ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Orange Crush
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #631
buildit
Guns, bikes and Bows
 
buildit's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Simpsons home town Ohio
Oddometer: 14,083
I wouldn't worry too much, it is not uncommon for the clutch to not slip as easily when the engine is off. Did the clutch still feel like there is a lot of friction after the engine is running? Once the friction is broken and plates get fresh oil on them it should slip far more easily. Now if the engine is running and you feel the bike lurching forward while holding the clutch in, you might have an issue.
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
2013 Super-10
2007 KTM950SEr
2006 KLR650
2001 YZ426 (street Legal)
buildit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 07:01 PM   #632
Kirtsky
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Warner Robins, Ga.
Oddometer: 237
Nope, the bike doesn't pull and there is no feel of idle being reduced or any drag feel once running. I feel the clutch grab clean when the lever is about half way out.

Thanks for the quick reply!

-Kirt
__________________
!!!950 SE!!!
Kirtsky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 07:59 PM   #633
pizzaboy
retiring tomorrow
 
pizzaboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Aledo, Texas
Oddometer: 1,012
Quote:
Originally Posted by veetwo _tls View Post
OE carbs , tank taps & mikuni pump etc i used 8mm ID hose ( if you use the quick disconnects to replace the taps on the tank as i used it's 10MM ID hose http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=530176 )

left tap hose crosses over to right between cylinders > into a T piece right side> hose from right side tank into that T> now hose from T to a inline filter > hose > inline tap > hose around the back of the air box to left side into mikuni pump > (from here on is already there setup with the OEM carb hoses) OEM hose out mikuni pump > OEM T > OEM hoses into carbs.


hope that made it easy to follow mate
Thanks Veetwo
__________________
Indecision always goes to the left...

'09 BMW R1200GSA
'09 KTM 950SER Erz
'14 KTM 1190 Adventure R
pizzaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 09:11 PM   #634
veetwo _tls
RENOVATIO:
 
veetwo _tls's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: FNQLD innisfail/SOUTH OZ murray bridge
Oddometer: 1,824
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirtsky View Post
First mechanical question about my SE. I had my bike in the driveway and went to push it into the garage. It was off, in gear, and i pulled the clutch lever in to push it. I can feel drag in the bike. It will still roll, but there is definite drag, rolling forward and reverse, as if the clutch is dragging.

So, I started it up, in gear, lever pulled in, there is no drag when running, rolling it forward or reverse.

Doing some search, I decided to check the clutch oil jet. Couldn't get it to budge, and finally managed to scrape some brass off, so I stepped away for now to get some input before I continue.

First question, Clutch jet seem like a good place to start?

Second question, any tips for getting the jet loose?

Thanks-Kirt

mine was (thought was) tight as well. it's feels that way because the jet is not the best to get at with a screwdriver.

i used the ktm tool kit screwdriver as it was the shortest i had to get in there with out it being too long or too short.
i then used a small set of locking pliers on the screwdriver shaft to get good turning leverage & at the same time applied pressure down on the handle (the best i could getting my hand in there on the screwdriver handle) so it not slipped & strip the jet.

after i realized it was not as tight as i though just a PITA to get good even down pressure to it to loosen.





to lift the jet out i used a plastic drinking straw.
i bit the end to flatten it so it fit the jet slot - the straw would expand a little so it held & "GENTLY" lifted it out (slite bump it falls off ARHHH) 4th go i got it




.
__________________
Sent from my HTC ONE X - Using Rooted S-OFF , Open Home 6 & Buuf icon pack
http://forum.xda-developers.com/ BUILD YOUR OWN PHONE
CHEERS: brett
MY07 950 SER

veetwo _tls screwed with this post 06-25-2011 at 09:19 PM
veetwo _tls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 09:57 PM   #635
Kirtsky
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Warner Robins, Ga.
Oddometer: 237
Thanks veetwo, I'll give it a try. Still concerend with the drag, and why it seems to appear only when the motor is off. I did find some oil under the rubber boot at the clutch lever. May be low on fluid there.

Just a bit of humor, I buttoned it up in the garge, went to start it, to test the running vs not running drag. Seems I forgot to put the plug back in over the jet...
__________________
!!!950 SE!!!
Kirtsky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 10:09 PM   #636
WARRIORPRINCEJJ OP
Not in the clique...
 
