. set-at. I think I'm at about 650' above sea level. So, we should be close.


.

Nope, it's a known problem. That's why your carbs have electric heaters built into them.

[markie_wales]

Originally Posted by Stobie

Nope, it's a known problem. That's why your carbs have electric heaters built into them.

humm I wonder if there is something wrong with my heaters then? Is there anyway I can test the heaters when I have the tank etc off to sort the needles? Better still without any sort of electrical test equipment which I don't have (but willing to buy if required)

cheers

Markie

[mookymoo]

Originally Posted by markie_wales

humm I wonder if there is something wrong with my heaters then? Is there anyway I can test the heaters when I have the tank etc off to sort the needles? Better still without any sort of electrical test equipment which I don't have (but willing to buy if required)

cheers

Markie

Mark, your best bet is to wire in a lead to bypass the temp sensor.
You can get all fancy and put a switch in - but in reality, youre going to leave that bypassed all winter (just keep the carb heaters always on - theres no downside). In reality, you can get by with some insulated spade/bullet clips & no need to faff around fitting a switch youre almost never going to use.

Once you have that bypass in place, you can easily test whether youre getting power to the heaters.

Just buy a simple slimline multimeter from maplin. Theyre pretty cheap - and you can pop it in your trail toolkit in case you ever have to diagnose an electrical problem in the field.

Now, in terms of putting the bypass lead - use posi-taps rather than those god-awful slicing taps that halfords/maplin sell
http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html


Now, with respect to your suspected icing - what speed were you travelling at? Ive experienced the icing a few times - and almost all was at motorway speed. What brought it on was a bit of deceleration...

[markie_wales]

Originally Posted by mookymoo

Mark, your best bet is to wire in a lead to bypass the temp sensor.
You can get all fancy and put a switch in - but in reality, youre going to leave that bypassed all winter (just keep the carb heaters always on - theres no downside). In reality, you can get by with some insulated spade/bullet clips & no need to faff around fitting a switch youre almost never going to use.

Once you have that bypass in place, you can easily test whether youre getting power to the heaters.

Just buy a simple slimline multimeter from maplin. Theyre pretty cheap - and you can pop it in your trail toolkit in case you ever have to diagnose an electrical problem in the field.

Agree - if there is a problem with hte temp sensors, a striaght by-pass is the way forward. Can you (pretend you are speaking to a 10 year old ) point me in the right direction of the sensors?

Originally Posted by mookymoo

Now, in terms of putting the bypass lead - use posi-taps rather than those god-awful slicing taps that halfords/maplin sell
http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html


Now, with respect to your suspected icing - what speed were you travelling at? Ive experienced the icing a few times - and almost all was at motorway speed. What brought it on was a bit of deceleration...

I like those - cool. So (again pretend I'm 10) how would I use the meter, and where would I tap in the probes (assuming there are probes) as I haven't had the tank off yet?

In terms of when it happened, I was riding A roads, and if I shut off and then re-opened then I'd get the delay/surge. Also at slow speeds round the towns / roundabouts.

cheers

Markie

[pfdskipper]

While the carb heater topic is current, I thought I would ask the Bretheren about a head scratcher for me yesterday.

I pulled the carbs and did some adjusting due to an ever increasing decel popping. While I was putting things back together I noticed that the front carb has a wire screwed into the area immediately beside of the carb heater. The rear carb has no screw, only an open threaded hole.

I have been unable to get a clear photo or schematic that was legible enough to decipher what went into the empty threaded hole. I came close to the area by looking at many Adv threads and the HOW, just not a definitive look though. My best guess was that other bikes had the vacant screw as well.

Are there any inmates who know the proper hardware arrangement in the area I am speaking of?? Sorry, no pics.

My decel popping has diminished after my changes. I have a 160 158 main, I found my Idle Mixture screw at 2.25 front, .5 rear , Motohouse had put my Akros on at the 600 mile service, also did the canisterectomy at the same time. Found a heap of sloppy work , vent lines were short and routed into one exit point, the rear outside nipple had nothing on it (found that right after the work was done.) I corrected the vent line as per the HOW.

The needle is clip unchanged, left it as it had been,,at 3.

I changed the IMS to 1.75 front 1.5 rear, the bike does not pop as bad as before, and the stalling issue seems nearly gone. No intake boot or vacum line leaks were found.

That empty screw hole is just not sitting right with me however..

[WARRIORPRINCEJJ]

Originally Posted by pfdskipper

...I pulled the carbs and did some adjusting due to an ever increasing decel popping. While I was putting things back together I noticed that the front carb has a wire screwed into the area immediately beside of the carb heater. The rear carb has no screw, only an open threaded hole.

I have been unable to get a clear photo or schematic that was legible enough to decipher what went into the empty threaded hole. I came close to the area by looking at many Adv threads and the HOW, just not a definitive look though. My best guess was that other bikes had the vacant screw as well.

Are there any inmates who know the proper hardware arrangement in the area I am speaking of??...

...That empty screw hole is just not sitting right with me however..

Bob,


If it is on the right side of the carb. assembly, when the carbs. are attached to the boots, and...

you are speaking of the rather large, black rubber attachment (that attaches the wiring to the front carb) with one bolt...

then I would say you are speaking of the Throttle Positioning Sensor.



