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Old 07-06-2010, 02:57 PM   #31
veetwo _tls
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Location: FNQLD innisfail/SOUTH OZ murray bridge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veetwo _tls
what size is the fuel line ?
1/4" - 6mm (inside diametre) fuel line hose ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
veetwo, I wish I could help you. If you had caught me about three weeks ago, I woulda' taken a dial caliper to it/them. You were talking about the lines that run from the junction (inside the airbox) to each carb...right?
it's ok i got it. found a small bit to pull off to measure up - 1/4" - 6mm (inside diametre)

just bought a 6m roll
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:53 AM   #32
Conspire
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rear shock preload 950SE

how do i adjust it? special tools required? does the rear tire have to be jacked off the ground? why is there no mention of this in the user manual? Thanks
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:59 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conspire
how do i adjust it? special tools required? does the rear tire have to be jacked off the ground? why is there no mention of this in the user manual? Thanks
Just take the weight off the suspension - centre stand if you have it , or if not, a bike stand.

Loosen the lock ring - then use your hands to spin the whole spring & lock ring together. Should be easy. DONT use a hammer & punch.

If you have to, takes moments to remove the whole shock - then work on it on the bench.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:23 PM   #34
pfb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mookymoo
Just take the weight off the suspension - centre stand if you have it , or if not, a bike stand.

Loosen the lock ring - then use your hands to spin the whole spring & lock ring together. Should be easy. DONT use a hammer & punch.

If you have to, takes moments to remove the whole shock - then work on it on the bench.
While it can be done with hand (somtimes difficult) or with a punch and hammer (beats up your adjusting ring), there is a relatively cheap tool designed for the job.


Lots of different versions, but they all look a bit like this:


About $9 here

Or you can even buy a pretty KTM version...

Part U6951172, about $25.
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:17 PM   #35
Conspire
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now another problem

thanks guys, that's just what i was looking for. I just dropped the bike again a few minutes ago on the left side, and now it doesn't want to shift into 2nd. once on the ride home i got it into second, but after going back to 1st it wouldn't go back into 2nd. just neutral and 1st. It looks like the lever has been bent, and I'm tempted to pry on it or try to bend it back with a hammer. It contacts this thing in the picture, and I can't remember if it is supposed to move freely above this part with ktm logo, or is it supposed to stop on this? I'm hoping for a quick cheap fix, because the ktm dealer is a long way to go in first gear. I only have the standard tool kit, and very little mechanical experience.
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:18 PM   #36
Conspire
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shi*t
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:26 PM   #37
WARRIORPRINCEJJ OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conspire
...It looks like the lever has been bent, and I'm tempted to pry on it or try to bend it back with a hammer. It contacts this thing in the picture, and I can't remember if it is supposed to move freely above this part with ktm logo, or is it supposed to stop on this? I'm hoping for a quick cheap fix, because the ktm dealer is a long way to go in first gear. I only have the standard tool kit, and very little mechanical experience.
That is your clutch slave, and the shift lever is not supposed to contact it.

I would not bend the lever while it is connected to the countershaft...just my humble opinion. I would remove it...gently give it a slight bend...re-attach it to the C/S...examine it, and repeat if necessary.

While you are completing the above, you can also consider rotating the lever one tooth counter-clockwise on the shaft...


.
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:38 PM   #38
Conspire
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thanks warrior, I thought it would be risky to bend it, which is why I checked here first. can anyone give me a clue as to what's involved with removing the lever, do i have to take the sprocket off to get at it? is it a simple job with the ktm toolkit, or should i limp the bike down to the local bike mechanic. the ktm dealer is 45 km of highway away, but there's a local non ktm shop about 10-15 km from me. I don't have a lift, a garage, or any extra tools.
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:52 PM   #39
veetwo _tls
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conspire
thanks warrior, I thought it would be risky to bend it, which is why I checked here first. can anyone give me a clue as to what's involved with removing the lever, do i have to take the sprocket off to get at it? is it a simple job with the ktm toolkit, or should i limp the bike down to the local bike mechanic. the ktm dealer is 45 km of highway away, but there's a local non ktm shop about 10-15 km from me. I don't have a lift, a garage, or any extra tools.

to remove the lever you will need
8mm socket
extension bar
socket ratchet

bench vice
hammer

torque wrench
loctite 242 (blue) DO NOT USE THE RED



you will need at least a bench vice (with soft jaws or a rag rapped around the lever so the vice will not leave jaw marks in the alloy lever) & hammer (rubber mallet/soft hammer would be best) to tap it back.

have a friend close buy with these ? next best M/C shop.

use loctite & torque wrench to 10Nm - shift lever bolt.
(NO TORQUE WRENCH - do not over tighten when re-installing)


now buy a hammerhead shift lever from CJ
http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/HDmoto.html


.
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veetwo _tls screwed with this post 07-11-2010 at 03:33 PM
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:53 PM   #40
WARRIORPRINCEJJ OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conspire
thanks warrior, I thought it would be risky to bend it, which is why I checked here first. can anyone give me a clue as to what's involved with removing the lever, do i have to take the sprocket off to get at it? is it a simple job with the ktm toolkit, or should i limp the bike down to the local bike mechanic. the ktm dealer is 45 km of highway away, but there's a local non ktm shop about 10-15 km from me. I don't have a lift, a garage, or any extra tools.
The lever is held in place with a bolt that has an 8MM head...if I remember correctly. Your tool kit should have a socket (and extension, if needed) to fit this...I believe the kit has a 6MM, 8MM, and 10MM socket.