WARRIORPRINCEJJ's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: South Central Texas
Oddometer: 9,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirtsky View Post
...Still concerend with the drag, and why it seems to appear only when the motor is off...

Kirtsky,


For what it's worth, mine is the same way...except much worse.

With the bike turned-off, in 1st gear, with the clutch in, I can barely get mine to move forward at all (if at all)...


.
__________________
I spent all my money on motorcycles, 4X4's, whiskey, and women...The rest I just wasted. (edited to fit/original phrase by "WIBO")

"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
WARRIORPRINCEJJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 10:16 PM   #637
Kirtsky
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Warner Robins, Ga.
Oddometer: 237
I'm feeling better about it, more questioning why I hadn't noticed it before at this point I think. Besides, it's only when it's not running, so...I'll shut up and ride!

After I go clean up the oil dry and add a quart back...
__________________
!!!950 SE!!!
Kirtsky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2011, 03:27 PM   #638
SFKLR
Noob. Again.
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Benicia, CA
Oddometer: 1,011
Any plug-and-play horn options for the 950SE?

SFKLR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 03:36 PM   #639
The Bigfella
Big Adventurer
 
The Bigfella's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Dooral Dooral, Eastern Oz
Oddometer: 2,356
G'day guys. I posted up a separate thread about heat treament on the 950SE subframe. 102 views, no replies.

What's driving it is that I'm setting off a month from today on a 20,000km trip which is mostly rough roads (Cape York, East Timor, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos). My subframe isn't cracked... but if it cracks somewhere on this trip, like on the Ho Chi Minh Trail.... the only way of repairing it will be to tie it up with fencing wire.

So - I'm looking to reinforce it before I leave. Trouble is, my son and a couple of mates (mech engineer, fabricator and boat builder) all tell me that welding it will weaken it. The more welding, the softer the 7020 aluminium will get. We don't know what the factory temper is, so we are flying blind if we try and re-temper it.

Current thinking at this end is a bolt-in reinforcement bracket that goes from the rear grabrail/luggage rack mounting point, to the fron mounting points and then to the seat lock brace and exhaust mounting points.

Any thoughts guys?
__________________
A man should only do the work that is required of him. To do more is a form of greed.

Ride through Oz and Asia
The Bigfella is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 03:59 PM   #640
veetwo _tls
RENOVATIO:
 
veetwo _tls's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: FNQLD innisfail/SOUTH OZ murray bridge
Oddometer: 1,824
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bigfella View Post
G'day guys. I posted up a separate thread about heat treament on the 950SE subframe. 102 views, no replies.

What's driving it is that I'm setting off a month from today on a 20,000km trip which is mostly rough roads (Cape York, East Timor, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos). My subframe isn't cracked... but if it cracks somewhere on this trip, like on the Ho Chi Minh Trail.... the only way of repairing it will be to tie it up with fencing wire.

So - I'm looking to reinforce it before I leave. Trouble is, my son and a couple of mates (mech engineer, fabricator and boat builder) all tell me that welding it will weaken it. The more welding, the softer the 7020 aluminium will get. We don't know what the factory temper is, so we are flying blind if we try and re-temper it.

Current thinking at this end is a bolt-in reinforcement bracket that goes from the rear grabrail/luggage rack mounting point, to the fron mounting points and then to the seat lock brace and exhaust mounting points.

Any thoughts guys?


i cant help but interested in the out come as i like to strengthen mine before it does crack.

others have welded/braced there's that has cracked & not seen any more posts of them cracking again.

.
__________________
Sent from my HTC ONE X - Using Rooted S-OFF , Open Home 6 & Buuf icon pack
http://forum.xda-developers.com/ BUILD YOUR OWN PHONE
CHEERS: brett
MY07 950 SER
veetwo _tls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 04:19 PM   #641
buildit
Guns, bikes and Bows
 
buildit's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Simpsons home town Ohio
Oddometer: 14,083
Just an idea but what about shimming the tubes or making a bolt on brace? Al is a tough metal to weld when it's new and even harder once dirty or stressed. Personally I'd make a brace that could be bolted over a crack or break. That and a tube of JBweld.