And...yes...if I remember correctly, the rear carb. just has an empty hole (where the bolt would attach, if the rear carb. had a sensor...which is doesn't).


DISCLAIMER: I am 90% sure of the info. that I am giving. However, I am hoping that someone else will chime-in.


.

[mookymoo]

Originally Posted by pfdskipper

While the carb heater topic is current, I thought I would ask the Bretheren about a head scratcher for me yesterday.

I pulled the carbs and did some adjusting due to an ever increasing decel popping. While I was putting things back together I noticed that the front carb has a wire screwed into the area immediately beside of the carb heater. The rear carb has no screw, only an open threaded hole.

If its what I think youre referring to, its the earth for the carb.
Carb heater wires are positive 12V - rely on that common earth for the return path.

[mookymoo]

Originally Posted by markie_wales

Agree - if there is a problem with hte temp sensors, a striaght by-pass is the way forward. Can you (pretend you are speaking to a 10 year old ) point me in the right direction of the sensors?

I think the sensor is in amongst the wiring behind the headlight. To be honest, Ive not tracked it down on the SE - but its got to be there.
Black thing - flatish - round at one end - square at the other - with 2 yellow wires coming out of it.

Originally Posted by markie_wales

I like those - cool. So (again pretend I'm 10) how would I use the meter, and where would I tap in the probes (assuming there are probes) as I haven't had the tank off yet?

In terms of when it happened, I was riding A roads, and if I shut off and then re-opened then I'd get the delay/surge. Also at slow speeds round the towns / roundabouts.

cheers

Markie

Well, first thing you want to do is measure both sides of the switch (easier to do if you have your posi-tapped bypass lead). If neither side has 12V, then your problem lies upstream (you must have ign on, and check your fuses).
If you have 12V, then connect your bypass jumper lead. Then at the carb, pull back the boot on the carb heater wire & check you have 12V at each carb heater. In all cases use a solid metal contact on the bike for the earth.
If you have 12V, then turn lights, etc off to conserve power - and leave the ign on - you should feel the carb heaters warming. Id not, maybe theyre duff. Or just check your carbs are at 0V (ie you dont have a floating earth).

The heaters might be working fine - but just didnt come on early enough (another good reason for the bypass switch).

BTW, the above description sounds pretty much like carb icing...

[pfdskipper]

Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ

Bob,


If it is on the right side of the carb. assembly, when the carbs. are attached to the boots, and...

you are speaking of the rather large, black rubber attachment (that attaches the wiring to the front carb) with one bolt...

then I would say you are speaking of the Throttle Positioning Sensor.



And...yes...if I remember correctly, the rear carb. just has an empty hole (where the bolt would attach, if the rear carb. had a sensor...which is doesn't).


DISCLAIMER: I am 90% sure of the info. that I am giving. However, I am hoping that someone else will chime-in.


.

You nailed it JJ, thank you for the info.. Talked to a savy old wrench after I posted, he said the same thing as you did.

I Must of had a brain fart when posting, I was thinking throttle sensor but spelled it as carb heater, really ...

[markie_wales]

Originally Posted by mookymoo

I think the sensor is in amongst the wiring behind the headlight. To be honest, Ive not tracked it down on the SE - but its got to be there.
Black thing - flatish - round at one end - square at the other - with 2 yellow wires coming out of it.

Well, first thing you want to do is measure both sides of the switch (easier to do if you have your posi-tapped bypass lead). If neither side has 12V, then your problem lies upstream (you must have ign on, and check your fuses).
If you have 12V, then connect your bypass jumper lead. Then at the carb, pull back the boot on the carb heater wire & check you have 12V at each carb heater. In all cases use a solid metal contact on the bike for the earth.
If you have 12V, then turn lights, etc off to conserve power - and leave the ign on - you should feel the carb heaters warming. Id not, maybe theyre duff. Or just check your carbs are at 0V (ie you dont have a floating earth).

The heaters might be working fine - but just didnt come on early enough (another good reason for the bypass switch).

BTW, the above description sounds pretty much like carb icing...

Top man - thanks fella - pint owed.

Not 100% sure how to use these meters, but can't see it ending with "Markie dies in tragic garage fire" either :)

cheers

Markie

[pepetrueba]

I am interested in the euro switch option that you can install on the 950 adventures to turn off lights.
I checked websites for part numbers and they dont show 950se only 950 adventure

ktm parts number for stock 950se- 61011070100
ktm parts for 950 adventure-60011070000

euro switch 60014001000

950 se start stop is also different.
What are the alternatives to turn off light so bike can crank and start? Battery low and not enough huevos to start?

Any wisdom on which switch wouldfit the 950se would be
appreciated

[mookymoo]

Originally Posted by pepetrueba

I am interested in the euro switch option that you can install on the 950 adventures to turn off lights.
I checked websites for part numbers and they dont show 950se only 950 adventure

ktm parts number for stock 950se- 61011070100
ktm parts for 950 adventure-60011070000

euro switch 60014001000

950 se start stop is also different.
What are the alternatives to turn off light so bike can crank and start? Battery low and not enough huevos to start?

Any wisdom on which switch wouldfit the 950se would be
appreciated

The 950A switch will fit, but you will have to make wiring changes - AFAIK, the plugs are quite different. I dont have the details, sorry.

What do you have on your bike now? Is in the EXC-style switch pods? Or the 990Adv type (just missing lights-off)