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Old 06-27-2010, 03:17 AM   #1
Sauerkrautman OP
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Sauerkrautland
Oddometer: 64
Cool2 from south germany to the polar circle

From south germany to the polar circle:

Blue sky and rain clouds.
Snow at the streets and the warm ocean.
Tunnels and turns, the ocean and high mountains.
In norway, you get all of that in a single trip.

Yes, I wanted to ride to norway. Although the weather report said something like rain and snow and cold and wind and...

I wanted to do this since a lot of years, but everytime the same thing: No money, no time, no motorbike, no one wanting to ride with me.

But this year everything started to get into the right direction: enough money, enough time, I bought an R80GS and some people wanted to go with me.

And then suddenly I was the only one going. Business as usual, or "Same shit, different day!"
After reading a lot of ride reports here, I think, a lot of you know what I mean.
But now nothing could stop me. No alone-riding, no expectations of bad weather, no boring motorway-rides through germany.

I bought the GS a few months ago, because I didn't want to do this trip with my R80/5 (wanted to ride some gravel roads and yes, I did).
The motorcycle stood for 6 years, some new tyres, oil, a new braking disc in the front and it was ready for the trip.

In the end, the odometer showed 8700 magic kilometers more and I was away from home for two and a half weeks.

My english may be ugly, but I'll try my best and the photos don't need any words... ;-)

the day before the start, the bike is loaded and waiting in the garage.

Day 1:

The first thing I had to do was the motorway trip to the north of denmark. I planned to do a stop at a friends house at hamburg for one night.
So this meant for the first day 750km, the most of it at the motorway. After some kilometers I noticed a wallowing (sp?) driving behaviour of the GS, so I stopped immediately. nothing was loose, nothing was broken. I drove to the nearest gas-station, hoping that this would not be the end of the trip. I put more pressure into the tyres and this made the driving behaviour much better. I think, it was a mixture between the missing air, the road and the unknown loading of the motorcycle.
After that, I used the motorway, put the ear-phones under the helmet, some good old rock-music and the day was less boring.
As a reached the house of my friend, I could take a look at his garage, we talked some hours (motocycles, old cars and so on, you know. We in germany say to this: "talking fuel", I'm not sure, how it's called in english). He let me ride his FJR 1300, but after some kilometers I was sure the GS is the better motorcycle for me. Slower, safer for my driving license and better for gravel roads. ;-)
The night was quiet, the bed was good enough for me, I slept well.

Day 2:

My friend trying to escape the camera. Too slow. ;-)

Another day of boring motorway-driving. Another day of rock-music in the ears and endless straight-forward driving. And it wasn't even easy, because of a heavy side-wind.
But after 550km, I reached Hirtshals.

The sun was shining, the boarding for the ferry worked and I was waiting to get on board. I talked with two norwegians, who were driving back home after a trip through north-germany and denmark. They gave me some tips and we drove on board. We were the only motorcyclists at this ferry, it was to early for the most tourists...

On the right side one of the norwegians, on the left one german guy who talked too much and in the background the ferry.

2 BMW GS and one Ducati.

Although the weather was fine, the sea was not so friendly, so I got nearly sea-sick. After 2,5 hours I left the ferry at norway and the real journey could begin.

I drove some kilometers at the Rv. 9 and took a camping-site at Hornnes.

Day 3:

I started the day with recognizing that the shops in norway are closed (public holiday). I had nothing to eat, so I drove to the nearest hotel to get a breakfast.

It wasn't good, but enough to fill my stomach.
After some driving at the Rv. 9, I left it at Nomeland, where i headed to Lyssefjorden.
It was a calm day:

After leaving the Rv. 9 the landscape got me, it was just stunning!

Panorama (3,9MB)

As you can see, the weather was getting worse. It started with a little bit of raining. After driving the winding road down to the Lyssefjorden I could catch the ferry exactly at the right moment. At the ferry I could take a look up to the Preikestolen, a 600m high rock-platform. The legend says, if the rock would be falling into the water, the city Stavanger at the west coast would be flooded.
At this day the rock decided to stay at its place and so I could leave the ferry unmolested at Forsand.

Half way down to the fjord.

If you look closely, you can see two people at the rock.

In Norway, they have the real big snowblowers!

Panorama at the Rv. 520(1,6MB)

I'm sure, this sign means something like "Wave your arms." Well, I did and I was happy ;-)

Yes, it was cold.

Small toy-GS between the rocks.

Some turns and some rain.

A little break during the driving. I avoided a tunnel and took the cycle path. A lot of tunnels are not very old and the old streets are used as cycle paths now.

I'm not exacly sure where the camping-site was, but it was ok. Because of the rain I put a cover over the motorcycle and the tent, so I could use the space between as a cooking-place. It worked pretty well, but at night it was so noisy, I got up and put this thing back into the bag for the rest of the trip.

to be continued...
ride reports: Norway with a R80GS, sidecar-trip through south-France
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:31 AM   #2
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I like this! I love those northern landscape!
bring it on.
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:40 AM   #3
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Fantastic - did you camp whilst you were there?
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Old 06-27-2010, 04:33 AM   #4
Red Zebra
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Awesome pics.

[....we talked some hours (motocycles, old cars and so on, you know. We in germany say to this: "talking fuel", I'm not sure, how it's called in english). ]

We know what you mean!
"Ain't nobody chasin' me boy!"
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:18 PM   #5
Sauerkrautman OP
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Originally Posted by Monsieur
Fantastic - did you camp whilst you were there?
Yes, of course.

