R100/7 build

[nella]

I bought this BMW in the spring os 2010. My last BMW was an 85 K100 that I sold back in '94.

This is my first airhead. The tank was rusted out, the caliper was seized and the disc was cracked, and the exhaust nut threads on the left cylinder were destroyed.

I needed to go through it from front to back. Here it is, version 1:




Luckily, I found a local machine shop that could repair the exhaust nut threads. I didn't take an after pick, but it looks like new.



I went ahead and pulled both cylinders and heads and had the guides and valves inspected and had some work done on the valve seats at the machine shop. One of the cylinders had a good deal of rust and teh machine shop was not able to hone it out so i replaced the left cylinder.



At first I had planned to use the stock wheels and went ahead and had new Metzeler Lasertecs mounted. Then I came across a set of Lesters. I have always been a fan of the Lester mags and this set that the previous owner had the rear wheel widened when he race an R100 in a Battle of the Twins series back in the 80's. It will take a 140 size tire.

Also, I got a nice complete original exhaust as part of the original deal. It cleaned up with some 0000 steel wool.

I read the discussions online about the K&N individual filters and decided to give them a shot.

I rebuilt the carbs and caliper, inspected the steering bearings and lubed them, inspected the splines and lubed them, and went through the bike carefully. I'm a big guy so I installed some progressive springs, rebuilt the front forks, and went with some heavier oil in the front forks.

I found a /7 police tank that happened to be local to me. Heres the bike after partial restoration, I'll call it V2.




Here you can see the tostertan upper triple clamp. It allows me raise the forks. Also chose some Woodcraft clip-ons. It is great looking part.




I bought a Panasonic sealed battery and made a battery box out of aluminum and found a nice original BMW 3/4 solo seat.

I spent some time with my dremel on the stock front and rear fenders and modified some rearsets that I found used.

The bike is far from complete, but this is how it sits now:









You can go to the end of the thread but here's what you'll see.

This is what I call version 3 and it was this way through the en of 2010. I've now completed the mechanical restoration and it drives and rides like new. Cosmetically you can see the different tank, seat, carbs, forks, shocks and other things:



This is version 3.1. With the help of Houseoffubar I've ditched the Ohlins and completed the monoshock conversion using a rear shock off a 2009 R1.

[bpeckm]

White + Lesters =

[ricnepalm]

nice work.

[otilram]

looking good.

[Harry Backer]

Sweet!

[Wirespokes]

Why not mount the battery on top of the trans?

Also, the rear fender looks good, but not excited about the front. Were it me, I'd mount one of those British aluminum or stainless fenders.

[nella]

Originally Posted by Wirespokes

Why not mount the battery on top of the trans?

Also, the rear fender looks good, but not excited about the front. Were it me, I'd mount one of those British aluminum or stainless fenders.

Great observations! I could try top of the transmission. Honestly I was in a rush to get a battery in it because I wanted to road test to check the transmission, clutch and final drive. I might end up with am ebat under the cowling.

I'm not sold on the front fender either. I'll give that some more thought.

Thanks,

Scott

[c1skout]

Looks nice! Did you have to clearance the swingarm to fit a 140 rear tire? Mine won"t even take a 120. I think your rocker cover is on upside down, the fins should be more horizontal.

[bmwrench]

Not upside down, swapped left and right.

[Plaka]

Looks like you've already ditched the choke cables. Good man. A simple pull rod with a small knob works very well. Been doing it many, many years.

You can a quite wide stainless steel clamp for the carbs. Plumbing supply place. It's a regular clamp, not part of an assembly, and it's both smooth and polished. Looks good and more support. I'd make sure the carb to head rubbers are also perfect---it's all that's holding the carbs.

Tranny gets hot, not so good for batteery. Rubbeer mounting in the usual location works best. One one of the Brit bike (Brit riders, every kind of bike) there are a bunch of people that have done very clean block off plates for the rear of the starter cover/air cleaner.

[nella]

Originally Posted by c1skout

Looks nice! Did you have to clearance the swingarm to fit a 140 rear tire? Mine won"t even take a 120. I think your rocker cover is on upside down, the fins should be more horizontal.

You know I didn't even notice the rocker cover. Thanks for pointing that out.

That's a 140 mounted. Once installed, clearance is fine. The trick is that the differential has to be unbolted from the swingarm to install the wheel. Could be a pain on the road but in my garage I did it in a few minutes.

Thanks,
Scott

[nella]

Originally Posted by bmwrench

Not upside down, swapped left and right.

Thanks, now that's next on my to-do list.

Scott

[nella]

Originally Posted by Plaka

Looks like you've already ditched the choke cables. Good man. A simple pull rod with a small knob works very well. Been doing it many, many years.

You can a quite wide stainless steel clamp for the carbs. Plumbing supply place. It's a regular clamp, not part of an assembly, and it's both smooth and polished. Looks good and more support. I'd make sure the carb to head rubbers are also perfect---it's all that's holding the carbs.

Tranny gets hot, not so good for batteery. Rubbeer mounting in the usual location works best. One one of the Brit bike (Brit riders, every kind of bike) there are a bunch of people that have done very clean block off plates for the rear of the starter cover/air cleaner.

I have a lathe and have been experimenting with pull knob designs. Saw a tip a while back from MIOB who used bicycle spoke cut to length as the rod material.

Excellent suggestion on the carbs/filter.

I've got some aluminum for the block off plate and that should clean up the back of the engine nicely.

I'm strongly leaning towards an ebat. I doubt it will happen this summer but over the winter i'm inclined towards a mono-shock setup and won't have space for a battery either in the stock location or above the transmission.

Thanks,

Scott.

[Plaka]

Originally Posted by nella

I have a lathe and have been experimenting with pull knob designs. Saw a tip a while back from MIOB who used bicycle spoke cut to length as the rod material.

Thanks,

Scott.

I saw that. My first ones were steel rod. Worked fine but rusted too quick. Turns out so much rigidity isn't needed. My current ones have knurled aluminum thumb screws for the knobs. I cut off the thread and drilled for the rod. The rod is brass epoxied into the knobs and staked. The barrel is a piece of brass tube. Strung the threaded nipple up on the rod before soldering the barrel (just filled it with solder and filed the ends flat. Trick is to make it sloppy. The barrel is a very loose fit in the choke arm and the rod is loose in the threaded nipple. This lets the rigid rod rock enough to follow the arc of the choke arm without bending. You can also shorten the threaded nipple to the minimum. To assemble you put the barrel in the choke arm, put the choke full on, slide the nipple all the ways up against the knob, pass the rod through the slot in the carb top, then screw the nipple down to keep it there.

I've also seen a simple rod with a loop end.

Easy to reach from the saddle. A small clearance between the knob and the knipple ensures Off is Off.

[Rob Farmer]

Get a small front mudguard from FlatRacer.com --> http://flatracer.com/#/bmw-cosmetic-parts/4538130542

They look much better than cut down original guards

Thunderpants has one on his cafe machine