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Old 12-04-2013, 02:57 PM   #1
oakey134 OP
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Tiger 995i - No power - why?

Charged my battery, reinstalled it. Turned on the key hit the starter and the lights went out. Why? Any advice ice is appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:32 PM   #2
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Sounds like the battery is bad
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:44 PM   #3
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I put a multi meter on the battery and it is showing 12volts. After I charged the battery and reinstalled it I turned the key and the lights came on but as soon as I pushed the starter the there was a small click the lights went out. Every time we put the multimeter on the battery and turn the key the power drops. It almost seems like a fuse but we checked the fuses in the fuse box and they all show good.

I have read about the rectifiers/regulators going on these bikes. Could this be the issue?
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:31 PM   #4
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When my stator/rectifier-regulator went South (05 Tiger 955i), I was able to fully charge the battery, unplug the headlights, and ride 60 miles home without a hitch.

Here's a handy checklist that might help. Good luck.

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:40 PM   #5
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Think I may need a new battery, found the exact same problem here. I had the same problem 12V indicated but as soon as I turn the key the voltage dropped to nothing. Though it may have been a short but my friend (electrician) ruled that out with some tests.

http://www.triumphrat.net/tigers-885...-key-turn.html

Here is a snapshot of what was said.

DEcosse, PM received, just the thing thanks.
Found multimeter and metered battery at about 12.4V (analogue meter !). Interestingly as soon as I turn the ignition key, the voltage drops to near zero, then climbs gradually ending up about 4-5V (doesn't look right to me....). If I pull the main fuse, the voltage stays 12.4V, never budges, on a key turn. If I leave the main fuse in, but pull fuses 2,5,6 and 7, I get the voltage drop still ( also with the two relays that are beside the fuse box out (not sure if one of these is main relay or not...) In short (scuse the pun...), I think I've got a short in the wiring somewhere around the ignition switch / kill switch ???

No your battery is simply hosed
It is collapsing with load current not because there is short in system
You can validate by just connecting a bulb (ideally headlight bulb) across the battery and you will likely see same thing
Do you have access to another battery to try? (Mate?) or take battery to local auto parts store or similar to load test?


DEcosse is indeed a legend, and my battery is in fact toast...
Got a new one from the local bike shop and much more things happen, voltage stays up, headlamp comes on, starter turns , but doesn't fire up .
Also no idiot lights, cept the headlight main beam. I think I need to retrace my tracks, maybe re-connect the alarm, might have blown a fuse on the way ?
When I do get it going must check it's charging properly cos that battery wasn't that old.....

Thanks all for the help so far....will keep ye posted

Once he reconnected the alarm, all was well.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:05 PM   #6
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Tell me if this is wrong -

A good battery will show 12.6~12.8V with no load - multimeter simply connected between the terminals.

With the engine running, it should show between 13 & 14 V. Anything higher & it's overcharging.

It should stay there when you add load - indicators, lights, high beam etc.

That is the start of my simple garage checks.



Of course, there are lots more the smoke could be doing that wont be apparent in just checking the battery at idle. That's why there are auto electricians.
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus View Post
Sounds like the battery is bad
Gus, I think you are right!
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #8
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Battery is toast. Had the exact same situation and found the 12 volts was just a " surface charge " with no real CCA(?) to back it up.

Replaced it and all was well.
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Slaghammer screwed with this post 12-05-2013 at 07:36 AM
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:44 PM   #9
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Really appreciate all the input, heading out tomorrow to pick up a new battery. I will let you all know the outcome.
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Old 12-06-2013, 04:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by oakey134 View Post
Gus, I think you are right!
Now check across the battery with the bike running. If you do not see at least 13-14 volts you may have a bad stator or regulator. You may need to rev the bike up above idle speed.
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Old 12-07-2013, 04:36 PM   #11
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You could have a bad ground connection. Check both ends, battery and frame/motor.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:02 PM   #12
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Installed new battery today, turned the key hit, the button and she fired right up. The engine light is staying on but from what I have read it should reset after 3 or 4 cold restarts. As always, appreciate all the advice. Forums lime this sure make owning a motorcyle alot easier, not to mention cheaper ( less time at a dealer).
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:50 PM   #13
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Batteries should always be the first suspect. Charge them up, then get a good load test. Always suspect the battery..and if you are buying a used motor always immediately replace the battery.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acejones View Post
Batteries should always be the first suspect. Charge them up, then get a good load test. Always suspect the battery..and if you are buying a used motor always immediately replace the battery.
Lesson learned! The reason I was a little confused was that it indicated a 12v charge with the multimeter and the previous owner said it was a new battery.
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Old 12-12-2013, 07:49 PM   #15
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Well, I guess the problem isn't fixed.Tonight I had the bike going I looked at the RPM gauge and the needle was sitting at zero. ( no rpms indicated). I shut the bike off and the bike would not start it seems the battery went dead again. What would cause the battery to go dead after about 7 starts on a new battery and cause the rpm gauge to show no rpms while it is running. Advice. (Regulator/rectifier or stator)
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