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Old 10-07-2010, 07:30 PM   #31
RedRocket
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Nice job!

If you don't like your welds you can grind em up some.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:18 PM   #32
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That looks too small, that chamber would be good for a model aircraft engine. Your power is going to be at 13,000 revs, pity it will only rev to about 3,000 with that pipe . With the stinger on that I wouldn't be surprised if it punchs holes in your garage wall at idle, which will be at around 10,000
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:04 PM   #33
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Yup, this was def. a learning experience. It idles fine but sure runs like crap until you get to the higher rpms. It was pulling 50 mph in 3rd gear when before you'd be lucky to get that in 4th, but it didnt have the low end to get 4th gear up into the power band. I was using a free program and since this was truly a practice run, I'm not to tore up about how bad it sucked. Fun learning experience though. It also sounded LOADS better than the open megaphone it had on it!
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:34 AM   #34
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I broke down and bought an expansion chamber design program, seems pretty nice. Its called 2 stroke wizard, came with a second program for designing headers for 4 strokes as well. It was a royal PAIN to get installed on my computer, but seems to be working well now.

The COOL part is they have a free cone layout tool- type in the measurements and it PRINTS a FLAT layout cone you can trace onto your metal and cut out!!!! Talk about a LOT of work saved!

Find it here: http://www.buildandclick.com/html/utils.html
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:16 PM   #35
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Took POJ for another spin this afternoon, and the pipe actually works pretty good. The first trip I guess I didnt have the collar tight and the pipe fell off the head and I lost the gasket... I put it back on today and it definately has WAY more top end. It easily holds 50 mph in 3rd, where before you were lucky if you could touch 45 in 4th! To bad it doesnt have enough low end to get it up to speed in 4th, but hopefully pipe #2 will fix that. The second design is roughly the same diameter on the engine and stinger, but the two cones and belly are almost twice as big.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:13 AM   #36
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....cool thread! My first dirt bike was a Trailmaster.
My dad and I made a 'tuned pipe' for it as well....oh, and yes the headpipe constantly falls off. Safety wire for sure!
I think we had about a 3"+ diameter x 6" cone on each end of about an 18" length chamber, maybe a 6" stinger.
The power wasn't alot in gain, but the loss of weight from the muffler alone made it all worth it...and the sound was a big plus!
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:11 AM   #37
BoneGoose
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That thing with the two springs on the end of the rotor is a governor. It retards your timing as it spins. If you want more go you should disable it.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:45 AM   #38
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pretty sure its not a governor, its your timing advance. Disabling it will most likely result in either very crappy running at idle or very crappy running at high rpm. Either way, not gonna make it go faster. I've been wrong before though!
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:11 PM   #39
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It is the advance. Removing it will hamper performance, but hey its your bike.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:21 PM   #40
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Time for an update. I've been working on POJ a lot, but I started a seperate thread for what I was doing... Started on another expansion chamber. See the entire thread here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=655547

Some pics of the build:











Thats about a tenth of the build pics... Still workin on it too.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:46 PM   #41
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At the same time, I've been trying to figure out a way to build some rearsets for it without doing anything that couldnt later be undone if I wanted to put the bike all the way back to stock. My flavors change frequently...

There isnt a whole lot of room to work with, especially with how I was planning on routing the new pipe.





The one cool thing about this is that I was planning on just rotating the shifter around 180 degrees so it pointed to the back- this would then give me a 4 UP shift pattern instead of 4 down. I must be gettin older, cause every time I switch between my KTM and this bike I'd just about kill myself going upshifting from second, expecting third, but getting FIRST. I think I'm actually going to end up building a custom shifter and linkage with how things have turned out, so I can still change the pattern anyways.

First step was to get the stock pegs out of there. Easily done- center stand came out too, planning on building a side stand while I'm at it. Now to replicate this goofy shape:

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Old 04-01-2011, 01:09 AM   #42
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This should be interesting! keep posting please.
Haven't lifted a spanner to mine yet, been building a new house, past 14 months, finally in it, great feeling!
Cheers
Baza
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:19 AM   #43
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Heres what I ended up with. There are two mounting holes- one for the bolt that goes through the engine, and one big one that goes through the hole where the center stand was. The middle hole had to be drilled because one side has a pin sticking out of the frame and the other has a weld that sticks up a bit. The square tubing will be welded to these plates flat, but rotated so the flats will point up a little bit.

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Old 04-01-2011, 10:25 AM   #44
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Some pics of how it looks on the bike:



You can see the pin that sticks out. I think it had something to do with the center stand spring, dont remember exactly, but I didnt want to cut anything off. The square tubing goes over it like so:



Then I'm going to weld some round tubing the the square that goes back to where the rearsets will mount.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:22 AM   #45
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I'd been looking for an excuse to use "my" milling machine... finally had one!



Milled a flat spot on the tubes for the plate that the pegs will mount to.




Didnt spend a lot of time on the plates, basically just started drawing.



Cut 'em out with the plasma cutter, ground them up, drilled a bunch of holes, and vioala.



Yes, I'm using a set of bicycle doubling pegs as my foot pegs.

The pegs will sit on the plate over the center hole. The bigger fin area with all the holes is just a guard to keep my feet from sliding into the chain / wheel. the plate will be welded to the tubes on the flat spots, and the tubes will be welded to the square tubing pieces. Confused yet?!
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