Day 4:

The people at the camping-site said the weather should be getting better, so I hoped...
Indeed, I could see the blue sky more and more often. But in between, the rain came back. At least my clothes stayed dry inside (I bought a new Goretex-jacket a few weeks before the trip. Best idea ever!).

waiting for the ferry...

panorama again:

I continued the long way to the north at the E134 up to Häland and then at the Rv. 48 to Skänevik. There I took the ferry to Matre and I drove to Dimmelsvik. A few kilometers in front of Sunndal (at the Rv. 550) is a long tunnel through the mountains. But at my map was a little path printed over the mountains. I searched for it and asked some people, but there seemed to be no path. To bad, so I had to use the tunnel.

In this direction should be the path, but there was only a glacier.

Eating a burger while looking at this waterfall...

After the tunnel I drove to Brimnes and took the ferry to Bruravik. Instead of driving through the tunnel, I used the nice Rv. 572.
Before the trip, I planned the whole route to the polar circle, but at one point, the planned route directed to Bergen and the weather in this direction seemed not so good, I decided to take a shortage and drove directly to Voss.

I wanted to drive to the left, but the blue sky in front of me made the decision easy

waterfall, waterfalls, you can't get through norway without seeing (and hearing them). In fact, I had only one camp-site in norway where no waterfall could be heared or seen.

cruise ships can drive a long way into the land.

panorama, again! (2,8MB).

After reaching Voss, I directed to Aurlandsvangen. As I wrote, I like to skip the tunnels and drive over the mountains. And as the tunnel at Aurlandsvangen is the worlds longest tunnel, I wanted to skip it badly.
The sign to the passage over the mountains was crossed out(sp?), and this was not a good sign. But it's not a reason to give up to early.
So I drove the street to the passage. After a few hundred meters there where some road works going on and hoped, this was the reason for crossing out the sign. The workers let me pass by (they had no problem with me trying to pass, in germany they mostly don't let you pass) and I could go on. After some kilometers I reached stegastein, a viewpoint where you can walk at a wooden gangplank over the edge of the mountain. As I was the only mad man there, I rolled the bike at this thing and made some nice photos:

half a meter backwards and this would be the end...


But I also had to pass the mountains, I had not much time for goofing around, it was 7pm already and some heavy clouds concentrated at the sky.
After another few kilomters a gate blocked the way. Damn!
But the gate could be opened. I drove through and closed it behind me, so no other fool would be driving through.
And then I left civisiation, there only was the narrow road climbing up and a lot lot of snow at the side of the road, the cold wind, the heavy clouds and a stupid guy going up with his red bike.
Having an accident could be a bad idea, no one would help me up there at this time. So I drove like a pussycat upwards, ignoring this and ignoring the little snowflakes, which started to fall...

lost snowmobile

After 20 km from the gate there was no way further anymore. A thick layer of ice and snow blocked the road. No chance without any spikes at the tyres. I walked a few meters until I could see behind the turn, but all I could see was ice and more snow.
So I had to go back. beaten from the mountain.

It was below zero degrees and i had a layer of ice at the bike.

Back at the gate: it was blocked!

Nope, only a little joke... ;-)

Back at the valley I searched a camping site (pretty expensive: 140 NOK) and I could have a nice meal and go to sleep after talking to a german couple, who were coming from the city, where I studied a few years ago (Aachen, a few kilometers from Colonge)...

to be continued...
ride reports: Norway with a R80GS, sidecar-trip through south-France
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:26 PM   #6
two wheelus fanaticus
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Great pics. Great thread. What an adventure!!
69 Yamaha RD350
04 Ducati MTS1000
. . .and way too many bicycles
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Old 06-27-2010, 02:36 PM   #7
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Good stuff, norway does look very nice, I have a friend who lives in the south of the country and loves it, been too aachen as well went I went to the nordscheilfe
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Old 06-27-2010, 02:47 PM   #8
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very nice
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Old 06-27-2010, 04:24 PM   #9
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Looks like a great ride! Nice pictures!
Tiger 1050, Bonneville, Brutale

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Old 06-28-2010, 12:10 AM   #10
fat daddy
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Great trip!

Keep it up!

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Old 06-28-2010, 04:53 AM   #11
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Great trip, great pics, look forward to the next installment!
Rogerthat 1

France 2010 - 1760 miles in 4 days
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:38 AM   #12
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Jeddah, Saudi Arabia/ Bangalore, INDIA
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Wow, this is truly an adventure ride & thanks for sharing. I am enjoying it every bit and that old Beemer sure looks like one rock solid machine.

Pls keep it coming.
Growing old is compulsory - growing up is optional

Exploring the world on 2-wheels...little at a time

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:51 AM   #13
Oman Dirty Biker
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Sultanate of Oman
Oddometer: 214

Excellent so far with some stunning pics. The Louis stuff bag you have on that belter of a BM, has been one of the best things I've spent money on....brilliant bit of kit.

Your English is excellent Keep writing, riding and taking pics In for more.

Offroad Riding - Lap of Oman for Mary 2008:

The 8th Wonder of the World Discovered in Oman:
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:54 AM   #14
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Thumb Well Done Amigo!

Fabulous RR narrative and photo's. I'm still snickering as I imagine the meaning of that sign - - and your interpretation. So for the uninformed like me, exactly why do you prefer to avoid the tunnels (lighting, obstacles, road surface, ??) Look forward to your next post and the panorama's are AWSOME!!
06-wr450f -bigga 'n betta
06-950 Adventure - PURE EXHILARATION!
“Life is a verb, not a noun.” ~Charlotte Perkins Gilman
"Excellent, there was a big one coming up ‘Cheap petrol in hell’, that really got me pondering, until I got a little closer and realised the ‘S’ had dropped off the sign advertising the Shell servo in Norseman. Shame really, it was a thought-provoking slogan." - Katie em
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:01 AM   #15
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Great Ride

Hi Sauerkrautman,
great ride, I like Scandinavia too. Thank you for sharing your ride
All the best from Berlin
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