Once again, if I remember correctly, upon re-installation, KTM recommends a certain kinda' "thread compound" for the bolt. It is a "Loc-Tite" part number of some sort. I couldn't find it, in my area. So, I just used medium strength "Permatex" threadlocker (P/N 24200).

I always believe that a person should follow the manufacturer's recommendations. However, since I could not find the Loc-Tite thread compound, I went with the Permatex...and haven't had a problem. I am not saying that you should do this...only that I did it without any drama.


EDIT: Good ol' veetwo beat me to it...faster fingers...


.
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"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 07-10-2010, 10:32 PM   #41
veetwo _tls
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Location: FNQLD innisfail/SOUTH OZ murray bridge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
The lever is held in place with a bolt that has an 8MM head...if I remember correctly. Your tool kit should have a socket (and extension, if needed) to fit this...I believe the kit has a 6MM, 8MM, and 10MM socket.

Once again, if I remember correctly, upon re-installation, KTM recommends a certain kinda' "thread compound" for the bolt. It is a "Loc-Tite" part number of some sort. I couldn't find it, in my area. So, I just used medium strength "Permatex" threadlocker (P/N 24200).

I always believe that a person should follow the manufacturer's recommendations. However, since I could not find the Loc-Tite thread compound, I went with the Permatex...and haven't had a problem. I am not saying that you should do this...only that I did it without any drama.


EDIT: Good ol' veetwo beat me to it...faster fingers...


.

sorry


http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm
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Old 07-11-2010, 06:39 AM   #42
GSBS
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Adjustment for rear brake light switch?

I noticed the other day on my 07 SE that when using the rear brake the light doesn't come on until I depress the brake pedal well past where it engages the pads to disc.

The light comes on for the front brake when barely touching the brake lever, well before it engages.

I've looked at the shop manual and the manual that came with the bike and cannot find any reference to adjusting the switch's action. The shop manual does show the location of the switch itself, which is wire-tied to the right side of the frame near the shock.

Anyone else noticed the rear brake light not coming on until the pedal is depressed hard? Or if there's an adjustment I'm missing? If not, would the fix be a new brake light switch?

Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:51 AM   #43
big adv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veetwo _tls
to remove the lever you will need
8mm socket
extension bar
socket ratchet

bench vice
hammer

torque wrench
loctite 242 (blue) DO NOT USE THE RED



you will need at least a bench vice (with soft jaws or a rag rapped around the lever so the vice will not leave jaw marks in the alloy lever) & hammer (rubber mallet/soft hammer would be best) to tap it back.

have a friend close buy with these ? next best M/C shop.

use loctite & torque wrench to 25Nm - shift lever bolt ( ** M8 range from 20Nm-30Nm** )

(NO TORQUE WRENCH - do not over tighten when re-installing)


now buy a hammerhead shift lever from CJ
http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/HDmoto.html


.
If your going to dispense advice on repairs, make sure its correct........

HH bolt on the shift lever (Adventure) M6 Loctite 243 + 10 Nm

There is a big difference between 10 and 25 Nm on a 6mm bolt, as in it will break at 25Nm....
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:06 AM   #44
WARRIORPRINCEJJ OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS
...Anyone else noticed the rear brake light not coming on until the pedal is depressed hard? Or if there's an adjustment I'm missing? If not, would the fix be a new brake light switch?

Thanks!
GSBS,


I can't help much on the information on the switch. However, I did notice that my light is very much like yours. The light came-on very quickly using the front brake lever. However, the foot pedal had to move several degrees before the light came-on.

I had never noticed it before you mentioned it.


.
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I spent all my money on motorcycles, 4X4's, whiskey, and women...The rest I just wasted. (edited to fit/original phrase by "WIBO")

"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:14 AM   #45
triplenickel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS
I noticed the other day on my 07 SE that when using the rear brake the light doesn't come on until I depress the brake pedal well past where it engages the pads to disc.

The light comes on for the front brake when barely touching the brake lever, well before it engages.

I've looked at the shop manual and the manual that came with the bike and cannot find any reference to adjusting the switch's action. The shop manual does show the location of the switch itself, which is wire-tied to the right side of the frame near the shock.

Anyone else noticed the rear brake light not coming on until the pedal is depressed hard? Or if there's an adjustment I'm missing? If not, would the fix be a new brake light switch?

Thanks!
The rear switch works off pressure, notice how it's part of your banjo bolt? You have to build pressure in the mc to trip it. The front is mechanical based on lever travel.
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