PS sounds like a great trip! Hope it is a big success.
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/advfilmer
2013 Super-10
2007 KTM950SEr
2006 KLR650
2001 YZ426 (street Legal)
buildit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 04:31 PM   #642
The Bigfella
Big Adventurer
 
The Bigfella's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Dooral Dooral, Eastern Oz
Oddometer: 2,356
Quote:
Originally Posted by buildit View Post
Just an idea but what about shimming the tubes or making a bolt on brace? Al is a tough metal to weld when it's new and even harder once dirty or stressed. Personally I'd make a brace that could be bolted over a crack or break. That and a tube of JBweld.

PS sounds like a great trip! Hope it is a big success.
Yeah... its planned as a bolt-on brace. It may give me a bit of trouble near the fuses, but that's not too hard to deal with.
__________________
A man should only do the work that is required of him. To do more is a form of greed.

Ride through Oz and Asia
The Bigfella is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 11:31 PM   #643
The Bigfella
Big Adventurer
 
The Bigfella's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Dooral Dooral, Eastern Oz
Oddometer: 2,356
I was just working on my kevlar sumpguard and I had a "Eureka" moment.

I reckon I can solve the subframe cracking problem.

I'm going to mould a carbon copy of the plastic shield that goes over the mufflers (I reckon I'll ditch the grooves) and reinforce the tail section of it significantly and then tab it into the muffle mounts. They carry less than they used to with the Wings titanium cans on them. I'll also ditch the grab rail and the whole rear light / indicator / numberplate extension and go for a shorty look there. I just picked up some nice Oxford LED indicators too. I'll keep the Touratec plate... its good for straps.

OK... enough crap... back to the workshop
__________________
A man should only do the work that is required of him. To do more is a form of greed.

Ride through Oz and Asia
The Bigfella is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2011, 07:07 AM   #644
HickOnACrick
Groovinator
 
HickOnACrick's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Utarded in Lubbuttock
Oddometer: 2,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bigfella View Post
I was just working on my kevlar sumpguard and I had a "Eureka" moment.

I reckon I can solve the subframe cracking problem.

I'm going to mould a carbon copy of the plastic shield that goes over the mufflers (I reckon I'll ditch the grooves) and reinforce the tail section of it significantly and then tab it into the muffle mounts. They carry less than they used to with the Wings titanium cans on them. I'll also ditch the grab rail and the whole rear light / indicator / numberplate extension and go for a shorty look there. I just picked up some nice Oxford LED indicators too. I'll keep the Touratec plate... its good for straps.

OK... enough crap... back to the workshop
Post pics please.
__________________
KTM 500 XCW, BMW K1600GTL
950 SER 300 XC
Composites 101
Utarded in Baja
Circumcising Utah

HickOnACrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2011, 10:01 AM   #645
pfdskipper
Westside Trash
 
pfdskipper's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Litchfield Park, Az
Oddometer: 1,011
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bigfella View Post
G'day guys. I posted up a separate thread about heat treament on the 950SE subframe. 102 views, no replies.

What's driving it is that I'm setting off a month from today on a 20,000km trip which is mostly rough roads (Cape York, East Timor, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos). My subframe isn't cracked... but if it cracks somewhere on this trip, like on the Ho Chi Minh Trail.... the only way of repairing it will be to tie it up with fencing wire.

So - I'm looking to reinforce it before I leave. Trouble is, my son and a couple of mates (mech engineer, fabricator and boat builder) all tell me that welding it will weaken it. The more welding, the softer the 7020 aluminium will get. We don't know what the factory temper is, so we are flying blind if we try and re-temper it.

Current thinking at this end is a bolt-in reinforcement bracket that goes from the rear grabrail/luggage rack mounting point, to the fron mounting points and then to the seat lock brace and exhaust mounting points.

Any thoughts guys?
The key point to remember is that weight should be kept as far forward as possible and keep the weight as low as possible. When you look at the majority of subframe failures on the SE's, the fractures occur near the rear tab. When visualized it is obvious the design begs for failure. The cargo area is essentially a diving board type of stress inducer. The rear most section of the subframe is held together with a very minimal bead weld of the seperate sections.
Until one addresses reinforcing the tab in a manner that distributes stressors away from the tab, in conjuntion with keeping the weight as far forward as possible, one can expect that sooner or later that tab will give out.
See below:
http://
http://

The fix I chose was to essentially box the rear of the subframe with an overlay of 7020 aluminum. No more worries. Good luck with your proposed strengthening ideas. Please post photos of what you come up with.
My fix below:
http://
http://
pfdskipper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014